Thanks a lot guys! I can’t wait to finally get my game up with the cliffs ramp protector.

Pic of the used speaker panel plexi... pm me if you need this. It's available and cheap.

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I've joined the RG club.
ok condition, most of the circular inserts had dropped and the triangular inserts have risen

I find JeFFZ's website useful in the ramp repair,
I have been a little afraid what's under the blue tape stuff on my ramp as it has a lot of flex

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I just purchased a Rollergames. The upper GI did not work I found a several jumper wires not on the schematic on the connector to the relay board on Backboard. The relay board was burnt pretty bad along with the connector. I also found jumpers on the connector to the distribution board. Still finding my way around the machine. Going to rewire according to the original schematic. Any advice would be appreciated or a picture of a good relay wired properly

Thanks
Greg

rollergames.pdf

sava here you go...

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Thanks that really helps, ordered a new molex connector today.

Greg

Long shot here.......Does anyone have an extra set of the Williams speaker panel logos they would be willing to sell me? I have scoured EBay for the last year with no success.

You mean like this post above?!? Or am I missing something?

My ramp was just bare metal so I got it painted up at work today. Turned out more gold than I hoped. Not sure if I like it yet.
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I have been tearing down my newly acquired roller games. I s there any way to remove ramps and plastics on the
rear of playfield without taking the playfield completely out of the cabinet?

Thanks
Greg

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rock-rock-rockin-rollergames-club/page/18#post-5249417

Brilliant. You should sell those.

So I bought this Rollergames over 3 years ago, in pieces, and suddenly find myself with enough time to reassemble it. It's missing a few parts and I don't have pics so wondering if someone could help with the following items...

Does anyone know the part number for this post? Finally found on Marco... "stud plate" A-17838-1 and OUT OF STOCK. So infuriating.
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Does anyone know where these plastics go?
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Here are some pictures I had from my tear down

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The big piece on the right side of your photo goes on the top left of the playfield under the WAR plastic

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Perfect, thanks! Now to figure out how to put this game back together when you can't buy the stud plates.

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If needed I have my tear down pics from my RG shop-out. PM me your e-mail if you want the pics. Also I may have a couple of those "stud plates", but what I would have are "thread plates" with #8 threads IIRC. You might need to locktite in a #8 stud or something to use them.

Anyone have a recommended powdercoater that could redo my habitrails? They’re pretty flaked out and might as well restore them along with everything else.

Pinballplating has them for quick exchange

http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/williams-roller-games-wireform-set

I have game 009 and mine are all chrome thoughts if I should do this to a proto

Interesting... mine's a diamond plate so probably early production and I have blue and red in powder coat and the yellow cross ramp is chrome.

I also got serial number stamps and bank drop target and different art!

If you want to retain the value, I would say absolutely not!

DP games are early production, and are supposed to have the yellow "The Pit" wireform, but many got replaced over the years because they look like shit when the paint starts flaking off, not to mention all the bits of yellow paint all over the playfield... The ball blasts through that wireform with way too much force for the paint to withstand... That and the higher mfg cost prompted the change to nickel plating in the later full-production release.

sold me on leaving them

My Diamond Plate is the same, blue and red on the sides and the others in chrome.

If they really need to be re-plated, you can just send them to pinball plating to be redone.

My magnet doesn’t work and trying to troubleshoot I found the blue/black wire for it at driver board 1J19-9 is broken off (down the bundle by the GI connector at the interconnect board) but I can’t find another end for it anywhere. According to the manual, I should have a blue/black wire connected at the auxiliary driver board J3-1 but there's nothing there.

The only photo I have of this board (old shop out pics graciously provided by another pinsider) has that connector hiding in a shadow. Could someone snap a solid pic of the top left of the aux board and share? Pic of my broken wire attached... I clipped an alligator to it so it would be easy to see.
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Hey Jay I was about to post pics of my interconnect board asking for suggestions and tips but in preparing I think I figured out your problem too. From what I can see using the manual and my own game. The way the magnet is connected to the playfield in this game is unusual from how system 11 normally is. By that I mean it not only skips going through the aux board but it also skips going through the interconnect board entirely. You see that connector in the upper right of your picture with the violet/yellow and black going into it. That is where the lose black/blue wire goes.

They probably did this so operators could more easily disable the magnet. But I don't see a single mention of it anywhere in the manual. You're probably gonna have to crimp some new pins if the wire came off completely like that. The black/blue wire also weirdly changes gauges when going through this connector which just added to my confusion in even finding it lol.

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Err...sorry the blue/black stripe wire not the black/blue wire

So any tips or suggestions for this? The through holes of J7 at pin 10 and 9 are completely gone but the back doesn't look that bad. I was thinking just a small tiny jumper from the back pins to their respective traces and a longer jumper from pin 9 to pin 4 of J9 would be ok. But J6 the GI input I'm not too sure how to go about it. I'm not sure if there will be any through holes at all to work with and jumping from the back to the front seems impractical. Jumping from the input pins to the fuses directly on the back seems messy too.
I should probably say this board dose fully work in the machine, it just looks really bad. Should I start a new thread for this? This is from a Rollergames.

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This is absolutely not clear in the manual in any way. I have looked over it a dozen times with multiple windows open to all the associated pages. Hopefully this is the only issue with that. Thanks for the help!!

Edit: magnet works. Thanks again!

There looks to be enough pad left on J6 (side connector) that you should be able to get a new strip of male header pins in if you're careful and have decent soldering/desoldering equipment.

For J7 (yikes) I would repin as much of it as possible with new male pins and use a new connector housing that matches the number of male pins you've replaced. Make sure it's keyed properly. I would then solder wires to the traces on the backside of the board for the J7 pins that are blown out. Run those wires from back and through to the front. Use an external connector housing (like the one pictured in the post directly above yours) for only those soldered pins.

A less elegant solution IMO, but you could remove the male pins entirely and run wires out of the interconnect board to an external connector for all of them. This had been done on the Rollergames I've been working on for J6 and the two left wires on J7 but the work was very sloppy and my board was in good enough shape that I was able to remove and replace fully with normal connectors. Oftentimes a lot of the burnt garbage is roasted solder rosin and cleaning that off leads to some surprisingly not so bad pads underneath. In your case though, J7 is toast on the left side for sure.

Also, you probably know this but in case someone else reads that doesn't, I'd recommend LEDs in the GI so this problem goes away for good.

So how'd I do? I'll probably go over it one more time with alcohol to clean up a little more of the flux but I think I did pretty good. Probably applied a little too much heat to J7. But I just couldn't get the plug out at all. Eventually I just used tweezers on the pins while heating up the other side and just pulling them straight through. Did that from the start on J6 and it came out much quicker. Turns out there nothing connected on pin 4 in J9 for Rollergames so I didn't bother jumpering it to J7. If anyone's wondering I used trimmed down pins from the old connectors for jumpering the completely destroyed pads on the back of J7. The pads on J6 were surprisingly not that bad.

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You may need to be careful with J7. Since there are no pads or holes left, your solder joints are going to take the strain of the plug and may eventually crack/fail. Otherwise, your work looks great. Have you tested yet?

Cleaning flux with alcohol works but actual flux remover works far better. If you're getting into doing a little more board work it's worth picking up a can.

Yeah just finished, works great. New everything. Technically the y gi mod explained on pinwiki was already done by someone before. but like the other work done on the interconnect board it just looked really bad (electrical tape mess). So I redid it properly. The gi wires going to the backbox insert panel are still slightly warm just like before. But I think that has more to do with the gauge of the wire itself.

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I have a later RG without diamond plate and on Friday I’m picking up an older one with diamond plate (in much nicer condition).

Should I swap the ramps and put the plated ones on the diamond plate game?

Anyone got any idea what would be causing the game to knock once randomly the instant the game is turned on? Is this an operator alert thing? I do have one target that works kinda sporadically. It just seems too random to be an alert seeing as it mostly only ever happen after being off for at least a day or so. Everything works fine in normal operation. All I can think of is one of the 74 chips not properly latching or unlatching 100% of the time when power is first being applied. The coil doesn't locks on for a second when first booting then unlocks when it done booting. It's just a quick little bang the instant the switch is thrown.

I don't think it's an operator alert. I have a constant alert for an unused switch, but my game doesn't do this every time. I thought it was just a random system 11 power up thing but I'm not really sure.

Anyone know where I can get playfield decals for Roller games

Thanks and stay safe

Greg

I'm not sure if they make those? I've never seen any.

So there any info on this? I vaguely remember reading about this either here or somewhere else. I don't see any place that sells them and that part number itself is a little up in the air ( I think it's this https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=02-4453). I just rebuilt that flipper and even with all new parts it dose still seem to go a little farther then normal. It's very slightly over compressing the spring, not by much but it's there. Probably why the last spring was broken. I think it's used in the diverter too. The game plays fine without it, I'm just wondering.

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I think my game had the original black plunger, but it was worn to the point of not being much different from regular new parts, which is what I used.

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My Rollergames is finally fully up and running electrically but I now have a couple questions about how things are supposed to work and align. 8’ve played a few RGs before but this is my first time really tearing into one.

First, my magnet flip is weak. The flipper is strong... it’s brand new and has no issue making the ramp but when the magnet is on and holding the ball, it appears to be drawing down the power enough that the flipper can no longer provide enough power for the ramp. It’s not even close. The alignment seems fine. If I put the ball on the same spot and hold it with my finger the flipper will nail the ramp every time. Anyone seen something similar before?

The ramp diverter coil behaves like a flipper with a broken eos (quick pulse then drop) and the timing is poor/seems to activate too soon. It will still divert balls to the proper places most of the time but it’s crazy clunky. The ball typically hits the corner of the diverter entrance and bounces around before making it down the proper ramp path. Is it supposed to just pulse quickly or should it hold for long enough to guide the ball?

Also, is the ramp angled from high on the left and lower on the right? I had no stud posts and no hex posts for the entire ramp/diverter assembly with the game and had to resort to buying/building my own based on the manual. It tells me the sizes but not where to put them unf.

Hello, Hope all is well. Just wondering if anyone has : Drop target lock plastic

And Linkage b-13843

Thanks in advance! JR

Rollergames is on FS1 right now!!! Back to back episodes from 1990.

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I was just getting on to say that Rollergames is on FS1 too. Looks like they are running 2 shows each Sunday night and playing the whole (only) season. Nice to see the Williams advertisement in the background.

You know, born in '74, it may have been only one season ... but I watched it! And it disappeared. But it was silly, over-dramatic fun, imho. And Steve Ritchie made awesomely simple but fast and exciting pins.