When did the Pit protector come out? I'll have to get one of those.
OK RG Club, here's a few pics of mine.
Turns out this game sat un-played for 12+ years (as I recall) in OK before finding it's way maybe 4 years or so later to Dallas, TX and later to PA. I picked it up 2+ years ago, in a swap for a SoF (I simply grew tired of SoF's theme).
One pic shows it as it arrived, the other with its current LED'd look. DP playfield, cab inside pristine. I'm fortunate to have found it.
RG_-_cab_bottom_entry_(resized).jpg
RG_-_cab_-_full_btm_(resized).jpg
RG-11222014-JustArrived-web-c_(resized).jpg
RG-Dec2014-someLEDs-Pinside-c600px_(resized).jpg
Quoted from twoplays25c:OK RG Club, here's a pic of mine.
Turns out this game sat unplayed for about 12 years (as I recall) before finding it's way maybe 3 years later from Dallas, TX to PA.
This pic is the day it came through the door about 2 years ago. Been fully LED'd since.RG-11222014-JustArrived-web_(resized).jpg
Looks decent. Great game for the buck IMO. Never posted pics of mine? Here some recent ones of mine after I added some more LEDs to my taste.
Quoted from practicalsteve:Really dig the red, white and blue jet inserts!
Thanks, I thought it turned out nice. Did the 1 2 3 and the A B C that way too. I think those 3 colors go well together on this title
Anyone have the dimensions of the plastic above the drop targets? I wanted to see if I could maybe find a place to have a replacement made even it if was just clear or solid red. The problem is that mine is broken and missing pieces, so I can't measure it.
Steve - I have an intact one (it's a replacement) and will measure for you at the end of the week when I back in town/at my house, or you can just buy one on Ebay. Here is a link to one (note: I'm not the seller, but bought my replacement on Ebay several months ago so figured I would check for you) - ebay.com link: Williams ROLLER GAMES Center 3 Targets Down Pinball Machine Plastic
Just ordered it. No need to measure it anymore.
I may try to see if it's worth it to make a plastic that's slightly larger to go under this one in order to protect it.
Thanks!
If you did and made a few, I'd throw you a few bucks for it. I have a new CPR plastic set but haven't changed out my broken one for fear of the steel ball.
Quoted from Leeb18509:If you did and made a few, I'd throw you a few bucks for it. I have a new CPR plastic set but haven't changed out my broken one for fear of the steel ball.
Cool. Once I get it and figure it out, I'll post here.
The new plastic sets you get from CPR are WAAaay stronger than your old stock plastics and require no additional protection.
But if you really need to sleep soundly at night, just use some clear washers. Pinball Life and many other vendors sell them in various sizes.
Quoted from NimblePin:Pinball Life and many other vendors sell them in various sizes.
I was thinking of that, but I think where the screw holes are located they don't extend out far enough on the drops plastic.
I'm not sure how easy it will be to do and produce, but I'll take a look and start working it once I get the part. I'm thinking that maybe I should also try to do some for the slingshot plastics. I'll keep you guys updated.
Quoted from steve1515:I'm not sure how easy it will be to do and produce, but I'll take a look and start working it once I get the part. I'm thinking that maybe I should also try to do some for the slingshot plastics. I'll keep you guys updated.
Just and update... I've ordered some prototypes for slingshot plastic and drops plastic protectors. I should get them in about a week. Hopefully they come out well.
So, after like 8 months I FINALLY got my rollergames back together and running!!! runs really smooth, I found a slightly cracked ramp on ebay to replace my super broken ramp... cleaned it up really nice and everything, however for some strange reason, my WAR coil fires like 8 times and than doesn't fire to reset war until the next ball... really strange. Havent had time to look into it yet though.
So the first set of protectors have come in.
I currently have 4 drop target protectors and 2 sets of sling protectors. They are made from PETG like other protectors. The drop target protector came out perfectly. ($12 + s/h if you want a drop protector.)
Unfortunately, the sling protectors could use some adjustment on the mounting holes. On mine I had to drill out the holes slightly to get it to line up because my sling plastics are pretty beat up in the mounting hole area. It wasn't a big deal because PETG works easily, but because of this, I'll give those two sling sets away to the first two people who PM me that they want to buy a drop protector and tell me that they want the sling set. The condition on the sling protectors is that you have tell me how they fit, and if you had to modify them what you had to do. I'd like to fix those up for future runs.
Here are some pics of them on my machine...
2016-04-16_12.05.57_(resized).jpg2016-04-16_13.18.35_(resized).jpg
Glad you like the protector.
On mine, I just screwed on the nuts as much as I could. I'll admit, they didn't go all the way down, but that's sometimes how it is with plastic protectors. Mine probably looked like your left bolt on both sides. For the one on the right though, I'm wondering if your post sleeve is a little too high. I've had an issue with some sleeves that are slightly higher than the posts for some reason. Typically, they squish down when the plastic it tightened, but sometimes where there are issues. I've had to cut the sleeves down slightly at times. Can you remove the sleeve temporarily and see if you get more threads to show though? If so, then I'd cut it down. (One thing to note is that since I've switched to Titan rubbers I haven't had this problem.)
Also, if you have anyways that I could improve these for future runs, please let me know.
Thanks!
I will give it a better go later. To be fair I had my four year old in the game room with me, so I couldn't devote more than a few minutes to work on it. Will report back, also have not tried the sling protectors yet.
Ok, had more time to devote to the protectors and I am very happy with them. I did ineed have to cut the post rubber as it did extend a little over the post. I also had washers beneath the plastic, but since I was adding a protector I figured I did not need them so I took them out. I was able to get a grip on the threads with my acorn nuts (it's an atheistic choice I like to make) and feel the plastics are both secure very satisfactorily.
Thanks for the update! Glad you like them.
I like the look of the acorn nuts. I think I'm going to have to order some for my game now too.
I noticed you had a spot light added to your left sling. I'm guessing it's to light up your drop area if it's as dark as mine is. Could you show us some pictures of that spot light and what it's lighting up. I was thinking of trying to add something like that to mine, but not sure of the best method and could use some ideas.
Thanks!
Quoted from steve1515:Thanks for the update! Glad you like them.
I like the look of the acorn nuts. I think I'm going to have to order some for my game now too.
I noticed you had a spot light added to your left sling. I'm guessing it's to light up your drop area if it's as dark as mine is. Could you show us some pictures of that spot light and what it's lighting up. I was thinking of trying to add something like that to mine, but not sure of the best method and could use some ideas.
Thanks!
before you go ordering those acorn nuts they are available at most hardware stores.
I can post better pics of the spotlights later, it was a kit i bought off pinbulbs I believe when they were having a sale, you can just get all the components you need from any supplier though. They pretty much light the middle of the playfield, I used pink as its a little more subtle than white, plus I have a lot of pink LEDS in my game. I think it goes with the theme. I will try and remember to take pics when I can.
Just listed my Rollergames arcade machine in the market place. It would make the ultimate topper I sold my Rollergames pin and this seems lonely without context.
If you are a real connoisseur of fine arcade machines don't click the link. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/34466
When the ball goes in the pit it is not registering. I'm wondering if the contact that goes around the black kicker part is not being pushed down enough.
It seems that the kicker may not be sitting properly. Not sure
Has anyone had this problem? What did you do?
Quoted from galaga50:When the ball goes in the pit it is not registering. I'm wondering if the contact that goes around the black kicker part is not being pushed down enough.
It seems that the kicker may not be sitting properly. Not sure
Has anyone had this problem? What did you do?
I had to bend the two switch prongs that go around the black kicker up a little. Once I did that all was good.
I just received a few more sets of protectors if anyone is interested who didn't get them last time: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/35158
(The drop target protector is $12, and the set of slingshot protectors are $16. That's $28 + S&H if you'd like both.)
What is the proper coil for the VUK
The Manual says ae-24-900 and
ae-23-800. Can someone post a pic of an original Williams VUK coil wrapper. Thanks
Quoted from Razor:What is the proper coil for the VUK
The Manual says ae-24-900 and
ae-23-800. Can someone post a pic of an original Williams VUK coil wrapper. Thanks
I would use the 23-800, it's a little stronger, and helps get the ball over the bend in the wireform. It probably originally was a 24-900 and they found after testing that it didn't always make it out of the VUK, so it was changed to 23-800 later in production...
Either coil would technically work, the 23-800 is just a little stronger...
I can double check what's in mind tonight, mine works perfect. Adjusting the wire form from the VUK can help things too
Almost every VUK I've seen has AE-23-800 in it. Black Knight 2000, Rollergames, Terminator 2, White Water and Twilight Zone. That's not to say they all do. Fish Tales has AE-24-900.
I dug up an old photo I took my the VUK in my Rollergames when I got the game. I removed the zip-tie and replaced the bracket. It clearly shows AE-23-800.
I am going to be putting my RG for sale. Better than average condition but not much. Wear on the magnet. Backbox lighting is out. (Just a fuse?!) lol
I will give a better description and add/send pics if anyone is interested. $1400 obo
I might take a trade offer (straight or +- cash) I just don't want to drive more than 2 hrs.
I will be in Prior Lake MN July 21 if a friend up North would like the game.
Jason
Just joined the club ! Rollergames in the house Have fancied having one for a long time so when a Diamond plate one popped up I grabbed it
Needs a little work ...usual clean up, a few bust plastics, the Wall ramp of course has been battered over the years, someone has patched it up with what looks like fibreglass repair - luckily its all pretty hidden back there.
Playfield being DP is pretty good, though still a little insert wear on a few, and on the area in front of drops.... the magnet area is nice though, barely any wear.
So ....first question ........found this small plastic in the cab. Any ideas where it goes on the playfield ?? Have studied some pics but cant spot it.
TIA skaters!
Quoted from Ive:the Wall ramp of course has been battered over the years, someone has patched it up with what looks like fibreglass repair - luckily its all pretty hidden back there.
cliffy makes a protector for that which helps a lot
as far as your mystery plastic I will take a look when I get home.
How many Diamond plate Rollergames did they make? Mine also has chrome finish wire forms, not colored, was this the standard for DP Rollergames? I need to buy a plastic set and protectors.
Practical Steve, glad you started this post.
Mine is DP and has chrome wire forms too. Unsure how many they made of each
The plastic is tucked under the right wireform, I tried to snap a quick glass on picture that hopefully helps enough, I can remove the glass and take better ones of need be
Quoted from practicalsteve:Mine is DP and has chrome wire forms too. Unsure how many they made of each
The plastic is tucked under the right wireform, I tried to snap a quick glass on picture that hopefully helps enough, I can remove the glass and take better ones of need be
Thanks for the pics .....that's great !
I read that 100-200 DP were made ?
Mine is DP and has a mix ......Blue wireform on the left, Yellow from the VUK, and the other 2 are chrome.
Quoted from Ive:Thanks for the pics .....that's great !
I read that 100-200 DP were made ?
Mine is DP and has a mix ......Blue wireform on the left, Yellow from the VUK, and the other 2 are chrome.
Actually it has a RED wireform on the right also .
Here it is.
Another question.
Sometimes on this machine with Lock ready, a fast ball will actually beat the diverter and then not be locked ? Is this a common issue on RG or should I be able to fix it. Maybe the diverter mech needs stripped and cleaned.
Quoted from Ive:Another question.
Sometimes on this machine with Lock ready, a fast ball will actually beat the diverter and then not be locked ? Is this a common issue on RG or should I be able to fix it. Maybe the diverter mech needs stripped and cleaned.
make sure that diverter is working properly, the spring is a common point of failure. the owner previous to me did not even realize it was broken the entire time he had it. perhaps look at the switches control it as well.
And that coil probably needs a new sleeve since it's such a pain to get to. Most people will pass on changing it out like the 8th spark plug on a Corvette.
Next question RG afficianados ......
Mini post between flippers - I see this on most RG. However this one had a plastic plug in the mounting hole. When I removed the plug it looks like nothing has ever been screwed in there. A virgin hole if you will Did games ever ship from factory like this with the mini post an option for ops ???
I will be fitting one. I love a flipper post.
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