hey
i have a missing ball popper assembly d-11335-2
anyone know where to find one

also cant find a-11721

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/selling-pinball-parts

Hey all.

Apologies for a long post from a total noob, but I’m at my wits’ end and desperate to get back to kicking butt.

I got Rollergames back in April as a first machine and love it. It ran pretty well for the first few months. Had some issues with the ball getting stuck in the pit, but my wife adjusted the wireform a bit and it was better. Upper right flipper would fail to fire on occasion, but wasn't a huge deal.

About a month ago, however, the WAR targets failed to pop back up. Then I noticed the ball popper had stopped working. I took a look at the Aux Driver board and, sure enough, fuse F4 had blown. The guy we bought it from had stuck a 7A fuse in there, which I guess is a reasonable thing to do, given the manual lists it that way in a couple places, though the schematic shows it as a 2.5A. I noticed later that F7 had also blown.

I replaced the fuses and a bunch of others on the board that looked fine but weren’t buzzing when I applied my DMM, but F4 still blows instantly whenever I turn the game on. Since it had worked for a few months with a 7A in there, I decided to try a 5A to see what happened. That blew instantly, and took F7 with it. I’ve since blown a bunch of F4s, but as long as I don’t go above a 2.5A, F7 doesn’t blow.

At this point, I’ve checked the resistance across all the solenoids on the VIO/YEL and YEL/VIO lines multiple times and they seem fine (Sols 04A, 06A, 07A, 13, 14, 18, 20 and 22). I pulled the Aux Power Driver and checked all of its transistors, which were fine. I pulled the CPU board and checked all the driver and pre-driver transistors for the solenoids. Some of the values I was reading on the drivers seemed a little high (like .8 or .9), but that didn’t seem too too crazy (though I’m super new at this, so correct me if that’s high enough to indicate bad transistors). I pulled 5P12 off and turned things on, and the F4 didn’t blow, which some threads I’ve come across indicate this probably means it’s not a board issue anyway (though I’ve also read that this is an unreliable test).

I’ve traced the VIO-YEL and YEL-VIO wires all around underneath the playfield, and haven’t found anything that looks odd. I thought I’d hit upon something when I saw that the VIO-YEL wire was missing from 2J8-3, but reading here I gather that’s just an idiosyncrasy with how the high voltage is run in Rollergames.

The under-playfield fuse has never blown. I tried pulling it once and turning the machine on, thinking this would open the loop and stop the current flowing to F4, but F4 blew immediately anyway (for whatever that’s worth).

So I’m unsure where to look next. My thought was to unsolder all the coils involved and start re-adding them one at a time until the fuse blows, but with my prediction about the effect of removing the under-playfield fuse being wrong, I’m not feeling particularly confident about my understanding of the playfield wiring.

Any help is appreciated. And if someone wants to explain why 2J8-3 is empty, I’m super curious.

Thanks,
Rob

You are on the right track, its a coil issue for sure. its exceptionally rare for a coil to fail, but the most common cause when they do, its a shorted driver transistor, and since you ruled that out....
If a coil is bad, it will be seized and or melted somewhere. Make sure all your diodes are good and not installed backward. Better yet, go through all the coils on the circuit, carefully inspect each coil, make sure the plunger has full and free travel and replace every diode. You cant own a pinball machine and not have spare diodes on-hand at all times! As far as your fuses, use the factory rated ones in each location and only use slo-blo's!

Thanks for the reply.

I went back and double checked all the coils in the path and got good resistance readings from all. Even double checked the magnet coil, though if I understand properly, I'd ruled that out by pulling it connector under the playfield where it grabs some juice from the VIO-YEL line and still had the fuse blow.

Diodes I'd failed to properly check before. I found 3 coil diodes giving me positive readings on the DMM when they shouldn't have, though I wasn't snipping an end from the board so they may be false positives. They were for Sols 1A, 2A and 8A, none of which seem related to the fuse that keeps blowing. I tried testing some of the smaller diodes, though, and found quite a few giving similar bad readings. Quite possibly a number of false positives in there as well, but a bunch were leading back from some of the special solenoids that are misbehaving. Either way, looks like I'm about to get a bit of practice replacing diodes on the Aux board.

I've got a bunch of smaller diodes lying around from other electronics projects, but none of the 1N4004s, so it's time to go shopping.

Oops....just looked at the manual....I meant MR501s, not 1N4004s

tldr; Table is working again except for the magnet. However, I messed up big time and now have a truly terrifyingly hacked aux driver board. If there is a "Wall Of Shame" thread somewhere, I really need to post a few pictures.

Diodes arrived Saturday, so I pulled the Aux Driver board and re-checked all the diodes. No surprise, I got much more reasonable readings once the board was out of the machine. D12 and D23 both looked bad, which made me suspect a faulty relay. I changed both diodes and the relay. I didn't have the right tools for desoldering a relay, but decided to press forward anyway. This was a horrible decision and I managed to destroy three of the traces leading away from the relay. Not really understanding that at the time, I put the aux board back in to find that all the C-side solenoids that had been working no longer did.

Figuring I had nothing to lose, I followed the traces and soldered 3 wires into the back of the board, circumventing the damage. This fixed the C-side solenoids, so I was basically back where I started, only with an Aux Driver board that I should probably replace at some point.

I've spent the past few days poking around with a DMM, checking molex connectors, tracing and retracing the VIO-YEL wire, finding nothing obviously wrong. Finally, it occurred to me to take out the under-playfield fuse and check the resistance to ground on both sides. The side towards all the solenoids suddenly showed huge resistance, while the side towards the backbox was still down around 2 ohms. First thing up that path was the little board with a transistor that is shared with the wires leading to the magnet. I pulled the connector holding the VIO-YEL line from this board. Wouldn't you know it, I suddenly had huge resistance on that side of the fuse.

So I left that connector unplugged, replaced the under-playfield fuse, turned the table on, ran a solenoid test and everything is working beautifully (aside from the disconnected magnet).

Overall, I'm embarrassed but thrilled. I've learned more about System 11 machines in the past 6 weeks than I can say and am riding a rush of post-fix adrenaline that I'm sure many of you are familiar with.

Now on to adjusting the flipper I replaced a couple months ago and figuring out why my upper right flipper is acting janky. Oh, and replacing an under-playfield transistor, of course.

I have bare boards if you're interested. The board is a reproduction that also changes the circuit to prevent LED flashers from flashing when the flippers are engaged. I can also build (populate / assemble) a board for you if you want but it sounds like you're a DIYer.

If you want an even better adrenaline rush then build a bare board, stick it in a machine and watch it work.

So I pulled the High Current Driver assembly and applied the DMM. I expected a shorted diode or bad transistor, but I'm getting 0.0 readings on every single component. Even the resistor is reading at ~0.0 ohms. So I'll be rebuilding the thing (though not until my desoldering gun arrives...lesson learned).

For some reason, the schematic in the manual shows no values. From the banding, I think the resistor is 220 ohms, but I'm hoping someone can confirm this. I don't exactly trust this assembly right now.

Does anyone know where I can find a set of cabinet decals here in the United States? I know there are sets available on Ebay, but I have ordered from classic arcades before, and have the honor of being banned from buy from him again because I dared to return something.

Hey guys!!!
New member here!
Pristine exemple!!!

I have a month to make it new with 1-2 custom mods. Hope you’ll like it.
1...2....3....Go!

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Hey the plastic over the drops is in one piece so you're like halfway home.

Slowly but surely...
Im also working on a spinning « disco » roller skate lighted by a strong Spotlight (« à la » Deadpool)
Fun project!
Lou

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https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/105690

5-bank opto board for prototype Rollgergames pins for sale.

Im still working on my Rollergames spécial « flood» edition. It’s now the Limited « Blood edition » This game is tough

(Working the shooter lane should ALWAYS be known by buyer and seller )

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Looking for the plastic that covers the shooter lane and ball lock. Anyone happen to have any leads for one? Thanks

I think that's a tough one. Doesn't come with the CPR plastic set.

Hi - I'm finishing up a rollergames project and had a quick question regarding the flashers. are the back playfield flashers supposed to flash when the flippers are pressed? It only seems to do it during game play so thats what i'm guessing is going on. It seems odd, but know other companies have sound effects when the flippers are active. - Edit i discovered its a known issue if you use LEDs in the flashers. Back to incandescent flashers

Hello. Seems like a right of passage to restore a Rollergames around here. I started mine about 6 years ago and finally am in the process of putting it back together. Life gets in the way as they say.

Other than shorting a dangling solenoid wire to a lamp row and blowing a tip everything else has gone well. Luckily I replaces a tip on my black knight so I knew what was going on there.

That said I did not take enough pictures of the top of the play field when I stripped it and I cannot figure out the correct order for the hex posts that hold up the wall plastic at the very back of the play field.

I have 5 hex posts 1 black which is the longest, two “brass” coloured ones which are shorter than the black and two silver which are shorter than the “brass”. I am hoping someone has a picture of these as I cannot figure out the proper order for the wall to sit properly.

Additionally one of the long silver hex posts that sit on the side rails is angled. I am not sure which side or direction is should face (or if it should be angled at all).

Any help would be appreciated. I will have some before and after pics added here soon as I am really happy with how this turned out. I could not have done it without the generous people posting here on pinside.

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RollerGames is the game that taught me (learned the hard way) to take a pre-removal picture of each and every post with a tape measure next to the post. Hope someone has better pictures than what's in my archive.

I looked back through the gallery again and post #127 by blowback1976 has a picture that shows the posts if you zoom in. Looks like black, brass, brass, silver, silver from left to right looking towards the backbox. The tilted long hex post looks like it leans towards the back not the front of the playfield as well.

does the magnet coil on rollergames have a diode

Mine is 95% done. I added some discoball spotlights, a turning rollerskate in the back, some custom target decals, clearcoat, chrome, etc...
Great game!

No diode on magnet

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Thanks for checking
Mine didn’t either but wanted to make aure

Don’t be shy to Ask. I have tons of pictures and everything is fresh in memory!
Have fun
Lou

Where did you get the Disco Ball?

Thanks
Greg

6 weeks later, Im done. This was a rough one but really happy of how it looks.

I added 3 disco spotlights (Amazon xmas tree décorations. In Styro so a bit of DIY to add the spot/led..:they came in pack ofand the spinning rollerskate. I tied this one on the coindoor with a speed régulator.

Fun project but I’ll need a couple years before earing the song again

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Excellent work sir, some of the additions are a bit over the top for my taste, but you certainly do fantastic work!

Thanks Onlyest.
My middle name is overkill

Hi. I'm a first-time owner, and this is the game I got. It's in pretty good shape and plays nice, but there are some things to fix; mostly routine stuff, and adding the the Cliffy ramp protector, as the ramp is chipped as usual. Also, a couple of the team rectangle lights on the play field are sunken a bit and have a small ridge (the ones above and below Mug Root Beer). Doesn't seem to affect the ball much, but I think they could. How is this repaired?

It took a year and a half, but I got around to finishing a rules page...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/rollergames/rules/rules.html

Dang, that is comprehensive! I'm going to have to block out some time on my calendar to read that.

The knocker in my game was removed by the previous owner. Is there any reason for not replacing it, like it is known to blow fuses or something? I hate not having that glorious knock when scoring a free game or extra ball.

Can I put any Williams knocker in there?

Not uncommon, lots of people are dumb and they completely remove it instead of simply disconnecting it. There may be an issue with your P/D board that caused someone to remove it, or maybe they were just freaked out by the sound. If you had the complete assembly from another game, it should work, you just may have to make new screw holes to mount it.

Hi all, I’m new to the club! I am missing the plastic that goes over the shooter lane (looks like other folks here are without one as well), and it’s unfortunately not part of the complete plastics set, so replacements are scarce. Anyone have a spare they can sell?

There's a YouTube channel that's been sporadically posting the remastered episodes. They're up to #7 so far...

https://www.youtube.com/c/RollerStars/videos

Hi all
I am making spinner decals for Bally/Williams stuff that have these holographic decals - many games from the 80's and 90's. In general they are $2.50 shipped in the US for a pair and $4.00 shipped international for a pair. Shipping stays the same if you buy more.

PM me if interested.
Dan

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Seriously, who's leg do you have to hump to find one of these for sale these days?

Steve Richie's

SO, asking for a 'friend'........

Anybody got a spare translight assembly, for a game that may be missing completely?
Also, anybody want to trade their yellow wireform for a chrome one?

-Hans

What part of "translight assembly" are you referring to? The glass and lift channel/side/top?

Yep, the whole thing. Glass, trim, lift channel, and translight. I know I can piece together, but I’d rather give money to a pinside than a random eBay seller.

Oops. Double post

Ok, got it... I have a backbox inner door panel (wired) and the speaker panel plexiglass artwork for RG, but not the translite assembly, my brother still has the translite possibly, but it is buried in his garage if it is. Sorry I couldn't help.

With or without the flashers on the lamp panel?

-Hans

Without.

Worth a shot, but I'll have one of those soon with the rest of the game.

Just to make it a fun post #1000 in this thread.....

Just multiple posts from earlier this year, including just a couple weeks ago, on the CPR facebook page. They're asking for a donor playfield, has to be extremely nice with no touchups.

That's promising for sure! Unfortunately, it's also nothing I can help with. Anybody got a donor?

-Hans