(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to

By JCJP

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,953 posts
  • 122 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 76 days ago by mad_carl
  • Topic is favorited by 44 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

RoboCop (resized).png
IMG_5028 (resized).jpeg
Screen Shot 2023-11-15 at 9.32.40 AM (resized).jpg
20231021_134249 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20230907-160615 (resized).png
cn8 and 9 (resized).jpg
cn8 and 9 2 (resized).jpg
20230820_094642 (resized).jpg
IMG_7293 (resized).jpeg
20230813_172213 (resized).jpg
MPU004.pdf (PDF preview)
Pinside_forum_7704045_0 (resized).jpg
20230807_161942 (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2023-08-07 at 7.45.08 AM (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2023-08-07 at 6.49.04 AM (resized).jpg
16913159548263188604343872213635 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider topkat.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#270 5 years ago

Does anyone have extra sling plastics?
Used or new
Thanks

#271 5 years ago

Ok looks like I will need more than just that one. Please let me know if you have any to sell
Thanks

#273 5 years ago
Quoted from tonedef131:

Retro Refurbs makes a mini kit of some of the more commonly broken plastics. It says backordered but I just got a set shipped to me a couple weeks ago.
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/robocop-plastics-set/

Thanks. I put order in for those and the set in Germany from pinball center
Hopefully if those groups there will be some good ones

1 month later
#278 4 years ago

Not sure how to officially tell, but Ive tried to find the monopoly ramps that are long gone and they have sold close to double of what listed was...( have seem them listed for ridiculous prices, but didnt actually sell)
If less than double probably worth it...? if you are keeping the robo

#281 4 years ago

300 is allot for a 125 item..
I cant imagine he will get a bite at that price..I could see 250 max and that seems like a gouge at that.

2 months later
#295 4 years ago

How did you decide the correct placement for the new holes/ and deflector?
Ive wondered if just a different deflector would help that bounce
Thanks for finding a fix..

#299 4 years ago

definitely contact freeplay40 to discuss the ramps. I know he wont do robo since its low production, but if you have desire to make one he can direct

#304 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

My robocop,had it for awhile now and loving it[quoted image]

I love both your titles..Black out is way underrated title as well. Its back when 1 million was allot of points. Robo had 9 years of increased tech so more bells and whistles.
Cant imagine parting with robo or blackout

#314 4 years ago

Do you have the tools to make the ramp? It seems like its not an easy process and certain items are needed...but thats just from me looking at threads

1 week later
#327 4 years ago

Is there a rottendog flipper board for data east? Be nice to have something as backup

#329 4 years ago

I guess I was thinking get the nw board and see if that solves it? Or is it a certainty that’s the issue

9 months later
#548 3 years ago

I’ve reviewed the thread but can’t find a suggested led replace for the Ed 209
It almost looks the leds that go in an ardino board.
Finally had time to pull this apart

1 week later
#585 3 years ago

So looking at my def it seems as though allot of hits on the top edge. Wonder if that should be bent up? If it hits that edge will bounce right out. Thoughts?

A8C893A9-257C-45D3-96B1-77B39FC126CF (resized).jpegA8C893A9-257C-45D3-96B1-77B39FC126CF (resized).jpeg
#588 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This is Robocop thread. What is a def? Where on the play field is your ball stop located? Can you pull your camera back and take a longer range picture so we can see the area you are talking about.?
Thanks.

Hah. I know where am.. at least as of now. That’s the deflector for the upper right saucer. The one that was discussed a bunch needing the foam or being bent because the ball bounces out 9/10 times
I was holding it out of the machine .. that’s a rug in in the background
It looks the ball was consistently hitting the top of the deflector vs the back.

#596 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Sorry. I could tell anything with your pic.
If I am looking at it correctly, it looks like your ball is going airborne and hitting that stop before it ever lands in the saucer. I am having trouble visualizing this.

No reason to be sorry. When i looked back at the pic it’s a shitty pic. Also looks like Pinbot background.
Somehow the ball is hitting the top edge of the deflector, as you said, and not the back. I am thinking if I bend that upper part up, maybe it will allow the ball to hit the back of the deflector. Will be trial and error.

3 months later
#722 3 years ago

Does anyone know what plastic goes in the spot on the back rail. Under the wire form drop and to the right
Thanks

5A5EC3F1-0E29-49C7-B99F-1B64FD66382E (resized).jpeg5A5EC3F1-0E29-49C7-B99F-1B64FD66382E (resized).jpeg
#729 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

[quoted image]

If you end taking that back jump ramp off, it’s the plastic right underneath on the back rail.( under the word delta city)
I can’t tell from
The photo what it looks
Like. Thank you

Figured it out. Thanks

#732 3 years ago

I finally got my robo together. Trying to test everything and one issue is after you make the jump the ball gets to the top saucer. On the second jump the ball it elects from the saucer below the ramp and runs into the ball into the top saucer.
Trying to figure it’s a flakey switch on the top saucer or the one under flap..?

78EE07DD-F4C0-4E48-AE52-F558435007BC (resized).jpeg78EE07DD-F4C0-4E48-AE52-F558435007BC (resized).jpeg
#734 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'd check the top switch for continuity first. If that switch does not show closed it would cause the 2nd ball to get kicked out. I'm not sure if the saucer switches are leaf switches or micro switches.

ThAnks
That’s where I will start. Spent allot of time getting it together. I started testing switches during a game and everything seemed to register except for that issue.
It’s a micro switch for that saucer .. will check it mannana
Thank you

#736 3 years ago

I will
Look at the switches again in test mode. Not used to data East test menu

What’s the sequence for multi. Upper saucer locks first , left saucer locks second. Then on the third jump does the ball goto to the vuk and release the two locked

#739 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Sometimes!
If there is one call for an arrest, the ball will sit in the "second lock position" right below the drop. If there is two or three calls for arrest, the ball will eject from position two to the upper lock position one. Odd programming quirk.

Ok. So I get the first ball to go through the sequence, but ball 2 ejects from its saucer when it shouldn’t . . I still get a ball Into the shooter lane..:
The switch registers correctly in test( top saucer) is it possible bad diode would cause the game to think the first locked ball isn’t there anymore? And that’s why ball two ejects

#740 3 years ago

Would like be sure I have things correct on the spinner. Is this the direction the spinner. hook goes?? Thanks

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#747 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

What is the CPU code indicated on start up? Also do the sound board roms have a date on them?

I have the same glass express issue on a Dirty Harry and funhouse...

#758 3 years ago

I am still trying to track down my lock eject issues
Somehow I didn’t see that left sling is not registering in switch test
The cap and resistor for the left sling are on the opposite switch as the right sling
Does anyone know if that is correct ?

27A6CAF4-7613-44F4-9280-1962C011C3D2 (resized).jpeg27A6CAF4-7613-44F4-9280-1962C011C3D2 (resized).jpeg
#761 3 years ago

The sling was not my issues. The cap and resistor can be on either activating switch

I will get a look at the scoring tonight to see if it goes last 7 digits

#762 3 years ago

Only 7 digits

#763 3 years ago

I’ve read 2 different ways the ball lock process works. I had thought that when the first ball falls through the trapdoor during arrest it will get kicked from the left saucer to to top one..
But another had posted that the ball is to stay in that saucer below the trap door and not kick up to the top lock untill the next arrest mode. That way if you make the ramp shot without activating arrest again the ball bumps the locked ball and goes back to the playfield via the vuk
As i am chasing a issue, can anyone confirm the correct path? Thanks

#768 3 years ago
Quoted from tullster:

Yup, second way is how it's supposed to work.
I posted a fun strategy (post # 432) where you lock two balls, then light the ED209 shot. Shoot the ramp to collect ED 209 Million and start Multiball.
And to anyone rolling the score you've got it set up too easy. Robocop needs to be set up fast & brutal!

Then I think I need to investigate more around switch 28 wiring, or board, since its kicking out ball one. I had been thinking switch 29 ( top) was signaling incorrectly, but that probably isn't right.. thanks

#773 3 years ago

I’ve narrowed ( maybe widened) my lock eject issues. In coil test every coil does fire but , it also fires the eject at the same time as another.
Saucer 28 gets ejected two other times and 29 once. I will check all coils for shorts... if anyone knows what this means please let
Me know

#776 3 years ago

If anyone can snap a photo of the ppb
Board. I want to make sure mine is not missing components

#778 3 years ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Decided to give robocop’s backbox a freshen up. The cabinet is fairly clean, but the head had slight planking on the one side, and chips and dings all over. So I removed it from the cab. Filled the divets in with extra strong wood filler. Sanded it all down, minus behind the boards and the robocop and data East graphics. Then I painted the inside, front, top and bottom with a small brush and small foam roller. Then I used low tack frisket sheets to cover the robocop and Data east graphics. I then used an exacto blade to trim around all 4 decals , roughly 1/2 a centimetre from their border. Then I roller painted the sides. Before the paint dried I carefully removed the frisket material. Then using a very fine brush I touched up the decals red, black and grey graphics. Then I gave everything a nice even spray of clear coat.
Lots of steps involved, the most I’ve ever done for a paint job, but I’m very happy with how well it’s cleaned up. I’ll post before and after shots.
Before/during:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
After attaching frisket material and trimming around graphics:
[quoted image]
End result:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great. I started scrolling from bottom up and thought why is he messing with it, it looks brand new.
If I get mine working I may add this to the my list.

#779 3 years ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

For sure, Robocop’s backbox m is just sitting beside me. Now I just need to figure out which board is the ppb....

It’s the bord on the bottom... the solenoids plug in. Has a bunch of white resistors ..

#781 3 years ago

Not the best photo but this one
I thought it was ppb but I could be wrong

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#782 3 years ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Hopefully this helps. If you need closer up shots let me know. Mine was playing fine before I disconnected the head...
[quoted image]

Thanks that’s it... they look the same. Was hoping mine had a missing component

Thanks again

#784 3 years ago

Can some please confirm that their jumpers are the same ? I don’t need a photo just confirmation.
Thanks.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#786 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, what jumpers? Which board? Is this your PPB? I can go look but need to know where.

Likely It’s me sounding like the idiot with confusing posts

Sorry it’s the mpu. Kind of in the middle/right. I read that there are supposed to be jumper j4 installed and j5 uninstalled for robo but I am confused about the other jumpers. Just trying to rule out someone hadn’t swapped a board from another machine.

#790 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I do not see any kind of jumper(s) anywhere on my MPU.
The part number of my board is 520-3003-02. The P/N is located in the upper left of the board.
EDIT: You might sit down and study this link for Rococop repair and troubleshooting. Actually, what I really suggest is that you print every page on this link and load the printed pages into a 3-ring binder. There is. a lot of information in here and when printed it looks like an old time phone book.
I printed this out because I consider it The Source for DE pinball repair and did not want to not have it if the internet disappeared. This well written repair guide took me by the hand and told me how to repair my dead score display unit. It told me what parts I needed and gave part numbers, too.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

Thanks. I have tried reading through that, and it is full of great info. I couldn't find anything directly related to my solenoid issues...but I guess I need to dig deeper into it

#792 3 years ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

topkat
Here’s those pictures you requested.... I think lol.
If I took ones of the wrong connectors let me know. This is j7, j8, and j9 (though j9 was hard to get a decent pic of).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thank you that will help me verify

#794 3 years ago

This is a shot in the dark. But if anyone gets a chance ... the ppb board has a relay coil with a small diode right below it, it’s on the upper right.
The diode reads open both directions for me in circuit. When I clip it, it tests good. I am just curious if that’s the norm when it’s in circuit.

6 months later
#1346 2 years ago

Finally got my robocop working. No more firing of the eject holes at the wrong time.
Does anyone have fix for when the ball keeps hitting the left pop and then the rubber straight to the left of it? Mine will get in a loop where i have to move away.
Thought maybe put tiny rubber on the one of the metal pins behind the rubber to change the bounce angle ?

#1354 2 years ago

My remaining issue is a non working flasher under Ed. My boards were just repaired, and there was a bad lamp driver that was causing all my issues. The socket looks Corroded so I think i will replace it.
Does this wiring look correct ? The mini leds do work.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1357 2 years ago

Solved

Ed flasher is on the pf...

#1359 2 years ago

Yes so in fact 3 flashers were out.. The one under the ed unit and then the ones under the pf for ed and special. All three had bad sockets.
I had thought in test, the Ed flasher was the one under Ed himself. When I look in the manual, to me its not as clearly marked which each flasher is which compared to other titles..

#1360 2 years ago

Does anyone know where to get the twist sockets for the flashers. I ordered a bunch from comet bc it said 906, and the bulb fits, but the diameter of the socket is too small for board. The metal tabs aren’t long enough either. Marcos has some but they look like the comet ones..?

#1363 2 years ago

I couldn’t tell if those were the same ones I ordered previously and were too small. The ones I ordered last week looked like they should have fit..and I didn’t think if there was a subtle difference there would be an issue.
Thanks for confirming they work.

2 weeks later
#1366 2 years ago

If you need flashers sockets for Robo look carefully. The ones that fit some of the their titles dont necessary fit robo. I had someone look through a box of sockets they had, and the data east games seem to vary slightly..

#1371 2 years ago

I’ve got it down to one flasher not working even with the new socket and the driver board functioning. Does the lamp board have a diode for the flasher. I need to pull
The board ? Can’t be much left to check.

1 week later
#1372 2 years ago

Can someone tell please tell me if their connector in back box looks like this
One connector has wires in every slot the other doesn’t.
Thanks

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1394 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I am trying to work through the logic of what had happened with the sling shots.
When I first began exploring the switches (taking the whole assemblies off the board) the only one that was suspect was green target 4 although all the switches needed a good clean. This is the same switch that caused me a problem previously with 1. fast scoring, then 2. the skill shot 209 lights dropping out.
I took the slinger assembly off the board and when I was replacing it I dropped a hex screw. As usual I could not find it and used a spare.
I then tested the slingshot switches and they did not fire the coil and I got frustrated and left it to the next day.
The screw must have shorted the row of switches. Then when I put the playfield back down the screw must have dropped and lodged in the right bumper switch, cutting out the pop bumper and allowing the slingshot to operate.
I took the screw out of the switch and everything has been fine since.
Weird as hell.
Has anyone else had this experience?

I sadly somehow left a hex driver on the lower pf of black hole. Eventually it shorted a switch. Not the same but similar

#1395 2 years ago

I finally have all my flashers working. Replaced with leds as well.. Man the back box has allot of flashers..
If someone runs into an issue with flashers make sure to check the ceramic resistor on the ppb board. That was my problem and I missed it for a long time.

#1398 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have had 4 or 5 flashers from Comet just blow the SMD disk completely off of the flasher assembly. Would this resistor be the reason for that happening?

I'd check the resitance on the resistors to be safe, but I admittedly don't know enough about all they do to tell you if thats a possibility. sorry

#1399 2 years ago

I have an issue where the ball gets stuck , or in a loop, hitting the pop and the rubber.
I Am curious if either a second rubber would help or a post sleeve on one of the metal pins next to the switch. Any thoughts?

9CF3AD00-A1B5-4FB2-9C3D-B22767E5D0EB (resized).jpeg9CF3AD00-A1B5-4FB2-9C3D-B22767E5D0EB (resized).jpeg
#1403 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Agree with above, if you are lucky you have a enough time to drink some ice cold beer

I had to do something bc once my ball gets in that spot it won’t stop bouncing.
For the first time I was able to use my dads old advice, and I put a second rubber on.
The extra tension keeps the ball from getting stuck. I imagine every machine is different and for most it is not a problem.

#1405 2 years ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

I get it too on my machine, but it breaks free a few seconds later.
Either use a second rubber or switch the white rubber out with a black one. Black rubber is less bouncy compared to white.

Thanks. That’s very good info as well..
Once mine gets in there it’s like a perpetual motion machine... and my game is wedged in to the point that removing the glass is headache.

1 week later
#1431 2 years ago

For those who haven’t added a lexan deflector in front of the yellow target bank, I highly rec if your machine has air balls.
I’d say it cut my glass clanks by 90%…

#1436 2 years ago

I see the problem with the my deflector, I cut the length back too much..
So does the wood block just give support to the back of the targets, absorbing the force from the ball?

#1437 2 years ago

I see the problem with the my deflector, I cut the length back too much..

the block is probably even better

#1443 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:Yeah, the deflector needs to extend out from the targets at least 1.5".
Yes, the wooden block sets right up next to the "L" angles and keeps them from bending backwards. The backwards bend is what causes the airballs. Stern did not design Robocop to have all these destructive airballs and Stern did not distribute defective Robocops. It is just that over time on route that the "L" angles bent backwards and now the ops had to deal with all of the broken plastics.

Thanks for that info. I was able to bend the metal backings straight again. Added some foam as well. No longer have any air balls...but as someone mentioned the ball can fly back at you very quickly..

11 months later
#1629 1 year ago

I am having an issue where after we make the ramp jump, and the ball rolls down the flap, it doesn’t always make it to the lock hole. Shoupd I bend the flap more up or down? Any thoughts

#1634 1 year ago

So my angle is 7 degrees .. via iphone
Here is a photo of the flap

A57D312C-4304-49FE-8F7F-7B1E50C4BD25 (resized).jpegA57D312C-4304-49FE-8F7F-7B1E50C4BD25 (resized).jpegA9EC3FC2-C5EC-42E6-8BCF-9666A811E6EB (resized).jpegA9EC3FC2-C5EC-42E6-8BCF-9666A811E6EB (resized).jpeg
#1636 1 year ago

I checked the flap again and it is solid around the screws. I had thought it was fine bc I did have the ramp out last year as well.
As you said the flap is responsible for getting the ball to the lock, so either I need to tweak the flap more, adjust the machine pitch, or maybe move the foam to allow for a smoother roll down.

Thanks for providing all that information.

4 months later
#1712 1 year ago

What type of foam is used to slow the ball before it leaves the flap for the lock. I have been getting insulating foam, but I don’t believe that what used before. Mine is deteriorating with every jump.

2 weeks later
#1714 1 year ago

I had some success adjusting the ball deflector for the saucer. I bent it forward slightly, and put a layer of foam on the deflector as well.
After that I have had 19/20 balls stay in the saucer.

2 months later
#1725 1 year ago

I had to adjust the middle saucer ejector. (Change the trajectory)
After doing that I now get a random ball ejected into the shooter lane.. not all the time and no pattern. I would assume something got disturbed in the trough switches? Or if somehow the ejector shorts the saucer switch would that cause an eject?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Asheville, NC
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
Pinball Machine
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider topkat.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-club-if-you-own-one-or-use-to?tu=topkat and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.