(Topic ID: 108521)

Rock, Rock, Rockin' Rollergames! (club)


By practicalsteve

5 years ago



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There are 890 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 18.
#701 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hello to all!
My RG have developed an odd problem, maybe you guys can help me: playing on a simple game and when ball 1 gets lock, 2 balls are placed on the shooter lane, this condition will only happen when ball one is locked. I cannot replicate it under any other condition. Any idea?
Many many thanks!
~ja

Does it happen every time you lock one ball? I once had the same thing happen, used the plunger to shoot both balls, and then the problem went away (not sure why that seemed to reset things, but it did). Also, if that trick doesn't work, try unplugging the pin (and you may also need to remove the batteries). I have no idea if that will help but I know in general when my electronics act up unplugging them and letting them sit for awhile sometimes helps. Other than I think you will lose your high scores and perhaps settings, it's worth a shot since that sounds like an annoying problem.

#702 2 years ago

Failing all those useful tips above, you may have a switch matrix issue with lock 1 and shooter lane switches (and possibly a third switch you haven't even noticed anything wrong with.) I haven't looked at the matrix diagram to see how closely related they are, but its worth looking into.

1 week later
#703 2 years ago

I thought I would share a little lighting mod that I thought was necessary on Rollergames. The WAR logo at the top left of the game seemed a logical spot to have back lit so I added a wedge socket and shrouded LED behind the logo. There's a perfect mounting point at the gate so no extra drilling! I used a recycled coil sleeve to make a shroud so it didn't light up the diverter mech too much. The 2smd faceted bulb from Comet was perfect because of the spotlight-lens top and because the coil sleeve fit perfectly over the body of the lens.
Cheers!

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#704 2 years ago
Quoted from Jeelopy:

I thought I would share a little lighting mod that I thought was necessary on Rollergames. The WAR logo at the top left of the game seemed a logical spot to have back lit so I added a wedge socket and shrouded LED behind the logo. There's a perfect mounting point at the gate so no extra drilling! I used a recycled coil sleeve to make a shroud so it didn't light up the diverter mech too much. The 2smd faceted bulb from Comet was perfect because of the spotlight-lens top and because the coil sleeve fit perfectly over the body of the lens.
Cheers!

Nice work! Great idea too! I thought about putting a slow color-changing LED back there a ways back and talked myself out of it... You have me second guessing now!

1 week later
#705 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Nice work! Great idea too! I thought about putting a slow color-changing LED back there a ways back and talked myself out of it... You have me second guessing now!

Ooooh, a color changer would be cool too. I used the Comet Matrix wiring so it can be unplugged easily if the ramp needs to be removed.

#706 2 years ago

I have a problem making the Wall ramp with the upper right flipper.

The ball tends to hit the lower part of the mouth of the ramp and roll back out. I have tried moving the flipper "forward" until it covers part of the magnet to try and improve the angle the ball leaves it but I still only make the shot 50% of the time.

Any suggestions?

#707 2 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

I have a problem making the Wall ramp with the upper right flipper.
The ball tends to hit the lower part of the mouth of the ramp and roll back out. I have tried moving the flipper "forward" until it covers part of the magnet to try and improve the angle the ball leaves it but I still only make the shot 50% of the time.
Any suggestions?

My suggestion... Adjust the flipper back where it's supposed to be, and get better at playing pinball.
If its the magnet free shot that you're not making, rebuild your flipper, or at the very least replace the coil sleeve and make sure all the nuts/bolt/screws related to the flipper assembly are tight. Also make sure you have the proper gap on your bat shaft.

#708 2 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

I have a problem making the Wall ramp with the upper right flipper.
The ball tends to hit the lower part of the mouth of the ramp and roll back out. I have tried moving the flipper "forward" until it covers part of the magnet to try and improve the angle the ball leaves it but I still only make the shot 50% of the time.
Any suggestions?

As TheOnlyest said, it may just be your skills. I know I make it all the time when I have the magnet, but only about 50% of the time when I don't have it (that includes complete misses as well as what you described) - and I contributed that success rate to my skills, or lack thereof. If you have the same problem even with the magnet then I agree that perhaps rebuilding it will help (and obviously make sure you have the correct coil - not sure if your coil is the original or not). I also agree that I would adjust it back to where it is supposed to be.

#709 2 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

I have a problem making the Wall ramp with the upper right flipper.
The ball tends to hit the lower part of the mouth of the ramp and roll back out. I have tried moving the flipper "forward" until it covers part of the magnet to try and improve the angle the ball leaves it but I still only make the shot 50% of the time.
Any suggestions?

I hope you are able to fix it or improve your skills - I love making that combo shot! After the "Kick Butt" song it's my favorite part of the game.

#710 2 years ago
Quoted from Jeelopy:

Ooooh, a color changer would be cool too. I used the Comet Matrix wiring so it can be unplugged easily if the ramp needs to be removed.

As cool as it would look, I convinced myself that it may be too distracting. But i'm rethinking the idea with a simple GI bulb. I suppose once the socket is there, I could try the color changer to test my theory.
Comet Matrix is the only way to go when you add a bulb to a removable assembly, like a ramp... Unless you build a molex connector, which I sometimes do.

#711 2 years ago

The problem is with the shot off the magnet. Obviously in free play I make the ramp 100% of the time

The plunger assembly and EOS switch are new but the coil sleeve is stuck in the coil which is looking a bit worse for wear. I going to replace it and see if there is any improvement.

The metal ramp protector (at the side of the black post sleeve in the pic) is bent slightly inwards at the bottom. Does everyone elses look like this?

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#712 2 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

The problem is with the shot off the magnet. Obviously in free play I make the ramp 100% of the time
The plunger assembly and EOS switch are new but the coil sleeve is stuck in the coil which is looking a bit worse for wear. I going to replace it and see if there is any improvement.
The metal ramp protector (at the side of the black post sleeve in the pic) is bent slightly inwards at the bottom. Does everyone elses look like this?

I just checked mine and on the left side of the ramp entrance (by the black post sleeve) my metal ball guide is bent in slightly at the bottom like yours; however, on the right side it looks like you have a cliffy or other type of protector for perhaps a cracked plastic, which I don't have. Not sure if that is creating part of the issue (although would also replace the coil sleeve and perhaps coil as well to see if that helps). If you want a photo of my ramp entrance let me know and I'll post one this weekend for you.

#713 2 years ago

andy_b I was having similar issues with the upper right flipper before going through my game. The ball would would not even make it up the ramp at times. Luckily (wink) the coil melted down so I did a complete rebuild including coil, sleeve, Plunger/link as well as a new bat. It works flawlessly now. I'm not a very good pinball player so I honestly think it's your flipper assembly. Good luck!

2 weeks later
#714 2 years ago

Well I have replaced all the components in the upper right flipper and I still have the same problem. The ball hits the bottom part of the mouth of the ramp and does not make it up to the diverter.
I am going to try and alter the position of the flipper bat to see if this improves things. I can't see what else it can be.

#715 2 years ago

So I moved the flipper nearer to the magnet and that seems to have done the trick. It's quite a way from the alignment mark but it works.

2 weeks later
#716 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hello to all!
My RG have developed an odd problem, maybe you guys can help me: playing on a simple game and when ball 1 gets lock, 2 balls are placed on the shooter lane, this condition will only happen when ball one is locked. I cannot replicate it under any other condition. Any idea?
Many many thanks!
~ja

In test mode, go to SWITCH EDGES and test the switches manually. Use an actual pinball for things other than targets.
I wonder if your shooter lane switch or the ball 1 switch have stopped working? So that the game doesn't know where all the balls are? My first thought is shooter lane; CPU knows there is a ball in the lock but isn't registering a ball in the shooter lane and pops out another one?
Something along those lines is my first guess.

1 month later
#717 1 year ago

im surprised not many have done the 15 flasher lamp add in their games in the posting. been trying to find a wire schematic for that for a while

#718 1 year ago

Some before/ after pics of the Pitt vuk hole and shooter lane restorations on my sample RG.

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#719 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipnFargo:

im surprised not many have done the 15 flasher lamp add in their games in the posting. been trying to find a wire schematic for that for a while

No clue what you're talking about...

#720 1 year ago

He’s talking about the flashers in the back box. Early/Proto games had them installed but production games they were removed but a lot of games have the holes drilled for them so a person could install them.

#721 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipnFargo:

im surprised not many have done the 15 flasher lamp add in their games in the posting. been trying to find a wire schematic for that for a while

I did this on mine because it had the insert board with the holes already cut out.

have the details somewhere if you are planning on doing this.
John Wart Jnr posted them originally.

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#722 1 year ago
Quoted from Chet:

Some before/ after pics of the Pitt vuk hole and shooter lane restorations on my sample RG.

I see you have the Cliffy for the ramp entry; did you know he makes a Pit protector as well? Super easy to install.

#723 1 year ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

have the details somewhere if you are planning on doing this.

Yes please, I have the holes and would like to install the flashers

#724 1 year ago

I would like to see the details as well. Mine doesn't have the holes, but I have a drill that will take care of that

#725 1 year ago

When I take mine apart i can do a "map" of all the hole positions of it helps.

#726 1 year ago

Retro-fitting the flashers is quite straighforward if the holes are already present.

Here's the items you will need. You will also need to replace the J7 10 pin female connector on the interconnect board which supplies the power to the flashers which for some reason I didn't include. It may be obvious but I will say it anyway, you will need 15 lamp holders, not just one

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#727 1 year ago

Strictly speaking the wires should be predominantly black with the various different colour stripes indicating which flashers they connect to. I had an old Gorgar cab that I raided the wiring harness for so mine were white but with the correct colour stripe. Any wire of the same gauge will do but if they are all the same colour then I imagine it could get a bit confusing.

I marked the insert board with the flasher numbers so I knew which would be connected to which.

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#728 1 year ago

Connector J7 on the interconnect board was replaced and the red wire added which is the power supply to all the flashers. This was then connected to the lamp holders which had been fitted to the insert board.

I would like to apologise unreservedly for the shockingly bad crimps on the wires.

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#729 1 year ago

The coloured wires are connected to J11 on the interconnect board which is unused on the production games but is helpfully labelled "INSERT F/LAMPS"

The Brown/Red wire at the far right had pulled out of the connector J12 below it so I added it to J11 to save me pulling J12. It is for the GI flasher unit on the inser board and nothing to do with the flashers.

The numbers I wrote on the insert board correspond to the solenoid number in the chart below but remember that I used white wires not black.

From the chart all the flashers marked "2" on the insert board are connected to the White/Red wire at pin 15 on J11. All the flashers marked "3" are connected to the White/Orange wire at pin 14 on J11 and so on for flashers 4,5,6,7 and 9 at positions 13,12,11, 9 and 7 on J11.

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At least the crimping has improved!!

#730 1 year ago

It is then just a case of tidying up the wiring with the cable ties and clips.

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#731 1 year ago

I used blue and white LEDs which suffered from horrendous ghosting initially. The picture is of the pin in attract mode with no flashers activated.

Although I managed to improve this considerably over what can be seen in the pic I never completely eliminated it.

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#732 1 year ago

What is causing the ghosting here? I thought that problem was a non-issue by sys11C. I did a major restoration on a Rollergames last year, used LED flashers on all the playfield locations with no problem.

Great tutorial! I have a 5-bank drop target standing by (my game started out as a pile of parts, so I figured just restoring it to good working order was enough of an initial challenge); when I delve back in to install it I will also take on the backbox flashers! matt_adams, I'd be psyched to have a hole-drilling map!

#733 1 year ago

Fantastic Andy, thank you

#734 1 year ago

2 Questions: has anybody else had trouble with their Atomic Whip kickback? Mine frequently will fire the ball pretty wildly, sometimes riding *over* the wireform instead of within it, sometimes weakly not able to push the ball up the wireform to the second solenoid, often giving it 3 unsuccessful tries before giving up. And sometimes it works just right. It behaves worse the faster the ball is going (spin?), better if it's going slowly. Because it sometimes works perfectly I haven't tinkered with positioning; when I looked at it with the apron off, it appeared that the plunger is hitting the ball square in the center. Really frustrating.

I thought I read somewhere that there is a setting for Sudden Death which makes it non-random. Is that true? If so, which adjustment is it? I can't figure it out and don't want to be on a wild goose chase.

#735 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

2 Questions: has anybody else had trouble with their Atomic Whip kickback? Mine frequently will fire the ball pretty wildly, sometimes riding *over* the wireform instead of within it, sometimes weakly not able to push the ball up the wireform to the second solenoid, often giving it 3 unsuccessful tries before giving up. And sometimes it works just right. It behaves worse the faster the ball is going (spin?), better if it's going slowly. Because it sometimes works perfectly I haven't tinkered with positioning; when I looked at it with the apron off, it appeared that the plunger is hitting the ball square in the center. Really frustrating.
I thought I read somewhere that there is a setting for Sudden Death which makes it non-random. Is that true? If so, which adjustment is it? I can't figure it out and don't want to be on a wild goose chase.

From time to time my Atomic Whip doesn't move the ball to the second level on the first try, but it usually makes it on the second attempt though. Rarely though it tries three times and then gives up (draining the ball). It happens so infrequently I've just learned to live with it. I am not aware of any setting to turn off the randomness of Sudden Death (and thought I read somewhere that this is why Rollergames isn't used for official tournaments). If there is a setting though I would definitely want to know as well.

#736 1 year ago

Thank You Andy_B for the flasher writeup. I will for sure be adding to mine when I get to that stage of my restore
Matt_adams, that would be great!

#737 1 year ago

I thought the ceramic resistors on the interconnect board needed to be changed to the ohm values in the manual when adding the backbox flashers?

#738 1 year ago

Just picked up a Rollergames a couple of weeks ago. Have been giving it a good cleaning and tweaking. Everything so far is working pretty well. Fun game with some great features. Ramps, magnet, wireforms, third flipper. Cabinet is faded on right side and a little on the left, but obviously doesn't affect game play. Gonna get the Cliffy protectors for the Pit and the Wall. My wall is beat up pretty badly but is at least holding together. Have done a Titan rubber kit and some LED's. Cleaned and polished up the playfield with very good results. Looking to keep "bringing it back".

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#739 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

My wall is beat up pretty badly but is at least holding together.

You can do a decent fix on the disintegrating ramp entry using Bondo fiberglass resin + fiberglass mesh. Since it's the underside of the ramp and pretty much hidden from view, you don't have to worry about the aesthetics of it. Rebuilds the entry nicely, and you can sand out the repair with 100 grit paper to smooth any high spots.

#740 1 year ago

I added a bit to the existing repair with some epoxy. Should hold well until I get more involved with it.

#742 1 year ago
Quoted from fierodoug:

I thought the ceramic resistors on the interconnect board needed to be changed to the ohm values in the manual when adding the backbox flashers?

You are probably right if using standard flasher lamps but I used LEDs throughout so this was not an issue.

#743 1 year ago

Does anyone have the "rules card" in a file to be able to print? Mine didn't have one when I got it. Obviously this is someone's photo which is why it is angled.

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#744 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Does anyone have the "rules card" in a file to be able to print? Mine didn't have one when I got it. Obviously this is someone's photo which is why it is angled.

I made this rule card.

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#745 1 year ago

Awesome. Thank you so much.

#746 1 year ago

Has anyone found a source for the long shooter lane plastic that always cracks? I'm going to try to make one from plexiglass and discreetly attach it the portion with the stickers. I've searched online, but to no avail.

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3 weeks later
#747 1 year ago

Just picked up a Rollergames last month. Fun machine for sure. Everything was working fine when I got it but had some funky voltages going to the display so decided to recap the power supply. Was getting -/+ 124v on both HV outputs, with ZR4 completely missing on the board and ZR2 having been replaced and looking sketchy. After the new caps and some new 91v zener diodes the positive side was good to go at +91v, but the negative side was still -124v. Stupid me did not order the MJE15030 and MJE15031 transistors which is most likely the problem since I changed everything else around that circuit and still have the wrong voltage. After taking a closer look, someone had stuck an NTE55 in there at some point that has obviously failed. Hopefully once I pop a new one in there everything should be good to go. Also still need to change the 39K resistors but they're pretty close to spec so not urgent. Here's some before and after pics.

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#748 1 year ago

Looks great. I am going to rebuild my power supply shortly. Did you use Great Plains Electronics for the caps? I was going to order their cap kit, but was waiting for them to get in the high voltage kit which is out of stock. Been keeping busy with other items. I've been troubleshooting my 3 bank drop targets which I still have not figured out the issue. Also just installed an 8" sub with crossover, and have 6.5" coaxial speakers to install in the backbox in place of the stock 6.5 and the tweeter. My previous post about the long right side plastic, I ended up remaking a portion of my existing one with 1/8" plexiglass. Did not come out perfect, but at least it is now one piece again. I also remade the mount portion near the shooter rod. Attached both new pieces with 5 minute epoxy. Doesn't look half bad.

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#749 1 year ago

epeabs yeah all the caps from Great Plains, love that place. I think I remember seeing something about cleaning the optos to fix the drop targets but mine work fine so have no other experience. Could be the picture but your magnet looks low too.

#750 1 year ago

Have to look up cleaning optos. I have adjusted the magnet from the manual addendum. If anything, I might be a smidge high. But it works consistently.

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