(Topic ID: 98145)

Rocky & Bullwinkle Cabinet Advice

By wiredworm

9 years ago



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  • 4 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by wiredworm
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

I've finally decided to take the plunge and try to fix up my battered old R&B cabinet. The back end of this had a new section of MDF fitted a while back but it wasn't as tidy as I would like and there was still some fairly substantial damage that needed patching in.

I've now fully stripped down the cabinet with a view to replacing the back with a new piece of 18mm ply. At the same time I want to make it as true to the original as possible so i'll be looking to cut holes for a new cord cup and reinstating the original rotolock mechanism.

The section that sits directly below the head is also very badly split and ideally needs replacing but I have no clue about how to go about removing it without causing damage to other parts of the cab. I guess what i'm really asking here is a breakdown on how the cabinet is assembled and any recommendations about how to strip parts whilst causing as little damage as possible. Ultimately the cabinet will be filled, resprayed and then re-decaled so hopefully any minor damage caused can be made good.

I'm looking for advice on the make-up of the cabinet and the best way of going about approaching the task at hand. If anyone has suggestions based on the pictures below then i'd really appreciate it.

The damaged corner with the original MDF sheet in placeThe damaged corner with the original MDF sheet in place
MDF removed.MDF removed.
The other corner at the back.  Looks like we're missing a 'wedge' from that corner which provides bonding for the corner and supports the leg bracket.The other corner at the back. Looks like we're missing a 'wedge' from that corner which provides bonding for the corner and supports the leg bracket.
The badly split wood below where the head sits.  Note that the plan is to ditch the wing nuts and go back to a roto lock fitting (although the wing nuts could be kept and also used)The badly split wood below where the head sits. Note that the plan is to ditch the wing nuts and go back to a roto lock fitting (although the wing nuts could be kept and also used)

I'm also interested in finding out how the original leg mounts are fitted. Mine has three original mounts and then one of the more substantial Bally/William mounts. The originals aren't that sturdy so i'm tempted to replace them, but in order to do this I need to figure how they are secured. They appear to be fitted from behind the corner strip which supports the corner.

And I believe (although perhaps someone can confirm) that the corner strip is held in place by these screws at the corner?

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2014-07-23 20.17.43-28.jpg2014-07-23 20.17.43-28.jpg

Grateful for any help and/or assistance. Woodwork isn't something I usually do a huge amount of so i'm keen to investigate so I can do as good a job as possible.

#2 9 years ago

A few more pictures from tonight that i've taken. Evidently the left side has a good 18mm of wood running behind the block shown in the photos below, whilst the right side has nothing. I presume this somehow needs building up (a piece of strip wood maybe?) before I even think about refitting a back board onto it?

The right side of the cabinet.  No wood behind the blockThe right side of the cabinet. No wood behind the block
The left side of the cabinet.  Wood behind the cabinetThe left side of the cabinet. Wood behind the cabinetSee, a good 18mmSee, a good 18mm

#3 9 years ago

My lower cab is intact enough that I can salvage it by filling and sanding, but I need to rebuild the backbox. Water/humidity damage has caused the particle board on the back to bubble and swell, and the laminated wood around the sides has lost cohesion from the glue failing with age. Basically, I have to just build an entire new backbox, paint it the proper shade of blue, and then get one of those vinyl sticker prints to put the artwork back on.

The problem is the cost associated with restoring the cabinet. The money spent on it is enough to buy outright another pinball like Tales from the Crypt for example, so I'm torn between wanting to finish the job or just going out and buying another machine to enjoy.

#4 9 years ago

Sorry to hear that Firebrand - it's a real shame too as you've done an incredible job on restoring everything else.

I'm still deciding if i'm brave enough to undertake this task myself or not - a friend of mine's brother is a joiner by trade so i'm tempted to ask him if he'd be able to do the work for me. Otherwise I might just have to take the plunge and give it a try. There isn't much that can't be patched up if I do make a mistake.

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