I liked this idea so much I did something similar with mine. I have some matrix strip leds on the way from Comet. Just got to decide where to put them. Oh and I am going to attach an easy clip on red led to the red hand-cuff lamp socket and put it under the car so that people who are under my height can see when Dick Jones is in custody.
robo (resized).jpgrobo2 (resized).jpg

Puck here is the link for Vid's guide to Rebuilding Pop Bumpers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

Do you mean the green flasher or the one in the very bottom corner?

IMG_20200314_203507 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200314_203451 (resized).jpg

These pics show my car mod with added led strip under the ramp decal.

I am away from home until Wednesday so will get a pic then.
It might be better if you send me a pic of where it isn't on your pin.

Seems cotton 4 has beat me to it but I'm gonna have a look out of curiosity.

Me too. No evidence of a socket being there. Mine is deep within the ramp structure in the top left corner of the playfield.

Deleted post

Yes that does happen on mine. I just thought it was a glitch and it doesn't spoil the game for me. Mine also gets confused when fully loaded with locked balls and the 'everything lit' feature starts. When this happens the pin takes longer than normal to launch the balls back into play (so the countdown for the everything lit feature is at about 8 or 9 seconds by the time it starts.)

I took mine apart last night and I do indeed have a flasher under 209. I could not find if it worked or not. Can you tell me when in the game it comes into effect. I think I might have a faulty socket but if I know when it should fire up I can check it in game play.

I have tested the flasher lamp in the back box and it is working fine.

Thanks for the gif. I am pretty sure that doesn't happen on mine. I will test it tonight.

My skill shot option gives me a chance with the amount of pull back I use on the plunger. A small amount gets me the 9, even softer for the 0 (after messing about with the rubbers on the 9) and full on for the 2.

My two flashers the one under the cop car and the one under the 209 do not work. I tested the lamps and they are fine. All wiring is intact and I want to chase the wiring back to the board.

Do you or anyone else have a playfield lamp matrix chart I could look at. My instructions were downloaded and the matrix is on page 34 where my booklet only makes it to page 31. I am scouring the internet for a picture of one but I have been looking for well over an hour atm to no avail.

I just had a thought. I didn't check the fuse.

I think I have found the problem. See pic. But without a diagram I am unsure which gap to push it I to.

IMG_20200320_182025 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200320_182123 (resized).jpg

Thank you very much for that. There is no reference to the top left flashers either but I suspect that the stray wire is the culprit. I will need to tra e it which means the top left upper playfield will have to be removed because the sockets are riveted underneath.

I think I see what you mean. Where the tip of a purple wire is showing but there doesn't seem to be anything coming out of the bottom. Am I oorrect?
I am off to work before the UK goes into lock down.
Hold the phone!!!! Thank you guys. Problem solved. It always amazes me how simple things can cause so many problems. It was the loose wire and it was from the connector point that KBZ identified. All looking good now.

Hold the phone!!!! Thank you guys. Problem solved. It always amazes me how simple things can cause so many problems. It WAS the loose wire and it was from the connector point that Kba identified. All looking good now.

I am gonna save this cottonm4. It has scanned really well as you say.

I just spotted the top left flasher on this schematic. I was reading it upside down. And it was the place that I reconnected the wire. Thanks again.

I thought I would share a gif to show that all was up and running after replacing the violet/grey wire into the connector but I can't get it to run sorry..

gif (resized).png

I had to resize the gif but I think I have got the hang of it now. Learning something new everyday from you guys.

flashergif.gif

I have had a set on back order / their waiting list for about three months and I purchased a set this morning.

My plastics are just about done so they will be far better than what I have. From the set I won't install the flipper lane plastics as they are the first to go. My ramp sign is in two pieces which are glued and taped together (funny though it looks okay) so I might change that, might not. My yellow target plastic has been moved so much without taking all of the screws out that the decal has pulled away from the plastic so I will swap that (and it has faded from even the lighter blue that it was when it was replaced first time round (not by me)). I will keep the other pieces for when I sell the pin, which will be NEVER.

I managed to crack the corner of the 'graffiti wall' plastic (not in the mini set) but it happened in such a way that it turned the corner into a concave curve which fits the place I have it on the pin fine.

I don't know how the guys who make these things can't get the depth of colour right. Maybe someone can tell me the process. I have original pieces of plastic all over mine that could be sampled and used to get that colour restored.

Although because this pin is getting rarer (some people on these forums will be quick to point out NOT THAT RARE) these plastics will disappear soon. When you think I paid £134.00 ($159.00 US) for a alpha numeric 16 digit display £67.00 ($80.00US) shipped is quite a lot to pay for these plastics.
graffiti wall plastic (resized).jpgleft flipper bumper plastic (resized).jpgleft flipper lane plastic (resized).jpgramp plastic (resized).jpgramp plastic rear (resized).jpgright flipper lane plastic (resized).jpgyellow target plastic (resized).jpg

The first time I saw this I thought it was a great idea but I couldn't find the material in the UK for a reasonable price.

Bought it. Thanks.

I have finally lit my ramp jump cop car. It is lit by matrix leds from Comet Pinball and connected to the corner white 44 lamp with a bayonet matrix adapter which has a white flex led in it that you don't lose the original lamp effect in the corner.
I am waiting for a small blue led to place on top. I placed a small piece of mirror tile vinyl sheet under the red 'Dick Jones in custody' light which reflects what is blocked by the car for people who are not as tall as myself. It is just a bit of fun but I like it.
copcar-ramp-jump.gif

Will do thanks for the tip.

I lit my flying cop car with a blue light. I think it looks okay

IMG_20200327_183512 (resized).jpg

I know that extra ball lights if I complete x5 multiplyer and then one extra by lighting the three 209 lanes again and I have it set at extra ball at 2.6 million score.

I love this idea but I have had a look at where it is located on the playfield and it does not appear to be in an area where it would be easy to light. How did you do it?

I took on board your relocation idea for the TV. Did you do this?

IMG_20200331_102454 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200331_102518 (resized).jpg

It was a cool idea so thanks for that. Just ordered a cool white spot light for behind it. The bracket on the spot should sit on the now freed up spacer. Fingers crossed.

These pics are slightly out of focus but it shows the lit 'buy that for a dollar' TV.

dollar3 (resized).jpg

dollar2 (resized).jpg

dollar1 (resized).jpeg

The out-lanes light extra ball if you get a 5x multiplier then get an extra multiplier from the 209 lights at the top of the playfield. So essentially they light up on the '6x' multiplier. When this occurs the pop bumpers rotate the lane lights and you can also alternate them manually using the flippers.

The random selector right lane awards extra ball attempt light (I think that this can be modified manually on the expanded audit (AU 12 then AD 17 expand adjustments) to a percentage of the amount of times the ball locks in the random sequencer and you can definitely set the maximum amount of extra balls (E AD 23) awarded in the expanded adjustments too).

The right lane hit 7 times (lighting the word ROBOCOP one letter at a time) in one game will light the extra ball light.

Finally got my 'more substantial' ED209 on the pin. Lit using the original leds which were simply glued onto the underside of the existing ED209 with 'flexi' glue (probably old epoxy) which just peeled off.
I extended the wires and hid them behind the leg structure.
The model stands on two hi-tack self-adhesive (Velcro brand) hook and loop circular pads, one under each foot which holds it rock steady and allows it to be easily lifted off when required.
The positioning also exposes the 'Toxic Waste' sign more-so than with the original, behind the ED209 and on the side of the left ramp, and allows it to be lit by the full beam of the flasher (under ED209).
The red band on the left arm of the ED209 is not by design but was an elastic band holding the led in place until the glue set. I liked it and left it on.

ED209 on machine (resized).jpg

Forgot about that one. On mine it is below 400k.

I have just discovered that during multi-ball you can get the Jackpot score up to 1 million very quickly if you hit the yellow and green targets during the event.

Does anyone know where I can buy these inserts, any colour but preferably the original (picture borrowed from Bay78). They have rounded edges (the decals make it look as though they have hex-style ends) and are about 3 and 1/4 inches x 1 inch. I can't find them on my searches.
Also I have noticed the 'Arrest' inserts at the foot of the right ramp need to be removed from the top of the playfield as they seem to sit in a rebated or counter sunk hole. Does anyone have any experience of removing these who could give me some tips as mine are pretty badly melted and alter the run of the ball.

insert (resized).jpg

I used a craft knife to remove the damaged decal area and epoxy glued the holes caused by the heat but it left the plastic mottled in appearance. The mylar came off very easily.
I think the insert thing may be to complicated for me if I have to cut away all of the decal. As you know getting decals for Robocop is just about, if not impossible.
I will post a pic of what I did with some self adhesive plastic sheet tomorrow, problem being that it is glossy and I need matte finish. I am waiting for some dark blue transparent acrylic self adhesive sign sheet in dark blue. Then I was planning on putting a self made matte decal on top of that.

The guy made that look easy. What was he spraying on to the surface?

That looks great. I used the plastic that cottonm4 recommended me to use for the air-ball stopper on the yellow targets. Your lexan looks more robust. What thickness is it and how did you cut it?

I don't know if this is relative to this forum but I have a humming sound in the background when playing Robocop (I don't have the volume very high). When I first got the pin the sound was much louder but I found that the large 'capacitor' on the power board was hanging off. An engineer secured it and soldered it back on (before I had a clue how to even switch on a soldering iron) and the sound went away almost entirely.
The humming/buzzing seems to be coming from the speakers which are grounded really well so I don't think that it is a grounding issue.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Has anyone any idea if it is as simple a fix as replacing the large 'capacitor' (I think that is what it is) or any advice on how I test this part. It is the large, silver cylindrical part on the power board.

I am re-posting this post to see if a picture will help me get some help.
I don't know if this is relative to this forum but I have a humming sound in the background when playing Robocop (I don't have the volume very high). When I first got the pin the sound was much louder but I found that the large 'capacitor' on the power board was hanging off. An engineer secured it and soldered it back on (before I had a clue how to even switch on a soldering iron) and the sound went away almost entirely.
The humming/buzzing seems to be coming from the speakers which are grounded really well so I don't think that it is a grounding issue.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Has anyone any idea if it is as simple a fix as replacing the large 'capacitor' (I think that is what it is) or any advice on how I test this part. It is the large, silver cylindrical part on the power board.

powerboard (resized).jpg

Thanks gdonovan. I read the first two pages then page 11 and that was very informative. Basically I can live with the slight buzz.

I have the white in the in and out-lanes and blue in the slingshots which I like. I think too much of the blue gives a ultra violet effect which can be overwhelming. Might just be me.

Because I only have one pin and RC is it I have messed about a lot with lighting. I tried blue at the ED209 multiplier lights with blue posts and that was quite good but when I reverted back to cool white with the blue posts I thought it looked fantastic. I have yellow leds under the yellow targets and green leds under the green targets.
I put a red led strip in the out-hole to warm up the bottom of the table a little and an amber strip on the shooter lane.
I have illuminated my new ED209 with a cool white spotlight because it was very dark because it is somewhat larger than the original and I put a white led strip in the '3rd locked ball' pop lane (it was really dark over there).
I'm leaving it at that for now.
Oh, I also put bright white flexy leds behind the speaker sign because I saw someone on you tube do it during a restoration and thought it looked cool. It sometimes reflects in the glass but I don't find it a problem.
I like playing it best at dusk. That is when it looks at its best in my humble opinion.

Does anyone know which typeface is used on the '3. UPHOLD THE LAW' decal? I am trying to reproduce it using transparent self-adhesive sheet.

Update! I have found a site that identifies fonts (or tries) and if it can't find it you get options of fonts that are similar. Quite clever really.

Is this one any good? It magnifies really well on photo viewer. I took it off my pin and after scanning I tidied it up in photoshop. If it is any good I did all of the small plastic set except the ramp sign.
Robo-target practice (resized).jpg

I love the blue rings but it is hard to get anything other than white, black or translucent in the UK or Europe. I have transparent/clear lane guides at the 209s with cool white lamps and blue posts. It looks icy when the sun is down but here's what it looks like on a dull spring day in the UK.

209 (resized).jpg

Cottonm4 I know what you mean. I have a brother 4120 ink jet printer. The colour is correct but faded from scan to decal paper (see pic before I touched up the damage on photoshop and they look like new now). I am waiting on some matte white label paper and I thought that if the colours were okay I would put the decal on the top of the plastic and then protect it with lexan. I might even experiment with other colours and see how they turn out.

Scan_20200427 (resized).jpg

Help needed.

My lock ball ramp spring flap has split (see pics). I have replaced it temporarily with a piece of lexan which seems to be working really well but I don't think it will have the staying power that the original metal one had.

It measures 2 1/4 inches by 1 1/4 inches and, as with everything else Robocop pin related, they are like rocking horse poop. I have found one in the Netherlands which is shorter at 1 3/8 inches (this is marked as a replacement for a 'Scared Stiff' pin playfield part).

I don't have a micrometer so I was hoping someone on the forum has and would be able to measure the thickness for me. I would then buy the steel sheet and cut it myself.

Marco supplies a piece of 0.006inch thick blue spring steel which I think would do but it would cost me $40 plus for the shipping to the UK when the item is only $5.

spring flap1 (resized).jpg

spring flap2 (resized).jpg

UPDATE!! Thank you once again Cottonm4. I have located some 0.006inch at https://www.pinballshop.nl. They are in the Netherlands but they are my preferred supplier now due to the quality and service of three previously delivered orders and superb communication on their part and they have a great range of parts.

I think the 0.1inch metal is for ramp entrance but I would like someone to confirm this.

The sheet is 6" x 6" and is labelled as blue spring steel flap material. They are a supplier who goes a little further on their website with descriptions of the products and what they can be used for. Their shipping service to the UK is about 3 days which is fantastic at the present time.

I find that most of the suppliers expect you to know the exact specification of the every product (no room for beginners at all).

I thought it would be a good idea to put a couple of washers on the lexan but they reinforced the plastic so much that the weight of the ball would not drop through (and I did it twice with 2 different sized washers).

I have just been playing it for about an hour and the pin is working as it should. I would recommend the Lexan as a stop gap but I am looking forward to the metal arriving.

I have just scanned this so it should be the correct size if printed on A4 paper.
Scan_20200430 (resized).jpg

Forget that! I have just saved it from here and printed it on A4 paper and it is about 5% smaller than the actual flap.
PM me and I will send it to your personal email address. That should keep the size to scale.

Yeah. I didn't mean to tread on your toes. You are totally correct and it does make sense since my flap was already off the pin. I find the left ramp the most difficult part of the playfield. Not many screws but they are in awkward places even with the correct tools. Plus the off ramp is hard-wired in and short of taking off the wiring I find that it is an awkward area to work in (I have been in there a few times in the last 6 months).

Good idea. I am going to do that. I have enough wire there I think. I will probably do the right ramp wiring too.

I printed these with my inkjet printer (bit of bleeding but nothing too bad) onto transparent self adhesive sheet then stuck it to 3mm Perspex and covered with matte white paper. I cut them out using a jigsaw with t-blades T101AO and hand-sanded the edges. They are now on the pin and look okay and are an adequate substitute after paying £67.00 for my manufactured set which I am saving for the day I sell the pin (probably not in my lifetime).

I did the same with the other plastics too and it all worked out at about £9.00 per set and about 4-5 hours work.

The only problem I find is that the self adhesive glue creates a slight texture and isn't completely clear.

Can anyone recommend the quality of transparency sheet to use to allow crystal clear transfer?

plastic (resized).jpg

Funny you should say that because the two slingshots show diffused light through them and I have decided to put another layer of matte white on them (upping the cost by 70c). I will take a pic when done.

These have blue leds under them. The right one is the new bought plastic. The left one is the one I printed and stuck to the plastic now with two layers of matte white underneath. There is no yellow line through the centre of the left one it is a reflection. You can see the clarity of the part numbers is better on the manufactured new plastic but they are not too different. The right one has a protective layer of lexan over it.

left (resized).jpg

right (resized).jpg

I don't know if you got your flap printed and made but I made mine today and it turned out that the flap is not scale critical. I cut mine slightly out of line but it works perfectly. I just made sure that the screw holes were in the right place. The trimmed shape isn't critical either.

The light freezing happens on mine too. I think it must be a common thing.
Question. When the pop bumpers power the ball into the random award generating hole (firing right from the left hand pop bumper) the sound on mine does not operate (the display scrolls randomly with no sound, sometimes maybe I hear the swooshing sound very quietly in the background) but it works every time the ball goes into the hole via the right side tunnel. Does this happen on yours?

Also I find that the various sounds over take each other depending on what is happening on the playfield. A classic one in when it could be saying 'I'll buy that for a dollar' and then the ball goes up the spinner channel and cuts the vocal into a machine gun effect regardless of which part of the sentence is being spoken.

Could you send me the link to your remedy for the stop at the random generator hole please.

Mine boots as Robocop 4.0. What could that mean?

Will I find the OS on the chip?

That ball stop mod looks great. If I get tired of it bumping the ball out I will do it. I can live with it for now though. Looks like a days work.

No I don't have a chip burner. I am old and rickety and still living in the olden days . I don't think I will ever own a chip burner sorry.

All of the sounds are good on mine. The 209 lights do not sound on the first ball down (unless you hit the skill shot lane) but everytime after that there is a little 'ring'. There is no problem with the police siren on the inlanes or the pop bumper side rubber or the pops.
I took a pic of the chips which I think are A3.0 (original?). Maybe your idea of using the A2.9 might be a good call.

AO3.0 (resized).jpg

My Robocop boots as A4.0 on boot up but I don't have a chip reader or know how to use one. Sorry.

a4.0 (resized).jpg

I got to the ball stop today and it looks quite easy to move but I thought that I would try a foam pad first. It has certainly improved greatly but I am after a 99% stop so I am going to move it tomorrow. The only thing that worries me is that I don't really want to modify the metal stop itself. Is this essential?

Thanks I appreciate the advice. I am going to adapt it and see what happens. To be honest mine works quite well as it is. I will keep you updated.

3 Questions.
I have been trying to manufacture a '3. Uphold The Law' decal to replace the damaged one that I removed when I repaired the burnt out insert.
I have been ink jet printing both self adhesive white matte paper which looks okay but is not waterproof and transparency but the printer does not print light grey on transparent sheet and this comes out as virtually no colour when I background it with the dark blue and when put it onto the existing dark blue of the insert the wording disappears.
Question 1. Would a laser printer create the grey I need on a transparency?
Question 2. It's a long shot but does anyone have a scaled scan of the actual decal? Otherwise it is trial and error for size of text and I am already frustrated with it as I have searched far and wide for the typeface/font.
Question 3. Are these decals available anywhere? I think this question has already been answered by the fact I have not been able to find any in the last eight months.

I have been wondering, after more than a small amount of research online, why there were (supposedly) only 1500 Robocops produced? The normal production run for licensed movie or tv show pins is between 7,000 and 11,000 and sometimes more than 20,000.
It just seems such a small amount. I don't know how the movie performed in the USA but it was massive in Europe.
Could it be that it was something to do with Data East buying, selling or merging the company at the time of its' manufacture or could the company have backed away from the high financial implications of licensed manufacturing.
I am curious because the only downside I find about the low production number is that it is virtually impossible to have the opportunity to restore mine to new.

That seems like a lot of work. I wonder why it took 10 months for the guy to need them (and then lose them, oh dear) but, then again, if he was doing a full refurb. For both of you to misplace them is a small catastrophe. I'm sure that they will turn up. If they do I would really appreciate the '3. UPHOLD THE LAW' scan as Robocop is the only pin I have at the moment. I am sure that you have checked your pinside pm files?

Thanks for that I have pm'd Bay78. Thanks cottomm4.

Here are a couple of queries.
1. I recently changed my DE flipper bats, the right one was cracked. I provisionally changed the right bat with a generic one until the new set arrived. Shortly after that the left bat started sticking in the up position. I took the assembly off the machine and cleaned it down. I found that the coil sleeves could not be removed. I don't know if some coils come like this or whether they had 'melded' onto the inside of the coil shaft (the right flipper coil was the same).
Anyway I re-installed it and it worked okay. I thought that I would order a couple of new flipper coils and installed them. Now my right flipper VERY occasionally sticks when I am holding a ball in the flipper. I have tested both diodes and they are fine.
2. I also installed black 'Titan' rubbers on the bats and the slingshots. The flipper rubbers are awesome and I would recommend them highly as they do not show any 'flaking' on the sweet spot on the tip like less expensive rubbers do. However the ball would not go down the in-lanes because the rubbers were fatter than normal. I put my old rubbers back on.
Help required!

I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. I will let you know how it turns out.

UPDATE! - I have moved the slingshot posts and the rubbers are working great. They are far superior to the two sets I have had on it thus far and moving the posts was the most productive 5 minutes of my early pinball life (well that and stumbling across a dangling wire in the back box which turned out to operate two flashers that I never knew that I had). Thanks again for the tip. It will be Titan all round from now on.

I am working on getting the colour of my amateur plastics to be the same as all of the original plastics on mine but they are a 'turquoise' colour or 'aquamarine'. I have tried altering the colours on photoshop, lowering the blue and increasing the green and while they look okay on the screen my inkjet printer is having a problem reproducing it both with the printer deciding the colours and with Photoshop deciding the colours.
I think that I am going to have to strip the left side large plastic off the pin and scan it.
I will publish the scan on here to see what you guys think about the original colour. The new manufactured plastics seem to be erring towards more of a mid to darkish-blue colour.
I would like to know if my fellow RC pin owners have the same colour on the other plastics as me.

They look fantastic.

It would be nice to see if you could get them like the original. I have been making plastics for about three months but it gets a little tiresome on the jigsaw. I am trying different thicknesses of Perspex. I have used 3mm and now I am trying 2mm.

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have. They are probably water jet cut. Or laser cut.

I have added some design changes to mine just to personalize them a little.

I really need to take my scans to a print shop to get some quality printing and clarity or buy a laser printer. They are not expensive but the toner should be renamed liquid gold. I priced a printer at £99 and the toner was £147.

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

Flipper assembly question:-
I have recently changed the coils on my flippers.
Everything is working okay but I have noticed while finding how-tos online that 'normal' flippers have an end of stroke switch and a spring on the side of the pivot arm.
On mine the spring is on the plunger as in the pop bumpers, between the pivot and the coil sleeve and there is no end of stroke switch. Is this correct?

Thank you...…….again

I am on the verge of adapting this stop but I cannot find the drop dead foam anywhere (there is no foam on my stop atm). The link you sent is out of stock. I am trying to source something similar. Any ideas? Do you think it will have some impact without the foam if repositioned?

Wow! Lucky me. When I stripped the top corner of the playfield I found the original or replacement foam under the 'road' plastic, rammed between an led and a spacer. A friend replaced the lamps with leds about 7 months ago. How did he miss that? Maybe it has worked loose since. I have glued it onto the stop and put the stop in its' original position.
Before I found the foam I had moved the stop forward and drilled the holes but it was worse than before with about 50% ball stopping (this was without modifying the stop).
In it's original position with the foam it has 90% stop rate.
I am going to modify the stop and reposition it tomorrow and see if it gets that magic 100% catch rate.

Yes I know. I am committed to adapting it. The foam was like the type I have edging my playfield on to the lock bar so probably not on from the factory.

I agree about the short life span and that would explain the small production run of this pin. I sent a linkedin custom message to Joe Kaminkow the other night asking him why the run was short and guess what? Yeah he has not replied lol.
But the short life span theory sort of throws doubt on the manufacturers integrity. I mean surely they want to be the best at what they do and produce the most memorable and playable machines that they can. Or am I being naïve?
I understand the need to produce money makers but it must be counter productive to make the game overly frustrating and impossible to play.
I remember playing STNG and The Addams family in a local pub when they were new to the market and I 'mastered' them both in a short period of time and I loved playing them. My money went a long way on those two pins much to the chagrin of the local pub landlord.

No post

IMG_20200601_220257 (resized).jpg

I am quite pleased with my home made OCP decals and clear pop bumper caps. I like the way you can see the mechanics when the bumpers are operating

For information.

There is a guy on Ebay parting out a Robocop. I don't think he has many parts left. I have had contact with him and bought the left side plastic with the yellow broken target decal and the larger blue plastic part that sits under it. The playfield has gone and the inserts were with it (bummer) but there are some good pieces left. There are none of the most sort after plastics but the right hand plastic and the back plastics are all there. AND ONE RIGHT HAND SLINGSHOT PLASTIC. He is also selling the left hand wire form and a few assemblies with coils like the out-hole coil assembly.

Just search Robocop pinball parts. They are all there.

He seems like a good guy and is closer to most of you guys than me. His prices do not seem unreasonable. I think he is in Florida so the shipping is prohibitive for me in the UK.

I have been messing around with colours on my home made plastics and decided to reverse the original colours from my bought plastics on photoshop. What do you think? Please don't feel the need to comment on my poor tooling. I only started using a jig-saw three months ago.

left slingshot yellow (resized).jpg

right slingshot yellow2 (resized).jpg

I have posted before on this issue. The only sound on mine that 'drops' is the first rollover (and then they ring every time) on the 209 multiplier lanes unless you hit the skill shot lit lane which gives a fanfare and light show. All of the pop bumper skirt switch sounds work every time as do the in lane sirens and the left hand of the pop bumper rubber slings. Oh and the gun shot flipper sound is not instantaneous it comes after a couple of flips.
I wish there was some way that I could read these chips but it is beyond me. An engineer in the UK is welcome to come read them but I think that they are thin on the ground.

Welcome.
I got mine last year and didn't know where to start with certain fixes and just general advice. It was my first pin.
You will find great help and advice from the people on this forum. They have been fantastic with their time and patience with me. I can't thank them enough. When I bought the pin I thought that I was buying a playable game (it was sold to me as 'refurbished' from a dealer) but it had so many issues that I had to seek help. They have helped me with electrical and mechanical fixes and have given me the confidence to carry on loving my Robocop and a zest for wanting to own more. It plays well now and I spend at least 4 hours a day either playing it or working on it ( I can only afford this time while in lockdown in the UK). If it wasn't for this forum I would have given up in the early stages. Rock On guys!

Help!
When the random award generator gives POPS3000 the pop bumpers, when hit, light the flashers under the ED209 and in the top left hand corner under the ramp. My top right popper has stopped activating this action at the moment while the other two are fine. It had previously been fine.

I have checked the wiring and everything is in place (nothing loose or missing) and it had been working fine until today.

I had been working on the yellow target switches as two wires had come loose. Could this affect the lack of flasher on the pop bumper?

Have I wired the switches okay (see attached pic)?

switch (resized).jpg

I am beginning to think that the right hand popper has never lit the flashers but it just appeared that way when the ball was vigorously bouncing between the three bumpers.

I have read and re-read this tech help. It is a concise and thorough guide. I have printed it off and I will refer to it on many occasions in the future. The person who compiled it is knowledgeable and intelligent. I take my hat off to them. Anyone who has a Data East game should do the same thing. I have learned so much using this reference.

It must be the angle I have took the shot. They are all the same with live beige to unbanded side of diode and the wire out of the banded side of the diode to the centre lug and the green wires to the rear lug.

I like this idea because the short time lapse makes the game even more difficult than it already is (my audits show a 60% hit 'Special' rate).
Because it is my only pin I am getting fairly good at it.
I have it set to hard rules but with an extra ball at the four backup replay levels 3.5m - 4.7m - 6.5m and 9.5m. I also have the 1meg targets at 4 hits (which goes to 5 hits for the second 1meg and then 6 and so on)and the special everything lit at 3 ramps. I have the random hole set to 40% extra balls too. Without this the game is impossible. I might have to go extreme hard rules with no buy-ins to get a true test of the machine as I regularly roll the total.
Incidentally I have never had an 'Everything Lit' award from the random generator only a 'Light Special'.
I never got around to adapting my random lane stop. I was about to start on it when I was shopping for parts and I stumbled across the type of dead stop rubber that you had mentioned before (see pic). It was very inexpensive and in the UK so I thought that I would give it a try. It stays in the hole 99% of the time. Super fast, slow or medium pace.

blue rubbber (resized).jpg

The random hole is what I call the top right lane hole because it randomly generates awards.

I don't know if you are aware of the following but...…..
With the green service button in the up position switch the machine on and press the black button once. Factory altered will appear on the dot matrix. Put the green button in the down position and press the black button twice. The first press will show AD55 Factory Restore the second press shows AD16 High Score Reset on the screen. Return the green button to the up position and press the black button again and you will see AD17 Expand Adjustments. Press the start game button and you will have the access to the finer adjustments such as set replay levels and setting the 1meg target to however many target hits (green, yellow or red) you need to light it. The same goes for the amount of ramp shots you need to light the special light. I am pretty sure that you can alter the time allowed to get to the special ramp shot to make it a little more reasonable.
You can also set the target level and the spinner if I am not mistaken from easy to hard and the same with the re-light laser kick from easy to hard (I assume 'hard' will be more than one hit on the channel ball).
You can also set what type of award you would like for hitting the replay scores and for getting the 'special'. There is extra ball, certificate or credit (and the amount of credits can be altered in here too. So you can refine you gameplay. I just use trial and error.
If you did not know about these then you are going to be in for a pleasant surprise.

By the way, the next time you get a Pops3000 award would you take a look at the pop bumpers and see if they all light the top left hand flashers when hit as only two of mine do it.

Here is the link to one of my preferred suppliers in the UK for the rubber.
https://www.pinball.co.uk/spares-accessories/blue-bumper-pad-23-6629/

Replied instead of editing my own post sorry.

If the shipping is prohibitive I will get it and post it airmail to you at no extra cost to you. Just let me know.

I have just seen that Cyroute has found the stuff at Marcos.

Yep that is the exact same rubber and it definitely works.

They are good plastics. A word of advice when putting them on (which I am sure you don't need) do not over tighten the nuts, plastic or otherwise, as this will crack the new plastics. I found out the hard way. Especially the nut that holds the left hand wireform to the slingshot.
You will find also that if you do not protect them with lexan or put safety measures in place to stop air balls they will break frequently. When I first got mine I broke both slingshots, the graffiti wall, the ramp plastic, the right side base plastic and the centre yellow target plastic in the first couple of months.
Message cottonm4 if you want a cool protector that stops the yellow targets from flying balls all over the machine. I used it and I have not had one problem with plastics since.
You will also find that it is not too difficult to make your own using 3mm clear perspex, self adhesive transparencies and a decent printer and a scroll saw. (I say this as I make my own that are passable but not great and I am no craftsman). I can send you scans of all of the main plastics if you need them.
You will find that you will have a lot of questions about this pin but luckily you will find the answers on here. Good luck with your Robocop.

Has anyone had to do this with a rubber band to pull the 'leg' wires together and stop the ramp plastic from moving back and forth when hit by balls that take off at the base of the ramp or is there a better 'fix'? ( I don't have a riveter or rivets, hence the bolts ).

20200704_095053 (resized).jpg

Yeah the rubber bands pull the two upper loops inwards and keeps the sign in position. It is super effective but the ball very occasionally jumps up and hits the band. Even if I bend the wire into the securing holes they work their way loose.

I have never seen those rivets before. Would it be the same rivets on the metal entry ramp on the right ramp? There are a couple on the 'grafitti' sign too and one on the toxic waste sign. Are they all the same type?