I figure the new games have so many ball saves, it’s notably more forgiving than RG. Gonna try four-ballin it.

You can also change your locked balls setting too. I have mine set so it keeps the balls locked between games. This way if I have a good game I usually get multiball in one game, but if not, at least the locked balls are carried over making it more likely I will get multiball in the next game. I like this setting, but keeping it at 3 balls per game.

Anybody have any tricks for getting the diverter arm assembly apart? I need to realign the 1st diverter arm, it doesn't come out far enough causing the ball to hit the corner and reject. The 2nd diverter arm is aligned correctly and works 100%.

This service bulletin may help, if you don’t already have it: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/SS64.pdf

Hopefully picking up a Rollergames next weekend. Job number one will be getting that ramp redone and also doing the cover on the right side. If you would like to be notified when the ramps are ready to ship, sign up for a stock notification here: https://rampomatic.com/products/williams-rollergames-main-ramp?_pos=1&_sid=3e7d0e8db&_ss=r&variant=41066752770231

Pricing TBD

Count me in on the right side cover!

I have the correct coil stop, incorrectly coil, but the diverter physically does not go far enough. Have a new drive link I can try. But even with the E clip removed the shaft doesn't budge. Don't see any set screws.

Seems like there should be a way to align these?

Same here!

I ran into a similar issue and it turned out that a wire got caught under the first arm, which prevented it from extending out all the way.

Will be great to see these!

With mine, the right side cover gets so beat up because the plunger doesn't line up properly with the ball, and causes it to jump noticeably. I'd love to have a lane cover that goes back all the way to the shooter rod to be honest.

Signed up. To be clear, are you going to be doing the plastic wall ramp?

Hi all, The display recently stopped working completely and I thought I would start with replacing the ribbon first, before changing out the display to an LED. Wondering if anyone knows the part number for the ribbon. Marco has two, a 20 pin 9", and a 26 pin 27". Or maybe it's not either of those?

Anyone else experienced this (Williams 11C), and if so, what was the fix?

Thanks in advance!

Manual lists a 20 and a 26, depends which you want to replace. Pg 70: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/Williams_1990_Rollergames_Manual.pdf

Thanks! I guess I'll just do both, as they're not that expensive. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll get the LED replacement.

Have you considered checking the high voltage on the power supply board? Check the fuses first then check the voltage output. It is often cheaper to repair the board than replace the display.

The display ribbon cable uses the 26-pin. The audio ribbon cable uses the 20-pin.

Has anyone installed a white Xpin display in their RG? If so, do you have a photo of it? Thanks.

Yes, I am going to try to make the cover.
Would there be objections if I replaced the flimsy formed plastic mounting points with stainless steel pieces riveted on? The top one would be a Z shape, the bottom would attach to the inside and be mostly covered by the decal. I will not be reproducing the decals due to licensing issues, but maybe the license holder will be interested in offering them.

For those of you who know this game...there are around 85 holes in this ramp, give or take a couple. Its pretty ridiculous.

Pics are of my original pieces for reference.

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I believe the decals are already available somewhere, are they not?

I'd highly prefer a nicely done steel extension piece in place of just breaking another one built like the original.
If the ball gets a little bit of a hop from the shooter rod, it hits that cover quite hard.

-Hans

Just for the inserts.

Ahhh, that's why it's hard to fine. It's Pinball Center doing the ramp decals..... so no US customers unfortunately.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/rollergames/10148/decal-set-for-rollergames?c=0

Thank you! and agree with the additional stainless mounting points to better support.

The challenge as others have noted is finding a resource in US to reproduce decals for them.

Just a heads up, the quality from pinball center is often very bad. very. bad.

Good to know. I bought some LED's from them about 10 years ago, which I had no problems with. But since then, you can't buy from Pinball Center any longer if you live in the USA.

If there's a ramp though, I'm sure somebody will pick up the label side of the equation.

-Hans

Has anybody ever tried to remove them with freeze spray and re-attach with the 3m stuff?

My machine was in bad shape from poor storage location...YMMV. But I just tried to remove the top side vinyl ramp decals, and mine cracked into pieces when I tried to remove them. The bottom side ones came off quite easily.

The top of my magnet pole piece is deformed and needs to be ground flat. Will a Dremel with sanding wheels be sufficient for the job?

How badly deformed is it? The magnet's core/pole is adjustable.

Deformed enough that if I adjust it to the recommended 1/32" height above the playfield then part of it is almost flush:

IMG_1388 (resized).jpg

Anyone have a good hi res picture/scan/drawing of the side art? Would like to print my own.

Sneak preview...the cover will have stainless brackets riveted on since the original formed ones all break quickly. 85 holes on the main ramp...71 of them are CNC cut...thats a first for me

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Wanted to know if anyone figured this out? I found a website that shows a picture of a 'Triac Assembly Board' in a Whirlwind.
According to https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/W/Whirlwind_OPS.pdf the C-13088 is for driving the fan topper on top of the cabinet. Was a similar functionality planned for Rollergames, then dropped? Anyone come across this board inside their cabinet? Maybe a prototype cab?

The attached picture (with boards side by side) depicts: 'old' style [left]; 'new' style [right]

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/sy11tb1.html

SY11-TB1
System 11 Triac Board

OEM P/N #
A-13088 <-(WPC System (Fliptronic) Creature From the Black Lagoon, Hot Shots, Basketball & The Getaway HSII)
C-13088 <-(Whirlwind, Rollergames claims it uses one of these)

PCB #
5768-12520-00
sy11tb1_02a (resized).jpgsy11tb1_03a (resized).jpg

I think they are referring to the high current board (it looks similar to Triac) for Rollergames, which is for the deep freeze magnet. There is no fuse on the board itself, but there is a fuse clip mounted near it underneath the playfield. It's buried behind a bunch of wires, so it's very easy to overlook.

Anyone know of a source for the five "S K A T E" standup target decals?

You mean the inserts? Targets don't have decals.

I think someone made some up years ago when the mod makers all jumped on making stickers to go on standups (most of which fall off or get damaged if you actually play your games.) - I know someone made some drop stickers themselves which were just the rollerskate itself.

Time to get creative maybe. Print on thin sticker stock and cover with mylar, all with a hole punched in the center so the rivet can stick through.

I looked through the photo gallery in this thread thinking I saw it there but it must have been somewhere else.

i looked thru the thread and could not find any decal images for the skate standup targets. They must have been available at some point as the last photo of post #975 by ElectricLou shows them on his game. If i can find a decent image, i can fiddle with them to make stickers i usually make them with Planet label paper and cover with mylar or laminate film. They seem to hold up pretty well in home use.

Looks fantastic!!!

Ramp cover order placed today, thanks for making these JodyG !

Thank you! Here is what the ramp cover hardware looks like. You can buy just the hardware, or a new cover with hardware pre-installed.

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Does anyone have a set of ramp stickers for sale?

Similar to the set sold on pinball.center, but without the ball-lock plastic sticker & shooter lane sticker
https://www.pinball.center/de/shop/flipperspezifisch/rollergames/10148/decal-set-fuer-rollergames?c=0

Was looking to populate the Rollergames Main Ramp R-13510 reproduction plastic made by JodyG

Wow, that looks spectacular. And complicated!

Ditto.

Has anybody prototype game and can take picture about the correct back box flasher wirings?

The filth before and the beauty after disassembly and cleaning, but uh, we have a problem:

IMG_1601 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1618 (resized).jpeg

Oh well, I wanted to redo those solder points on the light socket leads anyway.

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you rock !

Hi. I am helping a friend with his Rollergames I looking for information on how long the magnet should hold the ball.

I hear "don't Flip....Flip" and then a couple of seconds later, the magnet releases.

Questions
1. Is that normal, or should it release when we hear "Flip"
2. Is there an adjustment to have it release sooner?

Normal. Gives you a couple of ticks to hit the flipper. Contrary to many beliefs system 11 is not a real time system. It's a close enough system so there's some leeway in all things that depend on timing.

Regarding the VUK - Is there a spring directly below the ball holder that helps hold it up off of the switch until a ball weights it down, or does the fork of the switch provide the only support? The assembly diagram doesn't show a spring in this position. I took mine apart, cleaned it, and reassembled but it doesn't spring up like I would expect. I admit that I didn't thoroughly inspect and test it before disassembling.

What you describe is correct function, magnet catches and holds the ball, if you don’t flip it releases it.