(Topic ID: 296682)

Robocop: "They'll Fix You..."

By PIN-CPS

66 days ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 57 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 51 days ago by PIN-CPS
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 54 days ago

I've always said - 'the cab doesn't matter if you make sure there's game on either side' (and mine will live chronologically between Swords of Fury and Rocky and Bullwinkle)

In other news... Started on the flippers today, and they were looking real special (welded base plate, welded coil stop, retapped coil stop nuts digging into the pf wood, janky springs attached to wood screws next to the plate, etc etc... Decided the cost to retrofit it with Fliptronic mechs was a wash since I could pocket the WMS coils and EOSes for other machines.

Anyway - that all hinges on the ability to swap the coil out because of the difference in flip design... But found someone had actually bastardized a WMS coil to work in the DE design! (And it was swelled with a brass coil sleeve, I didn't even know they made those into the 90s/00s!). I'll be calling PBR on Monday

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#52 54 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I thought about putting decals on but Retro Refurbs has been ignoring people here in the UK for a while so I decided to keep my money and try and repair the original cab artwork with some frisket, black filler, black paint and touch up etc. But actually I’m starting to like the worn look of the cab which is solid, suits the theme plus I’m lazy!!! Somebody will want a mint one no doubt.

I respect that immensely. I'm going to delve into some touchup work on the PF and apron, but it'll be my first time paint matching and using an airbrush so that represents the biggest risk for me messing stuff up (short of applying decals horribly and having a ruined cab). I had a hard time contacting RR as well. Got my set of course, but never heard back on getting some side blades. Wonder if they're slammed or if it's just a side business?

#53 54 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

I've always said - 'the cab doesn't matter if you make sure there's game on either side' (and mine will live chronologically between Swords of Fury and Rocky and Bullwinkle)
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In other news... Started on the flippers today, and they were looking real special (welded base plate, welded coil stop, retapped coil stop nuts digging into the pf wood, janky springs attached to wood screws next to the plate, etc etc... Decided the cost to retrofit it with Fliptronic mechs was a wash since I could pocket the WMS coils and EOSes for other machines.
Anyway - that all hinges on the ability to swap the coil out because of the difference in flip design... But found someone had actually bastardized a WMS coil to work in the DE design! (And it was swelled with a brass coil sleeve, I didn't even know they made those into the 90s/00s!). I'll be calling PBR on Monday
[quoted image][quoted image]

Really good point, a cab is a cab.

Can you clarify integrating a WMS coil? Is it an off the shelf replacement, or require some modding? Does it also reduce the flipper power, or is that more due to the flipper geometry in DE games? Even with my machine in a messy state, those suckers hit hard when I started it up before the tear-down.

#54 54 days ago

I have had a few DE with William's coils.

#55 54 days ago

So, Williams (and most other) coils are 'parallel wound' - that's why there are three lugs, and when the EOS trips, it pulls power from one winding (the kick) to the other (the hold)

Data East designed theirs to be one coil, and the flipper board in the cab actually strobes the power high for X milliseconds, then drops the voltage so the coil doesn't overheat to act as the hold. No mechanical EOS, all computer controlled.

In my pic above, you can see someone took the thin red wire from the outer lug and pulled it into the middle. I think that's how they achieved it, but being fair I played like 2-3 games as I was getting the electronics fixed (display was whack, tossed in NVRAM, HV section needed rebuilt due to a leaky capacitor, GI repair and repin)... I couldn't make the jump a single time with how it was wired in here, now it makes even more sense other than old and sloppy

#56 54 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So, Williams (and most other) coils are 'parallel wound' - that's why there are three lugs, and when the EOS trips, it pulls power from one winding (the kick) to the other (the hold)
Data East designed theirs to be one coil, and the flipper board in the cab actually strobes the power high for X milliseconds, then drops the voltage so the coil doesn't overheat to act as the hold. No mechanical EOS, all computer controlled.
In my pic above, you can see someone took the thin red wire from the outer lug and pulled it into the middle. I think that's how they achieved it, but being fair I played like 2-3 games as I was getting the electronics fixed (display was whack, tossed in NVRAM, HV section needed rebuilt due to a leaky capacitor, GI repair and repin)... I couldn't make the jump a single time with how it was wired in here, now it makes even more sense other than old and sloppy

Thanks for the succinct explanation. I'll admit electronics aren't my best knowledge base, and this explains coils to me in a way that makes so much more sense now (across different makers).

#57 51 days ago

Made a little progress on the head today. Using Vid's guide, I decided to fill the major dents on the edges with fiberglass resin and chopped fibers.

Process:
1. Drilled pilot holes in all the major holes and divots along the edges of the head
2. Counter sunk holes for the screw head
3. Installed #4-40 flathead screws in all the holes (best thing I had given the lack of wood screws on hand)
4. Bend a metal form and taped it along the edges to make a dam
5. Added chopped fiberglass fibers to the damaged areas
6. Mixed and poured resin

Both sides are complete; going to fill along the top surface and use bondo wood filler for any other imperfections on the head. Next I'll sand it all down and continue filling/sanding until it's ready for primer. Will turn to stripping the cab next.

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There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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