I recently picked-up a Rollergames. Love the game and it plays great, but some of the flash lamps aren't working. When I run the solenoid test there is a click, but no flash on Flash 1/C side, Flash 2/C side, and Flash 8/C side. Also, with Flash 10 (Insert GI) there is no noise or flash. Basically, all the flashers at the top work (except two on the back left corner), but none of the lower flashers work (such as the flashers by the in-lanes) and none of the flashers under the playfield work. I changed all the bulbs and checked all the fuses, but no change. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks for everyone's input on the flashers. I kept non-LED bulbs in the flashers (changed the inserts though to LEDs). Also, checked the fuses pulled out and they all checked fine (continuity), as did the connectors. No luck. Going to check the wires one night this week when I have more time. Last time I checked it seemed like the black and orange wires were going to the flashers, but I didn't trace them all the way for any not being connected. On another note, my metal post by the top flipper is just metal (no rubber sleeve). My rubber ring kit came with sleeves for the metal posts, and I was able to put them on all my metal posts except for the one by the flipper since it was thicker then the other posts (so the rubber sleeve wouldn't fit over the post).

In test mode, Flashers 1, 2, 8, 9, and 10 don't work. For Flash 1, 2, and 8, I hear the solenoid click (in test mode) but no flash. I believe these are the two flashers at the top of the Wall of Death since Flash 3 is nearby and it works. Flash 9 (no label in solenoid test mode so no idea what it does) and Flash 10 (Insert GI in solenoid test mode) don't make a click or flash. Except for one flasher close to the S by the SKATE targets, none of the other flashers on or under the playfield work (plus the two I mentioned at the top of the Wall that also don't work). Flash 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 11 all work, as does 12 (A/C select clicks in test mode). Thanks for reviewing your notes. Appreciate it.

Mine is just a metal post on the left, although it looks like at one point it may have had a rubber ring on it (see the black lines in the middle). It was this way when I got the game.

Upper_Flipper_Post_(resized).jpg

Still having problems with some of my flashers. Changed fuses, checked connectors, and swapped the relays behind in the back box with the one under the playfield. No change. Some just aren't getting power. All have an orange and a black wire going to them. Need to try and trace those wires but so far get lost trying to do so. Anyone know whether they are all connected to the boards with one connector, or more connectors, and which connector(s)? Thanks for helping me try and solve this mystery.

Bodhi - Keep trying with the alignment of the habitrail. That was an issue with my machine, but once I got it right it works 100% of the time. Just being off a little can make a huge difference.

Andy_B. - Thanks for the tip. I'll check the connectors and see if any are swapped. Everything else seems fine and most of the flashers work (All except Flashers 1 and 2 on the top left corner of The Wall, plus the ones under the playfield don't work either), but I'm open to trying things to fix the problem.

I tried swapping the working flasher bulbs with those that weren't working and no difference. In looking at the manual Flash 1 and Flash 2 (which don't work for me) seem to be the two at the top of the ramp, plus the flasher bulb under the ramp of the Atomic Whip and the two flashers by the flipper in-lanes. All the other flashers at the top of the game, and the one by the SKATE targets work. All the connectors on the Interconnect Board seem to be in the right place and except for these flashers everything else in the game works great. I'm stumped.

The habitrail by the VUK is the metal contraption in the center of the playfield that the ball follows after the VUK kicks the ball up. It's yellow on my game but on some games it isn't painted (just chrome). If it isn't aligned just right then the ball can hit it while traveling up, which can cause it to come back down onto the VUK (or what the game calls "The Pit"). Mine looked like it was aligned, but I had to keep adjusting it until it was just right for it to work 100% of the time (and I used a washer on one of the posts by the VUC). I think it's trial and error to get it right. If the ball pops up but doesn't seem to hit anything (although if it is just scrapping the habitrail it can be hard to tell other than it doesn't always make it around the bend), then I guess something else is going on with the game.

Here is a picture of the habitrail over the VUK. It's the yellow metal piece in the center. As I mentioned in my earlier post, on some games it isn't painted yellow (just metal/chrome).

Rollergames_Playfield_(resized).JPG

Sorry to be asking again, but the weekend is almost here and that is when I have the time to work on my game. Anyone have any additional suggestions on getting my flashers at Flash 1 and Flash 2 to work (those are the left two at the top of the ramp, as well as most on the playfield, including the two by the flipper in-lanes). I've checked the connections at the boards, changed fuses, and changed the bulbs, but no luck. All I can see is that ever flasher, whether it works or not, seems to have a black and an orange wire soldered to it, but why some work and others don't remains a mystery to me. Thanks for all the suggestions so far, and for any new ones that anyone has.

Thanks for the help and photos. Now I know which flashes go to Flash 1, Flash 2, and Flash 8! All fuses (interconnect and aux board) checked and have continuity (just recently replaced them all, but also pulled them out to double-check). Will investigate further this weekend when I have more free time. I'm hoping I don't have to look under the Ramp. I lifted it off once when I changed all the rubber rings, but I hate to move it out of fear that something will go wrong as other than some of the flashers the game plays great. Did I mention how I hate this electrical stuff (give me a flipper to rebuild, change a coil, change a target or switch and I'm happy).

Thanks for the additional info. I appreciate you all trying to help me out. I know it is not easy via postings versus actually seeing the machine. When I got the game these particular flashers never worked. Originally I thought just the bulbs were bad, but I've since changed them all (and also swapped out ones that worked elsewhere but that didn't fix anything). I've also already tried switching the relays. I'm going to try the Q-tip with alcohol on the fuses to see if that does anything. I'm also going to try and trace the wiring (I believe all the flashers, whether under the Ramp or under the playfield have the black and orange wires going to them) and if I see anything out of the ordinary will take some photos (will probably just take a lot of photos since maybe someone will see something that I miss). Maybe I'll find a loose or broken wire somewhere. Where are the transistors for the flash bulbs and can I test them while they are connected to the board? If it's a bad or broken wire I can probably fix that myself. If it's a bad trace within the interconnect board (and I have no idea how to even test for that other than visually looking for a break), then that's beyond my abilities (I can solder the wires under the playfield, but I won't touch the boards (which may also be an issue if one of the transistors are bad). Looks like I have some work cut out for me this weekend.

When I run the solenoid test there is a click but no flash anywhere for Flash 1, 2, or 8 (Flash 3-7 all work, as does everything else in the game). I didn't lift up the ramp tonight, but looking under the playfield all the wires to the flash bulbs look intact and soldered on (and when I had the ramp up last time there were black and orange wires to the flash lamps that didn't work). Connectors to the board look okay (nothing looks visually burnt). I did notice 2 loose red wires coming out of the connector at J9 on the Interconnect board at pin 4 and 6 (and there is no wire at pin 5) that go no where (they just stop about 4 inches after leaving the connector - not sure if they serve a purpose and my flashers all seem to have orange and black wires to them (not red)). I've attached photos of the boards (and can obviously take more photos if a close up of something would be helpful). Maybe someone will spot something that looks off. Thanks.

IMGP1794_(resized).JPG

IMGP1793_(resized).JPG

IMGP1792_(resized).JPG

IMGP1791_(resized).JPG

IMGP1790_(resized).JPG

IMGP1788_(resized).JPG

IMGP1787_(resized).JPG

IMGP1786_(resized).JPG

IMGP1785_(resized).JPG

IMGP1784_(resized).JPG

Please see my earlier post for details, but these photos are probably clearer.

IMGP1785_(resized).JPG

IMGP1786_(resized).JPG

IMGP1784_(resized).JPG

IMGP1787_(resized).JPG

IMGP1788_(resized).JPG

IMGP1790_(resized).JPG

IMGP1791_(resized).JPG

IMGP1792_(resized).JPG

IMGP1793_(resized).JPG

IMGP1794_(resized).JPG

IMGP1795_(resized).JPG

IMGP1796_(resized).JPG

IMGP1798_(resized).JPG

IMGP1799_(resized).JPG

IMGP1800_(resized).JPG

I can try swapping out the socket for Flash 1, but none of the flashers in that lamp board (i.e. 1X, 2X, and 4X work). Actually none of the flashers under the playfield work. If Flash 10 is the lights in the backbox then I got that to work (I read that I needed to connect one brown wire to J-11, position 6 on the interconnect board and now my backbox lights flash on/off with game play). Does Flash 1, 2, and 8 all connect to the boards via the same connectors? I feel like it is a power issue where the game isn't sending power to those flash bulbs. I don't think it's a broken wire (everything looks fine plus it's multiple flashers - Flash 1, 2, and 8), but something going on either behind the boards (which I won't be able to fix and I don't want to pull all my boards out) or something with one or more connectors that send the signal to those flashers.

Thanks. I'll check out that connector and hit it with a meter tomorrow morning. Will let you know. Thanks for your continued help. I appreciate it.

I checked my J5 and J11 (since it had an orange wire going to it) on my Aux Board and they look fine. Does my wiring look the same as your wiring at these connections (see photos). Also tried Q-tips with alcohol on the fuse connectors but no luck. Will need to get out my DMM and test the pins at the connector.

Aux_J5_(resized).JPG

Aux_J11_(resized).JPG

Hmm....maybe you are on to something. My J9 on the Interconnect board has two replaced male pins at spots 1 and 2. The connector for J9 has the following wires (from left to right) J9-1 Brown, J9-2 Blue, J9-3 Orange, J9-4 Red (but the wire is cut so doesn't go anywhere), J9-5 (no wire), J9-6 Red (but the wire is cut so doesn't go anywhere), and J9-7 Yellow. On my J10 on the Interconnect Board, again, the first two male pins look like they have been replaced. The wiring here at the connector is very interesting and goes like this: J10-1 Brown, J10-2 Green, J10-3 White, J10-4 White with Green Bars, J10-5 Red, J10-6 (no wire), J10-7 (no wire and no male puin), and then male pins J10-8, J10-9, and J10-10 are there, but the connector with the wires was broken off and it stops at J10-7. Maybe I have some wrong or missing wires (and not sure why J10 on the board has 10 male pins but someone broke the connector and it only has space for 7 wires. I've attached a few photos as well. As far as the replaced connector with a single wire at the insert board flasher location, I don't have insert board flashers, but I read on this forum that if you connect that brown wire to the 6th spot it will make the GI lights in the back box flash with the game so I did that and it works! (and before the brown wire was just hanging loose). Would you please tell me how many wires you have at the J9 and J10 connectors on your interconnect board and whether the wiring is the same or different (whether in the color of the wires or the number of the wires to the connector)? Thanks.

IMG_1521_(resized).JPG

IMG_1524_(resized).JPG

J10_connector_(resized).JPG

J9_connector_(resized).JPG

I will download the manual. Thanks for the link. As far as the coil test, there is a click, but no flash on Flash 1/C side, Flash 2/C side, and Flash 8/C side. Also, with Flash 10 (Insert GI) there is no noise or flash. Everything on the A side works/fires.

Thanks. I appreciate "the long and detailed rant!" I've downloaded the manual too. I'm going to try and address the backbox lights tonight by moving the brown wire to fix the solenoid 10 issue. That's the easy fix! The rest (and some more photos) is going to have to wait until the weekend when I have some time to fiddle around. Stay tuned and wish me luck!

No problem. I just seriously appreciate all the help people have been providing on this site. This is my first game. I love playing it and working on it (although get frustrated when I can't make it work 100%). Anything mechanically related was a breeze for me to fix or adjust. Always been that way, even as a kid and still today. Electrical stuff (especially circuit boards) is where things get more complicated for me (I do have a DMM though and can do some basic wiring around the house). Plus with the machine being 35 years old don't like to blindly tinker too much. Having the manual now though should help at least with the connectors and wire colors. My game does not have the flashers in the Backbox so hopefully there isn't too much of a disconnect between the manual and my machine. I'm hoping to get the game to work 100%, have learned a lot already and am learning more; and then hope to get another game (and then another).

Oops actually the game is 25 years old (momentarily lapse in math skills)

Moved the brown wire to 2J11-6 and now the GI lights in the back box flash correctly! So he can be taught! That's one down. This weekend will try and addresses flashers 1, 2, and 8.

Best bet on the plastic is to periodically check EBay. As was already said the left corner is almost always broken (it's a poor design- sticks out so easy for the ball to break). It was broken on mine when I got the game and didn't bother me, but then the right corner broke off so I wanted a replacement. Found one on eBay. They seem to come and go.

Here is what I have checked so far and what I have found. First, when I am in test mode, and manually testing the solenoids, for flashers 1, 2, and 8 the test clicks once with no flash and then stops (no noise or flash). For all the other solenoid flash tests (where the flash works) the flash keeps on flashing until I manually advance the test). Not sure if that is significant or not, but I thought I would mention it.

I then checked the resistors in the Interconnect Board for continuity and all work EXCEPT R8. Not sure what R8 is for, but again, wanted to point this out.

With regard to wiring in the backbox, all wiring on the CPU Board (5) that I could tell relate to the flashers (i.e. 5J5 and 5J11) seems fine/matches the manual (5J5 had two black wires that looped around but were connected to the connector where the manual indicated - if a photo would be helpful I can attach one). On the Interconnect Board, 2J4, 2J7, and 2J12 all match the manual. For 2J8-3 my game is missing the violet wire indicated in the manual. Also, my 2J9 doesn't match the manual at all, as my wires are 2J9-1 YELLOW, 2J9-5 ORANGE, 2J9-6 BLUE, and 2J9-7 BROWN. Not sure if 2J9 would have any impact on the flashers (manual says this connector is for playfield general illumination), but again, thought I would mention it.

I haven't gotten under the playfield yet to follow the wires from the backbox to the flashers (although I have checked the wires at the flashers and they appear fine). Not sure if I will be able to do so today. Want to check continuity of the wire from the connectors in the backbox to where they end at the flasher bulb sockets. Not sure if there are other tests that I can run.

Yes, those are the flashers that aren't working for me. They all have orange and black wires connected to them, and it seems like I have the connectors in the right places and wired correctly (except for perhaps one, although that one isn't related to the flashers), so now I need to try the other stuff you and nerdygrrl have suggested. That's going to take some time, which I don't mind (I want to solve this!), but I am headed out of town for work so won't be able to troubleshoot until next weekend (so you get a break from me for at least a week). I'll report back on meter readings and take more photos (in better focus). With regard to the coil, I noticed that too. It works though (probably just a little stronger, although honestly when I play the game I don't find much of a difference between the two lower flippers), so won't swap that out until my next order from PinballLife. Swapping out a coil and doing flipper rebuilds when needed is something I can handle! If it's mechanical I am definitely in my comfort zone.

For all of you who have given me advice on fixing my flashers, just wanted to let you know that I haven't got to work on the game yet. I was out of town for work (with an unexpected extended trip away from home) and now need to do my taxes, but I will go back to working on it soon. As I've said before, I truly appreciate everyone's input and I didn't want anyone to think I was being ungrateful by not using the advice or even reporting back whether the advice worked or not. I'll post again (hopefully with good news) once I've had the time to work on it again.

Try this link - http://www.passionforpinball.com/RG.htm

I haven't bought one (yet) but my wall entrance is also cracked so I may get this cliffy protector for it.

Steve - I have an intact one (it's a replacement) and will measure for you at the end of the week when I back in town/at my house, or you can just buy one on Ebay. Here is a link to one (note: I'm not the seller, but bought my replacement on Ebay several months ago so figured I would check for you) - ebay.com link: Williams ROLLER GAMES Center 3 Targets Down Pinball Machine Plastic

Yes best of luck with it! It's a great game and you will enjoy it even more with all the time and effort you put into making it great again. Had mine for about a year now and still one of my favorites in my collection. From time to time I want to make it even better, but haven't found the time yet. Oh well, maybe this winter when I go back into hibernation.

I am also on the road today but home this weekend and will look under my playfield for those wires and let you know / take photos (unless nerdygrrl gets back with the answer before me).

Here are a couple of photos from under my playfield in I believe the same area you are asking about. In looking under my playfield I agree with nerdygrrl that the lose hanging green wire with the connector on the end goes to a microswitch. I thought maybe the switch for the Atomic Whip (that is where my green wire in that area goes), but in looking at your photo this switch may already be connected on your machine. If it is, I'd look for another switch nearby that isn't connected. As far as the other wires, they aren't entirely clear from your picture, but maybe in looking at my picture you can figure it out. If you want more photos, just let me know.

Rollergames 1 (resized).JPG

Rollergames 2 (resized).JPG

I bought one on Ebay from Classic Arcades that worked out just fine (fits fine and looks good), although as others have pointed out there are other options as well.

I think my J3 Connector on my Interconnect Board is wired incorrectly (and not sure if the ICBoard itself is a Rollergames Board). In my manual/schematics it is supposed to be (from right to left) yellow wires for the first 9 pins, then no connection at the 10th pin, and then red wires for the remaining pins (11 to 18). However, my game is wired with the red wires in the first 8 pins, then the connector has no pin at the 9th pin, and then yellow wires for the remaining pins (10 to 18). The connections on the MPU board are correct (with the yellow wires going to J7 and the red wires going to J6). See photos for J3 connector. I noticed then when I ordered a new ICB board that the pins didn't match up at J3 (the new board follows the manual). Do your games follow the manual or are they wired like mine at ICB J3? Thanks.

Rollergames ICB (resized).JPG

Rollergames ICB2 (resized).JPG

Anyone have a chance this weekend to check the wiring at their J3 connector on the interconnect board? From right to left does your wiring go red wires and then yellow wires (like my game is wired - see pictures previously posted), or yellow wires and then red wires (like the manual/schematics show)? Not sure if my wiring is wrong, or if the manual is wrong. Thanks.

Perfect. Thank you both for the info and photo. Very helpful and glad to know mine at least matches others. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

The metal wire form varies. Not sure if there was any production order to it. I have a relatively early production one (not prototype though) and mine is yellow for the Pit, with the rest of my game like yours. I have seen some with more metal and less colors, and I think the early ones may have been all colors, but I thought I read somewhere that some operators thought it made the game look cheaper, like plastic instead of metal, so they started using more unpainted ones later on. Not sure if that is true though. Maybe just to save on production costs. I actually like the colors since the game is already so colorful.

I know it has been many months since I reached out on this forum, but I was finally able to get all my flashers on the playfield to work. Turned out a couple of the resistors on the interconnect board were the problem. Replaced them and problem solved! It's really great having everything light up so nicely. I think closing the loop is the right things to do and of course, I wanted to say thanks to all of you who provided some really helpful troubleshooting advice.

Hi Rollergame owners - is your translite behind a piece of glass or plastic? Mine is behind (seems like it was glued or otherwise stuck on) a piece of flexible plastic and wasn't sure whether this was how the games were originally produced (non-protype/non-early version) or whether the translites were originally behind glass and during the life of my machine the glass broke and was replaced with a plastic reproduction? Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I thought that might be the case. I love my Rollergames and it plays great, but it was definitely routed and has some cosmetic imperfections, so I am not surprised that the glass was replaced by plastic at some point in its life. Fortunately the artwork still looks good. Have a great Thanksgiving!

DumbAss is awesome! He (and others) provided me with a lot of good detailed information to help me with a problem I was having with my Rollergames. As a somewhat newbie it took me awhile (plus just finding the time to work on the game), but eventually got the problem solved.

Does anyone else's sound every get warbly? Sometimes when I am awarded a 2x or 3x on Rollermotion the sounds sort of warbles. If I get the bonus through the JET targets it sounds fine. Wasn't sure if that's just the game acting normally or if something is going on with the sound board. It doesn't really bother me (I just consider it the character of the game) and I can't remember if it was always this way or something more recent, but was wondering whether it was normal and if not, am concerned that it could get worse and I don't want to loose the sound on the game. Thanks as always for the input/advice!

Lift the playfield off the hinges in the cabinet and then move it forward (towards the two flippers) and rest part of it on a pillow or something. That's how I was able to easily get to the ramp in the back.

My game seems level, but when I hit a firm shot around the top loop/orbit (from right to left, or when I hit the inner loop, for example after getting the extra ball) very often the ball goes past the SKATE targets and then drains down the middle. Anyone else experience this? If not, besides adjusting the level of the entire machine either right or left, any other ideas? Anything adjustable on the playfield? It seems worse the firmer the shot (which I would think the opposite, meaning if maybe I hit a weak shot, but I feel like I am being penalized by the game for a good clean shot around the top or inner loops). Thanks as always for this community's input.

Thanks for the info! Here is a photo of my game before I did anything (playfield view) and here is another photo where I loosened the screw at the bottom of the ball guide but didn't get much movement (above view). Are there more screws further up the ball guide (like under the metal ramp) that also need to be loosened to move the guide further away from the rubber post? If not how do I adjust it? Thanks.

IMG_2255 (resized).JPG

IMG_2256 (resized).JPG

I think it's actually both of these. The ball hits the rubber post slightly and definitely hits the "S" target of SKATE. I think I have a slightly narrower post and that's an easy swap. The "S" target will take more time since I can't bend it back far enough from the top of the playfield so will see what I can adjust from below and possibly may need to remove it and bend it back a little before re-installing. That will likely be a weekend project unless I can squeeze some time in one night this week.

Problem solved! A new rubber post and adjusting the "S" target back and now the ball consistently lands on the left flipper. Made my night tonight (and also helped me get a high score on the game). Thanks again to everyone who posted helpful tips.

It goes behind the pit, but it looks like your bottom piece is broken (like most are). I found the same thing inside my cabinet when I bought mine and had to find a replacement piece before I could re-install it.

You can see it in this picture (behind The Pit).

pasted_image (resized).png

My "Go for the Wall" is a male voice, my "Go for the Pit" is a female voice. I don't recall a setting to change the voice, just a "Family" type setting to change the "Kick Butt" song, as apparently some people felt (at least back in 1990) that wasn't family friendly so gave the option to change the song (which I have never done since I don't have an issue with "Kick Butt").

Wow, great scores (at least compared to me)! I get excited when I break 20 million on my RG and at best have gotten about 50% of those scores. I can break 100 million on my T2, but on that machine 100 million is child's play.

Also check the alignment of the metal habitual over the pit. If it's off the ball hits it sometimes and goes back to the pit instead of to the flipper.

I'll take a photo for you later today when I get back to my house.

Hope these images help. Let me know if you want a different angle.

IMG_2600 (resized).JPG

IMG_2601 (resized).JPG

IMG_2602 (resized).JPG

I think it goes here. You can just make it out in this photo. Just behind and to the right of the drop targets.

3E181298-14DF-4883-9429-CF6D3FDA250E (resized).jpeg

Glad to hear you solved the issue! It’s a key part of the game so having it work is a definite plus! Enjoy.

Does it happen every time you lock one ball? I once had the same thing happen, used the plunger to shoot both balls, and then the problem went away (not sure why that seemed to reset things, but it did). Also, if that trick doesn't work, try unplugging the pin (and you may also need to remove the batteries). I have no idea if that will help but I know in general when my electronics act up unplugging them and letting them sit for awhile sometimes helps. Other than I think you will lose your high scores and perhaps settings, it's worth a shot since that sounds like an annoying problem.

As TheOnlyest said, it may just be your skills. I know I make it all the time when I have the magnet, but only about 50% of the time when I don't have it (that includes complete misses as well as what you described) - and I contributed that success rate to my skills, or lack thereof. If you have the same problem even with the magnet then I agree that perhaps rebuilding it will help (and obviously make sure you have the correct coil - not sure if your coil is the original or not). I also agree that I would adjust it back to where it is supposed to be.

I hope you are able to fix it or improve your skills - I love making that combo shot! After the "Kick Butt" song it's my favorite part of the game.

I just checked mine and on the left side of the ramp entrance (by the black post sleeve) my metal ball guide is bent in slightly at the bottom like yours; however, on the right side it looks like you have a cliffy or other type of protector for perhaps a cracked plastic, which I don't have. Not sure if that is creating part of the issue (although would also replace the coil sleeve and perhaps coil as well to see if that helps). If you want a photo of my ramp entrance let me know and I'll post one this weekend for you.

From time to time my Atomic Whip doesn't move the ball to the second level on the first try, but it usually makes it on the second attempt though. Rarely though it tries three times and then gives up (draining the ball). It happens so infrequently I've just learned to live with it. I am not aware of any setting to turn off the randomness of Sudden Death (and thought I read somewhere that this is why Rollergames isn't used for official tournaments). If there is a setting though I would definitely want to know as well.

My game always makes it with the magnet (which at my skill level means more success than without it), although sometimes it doesn't make it far enough to lock the ball (or does but then it doesn't lock and just rolls off the end of the upper ramp and I have to manually get it back up the ramp). As far as plunging the ball, mine started having that problem. The fix for me was to replace the red spring in the plunger assembly and I think even more importantly, clean or replace the plunger sleeve (which is a different size that the flipper sleeves). After that I was back in business (whether the pitch was 6.5 or 7 since I have adjusted the game both ways).

You can also change your locked balls setting too. I have mine set so it keeps the balls locked between games. This way if I have a good game I usually get multiball in one game, but if not, at least the locked balls are carried over making it more likely I will get multiball in the next game. I like this setting, but keeping it at 3 balls per game.