(Topic ID: 311130)

Roller Brush or Rattle Cans?

By Mars304

2 years ago


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    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mars304:

    Hi all!
    Seems there is huge support for spray painting a cabinet but I wanted to know if anybody had any experience with using a roller for painting a pin cabinet. I worry that using a rattle can will cause streaks or drip marks and, to be honest, I'm not the most experienced at painting. I have seen a few videos of people using a roller and I didn't see much streaking or lines. It is possible that they did a lot of sanding to make the cabinet look smooth. The other issue is I have more color options with roller. I am restoring the pin for my own use and don't plan on selling anytime soon.
    Any advice for a newbie would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.

    You live in California like me. I restore a lot of games. To do it correctly you need to use oil based paints or automotive paints. Now in California you can only get a few colors but if you go to any of our neighboring states you can get stuff customized. Oil is way better than water based paints. It is sandable and decals actually stick to it. It is a pain to clean up but well worth it in the end. It also works good with the foam rollers for a smooth finish. I use a spray gun myself but have used the roller method in the past with good success. Rattle cans are fine but messy. The paint formulas in the rattle cans have been tweaked for California and aren't as good as they used to be. Some of the new blends react to the media used to make stencils so you also have to be mindful of that. If you provide the name of the pin being painted I can likely give you some more specific pointers.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mars304:

    Thanks for the info...yes, California is pretty crazy for thier rules. I didn't realized that limited colors though. I am restoring a Bally 1979 Star Trek. The only difference is I am debating a blue base coat rather than the yellow that was original. But essentially using the same colors. I saw a post here where somebody did that and I kinda liked it. They used a grey/silver for the enterprise and stars.

    Ok - Star Trek is pretty basic in colors. You should be able to find what you need in state. As others have stated "prep is king". You need to go down to bare wood on a old game like that. Sand to bare wood, fill all the holes and prime with Kilz oil based primer. Sand the primer with 220 sandpaper when dry. It should be silky smooth when you're done. I would recommend Rustoleum oil based paints in the quart cans for your game. Those are available in California in the colors you need. Do 2 coats with your base coat and let that dry good. Apply your stencils and roll a single coat of paint of your next color. After you're happy with it pull off the stencils while the paint is wet. Let it dry and repeat for the last color. The end result is very factory looking. No need to clear coat. The factory didn't do it and it has to be done very well to not happer the end result.

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    #22 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mars304:

    Your cabinet came out fantastic! I assumed it was sprayed?
    That brings up a question, does the primer have to be oil based? I hadn't even thought about that. Does it make a difference to use a normal primer and the put on oil based paint over it? The interior of the cabinet might be difficult to do with roller. I wonder if I can use a spray for the interior and roller for the exterior. Thoughts?

    The blues were spayed but the black was rolled. I would recommend the oil based primer for best results. Spraying is pretty easy to do and you can buy a cheap setup for around $100. The problem is California has outlawed mineral spirits and you really need them to spray oil based paints. Oil based paints are too thick to spray without it and the California alternative drys to quick. I still buy mineral spirts whenever I find myself at a Home Depot in any other state.

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