(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)

By practicalsteve

5 years ago

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  • 890 posts
  • 141 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by dudah
  • Topic is favorited by 54 Pinsiders


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#747 1 year ago

Just picked up a Rollergames last month. Fun machine for sure. Everything was working fine when I got it but had some funky voltages going to the display so decided to recap the power supply. Was getting -/+ 124v on both HV outputs, with ZR4 completely missing on the board and ZR2 having been replaced and looking sketchy. After the new caps and some new 91v zener diodes the positive side was good to go at +91v, but the negative side was still -124v. Stupid me did not order the MJE15030 and MJE15031 transistors which is most likely the problem since I changed everything else around that circuit and still have the wrong voltage. After taking a closer look, someone had stuck an NTE55 in there at some point that has obviously failed. Hopefully once I pop a new one in there everything should be good to go. Also still need to change the 39K resistors but they're pretty close to spec so not urgent. Here's some before and after pics.

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#749 1 year ago

epeabs yeah all the caps from Great Plains, love that place. I think I remember seeing something about cleaning the optos to fix the drop targets but mine work fine so have no other experience. Could be the picture but your magnet looks low too.

#751 1 year ago

That's perfect then, if the magnet works you're set. After looking at my plastic last night your fix looks really good too. I think cleaning the optos involved a q tip on the infrared LED, can't remember where I saw it.

Based on the recommendation in Vid's guide to flipper rebuilding, I changed my flipper springs from the stock over the plungers tapered springs to the fliptronic style little spring attached to the capacitor/EOS bracket and man what a difference. Way more snappy. I was actually not really feeling this machine with the spongy flipper action even after a rebuild, but this mod is a game changer. Was a bit of a challenge though since I had three different flipper mount assemblies. One had the removable EOS bracket with spring holes, one had the tall bracket but needed a hole drilled and the other was just tall enough to hold the switch with no capacitor mount. It was spot welded in there so had to drill it out, make holes for a new bracket and mount it but worked like a charm. Can't recommend this mod enough to anyone else with a system 11 machine like this.

4 weeks later
#764 1 year ago

Had a toasty connector for the back box lights that was kind of hacked in there that I finally got around to replacing with a proper plug tonight. Works the same but looks a lot nicer and shouldn't have any more problems ever again.

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2 weeks later
#765 1 year ago

Just got a replacement diverter arm from jasonpaulbauer and works like a charm. Only thing left to do now is sort out some worn off insert decals. Anyone do the waterslide decals and mylar method? I'd rather not bother with clear coat.

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#767 1 year ago

Got the decals applied and it turned out decent. The toner from my printer was a little too see through even on the highest quality but otherwise they were a breeze to apply and seem like they'll hold up well enough. I printed them on some cheapo decals from ebay that by themselves are a little flimsy but with two coats of clear on them before soaking, it stiffened them right up. Cut them out with a little extra around the borders, stuck them on, let dry overnight, then waxed and ready to go. The files online are good but could do with larger thickness black outlines to cover the insert edges a bit more and the font a little bigger at least on the 'lite jetway' one pictured here. I put the stock one under the blue wire form for reference.

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#771 1 year ago

Yep, just printed on the decals from Adobe Acrobat with no scaling then two coats of clear right on the decals. I bet if they were printed at a copy shop they'd be even better. This is where I got them, link is down at the bottom posted by Iizi https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rollergames-insert-decals

That's a super clean machine wildwillys, congrats on getting a diamond plate one.

#772 1 year ago

Fixed my diverter even more as well since I had the ramp off to put a 'J' on the insert at the top. The new bar worked well, but the arms still didn't close as much as I'd like. Ended up filing a couple of mm off the coil stop so the plunger would go in further and moving the spring to a new hole I made a little further back. The bushings the arms sat in had too much play and was kind of random when closing, the spring now keeps tension on the whole thing and pushes the arms forward to their proper position. Coil stop was about 10mm when I finished.

Also while you're up there, add a few washers to the screw near the center microswitch to minimize stuck balls up there. Lifting the switch to just before the point it clicks lets the little wire gate swing more freely minimizing the stuck balls up there, mine was pretty bad. Four washers seemed to do the trick. Still gets stuck every once and a while but much less than before.

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2 months later
#799 1 year ago
Quoted from apk8488:

Has anyone had issues with the vertical up-kicker (that kicks out to the top right flipper a/k/a "don't flip--flip"? Mine doesn't always kick it out with enough force and then it falls back into the kicker a second time. I'm not sure if it's a coil or connector issue. It works 85% of the time.

Mine did the same and still does every once and a while. Turned out mine had a cotter pin someone installed instead of the factory pin holding the cup part the ball sits in and was getting stuck at funny angles because the pin was too tight. I changed it out for a 3mm bolt that was the right length and centered the upper wire form a bit more and it fixed it so that it works about 95% of the time. There's still too much play in the cup where it attaches due to age/wear which causes it to fail every so often that is probably only fixable by installing a new plunger/cup assembly but it works well enough for me now. Maybe check that there's smooth up and down play in the cup around that pin and that the switch isn't getting in the way underneath or something.

7 months later
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