Hey all.
Apologies for a long post from a total noob, but I’m at my wits’ end and desperate to get back to kicking butt.
I got Rollergames back in April as a first machine and love it. It ran pretty well for the first few months. Had some issues with the ball getting stuck in the pit, but my wife adjusted the wireform a bit and it was better. Upper right flipper would fail to fire on occasion, but wasn't a huge deal.
About a month ago, however, the WAR targets failed to pop back up. Then I noticed the ball popper had stopped working. I took a look at the Aux Driver board and, sure enough, fuse F4 had blown. The guy we bought it from had stuck a 7A fuse in there, which I guess is a reasonable thing to do, given the manual lists it that way in a couple places, though the schematic shows it as a 2.5A. I noticed later that F7 had also blown.
I replaced the fuses and a bunch of others on the board that looked fine but weren’t buzzing when I applied my DMM, but F4 still blows instantly whenever I turn the game on. Since it had worked for a few months with a 7A in there, I decided to try a 5A to see what happened. That blew instantly, and took F7 with it. I’ve since blown a bunch of F4s, but as long as I don’t go above a 2.5A, F7 doesn’t blow.
At this point, I’ve checked the resistance across all the solenoids on the VIO/YEL and YEL/VIO lines multiple times and they seem fine (Sols 04A, 06A, 07A, 13, 14, 18, 20 and 22). I pulled the Aux Power Driver and checked all of its transistors, which were fine. I pulled the CPU board and checked all the driver and pre-driver transistors for the solenoids. Some of the values I was reading on the drivers seemed a little high (like .8 or .9), but that didn’t seem too too crazy (though I’m super new at this, so correct me if that’s high enough to indicate bad transistors). I pulled 5P12 off and turned things on, and the F4 didn’t blow, which some threads I’ve come across indicate this probably means it’s not a board issue anyway (though I’ve also read that this is an unreliable test).
I’ve traced the VIO-YEL and YEL-VIO wires all around underneath the playfield, and haven’t found anything that looks odd. I thought I’d hit upon something when I saw that the VIO-YEL wire was missing from 2J8-3, but reading here I gather that’s just an idiosyncrasy with how the high voltage is run in Rollergames.
The under-playfield fuse has never blown. I tried pulling it once and turning the machine on, thinking this would open the loop and stop the current flowing to F4, but F4 blew immediately anyway (for whatever that’s worth).
So I’m unsure where to look next. My thought was to unsolder all the coils involved and start re-adding them one at a time until the fuse blows, but with my prediction about the effect of removing the under-playfield fuse being wrong, I’m not feeling particularly confident about my understanding of the playfield wiring.
Any help is appreciated. And if someone wants to explain why 2J8-3 is empty, I’m super curious.
Thanks,
Rob