(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)

By practicalsteve

9 years ago


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  • 1,353 posts
  • 210 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 days ago by Mitchbo
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders

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#1037 2 years ago

Here’s my recent pickup. It came with: a full set of CPR plastics, flipper rebuild kits, new Mylar, drop targets. To that I added: Titan rubbers, Comet frosted 2SMDs for the GI (warm for the back box, sunlight for the rest), PinStadium Neos (so perfect for this game, with its already over the top lighting), Alpine speaker upgrade, 10” Polk sub (leftover from an old home theater setup… props to EJS for suggesting adding a sub, it works awesome).

Cleaning everything up, replacing the Mylar, installing all the new parts, fixing up the beat up cab corners, and rebuilding the GI connectors was a ton of work, but I think the end product was so worth it!

A5F7F055-A28C-49E1-B74E-25C1D155DB6E (resized).jpegA5F7F055-A28C-49E1-B74E-25C1D155DB6E (resized).jpegD4204DC6-86DB-441B-B86D-19613FA6ADF8 (resized).jpegD4204DC6-86DB-441B-B86D-19613FA6ADF8 (resized).jpegI have the PinStadiums cycle blue/red… love how the blue makes the green in the playfield fluoresceI have the PinStadiums cycle blue/red… love how the blue makes the green in the playfield fluoresce

Pin Stadium vid: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

1 week later
#1041 2 years ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

I'm in the process of getting new speakers for my Rollergames and I have a quick question.
What ohm type are your speakers?
It says 4 ohms in the manual, but the stock speakers in mine are 8 ohms.

Mine had 8ohm, too, but I replaced with 4ohm. I used this set, as the two 6” speakers fit in the cab and the speaker panel, and one tweeter fit perfectly in the gutted plastic of the stock tweeter, using the crossover that comes in the kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AVSHBUC

I also used a spare Polk 10” powered sub I already had, which is a great improvement for Rollergames.

I ended up unplugging the 6” in the speaker panel, and the games sounds really good with the bass and mids coming from below and the highs coming from the speaker panel. I like how a hint of the speakers shows in the panel, as it gives a modern look.

163256D3-A0BD-49C7-AF05-3776524202C5 (resized).jpeg163256D3-A0BD-49C7-AF05-3776524202C5 (resized).jpeg528463A9-D1CC-4916-AF51-9C72044B92A6 (resized).jpeg528463A9-D1CC-4916-AF51-9C72044B92A6 (resized).jpeg
#1046 2 years ago

Full LED in my RG and no flicker in any bulbs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

I used standard Comet frosted LEDs (not the non-ghosting ones).

#1048 2 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

It’s not led flicker it’s like loss of power or something. It dims down but with solid old activation it will go back to full power. I’m thinking bad ground or connector

In that case, I’d first look at J6 on the backbox interconnect board. I reflowed the pins and rebuilt the connector with molex/trifurcon and it cleared up all my GI gremlins.

ED005580-35A9-4EC5-945F-21A3AF630E57 (resized).jpegED005580-35A9-4EC5-945F-21A3AF630E57 (resized).jpeg
#1050 2 years ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

Interesting! What brand of LEDs are you using? Are you using a LED OCD rely board?
GI flicker is a know a problem with William's multi-level dimming GI relys. There's quite a few threads on this board on it. Personally, I don't notice the flicker much unless I look at the back box while pressing the flipper buttons.
As for the ramp, what incline is your machine set to? I have mine set at floor level (5.5 degrees), so perhaps I need to re-level my machine.

This flickering shouldn’t be an issue on Rollergames, as it doesn’t have multi-level dimming, it’s just two simple on/off relays (solenoids 10 &11). For comparison, here are the diagrams for the GI in Rollergames, and the High/Low switching GI diagram for White Water
07C7D778-B130-4BC0-9566-D010E27BD139 (resized).jpeg07C7D778-B130-4BC0-9566-D010E27BD139 (resized).jpegEBCCA0A9-03E4-4739-9E18-0692EEE3C288 (resized).jpegEBCCA0A9-03E4-4739-9E18-0692EEE3C288 (resized).jpegE7CE5FAE-1481-4D53-AC4E-8E94AA9042C1 (resized).jpegE7CE5FAE-1481-4D53-AC4E-8E94AA9042C1 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#1061 2 years ago
Quoted from Zholter:

Does anyone on here have or know of anyone having the long plastic that goes down the right side of the machine over the ball lock?
[quoted image]

Sorry, no help, but every game I’ve seen has damage to that plastic at the screw holes near the shooter (there isn’t even a photo of an unbroken one in the machine DB here, or on IPDB). It isn’t in the CPR kit, as it’s a cover, not a plastic. I plan to 3D print a sleeve to patch up the screw hole end of mine.

3 months later
#1075 2 years ago
Quoted from Prospekteur:

Can I join too? Here is my new machine
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"d567b201a956d8ef5bab9c76a0a8db8ee33c12d6-1637717975-1800"};
//]]>

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What did you do with the magnet? Epoxy fill, or something?

#1081 2 years ago
Quoted from copyboy311:

The knocker in my game was removed and I'd like to replace it. Marco has two Williams knockers. The one specified for Rollergames is unassembled and doesn't include the wiring connector. That's this one:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10686-1
I don't see what the difference is in this assembled one, however, that does include the connector. It lists some compatible Williams machines, but not Rollergames. Will this one work?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10686-2

The stock coil is: AE-23-800

To the first part you listed, add this cable: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-11835

Or, just but this one and save some $: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-knocker-assembly-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-pinball-machines.html

Here’s a photo of my stock one in Rollergames:

9803D5C1-BEBD-470B-846E-88BC5C24060F (resized).jpeg9803D5C1-BEBD-470B-846E-88BC5C24060F (resized).jpeg
#1084 2 years ago
Quoted from Prospekteur:

Can someone make an shot of the backdoor, where I can see where the wires from the middle microswitch are goin to? Especially the wire of the rearmost contact of the middle microswitch........

Are you looking for a photo of the light panel behind the translite, or the coin door? I’m not understanding “backdoor”.

3 weeks later
#1087 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

What is typical premium placed on a Diamond plated Rollergames vs a standard in similar condition? Rough idea?

$100-$200, based on the archive. Great pin, but not one where collectors go crazy for variants.

2 weeks later
#1091 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Can someone post a pic or description of which flashers were the missing ones? I see some pics in the gallery of added flashers, but mine came with the original flashers with sockets, etc. I was just wondering which were the missing/removed ones.

There were 15 flashers in the back box on prototype games, along with two extra on the playfield. Here is a photo of my standard game- no flashers in the back box.

64CE0C1D-6E15-455C-A97B-523270937631 (resized).jpeg64CE0C1D-6E15-455C-A97B-523270937631 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#1104 2 years ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Anybody have any tricks for getting the diverter arm assembly apart? I need to realign the 1st diverter arm, it doesn't come out far enough causing the ball to hit the corner and reject. The 2nd diverter arm is aligned correctly and works 100%.

This service bulletin may help, if you don’t already have it: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/SS64.pdf

#1106 2 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Hopefully picking up a Rollergames next weekend. Job number one will be getting that ramp redone and also doing the cover on the right side. If you would like to be notified when the ramps are ready to ship, sign up for a stock notification here: https://rampomatic.com/products/williams-rollergames-main-ramp?_pos=1&_sid=3e7d0e8db&_ss=r&variant=41066752770231
Pricing TBD

Count me in on the right side cover!

1 week later
#1113 2 years ago
Quoted from apk8488:

Hi all, The display recently stopped working completely and I thought I would start with replacing the ribbon first, before changing out the display to an LED. Wondering if anyone knows the part number for the ribbon. Marco has two, a 20 pin 9", and a 26 pin 27". Or maybe it's not either of those?
Anyone else experienced this (Williams 11C), and if so, what was the fix?
Thanks in advance!

Manual lists a 20 and a 26, depends which you want to replace. Pg 70: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/Williams_1990_Rollergames_Manual.pdf

1 month later
#1139 2 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Sneak preview...the cover will have stainless brackets riveted on since the original formed ones all break quickly. 85 holes on the main ramp...71 of them are CNC cut...thats a first for me
[quoted image]

Ramp cover order placed today, thanks for making these JodyG !

1 month later
#1150 1 year ago
Quoted from ArgosySK:

Hi. I am helping a friend with his Rollergames I looking for information on how long the magnet should hold the ball.
I hear "don't Flip....Flip" and then a couple of seconds later, the magnet releases.
Questions
1. Is that normal, or should it release when we hear "Flip"
2. Is there an adjustment to have it release sooner?

What you describe is correct function, magnet catches and holds the ball, if you don’t flip it releases it.

#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Regarding the VUK - Is there a spring directly below the ball holder that helps hold it up off of the switch until a ball weights it down, or does the fork of the switch provide the only support? The assembly diagram doesn't show a spring in this position. I took mine apart, cleaned it, and reassembled but it doesn't spring up like I would expect. I admit that I didn't thoroughly inspect and test it before disassembling.

No spring (This is a photo from my rebuild, I’ve since installed Cliffy’s to cover the wear):

D9BC4404-079C-4E28-9187-6497F5164A40 (resized).jpegD9BC4404-079C-4E28-9187-6497F5164A40 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#1168 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

Hi RG crew -
Has anyone purchased the CPR mirrored backglass for this game - any feedback/thoughts?

Yup, picked it up during the Black Friday sale… Very well done, just a bit of mirroring to make it look different, but not glaringly different from the translite. Also picked up the CPR topper… not epic, but for $80 it isn’t bad.

With the game off you can see the difference from the RBION next to it (hard to capture a mirror in a photo):
88E47079-3B43-4FF8-A1CE-FB7A7EE9852C (resized).jpeg88E47079-3B43-4FF8-A1CE-FB7A7EE9852C (resized).jpeg

With the game on, the colors are deeper and richer than what the translite provided:
44F2A5D4-12F3-4F08-82BA-B969ABFE5E2A (resized).jpeg44F2A5D4-12F3-4F08-82BA-B969ABFE5E2A (resized).jpeg

11 months later
#1195 10 months ago
Quoted from derfske:

Got this machine 2 days now.. I fixed the magnet , got all the corrosion off the shaft. Flatten the upper surface (yes I got a lathe )
Now I found out the flipper don't want to make the shot.. I've set the flipper to the indicator on the playfield..
Any more tips? New flipper sleeve? What can also help?
[quoted image]

Rebuild the flippers and upgrade them to external springs while you’re at it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

4 months later
#1249 5 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’m getting some things situated for a restoration and I’m working on a few things for the playfield. Going to be making waterslide decals for the company sponsors. I’ve been able to find replacement logos online but when I try to find this company called “Share Data” I can’t find anything. Anyone know who this company is or able to provide a link to a site of theirs?
[quoted image]

https://www.hobbydb.com/marketplaces/hobbydb/subjects/sharedata-inc-publisher

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