Elkhorn, WI
So this is where I am at .Although this thread was started only a few days ago and shows a ton of progress in a few days this is actually months of work . I will keep posting but things will seem to slow down from here on .
(Topic ID: 268605)
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Robot
Zaccaria, 1985
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phase 3 is also complete. I was hoping to finish all the red on both sides, so phase 4 and 5 would be done too. But the ink is still tacky. even with a heat gun it didn't dry. So I can't speed up the process. Thought I could. I cannot. So it will have to sit 24 hours before I can flip the cabinets and heads. Otherwise tacky ink will pick up lint and everything else, when I set them on blankets to protect the screened ink surface.
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Ok so this is a “ moddity” and I’m pretty sure that is a new word , I’ve never heard it before , and I’m taking credit for inventing it . I define it as “ a modification that is odd “ . A relay added to the reset coil for the drop target bank . Not sure what purpose it serves ? Someone came up with a very creative solution to a problem this game was having ? Someone with more knowledge than me could explain why this is here , what purpose it has .
image (resized).jpgQuoted from CaptainNeo:phase 3 is also complete. I was hoping to finish all the red on both sides, so phase 4 and 5 would be done too. But the ink is still tacky. even with a heat gun it didn't dry. So I can't speed up the process. Thought I could. I cannot. So it will have to sit 24 hours before I can flip the cabinets and heads. Otherwise tacky ink will pick up lint and everything else, when I set them on blankets to protect the screened ink surface.
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Thanks neo for documenting the process. Cool to see. I saw one of these game in person at his trilogy beer pinball party. So I will see the after results too. We were using the game for a beer coaster!
The wire that would normally go To one of the lugs on the reset coil is spliced to an added wire that goes to one of the lugs on the relay coil . A third wire was added to the other lug on the drop reset coil and that goes to the other lug on the relay .
9EC78604-AD27-43C8-AA2B-2037C0774BB9 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe switch stack on the relay has two wires ( both added , neither was there on the original wiring ) the blue one goes to the lug on the drop reset coil where the green/purple wire was originally. And the yelow/green wire was tied into the cabinet ground .
503544FD-A243-4865-954F-E0E5A07F55C7 (resized).jpegE1D3CBE5-7792-4525-9FCD-77F39CFB94FE (resized).jpegEFF4C2ED-CB73-489A-AFEC-D212824660E7 (resized).jpegthese are the times when it's awesome to have 2 to compare with, to double check things and see how it is suppose to be.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:phase 3 is also complete. I was hoping to finish all the red on both sides, so phase 4 and 5 would be done too. But the ink is still tacky. even with a heat gun it didn't dry. So I can't speed up the process. Thought I could. I cannot. So it will have to sit 24 hours before I can flip the cabinets and heads. Otherwise tacky ink will pick up lint and everything else, when I set them on blankets to protect the screened ink surface.
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Silk screening is looking great Neo! Thank you for posting progress to this thread !
The relay is only on one of the games I have it’s definitely a mod. I can’t figure out it’s purpose , but I do want to remove it . Dave Gersic did go through the boards on one (maybe both ? ) of these games . I’m pretty sure if the boards are testing to correct specs something like this is not needed .
Quoted from trilogybeer:The relay is only on one of the games I have it’s definitely a mod. I can’t figure out it’s purpose , but I do want to remove it . Dave Gersic did go through the boards on one (maybe both ? ) of these games . I’m pretty sure if the boards are testing to correct specs something like this is not needed .
The only thing I can think of is the drop target reset coil was drawing too much current and blowing the fuse or the driver on the board was either too weak to fire the coil or kept blowing.
The added relay served as a low-current means to fire the reset coil. An additional power wire was tapped off the reset coil and soldered to the relay coil. The return wire for the reset coil was redirected to the return lug of the relay coil. So when the logic fired the drop target reset coil, it actually fired the relay coil instead. When the relay pulled in it made a connection from the return lug of the reset coil (blue wire) to ground (yellow-green wire), thus firing the reset coil.
Since you have two playfields you can verify the reset coil is the correct part number and you can compare the resistance of both coils to make sure the modded coil is the same as the one on the other playfield.
Quoted from Crash:Where did those awesome cabinet screens come from? Factory surplus?
Neo had them made .
I had them made about 5 or 6 years ago, so I can offer redo's on Robot cabinets. Because every Robot i've ever seen..looks like total complete crap. The silver they used comes off on your hands. Someone has their name or initials carved in the cab somewhere. and usually scratched to hell. Out of all zacs i've seen. Robot cabinets always look the worst. SO it was worth the investment for me, to have a complete set of screens made for this particular game.
Quoted from dothedoo:The only thing I can think of is the drop target reset coil was drawing too much current and blowing the fuse or the driver on the board was either too weak to fire the coil or kept blowing.
The added relay served as a low-current means to fire the reset coil. An additional power wire was tapped off the reset coil and soldered to the relay coil. The return wire for the reset coil was redirected to the return lug of the relay coil. So when the logic fired the drop target reset coil, it actually fired the relay coil instead. When the relay pulled in it made a connection from the return lug of the reset coil (blue wire) to ground (yellow-green wire), thus firing the reset coil.
Since you have two playfields you can verify the reset coil is the correct part number and you can compare the resistance of both coils to make sure the modded coil is the same as the one on the other playfield.
Yeah so the coils are slightly different, the one on the game with the relay mod is D.50-S.1600
And the one on the other game with no mod is D.56-S.1500
I will swap the coils and remove the relay mod , the game I am currently re assembling will be done long before the other one and I want it to be correct ( without a mod like this )
Quoted from CraigC:I didn’t see that it’s a gottlieb bracket and coil. Probably euro ingenuity
Yep it is for sure a “moddity” .
Quoted from Crash:Did the screen maker just reverse engineer the artwork?
no. I scanned in the cabinet , had the colors split and screens shot from stitched together scans.
Robot is an awesome game and worthy of a restoration. Loving the detail in your restore. Great stuff!
Picked up the cabinets from Neo tonight , they look great! First color is done I am going to clear coat them so the first color will be protected when the second color goes on .
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