Anyone got a shot of the back of the speaker display panel? The game I got is a real hodgepodge of stuff; the cpu is from a bugs bunny, the displays and speaker panel is from a diner, the aux and power supply is from something else. Being as the panel isn't from this game the lamp board and holes for said lamps were missing when I got it. But I found someone selling the lamp board that goes behind the williams letters on ebay. The only problem being that obviously there's now no holes for the lamps because diner didn't have any. So anyone have any good shots of the panel without the lamp board in the way? Just trying to get some ideas on how it was done originally before I go and start cutting stuff.

Hey Jay I was about to post pics of my interconnect board asking for suggestions and tips but in preparing I think I figured out your problem too. From what I can see using the manual and my own game. The way the magnet is connected to the playfield in this game is unusual from how system 11 normally is. By that I mean it not only skips going through the aux board but it also skips going through the interconnect board entirely. You see that connector in the upper right of your picture with the violet/yellow and black going into it. That is where the lose black/blue wire goes.

They probably did this so operators could more easily disable the magnet. But I don't see a single mention of it anywhere in the manual. You're probably gonna have to crimp some new pins if the wire came off completely like that. The black/blue wire also weirdly changes gauges when going through this connector which just added to my confusion in even finding it lol.

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Err...sorry the blue/black stripe wire not the black/blue wire

So any tips or suggestions for this? The through holes of J7 at pin 10 and 9 are completely gone but the back doesn't look that bad. I was thinking just a small tiny jumper from the back pins to their respective traces and a longer jumper from pin 9 to pin 4 of J9 would be ok. But J6 the GI input I'm not too sure how to go about it. I'm not sure if there will be any through holes at all to work with and jumping from the back to the front seems impractical. Jumping from the input pins to the fuses directly on the back seems messy too.
I should probably say this board dose fully work in the machine, it just looks really bad. Should I start a new thread for this? This is from a Rollergames.

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So how'd I do? I'll probably go over it one more time with alcohol to clean up a little more of the flux but I think I did pretty good. Probably applied a little too much heat to J7. But I just couldn't get the plug out at all. Eventually I just used tweezers on the pins while heating up the other side and just pulling them straight through. Did that from the start on J6 and it came out much quicker. Turns out there nothing connected on pin 4 in J9 for Rollergames so I didn't bother jumpering it to J7. If anyone's wondering I used trimmed down pins from the old connectors for jumpering the completely destroyed pads on the back of J7. The pads on J6 were surprisingly not that bad.

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Yeah just finished, works great. New everything. Technically the y gi mod explained on pinwiki was already done by someone before. but like the other work done on the interconnect board it just looked really bad (electrical tape mess). So I redid it properly. The gi wires going to the backbox insert panel are still slightly warm just like before. But I think that has more to do with the gauge of the wire itself.

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Anyone got any idea what would be causing the game to knock once randomly the instant the game is turned on? Is this an operator alert thing? I do have one target that works kinda sporadically. It just seems too random to be an alert seeing as it mostly only ever happen after being off for at least a day or so. Everything works fine in normal operation. All I can think of is one of the 74 chips not properly latching or unlatching 100% of the time when power is first being applied. The coil doesn't locks on for a second when first booting then unlocks when it done booting. It's just a quick little bang the instant the switch is thrown.

So there any info on this? I vaguely remember reading about this either here or somewhere else. I don't see any place that sells them and that part number itself is a little up in the air ( I think it's this https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=02-4453). I just rebuilt that flipper and even with all new parts it dose still seem to go a little farther then normal. It's very slightly over compressing the spring, not by much but it's there. Probably why the last spring was broken. I think it's used in the diverter too. The game plays fine without it, I'm just wondering.

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