Not sure when I put them in, but they're either the Nifty or Comet standard LED's. Not the non-ghosting ones. I usually buy the frosted WW or CW 100 packs and just call it a day.

Probably pitched at 6.5 or whatever is standard. It isn't super steep or anything like some people do. 5.5 sounds low, i'd crank up the rear legs a bit. That's how their designed to be set up.

I put standard Comet 2SMD warm white for my GI and have no flickering at all for what it’s worth. Also running regular comet warm white frosted wedges for inserts with no ghosting.

Fixed the dim GI issue. Cold solder on the GI relay board

I started a thread before I saw this maybe someone here could help. I’m replacing my display, as it’s starting to flicker, with a led one. I’ve found many for $199 to $352 but idk what the differences are can anyone help me?

What are you looking for? A traditional orange type display? Or do you want one with a certain color?

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/rottendog-circuit-boards/williams-dual-16-digit-alphanumeric-display-classic-orange-dis240/

These are the least expensive and work fine.

Yea I’m not really looking for a specific color but I am looking to change to LED. It just makes it easier on the board and most likely will never have to be replaced again. Thank you @leeb18509.

I recent bought 2 PinScore displays for my machines and they work great.

Does anyone on here have or know of anyone having the long plastic that goes down the right side of the machine over the ball lock?

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Sorry, no help, but every game I’ve seen has damage to that plastic at the screw holes near the shooter (there isn’t even a photo of an unbroken one in the machine DB here, or on IPDB). It isn’t in the CPR kit, as it’s a cover, not a plastic. I plan to 3D print a sleeve to patch up the screw hole end of mine.

That piece really suffers from a misaligned shooter rod. My shooter rod is just slightly above center when it hits the ball, and it essentially smacks the ball right into the plastic on every launch.

Has anyone started sudden death and then started multiball? I didn't think that was possible, the modes seem to be mutually exclusive.

Also anyone ever see on system 11 games where the wire colors would show up on the displays? (Like WPC games). Seems like the text for it exists in the roms.

All the time!

I'll have to see if I can trigger it again, I assume you don't get the jackpot in that mode until sudden death times out?

Maybe it's just the display priority with sudden death being the top priority. I just hadn't done it but did it this morning.

No, both are awarded with the jackpot being acknowledged music wise and Sudden Death million being acknowledged by sound effect.

Joined the club today!

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Saw that one listed, looks like a nicely done machine.

Upper diverter troubleshooting. I have the updated assembly that has the improved parts, but it recently started getting stuck open most of the time. I think my outer spring may be stretched too much and needs to be replaced. I need to run a coil test to see if that diverter coil is working properly, but someone else on this thread mentioned cleaning the coil. It does seem a bit sticky when moving it manually.
1) How would I clean the coil to smooth out the operation?
2) Where can I get this spring?
https://imgproxy.pinside.com/gtTwwcG93D9XXiWKdYRAGkaz6rEaMyhSWMNbZ5r0UMA/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2QvYjQvMGUvZGI0MGUwYjNkMTVkYmEyZDE5NjE3YmFmM2M2MDdhYzUwNjM0YWYyNS5qcGc

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clean all moving parts. remove the clips and clean it there. Remove the coil and clean the coil sleeve, or better yet, replace it.

have a look at the service bulletin:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/SS64.pdf
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2006/RG_DIVERT_SPRING.pdf

Agreed. Most issues like this can be fixed by cleaning, which is best done with the assembly completely removed and disassembled. You can leave the wires soldered to the coil and let it dangle. Take lot's of pictures as you go, there is no such thing as too many. If you are replacing the coil then leave the old one soldered in until you have the new one ready to go, then transfer the wires over one at a time, which takes the guess work out of which wire goes to which lug relative to the diode orientation (if present).

Don't lubricate anything! That will only attract dirt and gum it up faster.

CAUTION - cleaning one mech and experiencing how much better it works improves self confidence, which can lead to scope creep and an entire machine deep cleaning!

Ran into the same exact problem last year and replacing the spring fixed it. I bought this spring from Marcos and it works great.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-320#complimentary

Thanks all for the diverter advice. I replaced the spring, cleaned the coil and pivot points (and put a couple drops of silicone lube up there), and everything is working great now. Smooth and snappy. Each little job I tackle with the help of people here gives me a little more knowledge of how these games operate, and the confidence to do the work myself.

Fixing problems as they come up and not letting them add up, I think, is key to continued enjoyment of the game.

Can I join too? Here is my new machine

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What did you do with the magnet? Epoxy fill, or something?

That one is nice. I really hope Santa finally brings me a Rollergames this year.

Someone knows where I have to solder the red wire from the middle micro switch of the coindoor. It is soldered to the back last pin of the micro switch (if you watch from the back on the coindoor). The other side of the wire is loose. Can someone help?

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Is this for a European coin door?

Shogun00 : Yes it is Its for the old good money from germany, called "Demark" (DM)

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The knocker in my game was removed and I'd like to replace it. Marco has two Williams knockers. The one specified for Rollergames is unassembled and doesn't include the wiring connector. That's this one:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10686-1

I don't see what the difference is in this assembled one, however, that does include the connector. It lists some compatible Williams machines, but not Rollergames. Will this one work?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10686-2

The stock coil is: AE-23-800

To the first part you listed, add this cable: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-11835

Or, just but this one and save some $: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-knocker-assembly-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-pinball-machines.html

Here’s a photo of my stock one in Rollergames:

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Have any indie bands ever covered this theme song?

Can someone make an shot of the backdoor, where I can see where the wires from the middle microswitch are goin to? Especially the wire of the rearmost contact of the middle microswitch........

Are you looking for a photo of the light panel behind the translite, or the coin door? I’m not understanding “backdoor”.

You might want to post this over on the Tech board, since you just need to see the wiring of a System 11 European coin door.

All System 11 coin doors are wired the same way, so it doesn't have to be Rollergames.

What is typical premium placed on a Diamond plated Rollergames vs a standard in similar condition? Rough idea?

$100-$200, based on the archive. Great pin, but not one where collectors go crazy for variants.

Appreciate it, thank you!

The key is that the playfields likely will not be in similar condition. The diamond plate example will almost certainly show much less wear so that particular pin is going to bring more money than an example with lots of playfield wear.

Can someone post a pic or description of which flashers were the missing ones? I see some pics in the gallery of added flashers, but mine came with the original flashers with sockets, etc. I was just wondering which were the missing/removed ones.

There were 15 flashers in the back box on prototype games, along with two extra on the playfield. Here is a photo of my standard game- no flashers in the back box.

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oh wow, I didn't realize there were *NO* flashers on the normal production games. I thought there were at least SOME in there. That answers my next follow up which was to figure out which routines activated the extra flashers. Looks like they left all the routines in to activate them as they all fire in my game at various times.

Decided to join the club

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Welcome aboard!

I guess I got me one of them fancy prototype games. Mine has diamond plate as well. What were the prototype games made for?

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Balls per play: what’s your game set at? The card on my game says 3 balls per play, and that’s what I have it set to.

I wonder, though, if it would be more fun to make it a 4-ball game. It can be pretty unforgiving sometimes on that left drain and I rarely get past 15,000,000. Hi score is 26,000,000.

Are the SKATE targets drop targets? If yes, then it's a prototype. If not then it's an early 1st production unit.

The prototypes are test units made before the actual production run.

Mine is set at 3, but that's because of nostalgia reasons. There is no 4-ball option. Only 3-ball and 5-ball options are available. Go ahead and give it a go and see if you like the 5-ball option.

Williams games let you select anywhere from one through nine balls.

I definitely have an early production game

You're right! I was confusing it with Robocop and Rollergames' "Install 5-Ball Rule" option.