I’m in finally! More of a project than I originally anticipated, but solid bones to it. Short term will be a thorough shop and refresh, long term will be a full restore. So this thread is going to get some activity going as I go through it.

I have a lot of leftover plastics, etc. from mine if you need anything cheap and quick.

I may just hit you up on that. Only one I know at the moment that's broken is the one right above the drop targets. But I haven't torn anything down yet.

Does anyone have a video of the 5 bank proto drop play? Is it still just hit the 5 targets down awards the williams letter and lights the magnet with the same sound effects etc and once you get them all down they just reset, or does it do something differently?

I'm picking one up this week and am looking forward to tearing it apart, cleaning it, fixing it, then playing it!

That upper ramp assembly is kind of a beast. Man when I pulled mine apart it was just so dirty. It was like having a new ramp when I cleaned it and put it back together.

chris

I realised that I've never posted in this thread and I've own my Rollergames since 2018. Doh!

Hi everyone!

Rollergames was the pinball machine, that got me into pinball back in 1990. It's also the first pinball machine that I've ever bought.

PS: No! My machine is not for sale.

Thanks, ChrisS. I've been through this rodeo before - I have broken down, cleaned, and reassembled a Demolition Man , Judge Dredd , and am just finishing up a Baywatch , so I've been through some ramps and wireforms. My Google Photos account would show you that I'm not afraid to take a lot of pictures (but it's never enough)!

Rollergames looks to have plenty of stacked up plastic pieces and posts so I'm looking forward to it!

The big problem I'm having at the moment is so much conflicting info on rubbers, and a few missing on mine. I'm just going to have to do a best guess and hope I get it right. Assuming it's correct I'll start posting up my spreadsheets with sizes/locations. Same with LED's

Leeb - Looks like the drop target plastic is the only one I actually need if you can part with one. Some minor things on a few others but nothing worth replacing at the moment. That one is properly busted.

Which rubbers?

As one example, I’ve seen 2-3 different ways to do this area. The manual shows a larger ring between two of the red posts, mine had them individually ringed.

I also can’t find enough grommets to match the number listed in the manual, I think a couple may have been behind drop targets in the proto version.

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I did a single ring around 2 there, but I always try to follow the manual to stay as original as possible.

Picked up a Rollergames last night! It has some battery leakage that looks to be isolated to the holder, the center VUK doesn't fire, and two balls get served into the shooter lane. the decals are ripped around one leg and rippled around another but otherwise this looks to be a very clean example. The previous owner had it for at least 25 years and it doesn't look to have spent much if any time being operated. Woohoo! Looking forward to cleaning it up and enjoying it!

Ehh, I'm keeping that one for a spare. Marco has them though. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1006-576-19

No worries, I did just order one from Marco, along with a few other things I needed. New translight arrived today, so I finally got around to ordering the glass and trim for it.

Nearly everything else is arriving Monday on the first wave of parts. Mainly the LED's and rubbers. (Comet and Titan). A lot of cleaning to do though. Probably a couple of weeks till I have it together again.

Enjoy your weeks of solitude while getting it back up and running, because it will not be long before that damn song leaves your head in a pool of earworm shit as you find yourself humming "Rock - Rock - Rock and Roller Games, Rockin' and Rollin' Rock and Roller Games"

My brother and I owned one back in the 90's and it was sacrificed to the pinball gods to build a homebrew prototype for a 911 themed pin we hoped to try and manufacture. That was about 6 months before Rescue 911 came out and torpedoed the idea, complete with helicopter. We eventually disassembled it and the cabinet became my virtual pin cabinet. On a really quiet night, when the breeze is just right, I can still hear that damn song coming from the game room.

I don't just want my rock and roller games ... I love my rock and roller games. Devastating! Outrageous! Unbelievable!

D.C. Getschal wins again!

Ok, for the win...

First wave of rubbers are installed, I was really close on the first try, but I needed to swap a few around as I over-sized in a couple locations. My ring list on the Titan website is updated to reflect what I'm actually using. Ended up pretty far off from the list in the manual.

Cliffy's are ordered as well. Keep an eye out for an enlarged set hitting the market shortly. He's adding a protector for the drop target plastic, around the magnet on the playfield, enhanced flipper guides, shooter lane, and outhole drain.

-Hans

Looking for the long WAR plastic and a ball lock cover. Thanks!!

I might have the WAR plastic, let me check. Nobody has the ball lock cover...

Never hurts to try Pinball Resource, they've had a few things that I thought were unobtanium.

Sweet. Let me know

Still a few cosmetics to do, need to swap the insert LED’s in, and a few tweaks needed to how the ball travels.

But after tearing off everything, a deep waxing and cleaning, and some fresh rubbers….. we’re talking classic Ritchie play. A brutally fast thrasher. Everything I’d hoped for in how it plays.

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I agree, this is Ritchie magic as far as play is concerned. It shoots a lot like HS or HSII or F-14 to me... the theme will put you into an insane asylum, but the play is worth it.

It’s shockingly similar to STTNG in many ways. Particularly that left orbit, right flipper, left ramp combo.

Definitely similar to High Speed that's for sure. Quite a few similarities.

Sorry man, I only have this brand new one that still has the plastic on it. Would that be ok?

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Yes of course. I’ll message you

Had an issue with many solenoids not working - turned out to be fuse F4 (7a SB). Replaced it and went through the solenoid test. It worked great for a cycle or so then the fuse blew and I smelled something. Pulled the glass and there was some smoke. Raised the playfield and WHOOSH it was like Cheech opening the door! Turns out it was the magnet and sure enough the transistor tests as shorted. Time for some bench work...

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My question is - how should the magnet post be adjusted in relation to the playfield? This one is recessed about 1mm. Seems to me that it should be as flush as possible?

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There was a manual addendum that says, per the factory, the magnet should be 1/32" above the playfield

Thanks. I grabbed that addendum on IPDB.

Next question - This magnet coil is reading less than 1 ohm, so that means it's shorted/bad and needs replacement. Correct?

Magnet coil should read about 7 ohms

The source of all the smoke - my Deep Freeze Magnet coil. Crispy! Poor little Q79 gave it all it had. This is a $35 coil!

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I think Q79 gave up the fight long before the coil did. Lol.

Down to two non-working spots left. Flasher 3 is dead, haven’t started diagnosing it yet, dreading taking the ramp off. Knocker is also silent…. Probably because it’s missing. Otherwise just need to do some cabinet bondo before bringing it into the game room.

Here’s my recent pickup. It came with: a full set of CPR plastics, flipper rebuild kits, new Mylar, drop targets. To that I added: Titan rubbers, Comet frosted 2SMDs for the GI (warm for the back box, sunlight for the rest), PinStadium Neos (so perfect for this game, with its already over the top lighting), Alpine speaker upgrade, 10” Polk sub (leftover from an old home theater setup… props to EJS for suggesting adding a sub, it works awesome).

Cleaning everything up, replacing the Mylar, installing all the new parts, fixing up the beat up cab corners, and rebuilding the GI connectors was a ton of work, but I think the end product was so worth it!

A5F7F055-A28C-49E1-B74E-25C1D155DB6E (resized).jpegD4204DC6-86DB-441B-B86D-19613FA6ADF8 (resized).jpegI have the PinStadiums cycle blue/red… love how the blue makes the green in the playfield fluoresce

Pin Stadium vid: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

I’m having an issue with my ramp diverter. When I originally bought my game they had a flipper wedged I. Then back so it would go all the way around the ramp and always divert to the ball lock lane. It worked so I just left it. I recently tore the game apart and there wasn’t a coil or diverter rod in the game. I figured it’s all apart so let’s rebuild the diverter. Received all new parts, new coil, all that stuff and plugged it in. Coil locked and immediately melted. Replaced the TIP and pr-driver transistors and another coil. Coil didn’t lock anymore but also does not work. Also relaxes the big transistor on the aux board. Still can’t get any action on the diverter. I’m kinda stuck. Anyone have any more recommendations?

Might be the PIA has been damaged too. Pretty sure it's U41 for the ramp diverter.

I'm in the process of getting new speakers for my Rollergames and I have a quick question.

What ohm type are your speakers?

It says 4 ohms in the manual, but the stock speakers in mine are 8 ohms.

Mine had 8ohm, too, but I replaced with 4ohm. I used this set, as the two 6” speakers fit in the cab and the speaker panel, and one tweeter fit perfectly in the gutted plastic of the stock tweeter, using the crossover that comes in the kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AVSHBUC

I also used a spare Polk 10” powered sub I already had, which is a great improvement for Rollergames.

I ended up unplugging the 6” in the speaker panel, and the games sounds really good with the bass and mids coming from below and the highs coming from the speaker panel. I like how a hint of the speakers shows in the panel, as it gives a modern look.

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Thank you so much. Just what I was looking for.

Welp I figured out the diverter. Apparently there is a fuse under the PF. It was bad. I didn’t know it was even there because it was covered by the wire harness. The only issues I have left now are flickering GI, a weak upper flipper after rebuild, and the first diverter rejects the ball and sends it back down the ramp every once in a while

1. Are you using LEDs for the GI? If so, is the flickering occurring only when a solenoid is firing?

If yes to both, then that's normal. The two GI rely boards are designed for incandescent bulbs. You will need to get modern rely boards that work with LED lights to get rid of the flicker.

2. I would check the connectors on the high current board.

3. Also normal! My Rollergames and the one I used to play at the arcade both do the same thing. Sometimes the diverter just acts like a bat and connects with the ball perfectly.

I have LED's in my RG and there's no flicker. Also, haven't had a ball rejected back down the ramp since I've owned the game which is about 12 years. Neither one is normal.

Full LED in my RG and no flicker in any bulbs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/139#post-6377027

I used standard Comet frosted LEDs (not the non-ghosting ones).

It’s not led flicker it’s like loss of power or something. It dims down but with solid old activation it will go back to full power. I’m thinking bad ground or connector

In that case, I’d first look at J6 on the backbox interconnect board. I reflowed the pins and rebuilt the connector with molex/trifurcon and it cleared up all my GI gremlins.

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Interesting! What brand of LEDs are you using? Are you using a LED OCD rely board?
GI flicker is a know a problem with William's multi-level dimming GI relys. There's quite a few threads on this board on it. Personally, I don't notice the flicker much unless I look at the back box while pressing the flipper buttons.

As for the ramp, what incline is your machine set to? I have mine set at floor level (5.5 degrees), so perhaps I need to re-level my machine.

This flickering shouldn’t be an issue on Rollergames, as it doesn’t have multi-level dimming, it’s just two simple on/off relays (solenoids 10 &11). For comparison, here are the diagrams for the GI in Rollergames, and the High/Low switching GI diagram for White Water
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