Does anybody in this group have scans of RG playfield art? Looking to do a playfield restoration and there are a couple areas that are good candidates for waterslide decals.
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Does anybody in this group have scans of RG playfield art? Looking to do a playfield restoration and there are a couple areas that are good candidates for waterslide decals.
Quoted from uncle_jose:Hello to all!
My RG have developed an odd problem, maybe you guys can help me: playing on a simple game and when ball 1 gets lock, 2 balls are placed on the shooter lane, this condition will only happen when ball one is locked. I cannot replicate it under any other condition. Any idea?
Many many thanks!
~ja
In test mode, go to SWITCH EDGES and test the switches manually. Use an actual pinball for things other than targets.
I wonder if your shooter lane switch or the ball 1 switch have stopped working? So that the game doesn't know where all the balls are? My first thought is shooter lane; CPU knows there is a ball in the lock but isn't registering a ball in the shooter lane and pops out another one?
Something along those lines is my first guess.
Quoted from Chet:Some before/ after pics of the Pitt vuk hole and shooter lane restorations on my sample RG.
I see you have the Cliffy for the ramp entry; did you know he makes a Pit protector as well? Super easy to install.
What is causing the ghosting here? I thought that problem was a non-issue by sys11C. I did a major restoration on a Rollergames last year, used LED flashers on all the playfield locations with no problem.
Great tutorial! I have a 5-bank drop target standing by (my game started out as a pile of parts, so I figured just restoring it to good working order was enough of an initial challenge); when I delve back in to install it I will also take on the backbox flashers! @matt_adams, I'd be psyched to have a hole-drilling map!
2 Questions: has anybody else had trouble with their Atomic Whip kickback? Mine frequently will fire the ball pretty wildly, sometimes riding *over* the wireform instead of within it, sometimes weakly not able to push the ball up the wireform to the second solenoid, often giving it 3 unsuccessful tries before giving up. And sometimes it works just right. It behaves worse the faster the ball is going (spin?), better if it's going slowly. Because it sometimes works perfectly I haven't tinkered with positioning; when I looked at it with the apron off, it appeared that the plunger is hitting the ball square in the center. Really frustrating.
I thought I read somewhere that there is a setting for Sudden Death which makes it non-random. Is that true? If so, which adjustment is it? I can't figure it out and don't want to be on a wild goose chase.
Quoted from epeabs:My wall is beat up pretty badly but is at least holding together.
You can do a decent fix on the disintegrating ramp entry using Bondo fiberglass resin + fiberglass mesh. Since it's the underside of the ramp and pretty much hidden from view, you don't have to worry about the aesthetics of it. Rebuilds the entry nicely, and you can sand out the repair with 100 grit paper to smooth any high spots.
Still on the hunt for a shooter lane/ball lock plastic. I've heard murmurings from a few Pinsiders about making new ones but so far it's pretty much just rumor. Mine is missing outright. So sad...
Quoted from FelixTCat:My center wire form is black, there doesn't appear to be any other colors under it.
That's unusual, never seen that before. On my RG, I had someone sandblast and powdercoat the wireforms, and it wasn't very expensive. Cheaper to go all one color, which I did more partly to keep costs down on a big restoration, partly because I always hated the 3 different colors. Went with all red and don't regret it at all.
If you need those fin plastics, I bought a new set for mine but have all the original ones. Happy to send them along if you need them.
Is anybody out there making a replacement for the big plastic that covers the lock solenoid? Mine's missing but I saw an RG at Pintastic that had one which looked brand new. Would love to get that taken care of, game is otherwise brand new looking after full restoration.
Your flipper isn’t too strong unless you put in an overpowered coil. The diverter arms should work very responsively. I assume the entry switch is OK, which leaves the thing you don't want to hear - disassbling the mechanism and cleaning it. Is the coil for the diverter arms OK? Does it feel sticky when you move the bar manually? Activate in coil test?
Somebody was making replacement bars for just that purpose, but I can’t for the life of me remember who; I ordered one 3 years ago. If I come across the info I’ll pass it along.
Quoted from MANTO1975:Hi mate,
no sorry I wont be going to TPF as I live in Australia, and I don't know H2H, if you have one for sale I am happy to pay for postage to Brisbane Australia
cheers
Trevor
Are you aware of IPDB? You can download operators manuals for hundreds of games there.
This is so great, Soren! I'm really excited to try this out. I love seeing people with programming skills revamp games to give them that little bit of extra depth that really takes them up another level. Thanks for all your amazing effort!
Quoted from Moviemax1:hello I have a rollergames but aside from changing bulbs, im new to fixing it. When I launch the ball, it has no power and cant even make it up the ramp. can someone tell me how to fix this. also the upper flipper has been sticking. any help anyone can give id appreaciate.
Your plunger either needs to be cleaned or needs a stronger spring. If you have played in in the past and the ball has made it up the ramp, then you need to remove the plunger and clean it thoroughly. I use solvent rather than soap based products so as to diminish the chances of dirt being attracted to the surfaces in the future but I may be overthinking it. Do NOT attempt to lubricate the shooter rod, it will rapidly become gummed up and unusable.
As to the flipper - your flippers almost certainly need to be rebuilt. It's a great introductory way to start working on your pin and take the mystery out of it. Follow this guide to the letter and you'll be so glad that you did! And let us know how it's going for you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Quoted from derfske:at least i think out of the factory it works 100% right?
That’s a big assumption; none of us have a Time Machine, unless it’s Data East
I foolishly sold my RG 3 years ago, and I tried everything to get that shot to work consistently. Based on the number of questions that were being asked about it during the years I owned it and still today, I’d say it has always been a fussy design which works intermittently.
My playfield was fully restored and clear coated, every mech rebuilt, the whole nine yards, it was still fussy. I did all the stuff you see recommended, flattening the top of the mag bar, making sure it’s dead even, making sure it’s a tiny bit higher than the playfield, moving the flipper this way and that, using only the stock flipper plunger, using a new non-stock flipper plunger, keeping the playfield waxed waxed waxed…
Still worked maybe 75% of the time.
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