Rollergames
Williams, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Shogun00.
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I realised that I've never posted in this thread and I've own my Rollergames since 2018. Doh!
Hi everyone!
Rollergames was the pinball machine, that got me into pinball back in 1990. It's also the first pinball machine that I've ever bought.
PS: No! My machine is not for sale.
Quoted from HHaase:The big problem I'm having at the moment is so much conflicting info on rubbers, and a few missing on mine.
Which rubbers?
Quoted from Bublehead:I agree, this is Ritchie magic as far as play is concerned. It shoots a lot like HS or HSII or F-14 to me... the theme will put you into an insane asylum, but the play is worth it.
Definitely similar to High Speed that's for sure. Quite a few similarities.
I'm in the process of getting new speakers for my Rollergames and I have a quick question.
What ohm type are your speakers?
It says 4 ohms in the manual, but the stock speakers in mine are 8 ohms.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Mine had 8ohm, too, but I replaced with 4ohm. I used this set, as the two 6” speakers fit in the cab and the speaker panel, and one tweeter fit perfectly in the gutted plastic of the stock tweeter, using the crossover that comes in the kit: amazon.com link »
Thank you so much. Just what I was looking for.
Quoted from Its_me_aj:1. The only issues I have left now are flickering GI, 2. a weak upper flipper after rebuild, 3. and the first diverter rejects the ball and sends it back down the ramp every once in a while
1. Are you using LEDs for the GI? If so, is the flickering occurring only when a solenoid is firing?
If yes to both, then that's normal. The two GI rely boards are designed for incandescent bulbs. You will need to get modern rely boards that work with LED lights to get rid of the flicker.
2. I would check the connectors on the high current board.
3. Also normal! My Rollergames and the one I used to play at the arcade both do the same thing. Sometimes the diverter just acts like a bat and connects with the ball perfectly.
Quoted from Leeb18509:I have LED's in my RG and there's no flicker. Also, haven't had a ball rejected back down the ramp since I've owned the game which is about 12 years. Neither one is normal.
Interesting! What brand of LEDs are you using? Are you using a LED OCD rely board?
GI flicker is a know a problem with William's multi-level dimming GI relys. There's quite a few threads on this board on it. Personally, I don't notice the flicker much unless I look at the back box while pressing the flipper buttons.
As for the ramp, what incline is your machine set to? I have mine set at floor level (5.5 degrees), so perhaps I need to re-level my machine.
Quoted from Zholter:I’m replacing my display, as it’s starting to flicker, with a led one. I’ve found many for $199 to $352 but idk what the differences are can anyone help me?
What are you looking for? A traditional orange type display? Or do you want one with a certain color?
Quoted from Zholter:Yea I’m not really looking for a specific color but I am looking to change to LED. It just makes it easier on the board and most likely will never have to be replaced again. Thank you Leeb18509.
I recent bought 2 PinScore displays for my machines and they work great.
Quoted from slochar:Has anyone started sudden death and then started multiball?
All the time!
Quoted from slochar:I'll have to see if I can trigger it again, I assume you don't get the jackpot in that mode until sudden death times out?
No, both are awarded with the jackpot being acknowledged music wise and Sudden Death million being acknowledged by sound effect.
Quoted from copyboy311:2) Where can I get this spring?
Ran into the same exact problem last year and replacing the spring fixed it. I bought this spring from Marcos and it works great.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-320#complimentary
Quoted from Prospekteur:Someone knows where I have to solder the red wire from the middle micro switch of the coindoor. It is soldered to the back last pin of the micro switch (if you watch from the back on the coindoor). The other side of the wire is loose. Can someone help?
Is this for a European coin door?
Quoted from Prospekteur:Can someone make an shot of the backdoor, where I can see where the wires from the middle microswitch are goin to? Especially the wire of the rearmost contact of the middle microswitch........
You might want to post this over on the Tech board, since you just need to see the wiring of a System 11 European coin door.
All System 11 coin doors are wired the same way, so it doesn't have to be Rollergames.
Quoted from keanan_connell:Decided to join the club
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Welcome aboard!
Quoted from Lopa:I guess I got me one of them fancy prototype games. Mine has diamond plate as well. What were the prototype games made for?
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Are the SKATE targets drop targets? If yes, then it's a prototype. If not then it's an early 1st production unit.
The prototypes are test units made before the actual production run.
Quoted from copyboy311:Balls per play: what’s your game set at? The card on my game says 3 balls per play, and that’s what I have it set to.
I wonder, though, if it would be more fun to make it a 4-ball game. It can be pretty unforgiving sometimes on that left drain and I rarely get past 15,000,000. Hi score is 26,000,000.
Mine is set at 3, but that's because of nostalgia reasons. There is no 4-ball option. Only 3-ball and 5-ball options are available. Go ahead and give it a go and see if you like the 5-ball option.
Quoted from slochar:Williams games let you select anywhere from one through nine balls.
You're right! I was confusing it with Robocop and Rollergames' "Install 5-Ball Rule" option.
Quoted from RatShack:Anybody have any tricks for getting the diverter arm assembly apart? I need to realign the 1st diverter arm, it doesn't come out far enough causing the ball to hit the corner and reject. The 2nd diverter arm is aligned correctly and works 100%.
I ran into a similar issue and it turned out that a wire got caught under the first arm, which prevented it from extending out all the way.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Manual lists a 20 and a 26, depends which you want to replace. Pg 70: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/Williams_1990_Rollergames_Manual.pdf
The display ribbon cable uses the 26-pin. The audio ribbon cable uses the 20-pin.
Quoted from HHaase:I believe the decals are already available somewhere, are they not?
Just for the inserts.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:The top of my magnet pole piece is deformed and needs to be ground flat. Will a Dremel with sanding wheels be sufficient for the job?
How badly deformed is it? The magnet's core/pole is adjustable.
Quoted from Ghostly:Wanted to know if anyone figured this out? I found a website that shows a picture of a 'Triac Assembly Board' in a Whirlwind.
According to https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/W/Whirlwind_OPS.pdf the C-13088 is for driving the fan topper on top of the cabinet. Was a similar functionality planned for Rollergames, then dropped? Anyone come across this board inside their cabinet? Maybe a prototype cab?
I think they are referring to the high current board (it looks similar to Triac) for Rollergames, which is for the deep freeze magnet. There is no fuse on the board itself, but there is a fuse clip mounted near it underneath the playfield. It's buried behind a bunch of wires, so it's very easy to overlook.
Quoted from sparrowsinfrost:Hi, i am a recent owner of this wonderful game and this issue just popped up: Multi ball drop targets are dropping when hit, but not lighting the icons in front of the targets, when all 3 are down they stay down and the lock arrow does not light. The lock will still light if it comes up in roller motion, this just started happening. hoping to look at it after work, appreciate any info as to where I should start. Thanks!
Take a look at the opto board. Those 3 drop target use optical switches. I would first check the connector. A simple loose connection can prevent the switches from working.
Quoted from Crimcyan:Just picked up a rollergames yesterday and just wondering a few things, are locked balls supposed to stay locked at the end of the game? When I drain the last ball the locked balls stay locked for the next game.
Yes, the game has a lock carryover feature and it's turned on by default. It can be adjusted in the adjustments section of the Operator's Menu.
Quoted from Crimcyan:Then is a led ocd board worth it for this game? I really like the fade effect but don't like incandescents that much.
I installed the LED OCD board a few months ago in mine and it works amazingly well.
Quoted from derfske:i rebuilded the flipper.. and flatten the magnet on the lathe..
get 50 60% succes shots now.. how come i cant get it how it was.. at least i think out of the factory it works 100% right?
There could be a few factors. There was a service bulletin on the Deep Freeze magnet back in early 1991.
The service bulletin recommends repositioning the flipper, so the red rubber is touching the ball.
Quoted from tb0ne:Unfortunately I do have the rubber grommet so that’s not the issue for me. Good suggestion though.
I recommend putting some electrical tape on the Chas coil bracket anyway. It's possible that the bracket is touching the metal arch/apron.
Quoted from HarrieD:Subscribing. I am going to pickup one this week and I am super excited. I own Whirlwind and Earthshaker and I really dig SYS11 machines and cheesy 80's themes. The playfield is in bad shape, all inserts are played off it so I will restore the playfield with airbrush and insert stickers.
But viewing youtube, reading the reviews made me stoked about this machine. I will first put it in my gameroom and play it to see if it's a keeper.
It's really hard to find a Rollergames in really good shape without restoration. This game was a massive money maker in the arcades back in the day. I spent hundreds of tokens on it at the local arcade back in the 90s.
You're going to love it though. The music is very addictive (soundtrack by Dan Forden) and the playfield (designed by Steve Ritchie) has an amazing flow.
Quoted from apk8488:Does anyone know what these errors mean, which show up every time I turn the game on with the 3 beep error sounds? "Check switch 53...Ball Lock 1" [54 also shows up as the second error]. I have the manual but can't locate these issues.
3 beeps is an error with the U4 ROM chip on the sound card.
Switches 53 and 54 are located in the locking mechanism. They hang upside down and are attached to a small circuit board.
Quoted from apk8488:Yes, I think it's the test report notification because after the three beeps, its says "Press Advance for Test Report".
My Rollergames' MPU (an actual System 11c) has never beep before. Either my board is silent or it's because I never experienced more than one error at worst.
Edit: Made the post more specific.
Quoted from apk8488:Are you talking about the high current driver board assembly? If so, that could make sense as it looks like the board itself has been "burnt" in a few areas. Thanks!
No, that's for the 50 volt diverter coil at the lock mechanism.
There a small circuit board under the plastic housing that covers the lock mech. That board hangs above the ball lock and the 2 micro-switches are mounted onto that board.
Quoted from Gunner007:I shouldn't have jumped for joy yet.
Fuse blew again?
Anyone have another suggestion?
There's definitely a short somewhere. I would start by examining the daisy chain of wiring on that GI circuit (bottom half of playfield). Considering that the fuse isn't blowing immediately; it's most likely that something is occasionally pressing onto the daisy chain.
Quoted from slochar:Locks from plunge unless you have custom ROM
I have the L2 ROM in mine and it never locks from plunge.
Quoted from RTS:I suspect a switch at the diverter perhaps. I'll dig into it. Thanks.
Check the lock switches too. It's possible that one of them is acting up.
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