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One cabinet had a reinforcement made and bolted into the corner . There was carriage bolts holding a metal reinforcement . I removed the bracket and the carriage bolts . I repaired the corner by using glue and long screws sunk into the plywood from both directions .
WIN_20200418_13_28_32_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200418_13_28_38_Pro (resized).jpgTwo cabinets side by side the one on the left has been primed and sanded , it’s ready for base coat. The one on the right is the cabinet from post #12 ( same side as pictured before )this is what it looks like after the filler work has been finished and the whole side has gotten glaze coat and block sanded . It’s ready for primer .
7413A5D4-E095-4B03-9B51-1119274BCFCE (resized).jpegQuoted from Coindork:Oh man, those are friggin cool.
I’ll be following this thread for sure.
How on earth did you wind up with two of those?
A friend of mine acquired two . He knew I wanted a robot and he wanted his restored , so as payment for restoring his he is giving me the other one . When this is all done we both will have a pretty nice Robot in our collections.
The original cabinets had a white webbing paint on them , it’s something that I didn’t really notice until I removed the side rails. After removing the side rails I could see the silver color that the cabinets were originally and I could see the webbing. So I demystify best to duplicate what the white webbing looked like from the factory.
And I know I am not the only one that is right now singing Billy Idol’s “white wedding “ and replacing the words with “ white webbing “ in their head .......
I might be singing it out loud .
And these cabinets are going to Neo’s soon for the silk screening .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/zaccaria-robot-cabinet-rescreening-run-happening-now
While the cabinets are with Neo getting silkscreened lets take a look at the playfields . I did strip the better one down ( I am going to leave the other assembled so I can use it for reference while re-assembling ) This playfield is the one pictured in post #4 so as we can see its in pretty good shape with a few minor issues . Here is some pictures of the bottom side before everything was removed .
WIN_20200216_19_06_59_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200216_19_07_05_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200216_19_07_11_Pro (resized).jpgThe flipper mechs had the wrong type of return springs , something that was a modification made by someone ( and not a good one ) In the picture I circled the springs and have arrows pointing to the long wood screws that were added for those springs . I will be removing those screws and springs and replacing them with the proper set up .
flippers (resized).jpgThis is solid advice ,and would be a good solution. I did already go a different route though ,which I will share later . But , as you know , it is a beautiful day in Wisconsin and I am enjoying it while doing a little work outside . Soldering some lamp sockets . I have found that if you solder a little on a new lamp socket before installing it to the playfield you will have a much easier and quicker time when re doing the common wire for the lamp sockets .
38D6887F-C8E2-4328-833D-46D64EA11570 (resized).jpeg9FC1A0AB-4FD9-4617-AC7E-64AEA5359072 (resized).jpegSo this is where I am at .Although this thread was started only a few days ago and shows a ton of progress in a few days this is actually months of work . I will keep posting but things will seem to slow down from here on .
Ok so this is a “ moddity” and I’m pretty sure that is a new word , I’ve never heard it before , and I’m taking credit for inventing it . I define it as “ a modification that is odd “ . A relay added to the reset coil for the drop target bank . Not sure what purpose it serves ? Someone came up with a very creative solution to a problem this game was having ? Someone with more knowledge than me could explain why this is here , what purpose it has .
image (resized).jpgThe wire that would normally go To one of the lugs on the reset coil is spliced to an added wire that goes to one of the lugs on the relay coil . A third wire was added to the other lug on the drop reset coil and that goes to the other lug on the relay .
9EC78604-AD27-43C8-AA2B-2037C0774BB9 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe switch stack on the relay has two wires ( both added , neither was there on the original wiring ) the blue one goes to the lug on the drop reset coil where the green/purple wire was originally. And the yelow/green wire was tied into the cabinet ground .
503544FD-A243-4865-954F-E0E5A07F55C7 (resized).jpegE1D3CBE5-7792-4525-9FCD-77F39CFB94FE (resized).jpegEFF4C2ED-CB73-489A-AFEC-D212824660E7 (resized).jpegQuoted from CaptainNeo:phase 3 is also complete. I was hoping to finish all the red on both sides, so phase 4 and 5 would be done too. But the ink is still tacky. even with a heat gun it didn't dry. So I can't speed up the process. Thought I could. I cannot. So it will have to sit 24 hours before I can flip the cabinets and heads. Otherwise tacky ink will pick up lint and everything else, when I set them on blankets to protect the screened ink surface.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Silk screening is looking great Neo! Thank you for posting progress to this thread !
The relay is only on one of the games I have it’s definitely a mod. I can’t figure out it’s purpose , but I do want to remove it . Dave Gersic did go through the boards on one (maybe both ? ) of these games . I’m pretty sure if the boards are testing to correct specs something like this is not needed .
Quoted from Crash:Where did those awesome cabinet screens come from? Factory surplus?
Neo had them made .
Quoted from dothedoo:The only thing I can think of is the drop target reset coil was drawing too much current and blowing the fuse or the driver on the board was either too weak to fire the coil or kept blowing.
The added relay served as a low-current means to fire the reset coil. An additional power wire was tapped off the reset coil and soldered to the relay coil. The return wire for the reset coil was redirected to the return lug of the relay coil. So when the logic fired the drop target reset coil, it actually fired the relay coil instead. When the relay pulled in it made a connection from the return lug of the reset coil (blue wire) to ground (yellow-green wire), thus firing the reset coil.
Since you have two playfields you can verify the reset coil is the correct part number and you can compare the resistance of both coils to make sure the modded coil is the same as the one on the other playfield.
Yeah so the coils are slightly different, the one on the game with the relay mod is D.50-S.1600
And the one on the other game with no mod is D.56-S.1500
I will swap the coils and remove the relay mod , the game I am currently re assembling will be done long before the other one and I want it to be correct ( without a mod like this )
Quoted from CraigC:I didn’t see that it’s a gottlieb bracket and coil. Probably euro ingenuity
Yep it is for sure a “moddity” .
Picked up the cabinets from Neo tonight , they look great! First color is done I am going to clear coat them so the first color will be protected when the second color goes on .
I have a vinyl cutter , I cut the letters in an adhesive stencil mask stick the stencil on , paint with an airbrush then remove the stencil. It works really well.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:that's a nice tumbler. Is it quiet?
Not really , I run it in the garage though so it doesn’t matter .
Quoted from edward472:Did you make it? Looks homemade
Bangerjay turned me on to this style a while ago . I was actually borrowing one of his for a while before I got my own. They are around $400 but well worth the money they work great and I too have only had to replace a drive belt .
The drop target bank assembly was done in 3 loads .The big plate was in by itself . Multiple smaller pieces can go in together but large ones I do alone , or with something tiny like screws I put in with a large piece . The robot mechs I am doing all the parts for one complete assembly at a time . I usually leave the parts going in there for 2 days , most parts come out great after that . Some may need to go in again or polishing by hand on certain areas .
Quoted from CaptainNeo:why is that bulb purple? you have a gel on it? Is it an LED version? I turned mine off because florescence make ink crack and fade. Thinking about going white LED tube, but I'd have to be able to reduce the brightness to minimize glare.
That is the way it came to me . It is actually a plastic sheet wrapped around the bulb. I think it might be from a plastic folder , it's pretty thick .The other game has something similar but it is red .
Ok so I got the other backbox lamp board out ,I had put it in a cabinet when I took these games apart . I’m going to need to clean and repaint this one soon as well, so I thought I’d take a look at it. On this one the fluorescent tube is painted red , so if that becomes a problem I will just replace it and do something like the other one .
95B1A4CC-3D1C-4883-8666-1DEB4B4B839B (resized).jpegNot sure about that , I thought Farfalla has a neon light that wraps the sides and top of the backglass? I think just keeping a fluorescent light in the robots will be fine .
Since I am removing the moddity that involved the Gottlieb relay , I am replacing the drop target reset coil with the proper one from the other robot ( I will get another proper coil for that robot as well , but taking this one for now as the first game is much further along ).
So I got the coil off the other game and I thought this was interesting, the coil Zaccaria used for the drop target reset does not use a coil sleeve and the bobbin is extended.
It seems as though this coil is unique to this game . Neo looked at Spare drop target banks he has for Zaccarias and none he had used a coil like this .
Quoted from CaptainNeo:untrue, most of the bigger coils I have for zac have the sleeve molded in as part of the coil.
Ah ok , it’s the only coil in this game I’m working on like this . Seems like most coils for the drop reset you had were D50-S1600 (this appears to be the coil used for the drop resets on a decent amount of Zaccaria games )and the coil on robot is D56-S1500 . I’m wondering if there is other games that they also used that coil on , or if it is unique to robot .
Quoted from bangerjay:The drop bank in my zankor has one of those extended bobbin coils, and the damn thing is cracked
Is it a 50-1600 coil ? Or 56-1500 ? If it’s 50-1600 you can have the one I removed .
The one playfield is mostly done , just needs flipper bats put in (and obviously switch adjustments and tweaks once it’s up and running) I wanted to see how it’s going to look in the cabinet so I put it in and took some pictures.
0FBEBBCB-772D-4EA3-ACEF-A9892C93EEA9 (resized).jpegB7920B99-F5D5-494C-9E69-7484C7947ED4 (resized).jpegSide rails , let’s get them looking better . I picked the 2 best to make a set for the first game but they did still have some scratches and dings .
0AE297E9-3A7B-43F3-B72C-C0CAFC4F0471 (resized).jpeg52BC24D1-8598-4025-BAFA-F5A929ED3D3C (resized).jpegFDB63DFF-2717-4AD7-89AA-EEE56FCEA06E (resized).jpegThen I do red then gray scuff pads with the grain , then metal polish . These could be sanded out further with finer grain sandpaper but I think at this point they are pretty close to the original grain pattern and sheen .( I will be using screws to attach these , I just have the one holding it in place for now).
image (resized).jpgQuoted from bangerjay:Yore the man Doug, sorry I didn’t get back to y’all in the coil thing, but you should know by now idg af
No problem, if it’s the size you need you can have it . It doesn’t have the extended bobbin but it’s got a coil sleeve that is extra long .
Quoted from spfxted:Is one of these going to be for sale when your finished?
No , sorry . One of these belongs to my friend ( the one that is further along and will be finished first ) and the other one is mine . Neither of us are planning to sell when these are completed .
Quoted from Jeewiz13:Doug, your my hero. Keep up the good work.
As far as the coil goes, does it use a standard thickness plunger or a thicker one like Bally?
And you are my hero , 3x champion !
That plunger is standard thickness for the drop reset coil .
Thanks Neo , I was wondering if any of the sets pinballlife carried would work . I would have thought maybe the Williams style , but sounds like the Bally style is real close . I may end up getting those for my game , the 2 original side rails I have left are in pretty rough shape .
Quoted from CaptainNeo:if you want to come see how they look, i can show you the ones I put on mine and I have another set that is still new sitting here so you can check them over.
I have an old set of Bally side rails here . I did fit them up and you are correct most holes line up and they seem like they would be a good substitute. I am going to try and save the other original set , but it’s nice to know I have options if they are too far gone .
Quoted from He-Man40:Doug,
If it’s that close to the Bally side rails, I will modify it to make the correct ones. Just give me the old ones to use. Those games are too nice not to have the proper rails on them.
Thank you ! I will bring the other set to you.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You gonna do led displays?
I got them and couldn't be happier.
Gianfri is a God...
I might , if my displays are ok I will stick with the originals. But yeah if I have some bad ones I’d probably go with LED displays .
Both games are getting new power cords , The transformers in these games are slightly different so the power cords are also set up a little different . One power cord goes to the on switch and wires form there plug into the transformer near the front of the game . The cord like this still has the euro style plug on it as well .
WIN_20200621_08_58_11_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200621_08_58_24_Pro (resized).jpgI was thinking I was going to have to repaint the majority of this playfield ( very time consuming ) But pinsider Mitch contacted me and let me know he had a populated playfield that he could sell to me . He let me choose whatever parts I needed and the playfield . This was awesome for me .
Quoted from Jappie:Damn! I don't think I've ever seen a Zaccaria playfield in this condition. Was it played to death? Or did something else happen to it?
Hurrah for Mitch
Yeah most Zaccaria playfields I have seen have held up very well , this is the worst I have seen . A lot of the inserts are burned out . I am thinking the game was just left on for very long periods generating heat and got tons of plays that caused the damage ? Not really sure but there isn’t really any signs that the game was exposed to water (no swelling or water stains)
Quoted from cavalier88z24:I could be wrong but that playfield you got, looks better then the 2 your started with?
Yeah it might be the best of the three , it certainly is not going to need very much touch up . It really is awesome that Mitch had the playfield, I was dreading all the work I’d have to put into the other one to Make it look good.
Quoted from RCA1:I'm not sure how they managed it, but it looks like the hack touchup robot is crying.
A lot of the touch up has Mylar over it as well , which kind of makes me want to cry also .
Quoted from Billy16:I built two Yeti's from the frame up. Great bikes!
Nice! That one is about 15 years old . I’ve been thinking about getting another (newer)one . I have been riding a decent amount lately and have been considering another bike , and I have been mostly looking at Yetis . My friend is trying to talk me into getting a fat bike . I just can’t get into them , they just feel too weird to me . I Could maybe do the in between tire size But I don’t think I could go full on fat . Bikes are fun and just as addictive as pinball . I find myself thinking more about bikes than I do Pinball lately .
Quoted from dothedoo:Sounds like something out of Star Trek IV
[quoted image]
The coin slot bezel is not good for transporting whales though .
The robots originally had grain of rice size incandescent bulbs in them to light them. The robots on the games I have the lights were abandoned and most of the robot targets had shards of destroyed bulbs rattling around inside them so I wanted to light them in a better way using LEDs.
With some help from Lionman I have got a solution that I believe will work very well. It consists of pulling apart a wedge base LED and soldering the wires directly to them and shrink wrap.
B7EA7483-B662-4201-9B44-D661ED67FC96 (resized).jpeg6E797413-8A5A-4CE9-8759-4DB3E4CEED30 (resized).jpeg95F55117-FF24-4653-9B9E-872E7D9478BD (resized).jpegTurned the game on for the first time and I have got lights and I can start a game but no coils are working so it won’t kick out a ball, no flippers etc. I will look into this, but the first of these games is very near completion.
10987D98-9395-462D-9059-A274B1EE00C6 (resized).jpeg5D932A75-683E-4598-978A-0B7E0A5FBE53 (resized).jpegSo it was just a loose connector That prevented all coils from working. Gavin stopped over and went through and tweaked a few things and got it playing 100%. I now just have a few minor things to tidy up and the first game is done.
Quoted from Billy16:Sort of a funny hard tail story: I was riding my full suspension bike (also have a hard tail) out on the trails one day when a guy on a hard tail just went blowing by me on a somewhat bumpy slightly uphill section. I wasn't going that slow, so I was sorta impressed as he pulled away. I caught up to him a few minutes later and passed him as he was pulled over on the trail apparently talking to someone. 20 seconds later he comes blowing by me again! Now I'm getting a little pissed, so I wicked it up and started riding harder. I pushed the guy for 200 yards or so and he pulled over and stopped, sucking gas as I rode by him. Seems this guy only had a few hundred yards of full out speed before he crapped out and had to pull over for a rest! After I saw what he was doing I didn't feel quite so slow...
A constant pace will get you there just as quick as someone bursting and resting.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Looks like a vinyl cutter. Vinyl cutters are freaking awesome, and make airbrushing a ton easier.
Yep ,I use a vinyl cutter for the rings around the inserts. I also used a vinyl cutter to make stencils for the text I re did on the inserts on the other playfield.
Quoted from dothedoo:What do you use for a template on the insert keylines?
I use for this Oramask 813, an adhesive paint mask. It’s more rigid than other masking material and works really well for the rings around the inserts.
Quoted from Mitch:Wow this is just amazing. Glad that playfeild and parts worked out for you.
Yeah the playfield and parts were a huge help for this project, would have been much more difficult without them. Thank you!
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Looks great! Do the little lights work in your robot pop up targets? So fun!
Yeah they work great. I can take some pictures when I get home.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:Nice 2 radicals?
Yep, my next projects. I’m looking forward to getting going on those, radical is such a rad game!
If you'd like to follow my restoration of two Radicals I've started a thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totally-radicals#post-5926128
Cheers
Doug
Got sample side rails from
HE-MAN40. These samples are raw steel to test fit they will be stainless steel for the final version. These are a pretty good fit. New side rails for my game are very close to becoming a reality.
HE-MAN40 is awesome!
Alright, new stainless steel side rails!!!!!! They look absolutely beautiful! I’ve said it before but HE-MAN40 is awesome! The cabinet really looks great with these perfect new side rails on.
076D6005-14C5-4692-9032-C6D41764FFE9 (resized).jpeg09918823-F70E-43ED-94AB-D3E9E71AC94F (resized).jpeg5D85EEF7-F1A1-4E72-870B-C8EB05F6A063 (resized).jpegYou're currently viewing posts by Pinsider trilogybeer.
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