(Topic ID: 331610)

Robocop Restoration and Damage Repair

By Curbfeeler

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by zermeno68
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 1 year ago

Hello. I've had my DE Robocop for going on 10 years now. It's a fairly rare game (1500 units) that has a lot going for it. It's a great looking machine that is fast and fun to play with excellent music and sounds. It also has some solid shots, including one of the most rewarding shots in pinball. Jump a cop car over a Duke's of Hazzard-style "Bridge Out" situation? Yes please!

Unfortunately, almost as soon as I brought this pin home a transistor shorted out and locked on two 906 flashers under the playfield. Before the bulb glass shattered, they managed to absolutely nuke an insert that is right in the player's view. No way around it; that's basically like gettin' shot in the crotch.

Most of the playfield (including this insert) is protected by factory mylar, so to even assess the damage pulling the mylar is in order.

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#2 1 year ago

With the mylar off it's obvious that the insert is completely cooked. The first thing I'll do is fire up my Silhouette Cameo and try a quick proof of concept. I want to be sure that recreating this art is even inside my skill set. A bit of time in inkscape and we're cutting our first sample. My amateur opinion is that this insert should be do-able.

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#3 1 year ago

Let's head over to the CNC. Unfortunately these inserts are no longer available, so we will have to make this one ourselves. A few years ago I made a few sets of hotdog inserts for friend's STtNG, so I know this is possible. I use a 2.5 mm single fluted "o-mill" that is specially designed for plastic, and it cuts like a dream.

It takes me two tries because my stock is about 1mm taller than the original insert, which surprisingly was also just a solid chunk of acrylic. I cut a "step" into the bottom of the insert, and the result is an exact fit. At this point I am very confident that this is going to work and we're going to get a nice end result.

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#4 1 year ago

The past couple days I have been scanning and stitching my playfield and creating airbrush masks that I can cut with my silhouette cameo vinyl cutter. Stitching the scans was unfortunately a manual process and took me quite a while to get right, despite trying to line up the edge of the scanner with the edge of the playfield during the scanning session.

I have most of the "surface area" traced for the masking, but of course I have saved all the most complex masking for last, so I'd say I'm about 60% done with the Inkscape work at this point. Hopefully will be cutting masks on the cameo by the weekend.

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#5 1 year ago

Welp, this ain't good. I did a test fitting of Anne Lewis just before bed. I'm using oramask and the same transfer tape I've used in the past, but I've never had paint pull up like this before. The only thing I can think to do is to try to get a layer of clear down before I touch this playfield with any kind of adhesive, but this stuff was not very tacky and that paint just peeled off like it was nothing. I barely lost any paint when removing the mylar, so I was not expecting this at all. Yikes!

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3 weeks later
#6 1 year ago

Wow.. curbfeeler.. impressive work.

Is it an idea to share the CNC data for reproduction.
More and more we will have to re-make our own plastics etc.
Either by CNC and/ or 3d printing. I don't know if the is copyright on it.. but i guess not.

Keep going !

#7 1 year ago

Man, there’s a Robocop machine at a bar near me and it is in dire need of work like this. It’s to the point that I’ve considered trying to buy it off the owner, as it definitely should not be used in tournaments in the condition it’s in.

Keep up the good work!!

#8 1 year ago

Joining to see your adventure. Nice touch on explaining some of your workflow and what products/techniques you’re using.

I don’t have room for a CNC machine, but 3-D machine is possible.

Keep it up!!

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