Quoted from athenspin:

I found this flap from Bay Area amusements, not sure if it's the right one or not?

Quoted from athenspin:

A previous owner of my Robocop used some very stiff wire and weaved it around the posts and let it stick out enough to stop that from happening. It’s very effective!

Quoted from Thehipster:

Help needed.
My lock ball ramp spring flap has split (see pics). I have replaced it temporarily with a piece of lexan which seems to be working really well but I don't think it will have the staying power that the original metal one had.
It measures 2 1/4 inches by 1 1/4 inches and, as with everything else Robocop pin related, they are like rocking horse poop. I have found one in the Netherlands which is shorter at 1 3/8 inches (this is marked as a replacement for a 'Scared Stiff' pin playfield part).
I don't have a micrometer so I was hoping someone on the forum has and would be able to measure the thickness for me. I would then buy the steel sheet and cut it myself.
Marco supplies a piece of 0.006inch thick blue spring steel which I think would do but it would cost me $40 plus for the shipping to the UK when the item is only $5.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Are you needing a wire gate, Vec-tor? I think I could make you one. It looks less complicated than the Catacomb gate.

Quoted from Thehipster:

I don't know if you got your flap printed and made but I made mine today and it turned out that the flap is not scale critical. I cut mine slightly out of line but it works perfectly. I just made sure that the screw holes were in the right place. The trimmed shape isn't critical either.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I have version 3.4. Did not know there was a 3.5.
Sound problems
Turbo sounds: Those cool sounds that come from the slings and pops.
1) My turbo sounds come and go depending on whether I hit some particular switch, or not. I like the turbo sounds and wish they were on 100%.
2) Inlane switch behavior: With a fresh ball on the play field, and the first pass through both of my inlanes, the inlanes will not will not register a sound. On the next pass through an inlane the sound registers correctly and will continue for each inlane pass thereafter. After the Ball 1 drains, the same behavior returns for ball 2 and then Ball 3.
I do not know if any scores are being registered when my inlanes are silent.
Are we talking about the same thing?

Quoted from gdonovan:

Something new to try, very interesting!
So last we left off, Robocop has POTO MPU roms installed so I can test the switches. When I hit the switches regardless of speed between locations, a sound effect always goes off. With the Robocop MPU roms, several switches will "drop out" sound effects but the MPU is still seeing the switches as the score goes up, lights fire, etc.
Chad suggested instead of proceeding switch to switch rapidly during testing trying waiting 5 seconds between pressing the switches. To my surprise, the sound effects worked perfect every single time. When you rapidly rotate through them like when you are playing a game they drop out again.
Try cycling through your switches with a 3-4 second delay between locations and report back, I think ChadH is onto something.

Quoted from Thehipster:

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have

Quoted from Thehipster:

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

Quoted from Thehipster:

These are pics of my much needed decals.
The first is Emil as he was with burn marks. The second is my amateur attempt to recreate him. I cut the old decal out with the tip of a craft knife and it came off very easily and then scraped off the adhesive powdered residue. I am going to do another and my daughter is going to paint in the white shadow by hand (she is a bona fide artist). The dark marks on the right of the picture are on the burned out insert underneath.
The third pic shows Jones and Boddicker. The white cloudiness is the dried out adhesive under the decal and it scrapes off with a craft knife. Their inserts are burned out too.
If you look closely at the Boddicker and Emil decals you will see that the true circle of the decal is in the white handcuff design. I am going to make my replacement like those. Since I have never attempted or know how to change an insert there are exiting times ahead.
I have ordered three new 1 1/2 inch inserts from pinball center in Germany and I hope they fit (another item that is not readily available in the UK). [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Thehipster:

The assemblies are fine and I have given them a clean (no mushrooming on the plungers and the sleeves are fine) and they are working without a hitch. Don't get me wrong they work okay but they just don't seem to have that extra oomph.

Quoted from topkat:

Does anyone know what plastic goes in the spot on the back rail. Under the wire form drop and to the right
Thanks[quoted image]

Quoted from topkat:

Can some please confirm that their jumpers are the same ? I don’t need a photo just confirmation.
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Thehipster:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Hey cottonm4 , are our sling coils in different orientations? And does that matter? I’m still fairly new to pinball so forgive me if this is a noobish question lol.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Three items.
!) I did not like how weak the spinner is on Robocop. One reason, IMO, is the spinner is making its scores with a micro switch. I'm thinking that little switch button creates drag so I replaced the microswitch.
[quoted image]
I replaced the micro switch with a vintage style blade switch set up. I am getting much better spins now. It helps to improve the score since I am getting more spins. This mod does not seem like it make the scoring unbalanced.
[quoted image]
I had to move the mounting holes and reposition the blade switches but there is plenty of space to allow the swap to happen. The mod is easily reversible should I change my mind.
[quoted image]
It does not match the spins I get on my solid state pins but it is better than it was.
=====================================================
Some time back I installed Titan rubbers on my Robocop. I like Titans, but I just changed my slingshot rubbers back to the old-style whites. The Titans seemed to get stretched a little smaller when wrapping around the sling post just above the flippers and made shooting post passes a little more difficult.
The old style whites are just a little better with post passes, IMO.
===========================
I have had me share of headaches with the flippers on this pin. Sometimes they kick like mules and other times a flipper could barely knock the ball the distances of 2 or 3 inches. Flipper problems with Robocop are a known problem. DE eventually replaced blade style flipper switches with mirco switches for the flippers.
My situation would be my flippers were hitting hard and then just go soft for some reason I could not figure out. My right flipper got really bad the other day. I checked the plunger and installed a new sleeve. This was no help. It would be hot for one or two flips and then go ice cold for a couple of flips. Hot then cold. And repeat.
My flipper blade gaps were in spec but I figured I would try something different. I closed up the gap between the flipper switch blade contacts with a gap that is about the same measurement as a business card and that has seemed to have solved my "weak" flipper problem. And now they are kicking like mules again.
============================
I need to get back to work. I am going to swap my older ROMs back into the machine and see if that cures the issues of some switches not registering on the first rollover in an inlane. I hope this will bring my sounds back.

Quoted from cottonm4:

In other news, I got my right hand flipper back and hitting hard. I closed the gap between the flipper blade switch contacts. Just making contact did not seem to be enough. It needed good, hard, positive contact. If anybody runs into some flaky acting flippers you might consider trying to close the switch gap to the barest minimum.
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

This is video I made of Robocop going nuts. I am at a loss with this.
Before it got to this point, I starting getting callouts for the upper right hand saucer such as, " I like it!. And the upper right hand saucer started trying to kick out a ball that was not there.

Quoted from Lostcause:

Robocop on the playfield is what colour they should be and clearly not. Original plastics match the blue Robocop colour.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Lostcause:

The switch under the pop bumper has 2 switches, one for the pop bumper solenoid and the other for scoring points.

Quoted from cottonm4:

New problem shows up.
I will be playing a game and everything is rolling along. All of a sudden, my game dies and the ball drains. I push the credit button and can start a new game successfully.
This just happened to me again. This the 4th time.
What is causing my Robocop to go dead in the middle of a game but yet let's me start a new game as if nothing has happened?
Thoughts are appreciated.

Quoted from Lostcause:

Adjusted flipper switch as close as possible but still has the issue, you can see a 18 secs and 20 secs when it goes weaker.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't think those ramp protectors will do anything you you at all with the current construction. The way I see it is that the ball impact energy to the protector is just going to be transferred to the ramp itself since the protector is mounted to the ramp. The protector needs to be mounted in such a way that ball impact is transferred to something else behinds the ramp.
IMO, some sort of mounting devise needs to mount to the post so the post can take the impact.
The one on my Robocop was cracked when I bought it. Some idiot piled on a crap load of glue thinking that would do some good. It didn't. I ground off a lot of the glue but could not get it all and the ramp was still just as cracked. The crack did not hurt performance but it was and is ugly.
[quoted image]
To keep it from cracking any more I had to buttress on the backside with some polycarbonate plastic (Lexan). This "repaired" the crack and made the area stronger. But I located a non-broken ramp and now use it. But I also buttressed my replacement with some poly on the backside. Now it is good and solid.
IMO, this is what you need to do to keep it from cracking anymore. If you look carefully, on the other side, the inboard side, you can see another crack I did not see until just now. With the ramp, the cracks on both sides have originated from the edge off the holes the locate the rivets that hold that thin piece of metal. I just now really noticed that; I am going need to do this buttress work to my unbroken ramp so it does not wind up looking like this one.
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

Vex-tor, where can I buy this bracket at?
Is this something that Steve at PBR would have?

Quoted from Thehipster:

Thanks for taking the time to post these. They look like mine so I am reassured.
The only thing which seems odd is that on mine there is no 'resistor' between the cap and the lug but since it worked fine for 2 years I'm guessing it didn't need it.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Did you make yourself a wooden block to back the targets with?

Quoted from cottonm4:

I have found what I need to convert to micro switches for flipper switches. It is neat looking setup. Trouble is the 535-5866-00 bracket seems to be NLA. I can get the blades, rivets, screws, and the switch. It looks like I am going to have to make the bracket unless I can find some used one for sale. I don't even know which DE pins used this setup.
My right flipper just keeps keeps kicking me in the ass. I am going to pursue this.
If anybody has any knowledge about these brackets I am all ears.
Thanks
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5251-00
[quoted image]
I think I will take this to the DE thread.

Quoted from topkat:

Solved
Ed flasher is on the pf...

Quoted from Shogun00:There's your problem. You need a resistor for those capacitors in order for them to work properly.

Quoted from cottonm4:

But neither the cap nor the resistor are shown on the drawing anywhere that I can see. So, unless you just know they need to be here, you will be clueless with looking at the prints.

Quoted from PopBumperPete:

i have the remains of stickers on the flippers
it looks like it did have words, but they have faded away
what was printed on these? as i do have a label printer that should do the trick