Few pics of mine. First pin I bought. Just put LED's in the inserts.

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Just fine. I just got the CPR plastic set in, so she'll get a nice shop job here soon.

I played AMH in Denver, and.....I'm not sure that's a good swap.

The Pit has a light under it. Very cool. And the Multiball targets look glossier (sp?) lol..

I'm not convinced the freeze method is best for non-DP playfields. It worked well on my WH2O, but for the High Speed I did I just used Goo-Gone and a plastic razor blade and the Mylar came off with minimal paint loss. Just a little black came off around the inserts.
It's nerve wracking no matter what method you use!

If you did and made a few, I'd throw you a few bucks for it. I have a new CPR plastic set but haven't changed out my broken one for fear of the steel ball.

And that coil probably needs a new sleeve since it's such a pain to get to. Most people will pass on changing it out like the 8th spark plug on a Corvette.

I'll have an extra set when I get around to changing out my plastics with the CPR kit I bought.

Don't...even...think...about...it!

I just like the look a lot better. There's already enough pink and blue and purple and green and etc. on there. !

My RG with "Proto 2" ROMS have a permanent OP alert for a missing switch. All part of this, no doubt.

My J3 is yellow on the left, and red of the right just like the above picture.

I don't think that piece comes with the repro plastic set.

Try a new coil sleeve and check the EOS switch for gap and pitting.

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Only during SD or all the time? Maybe it's the gap on the flipper switch. Should easily make it all the way around. That apron card tho...

It's a great thing that there is enough Rollergames and their fans out there to figure this out. My first and still favorite pin!

First pin I bought over 8 years ago. Still own it, still love it.

Are these included in the CPR plastic set?

Cool. Well, I have a repro plastic set ready to install even though my plastics are in pretty good shape. You can have my old ones when I change them out.

That's crazy. I wondered what all those little extra plastics were in my CPR kit. Usually I'm trying to keep a game as original as possible but I don't really like that big stack of plastic there. Seems like it blocks a lot of the wall/ramp. My game isn't quite a production version so maybe it was added later? I just got done shopping it for the Denver show, with cool white frosted G.I. and the new plastics.

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Like "Go for the wall!" or "Go for the Pit"? Mine is a woman's voice...Proto 2 ROMs.

I had battery leakage issues on my main board that affected the sound. How does it look under the battery holder?

New coil sleeve to start should help. Coils rarely go bad unless the sleeve is stuck or the coil has been overheated.

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I should have the first 2 plastics. Drop target is new and the 123 is my old one but still nice. Let me fine 'em and I'll PM you.

Is yours missing or broken?

I have some plastics/parts that would help with the restore.

They actually are remaking those always broken plastics for RG anyway. You can pick them up at Marco for $15. I have a couple of spares.

I might have an extra one, are you going to TPF or do you know Martin from H2H?

Make sure the single 3rd ball is falling all the way to the edge of the trough closest to the shooter lane. For some reason on my game, without the weight of one of the other (or both) balls behind it the 3rd one will get hung up rolling down just before the spot it should eject from. You can shake the game side to side to fix it, and make sure it's level side to side.

Other than that, it could be your ball trough switch closest to the shooter lane being flaky.

Adding extra balls to the game won't help. (AFAIK) Gotta find the bad switch.

As fas as the drops, there's switches for each drop target. Middle one either has a wire broken off or just needs adjusted most likely.

Depends on the type of switch, but with drop targets it's probably a leaf switch which means just bending the metal tabs until they contact each other when the switch is closed mechanically. (by the plastic drop target gettin' dropped)

Oh, it's an opto. My duh. My RG isn't setup at the moment. I'm not sure if they have the optos set up to test in the "switch test" part of the menu. If they don't you can lift the PF up just enough and start a game, then stick a piece of paper through the opto and see if it registers. Check the ones that work to compare. If it does have the 3-bank target in the switch test, get the menu on that and then test away after removing all the pinballs.

Missing washer is normal, they're just there to hold the circuit board on.

I don't think it's an operator alert. I have a constant alert for an unused switch, but my game doesn't do this every time. I thought it was just a random system 11 power up thing but I'm not really sure.

I'm not sure if they make those? I've never seen any.

Hey the plastic over the drops is in one piece so you're like halfway home.

I think that's a tough one. Doesn't come with the CPR plastic set.

I have a lot of leftover plastics, etc. from mine if you need anything cheap and quick.

I did a single ring around 2 there, but I always try to follow the manual to stay as original as possible.

Ehh, I'm keeping that one for a spare. Marco has them though. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1006-576-19

I might have the WAR plastic, let me check. Nobody has the ball lock cover...

Sorry man, I only have this brand new one that still has the plastic on it. Would that be ok?

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I have LED's in my RG and there's no flicker. Also, haven't had a ball rejected back down the ramp since I've owned the game which is about 12 years. Neither one is normal.

Not sure when I put them in, but they're either the Nifty or Comet standard LED's. Not the non-ghosting ones. I usually buy the frosted WW or CW 100 packs and just call it a day.

Probably pitched at 6.5 or whatever is standard. It isn't super steep or anything like some people do. 5.5 sounds low, i'd crank up the rear legs a bit. That's how their designed to be set up.

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/rottendog-circuit-boards/williams-dual-16-digit-alphanumeric-display-classic-orange-dis240/

These are the least expensive and work fine.

Mine was missing that stacked piece too, and when I bought a plastic set I was like "what are these for?". I think the game looks better without it to be honest.

My RG ramp shot was good pretty much every time. I did install the wrong coil sleeve once which affected the shot.

I tried to find an old map from a shop job but couldn't. If you order a kit from gameroomguys for one, you get a map with the kit. Probably the same for most of them.

For sure, i know they aren't perfect but you'll get most of the way there. It's rubber, not rocket science.

I don't have my manual handy but is there a Pre-Driver for Q69? Could be blown as well if there is.

Grab the manual here if you don't have one. https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2006 Setting the Adjustment for "Factory Settings" will revert everything back to its original state. From there you just have to enable "Free Play" and you should be all ready to set your own high scores.

In the U.S. most like Marco Spec or Pinballlife for parts. I'm not sure who has the best deal for INTL shipping though. There are plenty of other vendors out there as well.

https://www.marcospecialties.com
https://www.pinballlife.com

Good luck and congrats!

Just play around with them. You're not going to hurt anything. I have to do the same thing and RG was my first pin I bought as well 13 years ago. You're looking to get into the "AD" menu and from there one of the outer buttons will count up when the middle button is up and down when it's down, or vice versa.

The side rails? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12359-1