That's a good place to start. Thank you.

I joined the club yesterday and spent the morning going through this thread.
1) SN 360484, Diamond plate playfield in good but dirty condition. Most of the rubbers are dry rotted and falling apart. Some battery damage but my biggest issue is that the door menu buttons aren't working correctly. (EDIT) They are working, my lower display is not working so I wasn't seeing the options change when I pressed the select button.
2) Divertor spring is broken, Any place for a replacement ? (found this at Marco)
3) Missing the red fins behind the pit
4) My center wire form is black, there doesn't appear to be any other colors under it.
5) Fortunately my lock cover is intact.
6) None of my backbox lights are working, someone removed the relay from the circuit (taping the green wires together and the browns together). J11 connector is a mess (ugly pins, missing plastic on the connector) so I'm guessing that will be a project fix.

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I have some plastics/parts that would help with the restore.

That's unusual, never seen that before. On my RG, I had someone sandblast and powdercoat the wireforms, and it wasn't very expensive. Cheaper to go all one color, which I did more partly to keep costs down on a big restoration, partly because I always hated the 3 different colors. Went with all red and don't regret it at all.

If you need those fin plastics, I bought a new set for mine but have all the original ones. Happy to send them along if you need them.

Is anybody out there making a replacement for the big plastic that covers the lock solenoid? Mine's missing but I saw an RG at Pintastic that had one which looked brand new. Would love to get that taken care of, game is otherwise brand new looking after full restoration.

Last night on a FB post, somebody was looking for this plastic over the shooter lane. I believe the mounting ears were broken as they often are. I fixed mine last year with a piece of scrap stainless steel from a junk side rail. Took a pic of it and was going to post it there, but couldn't find the post again. Anyway, here it is for the RG club to see. Might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I find myself fixing parts this way from time to time. Nice and solid, durable, and rarely noticed by anybody.

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I don't know if these are still sought after by people but I sold my RG to a mate who had a few drop target plastics made. I have seen these and they are good quality. If you are interested he is after £15 each + postage at cost to wherever you are. Message me with your email and I will forward your details to him as he's not on Pinside.

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Wrong plastic, the one in the pic is for Riverboat Gambler.

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What an idiot I am, you're right, I sold him my rbg as well!!!! Sorry my bad!

They actually are remaking those always broken plastics for RG anyway. You can pick them up at Marco for $15. I have a couple of spares.

Hey guys I just joined the club on Tuesday. Got this bad boy home. It looks to be in pretty decent shape. It’s a uk reimport so I need to change it back from 220 to 110. Also when I flipped the playfield up I noticed two connectors empty and a spot that looks like a board or something might be missing? Could someone send me a picture of theirs please and tell me what I’m missing if anything. It also appears to be set in German language when he plugged it in at his house when I picked it up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

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what you miss the high current board it is that operates the magnet under the PLF

Thanks very much!

Where does this go? Came in the cpr set but couldn’t find one when pulling the game apart

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northvibe That goes between the SPOTS WILLIAMS LETTER plastic and the atomic whip wireform.

Do you have a picture? Having a hard time figuring this out.

Only thing I can think of, is under the left plastic, and have it on top of posts, the notch out to where the spinner is?

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Old shop-out pic, between skate targets and wireform. Discolored clear plastic. Looks like it rivets on a ball guide. You should see rivet holes in it.

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Ahhhh thank you!

We kept thinking it went flat, not vertical. Thanks!

Where can I score a set of Head decals the sides are fine but the heads were painted over.

Chris

Anyone know how the diverter arms are supposed to be set? I rebuilt my upper flipper and now it is too strong and shoots right past the locks. It was working perfectly before with the old worn switch and coil.

Your flipper isn’t too strong unless you put in an overpowered coil. The diverter arms should work very responsively. I assume the entry switch is OK, which leaves the thing you don't want to hear - disassbling the mechanism and cleaning it. Is the coil for the diverter arms OK? Does it feel sticky when you move the bar manually? Activate in coil test?

I end up looking into the diverter and the pivot point was stripped on the far end. I end up lining it up correctly and J-b welding it together and now it plays perfectly. Cheers
Really loving this game now that I have it shopped and dialed in!

Somebody was making replacement bars for just that purpose, but I can’t for the life of me remember who; I ordered one 3 years ago. If I come across the info I’ll pass it along.

https://www.fabunlimited.com/pinball/williams-rollergames-pinball-divertor-drive-link

Hi everyone,
new to the club, just recently picked up a roller games machine, had my first ever play on it last night and really enjoyed it, would just like to know if there is anyone making the ball lock cover as mine is missing.
cheers
Trevor
Brisbane
Australia

I’m chasing a Rollergames operations manual, anyone know where I can purchase one from?
Cheers
Trevor

I might have an extra one, are you going to TPF or do you know Martin from H2H?

Hi mate,
no sorry I wont be going to TPF as I live in Australia, and I don't know H2H, if you have one for sale I am happy to pay for postage to Brisbane Australia
cheers
Trevor

Are you aware of IPDB? You can download operators manuals for hundreds of games there.

Hey ya'll,
First time posting and brand new to this Pinball addiction.

I've got a question that was touched on but I don't think was ever resolved. For some reason, by third ball is no longer ejecting after I lock the first two. I lock the first ball, it says Ball Locked and ejects the 2nd ball. I lock the second ball and it says Ball Locked but then it won't eject the third ball. The game cycles through looking for the third ball but never finds it. At this point, I have to turn off the game and reboot it.

This all started around the same time as the Ball Lock tabs stopped working all the time. Sometimes, not all the time, I knock down all three tabs and it doesn't register that they're down. Then they all pop back up and it works fine.

Any ideas?
Cheers

Make sure the single 3rd ball is falling all the way to the edge of the trough closest to the shooter lane. For some reason on my game, without the weight of one of the other (or both) balls behind it the 3rd one will get hung up rolling down just before the spot it should eject from. You can shake the game side to side to fix it, and make sure it's level side to side.

Other than that, it could be your ball trough switch closest to the shooter lane being flaky.

New Rollergames software mod

Basically the all-skill treatment with side orders.

Special thanks to Ron Hallett.

Rollergames
Rev L-2 patch a06e
Download link: https://tinyurl.com/yxv8r726
Please read the Readme and follow the patch guide carefully.

Release note

Changes

Adjustment 24 is fixed at the "Custom coinage" option.
Adjustment 38 "Save locks" defaults to "No".
Adjustment 45 "Contest mode" renamed to "Contest game".
Adjustment 50 "Display AU01-04", removed. Default "Yes".
Adjustment 51 "1 coin buy-in", removed. Default "No".
Adjustment 52 "Replay boost", removed. Default "Yes".
Adjustment (install) 56 "Install 1 coin", removed.
Adjustment (install) 57 "Install 3 / $1", removed.
Adjustment (install) 58 "Install 2 coin", removed.

Locks made are player individual. No hard lock stealing.
New diaplay/sound effect on virtual locks, where a "lock ball" is diverted to inlane for continuous play.
Compensation locks lit for re-locking balls removed by other players.
When re-lock is available, a plunged ramp will lock the ball.

When Contest game selected: Limited ball search. Locked balls are not released.

Sudden death random starting, removed.
On Sudden death completion, the ball is diverted to the right inlane.

A bug where starting multiball would occationally award a jackpot, fixed.

When Contest game selected: Roller motion mystery is a fixed sequence. Player individual.
Williams letter
Instant lock (if no further locks are needed for multiball, go to next)
Sudden death
Lite team
Lite atomic whip (if kickback is lit, go to next)
Jetter bonus
Bonus multiplier

The procedure goes down the list and selects the first available one that is not already awarded (this run).
A currently unavailable Instant lock or Lite atomic whip will be saved for later.
On completion, the list is starting over. This includes either of Instant lock or Lite atomic whip, which happens to be unavailable.

Why it rocks

Randomisation removed for better luck/skill balance in competitive play.
Sudden death may now be played for strategically.
The optimal physical lock solution for a fair multi-player game.
Bug fixes.

Note

The rev. L-2 has compensation locks lit for stolen locks.
It is not perfect, and in any case rewritten for the new no hard lock stealing design.
Now you are compensated for own made locks only. And always.

Draining ball search'ed released locks (non-contest game) will have the game displaying the fun-with-bonus.
However, the game is not adding the points. And it is not ending the current ball-on-play.

A completed Sudden death is 8M total. The 6th shot counts for 1M on it own. Plus 2M completion bonus.

Sounds like this was a lot of work. Good job!

This is so great, Soren! I'm really excited to try this out. I love seeing people with programming skills revamp games to give them that little bit of extra depth that really takes them up another level. Thanks for all your amazing effort!

I joined the club last night! Looks like I have the commonly broken plastic.

Anyone have an extra one? Used would be just fine....

I didn't see any single repros for sale like you can find for Diner.

Thanks!

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You can buy that plastic on ebay

Thanks, just now getting around to fixing this. It looks like my 3rd ball is all the way to the edge and the switch seems to be working. I'm thinking of just buying an extra ball or two. Will this game hold more than 3 balls?

I'm also trying to trouble shoot the drop targets (the ones that activate the ball lock) but not sure what I'm looking at. The middle drop target doesn't seem to be registering that it was hit. It drops fine, but it doesn't always recognize that it dropped.
The image shoes one drop target registering (sound and lights work anyway), but the middle one doesn't indicate recognition through sound and lights. Does that make sense?

I appreciate any help on this guys. It's not like I can just take these things to the pinball mechanic and have em fixed.
Cheers

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Adding extra balls to the game won't help. (AFAIK) Gotta find the bad switch.

As fas as the drops, there's switches for each drop target. Middle one either has a wire broken off or just needs adjusted most likely.

How do you adjust the switches on the drop targets?

In fact, you do you find bad switches in general? I've seen y'all talk about pushing the buttons on the inside of the door but all that does is cycle through the game metrics. I must be doing something wrong.

Depends on the type of switch, but with drop targets it's probably a leaf switch which means just bending the metal tabs until they contact each other when the switch is closed mechanically. (by the plastic drop target gettin' dropped)

Thanks Leeb18509.
Unfortunately it's not a leaf switch. I had to remove it to get a better look and I can't tell what kind of switch it is. I thought these (highlighted in red) were just track guides for the targets, but they're wired to a resistor so..... I don't know.

I also found a missing lock washer on the middle target but not sure it that has anything to do with it.

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Oh, it's an opto. My duh. My RG isn't setup at the moment. I'm not sure if they have the optos set up to test in the "switch test" part of the menu. If they don't you can lift the PF up just enough and start a game, then stick a piece of paper through the opto and see if it registers. Check the ones that work to compare. If it does have the 3-bank target in the switch test, get the menu on that and then test away after removing all the pinballs.

Missing washer is normal, they're just there to hold the circuit board on.

So on the Soren roms how do you start sudden death? Just from rollermotion?

Yes, that's the only way. No more randomly starting Sudden Death.

Ok cool I wasn’t sure if there was another way like # of switch hits or something. Thanks very much.

Sudden death by, and only by, Roller motion was the best solution. It was already possible through Roller motion. So no difference there.

Only now, when selected by the Contest game adjustement, the Roller motion is in sequence. And hence a strategic game element.

Sudden death is no. 3 award. Except, if the sum of your locks made and locks lit is enough to start the multilball. Then Sudden death is Roller motion no. 2. So, by expert playing, it is possible to prioritise these games modes a little.

hello I have a rollergames but aside from changing bulbs, im new to fixing it. When I launch the ball, it has no power and cant even make it up the ramp. can someone tell me how to fix this. also the upper flipper has been sticking. any help anyone can give id appreaciate.

Anyone looking for a prototype Rollergames? I am thinking about selling mine. It is number 4 off the line from what I can tell.

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Your plunger either needs to be cleaned or needs a stronger spring. If you have played in in the past and the ball has made it up the ramp, then you need to remove the plunger and clean it thoroughly. I use solvent rather than soap based products so as to diminish the chances of dirt being attracted to the surfaces in the future but I may be overthinking it. Do NOT attempt to lubricate the shooter rod, it will rapidly become gummed up and unusable.

As to the flipper - your flippers almost certainly need to be rebuilt. It's a great introductory way to start working on your pin and take the mystery out of it. Follow this guide to the letter and you'll be so glad that you did! And let us know how it's going for you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers