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(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)


By practicalsteve

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 961 posts
  • 160 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by uncivil_engineer
  • Topic is favorited by 55 Pinsiders

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There are 961 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 20.
#851 1 year ago

Can a program ROM be bought with the RG Software mod? If so does anyone know the link to it? thanks.

#852 1 year ago

I'm printing these Rollergames cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

Rollergames1 (resized).jpgRollergames2 (resized).jpg
#853 1 year ago

Has anyone re-aligned the diverter arms or are they fixed in position? On a solid shot, the first arm isn't down far enough and the ball will ricochet backwards off the edge of the ramp.

#854 1 year ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Has anyone re-aligned the diverter arms or are they fixed in position? On a solid shot, the first arm isn't down far enough and the ball will ricochet backwards off the edge of the ramp.

If I remember right the rack that moves them both is adjustable.

3 weeks later
#855 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm printing these Rollergames cards for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.

Rollergames1.jpgRollergames2.jpg
1 week later
#856 1 year ago

Just made a 10 hr round trip to join the club! Only played the game a few times on location, but this one came up at the right price and I had to grab it. So far, really enjoying it. Going to order a set a Cliffys, but otherwise it's in good players condition.

#857 1 year ago

Joined the club today. Plays great but needs a good cleanup and some insert work.

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1 week later
#858 1 year ago

Hello Everyone.

I did a run of these plastic protectors for Rollergames about 3 years ago and have recently sold my last one. I wanted to check if there's any interest in doing another run.

There is a protector for the often broken drop target plastic and also for the sling shots. If there is some interest, please let me know, and I'll work to determine current pricing and manufacturing time.

Thanks!

drops.jpgslings.jpg
#859 1 year ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Hello Everyone.
I did a run of these plastic protectors for Rollergames about 3 years ago and have recently sold my last one. I wanted to check if there's any interest in doing another run.
There is a protector for the often broken drop target plastic and also for the sling shots. If there is some interest, please let me know, and I'll work to determine current pricing and manufacturing time.
Thanks! [quoted image][quoted image]

Interested

#860 1 year ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Hello Everyone.
I did a run of these plastic protectors for Rollergames about 3 years ago and have recently sold my last one. I wanted to check if there's any interest in doing another run.
There is a protector for the often broken drop target plastic and also for the sling shots. If there is some interest, please let me know, and I'll work to determine current pricing and manufacturing time.

I am also interested.

#861 1 year ago

Interested

Also looking for a decent plastic for over the drop targets if anyone has one.

#862 1 year ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Hello Everyone.
I did a run of these plastic protectors for Rollergames about 3 years ago and have recently sold my last one. I wanted to check if there's any interest in doing another run.
There is a protector for the often broken drop target plastic and also for the sling shots. If there is some interest, please let me know, and I'll work to determine current pricing and manufacturing time.
Thanks! [quoted image][quoted image]

I'd be in for a set. I wish there was something for the plastic to the right of the ramp entrance.

#863 1 year ago

Interested in plastic protectors.

#864 1 year ago

Happy to see there is still interest in the protectors!

I've received a quote on getting them made up. The current price would be $30 for the set. That includes first class shipping to the lower 48 US states. (Other locations may cost more.)

If you'd like to order some please send me a private message with your shipping address and email where I can send you a Paypal invoice.

Thanks!

1 week later
#865 1 year ago

I made some flasher reference maps. Numbers indicate each lamp's position in the solenoid table and each lamp's stripe color.

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#866 1 year ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

I made some flasher reference maps. Numbers indicate each lamp's position in the solenoid table and each lamp's stripe color.

Nifty! Thanks for sharing.

1 week later
#867 1 year ago

I don't know if there's anything useful here, but i have a rollergames playfield that's mostly stripped. If you see anything that's rollergames specific that you're interested in let me know. It came with a whirlwind that i bought 13 years ago and has been sitting around since. I've just been using it for replacement switches and other common parts.

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2 weeks later
#868 11 months ago

I'm in!

The cabinet reds are gone, but it has the translite flashers and a nice diamond plate playfield.

Click... http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/rollergames/index.html

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#869 11 months ago

Just found a bug that lets you play multiball with one ball. Confirmed it with the glass off:

Lock 2 balls normally.
While the 2 locked balls are cycling, tilt the machine.
When timed correctly, the lock diverter will stay out and make the locked balls drain.
Light the 3rd lock. It will start playing the lock lit music, then change back to normal music immediately.
Lock the ball.

Multiball mode will start and run until the end of the ball.

#870 11 months ago

I have a Rollergames. It is not a Diamond playfield, but in good players condition. Can someone tell me how to slide out the playfield? Will it just lift off the pivot bracket post things? I want to replace some rubber rings under the ramp and very hard to work on the back of the playfield.

#871 11 months ago
Quoted from cory79:

I have a Rollergames. It is not a Diamond playfield, but in good players condition. Can someone tell me how to slide out the playfield? Will it just lift off the pivot bracket post things? I want to replace some rubber rings under the ramp and very hard to work on the back of the playfield.

I’ll be interested to hear what others say since I don’t know if I have read a proper way to do this.

I tip up the playfield and lift it straight up off the hinge posts. I then set the back of the brackets on the posts. This allows that extra space to get to the back in most instances. Also depending on GI socket placement you can slide the playfield out a little further, letting it slide and rest on the posts.

I have a broom handle prop rod I use for the excess playfield hanging off the front for the cab so it’s not resting on any of the mechs or wires. It just sits on the ground. If you are on concrete or hardwood I suggest a rubber pinfoot for the prop rod. That way it won’t slide while you work.

Unconventional, yes, but I’ve been doing cleaning and swaps this way for years.

Rubbers in the back are a PITA since you have to most likely take off the big upper ramp mech and form.

#872 11 months ago

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#873 11 months ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Jesus. I’m working to hard at this.

Perfect. I’m making a set when I get home.

#874 11 months ago

I gotta make some of those wood things too. Can anybody tell me what part I am missing in the center of the coin things. The quarter drops down and it is a free fall and always doesn’t hit the credit switch.

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#875 11 months ago

Is it the coin mech that is missing or some sort of plastic chute? Part # and where to get what I am missing would be very helpful. Looked on Marco, but couldn't find anything that matches up. Searched for parts diagrams and couldn't find much either.

#876 11 months ago

It should take standard US coin mechs. Are you going to route the game? If not, you don't need them.
https://www.pinballlife.com/25-cent-standard-coin-mech.html

#877 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisS:

I’ll be interested to hear what others say since I don’t know if I have read a proper way to do this.
I tip up the playfield and lift it straight up off the hinge posts. I then set the back of the brackets on the posts. This allows that extra space to get to the back in most instances. Also depending on GI socket placement you can slide the playfield out a little further, letting it slide and rest on the posts.
I have a broom handle prop rod I use for the excess playfield hanging off the front for the cab so it’s not resting on any of the mechs or wires. It just sits on the ground. If you are on concrete or hardwood I suggest a rubber pinfoot for the prop rod. That way it won’t slide while you work.
Unconventional, yes, but I’ve been doing cleaning and swaps this way for years.
Rubbers in the back are a PITA since you have to most likely take off the big upper ramp mech and form.

Never knew you could do this. Good to know!

#878 11 months ago

Cool. Thank you all. I don't plan on routing it at this point. Made some wood blocks, got the ramp moved out of the way so I can clean and replace the old rubber bands. Taking all posts off and cleaning wax from previous owners messy wax job. Going to be one clean machine when I get done.

#879 11 months ago

How do you fix inserts? A lot of mine are bubbling up.

#880 11 months ago

Finally getting to join this club after a long wait! I first played Rollergames at the Louisville Arcade Expo, five or so years ago and fell in love with it.

Now, first things first. Those clown vomit LEDs have to go!

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#881 11 months ago

Looks good. White rubbers and red flipper bands make it look really good I think. Also Cliffy makes a protector for the side of the entry on the ramp and a vuk protector.

#882 11 months ago

Should I lay down some Mylar where the pink guy is? There is some wear going on.

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#883 11 months ago

This is probably 2J6; one of the wires got disconnected from the connector.
Can anyone confirm where it should go?
I'm assuming 2J6-3 but would like to be sure before identifying and crimping everything.
Thanks!

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#884 11 months ago

If you take a better pic, I could tell where the wire goes, your finger is hiding the pattern of the wires.

#885 11 months ago
Quoted from cory79:

If you take a better pic, I could tell where the wire goes, your finger is hiding the pattern of the wires.

We can see by following the loops.

From left to right on the picture (it might be the other way when plugged in):
Yellow/white:
Loop in 1-2 and 3-4
Wire in 2 and 3

Yellow:
Loop in 6-7 and 8-9
Wire in 8.

The other wire should either be in 6 or 7 (or it doesn't matter).

#886 11 months ago

Comet 2SMD bulbs, much better! I chose natural white for the GI to mimic the color tone of stadium lighting.

Also installed new white rubbers and a complete flipper rebuild.

20191024_211028 (resized).jpg20191024_213600 (resized).jpg
#887 11 months ago

Looks nice, Cliffy makes some protectors for the pit and wall ramp. I have some extras, and drop down target plastic, and some plastic protectors if interested. Also looks like you are missing some nuts on those cages.

1 month later
#888 9 months ago

Going over my buddy's RG. The center plastic was destroyed so iaser cut/engraved a new one out of UV Plexi. Painted the text. Very happy with it! Put a PETG protector under it.

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#889 9 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Going over my buddy's RG. The center plastic was destroyed so iaser cut/engraved a new one out of UV Plexi. Painted the text. Very happy with it! Put a PETG protector under it.[quoted image]

Nice work! If I was doing this, I would be very tempted to correct the very incorrect spelling and grammar of "lite" to "lights".

1 month later
#890 8 months ago

I have an extra set of PETG protectors that have some minor imperfections. Once they're on you'll likely never be able to tell. Looking for $15 shipped in the USA.

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2 weeks later
#891 7 months ago

What kind of post should at the marked position?
My game is missing that post. Got the cliffs to fix up the ramp.

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#892 7 months ago

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#893 7 months ago
Quoted from ChrisS:

Jesus. I’m working to hard at this.
Perfect. I’m making a set when I get home.

Did you ever make any? I didn’t see them when I fixed your RG :-p

#894 7 months ago

Anyone got a shot of the back of the speaker display panel? The game I got is a real hodgepodge of stuff; the cpu is from a bugs bunny, the displays and speaker panel is from a diner, the aux and power supply is from something else. Being as the panel isn't from this game the lamp board and holes for said lamps were missing when I got it. But I found someone selling the lamp board that goes behind the williams letters on ebay. The only problem being that obviously there's now no holes for the lamps because diner didn't have any. So anyone have any good shots of the panel without the lamp board in the way? Just trying to get some ideas on how it was done originally before I go and start cutting stuff.

#895 7 months ago

Thanks for the pictures jeffzee
Still very har d to figure out the correct post.

Anyone?

#897 7 months ago

Sorry, I was being a bit vague.

I meant the metal post.

#898 7 months ago

I have a RG plexiglass speaker panel in so so condition. Taken off a dead RG cabinet that eventually became a vpin cabinet. I have the inner white lamp board for the BB. I also have the original working transformer for it too. PM if interested. The lamp board is wired and socketed, but is missing the hinges, has pigtail and relay still mounted.

#899 7 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Sorry, I was being a bit vague.
I meant the metal post.

Okay, I get what you're saying. For some reason that particular post on my game had a stud with an odd-size hex drive. Don't know why and I don't know what part it is...

post (resized).JPG

But I think it's 6-32 top and bottom and I don't see why a regular post stud wouldn't work in its place...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-9899

Edit: I think DumbAss has it right (see next post).

#900 7 months ago

It's almost certainly the 02-4424-1 post that you want. Check if there's a t-nut on the under side of the playfield and then check the thread count. I think you'll find that Williams used 8-32 for these t-nuts.

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