(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)

By practicalsteve

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,345 posts
  • 210 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by JustJared
  • Topic is favorited by 76 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Screenshot_20240304_215420_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg
IMG_9897 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9896 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9893 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9895 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9894 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9892 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9887 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9890 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9891 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9888 (resized).jpeg
592e8d0566c7328973f283eb9c90377d229015a6-1 (resized).jpg
IMG_9345 (resized).JPG
20240220_180156 (resized).jpg
20240220_180206 (resized).jpg
20240220_180638 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nerdygrrl.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#76 9 years ago

Hey can, anyone snap a pic for me of connector j-11 on the interconnect board/tell me what position the brown wire with red trace is at? I just accidentally pulled mine form the connector and I am not sure I trust the position of the schematics.

#78 9 years ago

You rock John!

#81 9 years ago

Awesome. That looks great!

1 week later
#82 9 years ago

OK, another day another problem. So now that my back box GI is sorted I can move onto the last of my RG issues-coils 13, 14, 18, and 20. These guys are all the special solenoids and run on the same line. They come of off the power auxiliary at J12 Pin 6 from there according to the manual they are supposed to go to the interconnect board J8 Pin 3. Mine however bypass the interconnect and go directly to the High Current driver underneath. This looks factory to me. Not at all a hack. Can anyone take a peek at their interconnect J8 and see if they have a purple with yellow trace in pin 3. It should go Brown, yellow with purple, purple with yellow, orange, red....

Much appreciated.

6 months later
#236 8 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

very possible, but that spring is not easy to get to, so when it broke it just didn't get fixed. The game would still earn money without it.

Yeah, it's a tight fit. I had to replace mine and it was more difficult than it should have been

#239 8 years ago
Quoted from Benjamin462:

Does anyone know or can tell me how to figure out the maximum amount of wattage that is sent to the 3 speakers on Rollergames. I know the 4" is 50w , the 6" is 10w etc. for the stock speakers but that doesn't necessarily mean that's the maximum wattage sent to them. Thanks. I'm new, I didn't know where else to post this.

Your board isn't really putting out "wattage" per se. Wattage is more of a rating of what the device you are using can handle.

Wattage = Amps x Volts

I don't have my manual handy in front of me, but it is easy enough to find with a multi meter. Take out your trusty meter and have at it.

4 weeks later
#267 8 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Having a multivalve issue. When I lock the second ball up, it doesn't eject the third ball into the shooter lane and the games cycles looking for a ball. The third ball will finally eject but if I lock it it only recognizes is being the second locked ball even though the other second locked ball said ball 2 locked.

I am having the same problem. Did you make any progress on this?

#275 8 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Enjoying your review on Pinball Podcast at the moment - about 1/2 way through. Really surprised about the 8300 units! Will also have to go back and check High Speed for similarities.
All you Rollergamers should check out the latest Pinball Podcast for Rob's Rollergames homage.

What no link? What kind of a plug is that???

#278 8 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

practicalsteve's response is good advice. I did a tear down and rebuild of my Rollergames and when I put it back together the lock switches were not correctly aligned.
The switches register when activated by hand but did not register when activated by a ball.
Hope that helps.

Winner-Winner. The top switch was just ever so misaligned. It was activating by hand and in the beginning with the ball. Readjusted it and it seems to have cleared that up. Sometimes I really overthink these problems. More often than not it's the simplest explanation.

1 month later
#314 8 years ago

Awesome! Great looking cards!

3 weeks later
#348 8 years ago

I have this piece on mine. Let me know if you need any more pics or a trace of the plastic.

unnamed-8_(resized).jpgunnamed-8_(resized).jpg

#350 8 years ago

There is another bit in the back as well. I am out of town for the weekend, but will snap a pic of the other piece when I get back.

#355 8 years ago
Quoted from nicknack66:

I recently picked-up a Rollergames. Love the game and it plays great, but some of the flash lamps aren't working. When I run the solenoid test there is a click, but no flash on Flash 1/C side, Flash 2/C side, and Flash 8/C side. Also, with Flash 10 (Insert GI) there is no noise or flash. Basically, all the flashers at the top work (except two on the back left corner), but none of the lower flashers work (such as the flashers by the in-lanes) and none of the flashers under the playfield work. I changed all the bulbs and checked all the fuses, but no change. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Check connector J4 and make sure it is seated properly. I would check the AC relay for the coils in question and relay boards. Make sure the connectors are plugged in, etc.
Flash 10/11 operate off of the same board. When you tested the fuses did you test them in circuit or pulled out? Just checking as many test fuses while they are in circuit and often get faulty readings. This sounds a lot like either a relay board issues or a fuse.

Make sure a wire has not become broken from one of the lamps causing the chain to go down.

#360 8 years ago

Just a metal post on mine as well.

#364 8 years ago

What number flashers are down? Can you give me a list?

Orange IIRC are flashers 1-8 and run off of fuse F2C located and come off of the 25V line on the on the aux board.
I had a similar problem. I'll review my notes and refresh my brain tomorrow.

Maybe check the BR for that line if the entire line is down.

2 weeks later
#382 8 years ago

Hey, sorry I have been out sick for a week or so. I'll go and take a look at my machine now. So as it stands

"Flashers 1, 2, 8, 9, and 10 don't work. For Flash 1, 2, and 8, I hear the solenoid click (in test mode) but no flash."

Is the writing harness that goes to your ramp plugged in? IIRC mine had a molex or two. I'll go and have a look at my machine now.

#383 8 years ago

Flasher 1 is the 1X on the lower playfield and is connected to the lamp board (see pic), Flasher 2 is top two left flashers on the wall (see pic), 10 is the insert illumination relay-when this clicks over your back box should flash on, 8 are your PF flashers (outlines and such)
Flasher One
unnamed-9_(resized).jpgunnamed-9_(resized).jpg

Flasher 2

unnamed-7_(resized).jpgunnamed-7_(resized).jpg

#384 8 years ago

For 10 I would reflow the connectors on the relay board. This is a known problem on these machines. If you can't do that swap it with a tested and working relay board.

Edit: Did you check the 4 fuses on the interconnect board? They are kind of hidden by all of the wiring harnesses and often get missed. Most folks just check the aux and PS. The fuses on the inter connect control the lamps in question (GI and BB).

I'll do some more digging on the PF flashers.

For Flasher one check the seating and wiring harness. Those stupid twist and lock outlets suck.

unnamed-10_(resized).jpgunnamed-10_(resized).jpg

#390 8 years ago

Sadly I can't find any of my photos from when I tore my PF down. I know I had a couple of the ramp. It might be worth posting a tech help or wanted pic of wall ramp wiring thread in the main section to see if anyone has a few photos. Seems odd that only two of the 8 flashers up top are out.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried cleaning the fuse connectors with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol. Unless I am reading it incorrectly 8/10 should run off of fuses that are on that interconnect board. It seems odd that both would be down simultaneously like that.

I will be home working on putting my SoF PF back together this weekend. I can snap pics and trace back anything that you need just let me know.

I don't know off of the top of my head, someone here may know, but you may be able to swap the relay board underneath the PF and the one in the back box to test out solenoid 10. I would clean the fuse connectors first though.

#396 8 years ago

The switching solenoids (solenoids) 1-8 the flasher transistor is the same as its mate. So if the mate is firing then the transistor should be ok. For example Flash 1C and Solenoid 1A outhole kicker both run off of Q33, Flash and Solenoid 2A/C run off of Q25, etc, etc

Solenoid 10 the backbone relay runs off of Q17

I feel like there are very simple explanations for 1, 2, and 10 it's just a matter of checking some connections and reflowing some connectors. When you say your Flasher 8 is out, do you mean that nothing top or bottom flashes during that test?

#399 8 years ago

Did you try swapping out the socket for Flasher 1 with one of the other two? Those twist sockets can be temperamental. Sometimes just flipping em over will work.

Is 10 working now or is that still not working?

#401 8 years ago

From the aux/driver board

Solenoid 1 is 5J5-9
Solenoid 2 is 5J5-8
Solenoid 8 is 5J5-1

You could hit it with a meter to see if there is juice if the wires are seated properly.

#405 8 years ago

Good catch! That 2J10 -5 is the 25V power.

#411 8 years ago

Solenoid 10 doesn't have an A/C side only solenoids 1-8 do (switching solenoids). So when 10 fires just your back box should go on/off.

#430 8 years ago

Very nice.

#435 8 years ago

The click you hear is the A/C relay switching from A to C. It should only click once.

1 month later
#464 8 years ago

+1 Plastic protectors especially for this piece are definitely needed.

5 months later
#516 7 years ago

Manual states there's a fuse on the Triac Assembly Board <- Off the top of my head I don't know what Triac Assy board is

but

Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

a fuse on the Input "high voltage" Power Line/Cabinet Box.

That's the silver box inside the cabinet body that the AC wire goes to. Should be a black twist cap with a fuse inside.

#517 7 years ago

After a few months down with my second bout of rhabdo I am finally moving forward on my Rollergames restoration. The fourth quarter is a bit snarky for me, but I hope to have the cab painted and decals affixed and metal pieces sent of for powder coating by the end of September. After that it is just a matter of waiting for some time to free up to have the PF touched and cleared. Re-assembly probably won't be until February/March.

The thread is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rollergames-the-restoration-make-america-skate-again

My original pickup thread of the poor gal is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-monday-pickup-250-rollergames

#519 7 years ago

Thanks, it's been a long time coming on this one. The new cab is so sweet! No matter what I did you just couldn't get rid of the funk from the water damage. Now that I am feeling a bit better and the humidity has died down we can paint and decal.

#521 7 years ago

It's definitely one of my faves. Took a lot to get it playable from the time I took it in. Now to make it minty and bullet proof it for years to come. I tend to look at restorations as more of a preservation kind of thing.

#524 7 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Bump. can anyone look under their playfield to help out?

One option would be to trace them back to a connector and ID them that way.

I am on the road today to grab a SST. I can look over my breakdown photos tonight to see where they go.

The green is going to be for a switch (roll over, etc). I can't really see the blue with yellow. Typically that color scheme is for power to solenoids. The manual will have a breakdown of all wire colors, etc

#528 7 years ago

I will be home all day today if you need any supplemental info to what nicknack66 and funch posted. Just let me know. I have my photos and the harness is sitting on a table removed

#533 7 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

The one thing I've learned with the Rollergames manual is that you should not take what's written there as always true. It's mostly true.

Truer words have never been spoken. I was chasing a down line of coils for a week or two. I did everything I could think of, even had the board looked at. One day I discovered the under the PF fuse hidden behind the wiring harness and voila. It wasn't in the manual as far as I can tell. What a PIA that was.

#546 7 years ago

I would check your trough switches. Perhaps a bad solder joint. I had this problem in my F14-reflowing everything helped.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
From: $ 399.95
Boards
PinSound
Boards
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 12.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nerdygrrl.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rock-rock-rockin-rollergames-club?tu=nerdygrrl and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.