(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)

By practicalsteve

7 years ago

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  • 1,083 posts
  • 177 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Prospekteur
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders


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#1037 4 months ago

Here’s my recent pickup. It came with: a full set of CPR plastics, flipper rebuild kits, new Mylar, drop targets. To that I added: Titan rubbers, Comet frosted 2SMDs for the GI (warm for the back box, sunlight for the rest), PinStadium Neos (so perfect for this game, with its already over the top lighting), Alpine speaker upgrade, 10” Polk sub (leftover from an old home theater setup… props to EJS for suggesting adding a sub, it works awesome).

Cleaning everything up, replacing the Mylar, installing all the new parts, fixing up the beat up cab corners, and rebuilding the GI connectors was a ton of work, but I think the end product was so worth it!

A5F7F055-A28C-49E1-B74E-25C1D155DB6E (resized).jpegD4204DC6-86DB-441B-B86D-19613FA6ADF8 (resized).jpegI have the PinStadiums cycle blue/red… love how the blue makes the green in the playfield fluoresce

Pin Stadium vid: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

1 week later
#1041 4 months ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

I'm in the process of getting new speakers for my Rollergames and I have a quick question.
What ohm type are your speakers?
It says 4 ohms in the manual, but the stock speakers in mine are 8 ohms.

Mine had 8ohm, too, but I replaced with 4ohm. I used this set, as the two 6” speakers fit in the cab and the speaker panel, and one tweeter fit perfectly in the gutted plastic of the stock tweeter, using the crossover that comes in the kit: amazon.com link »

I also used a spare Polk 10” powered sub I already had, which is a great improvement for Rollergames.

I ended up unplugging the 6” in the speaker panel, and the games sounds really good with the bass and mids coming from below and the highs coming from the speaker panel. I like how a hint of the speakers shows in the panel, as it gives a modern look.

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#1046 4 months ago

Full LED in my RG and no flicker in any bulbs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

I used standard Comet frosted LEDs (not the non-ghosting ones).

#1048 4 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

It’s not led flicker it’s like loss of power or something. It dims down but with solid old activation it will go back to full power. I’m thinking bad ground or connector

In that case, I’d first look at J6 on the backbox interconnect board. I reflowed the pins and rebuilt the connector with molex/trifurcon and it cleared up all my GI gremlins.

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#1050 4 months ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

Interesting! What brand of LEDs are you using? Are you using a LED OCD rely board?
GI flicker is a know a problem with William's multi-level dimming GI relys. There's quite a few threads on this board on it. Personally, I don't notice the flicker much unless I look at the back box while pressing the flipper buttons.
As for the ramp, what incline is your machine set to? I have mine set at floor level (5.5 degrees), so perhaps I need to re-level my machine.

This flickering shouldn’t be an issue on Rollergames, as it doesn’t have multi-level dimming, it’s just two simple on/off relays (solenoids 10 &11). For comparison, here are the diagrams for the GI in Rollergames, and the High/Low switching GI diagram for White Water
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1 week later
#1061 3 months ago
Quoted from Zholter:

Does anyone on here have or know of anyone having the long plastic that goes down the right side of the machine over the ball lock?
[quoted image]

Sorry, no help, but every game I’ve seen has damage to that plastic at the screw holes near the shooter (there isn’t even a photo of an unbroken one in the machine DB here, or on IPDB). It isn’t in the CPR kit, as it’s a cover, not a plastic. I plan to 3D print a sleeve to patch up the screw hole end of mine.

3 months later
#1075 4 days ago
Quoted from Prospekteur:

Can I join too? Here is my new machine
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"d567b201a956d8ef5bab9c76a0a8db8ee33c12d6-1637717975-1800"};

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[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What did you do with the magnet? Epoxy fill, or something?

#1081 4 hours ago
Quoted from copyboy311:

The knocker in my game was removed and I'd like to replace it. Marco has two Williams knockers. The one specified for Rollergames is unassembled and doesn't include the wiring connector. That's this one:
I don't see what the difference is in this assembled one, however, that does include the connector. It lists some compatible Williams machines, but not Rollergames. Will this one work?

The stock coil is: AE-23-800

To the first part you listed, add this cable: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-11835

Or, just but this one and save some $: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-knocker-assembly-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-pinball-machines.html

Here’s a photo of my stock one in Rollergames:

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