Robocop
Data East, 1989You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lostcause.
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Just about to leave to pick one up just over 4 hours away, bit of a project. All working and plays, boards clean, playfield good, cab solid but shabby looking so paint or decal needed. Not seen under the playfield and hoping it’s not too bad under there, the suspense is killing me!
Just got back, battery on my Connect went flat. Did the deal got in van and click! Luckily the guy gave me a push and it started but thought damn I need some fuel. We went off to gas station put some in and click, another push and off we go.
Anyway looks good under playfield, had a game and working. Was in dry storage for over 20 years, lady did a deal on some pins to the guy I bought it from who flips pins.
Will get it in tomorrow and take some pics, it’s missing the red fresnel but has the blue 
Guess these are unavailable.
Beer time!!!
Got mine in from the van, let it sit in the room for a few hours as it was cold and damp in the van.
All working it seems, all mechanics a bit weak so needs rebuilding, kickback was good though.
Cab speaker is popping, hopefully a worn out speaker.
Let the journey begin to restore this classic!
Can’t wait to play it properly.
AAC5FE67-C4EB-4FBE-8471-0DA42B46BD0A (resized).jpegFEF0EF53-66A6-40A0-95A1-0F52A1D074D3 (resized).jpegThanks guys, sounds like the speaker to me but if not I will check those connections.
The displays work perfect, just a bad pic.
Only thing so far is the left sling shot is not working, wires look ok underneath. Will look into that.
Need to order me a load of mech parts and flipper rebuild kits, want to get it all good then strip it down for a proper clean.
Will also get a set of decals from retrorefurbs and plastic set from pinball center.
Nice that there is no corrosion under the playfield.
Cab is solid but should be good after some sanding/filling/paint/decals. Fingers crossed anyway. Plenty of work ahead.
Quoted from cottonm4:I see. Don't blow off the link I gave you. It is so good and comprehensive that I printed it out in case the link ever goes offline.
I won’t, might come in handy for the dodgy slingshot. Thanks.
That’s a good idea, how tight you doing these up because on my WPC pins it is easy to close the gap up and then it doesn’t hold.
These look much stronger so shouldn’t close up.
Quoted from miracleman:This gent did an awesome touchup around the artwork...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-club-if-you-own-one-or-use-to/page/16#post-5874931
Was thinking about doing that as that looks good, maybe I will touch up the artwork first and if happy will repair and paint/clear coat.
Save me some money.
Quoted from cottonm4:Other than your artwork, what kind of repairs does your cab need? It looks solid in your pics.
Not much really just the scrapes and some edges, also a chunk out of the back of cab. Not coming apart anywhere surprisingly.
I can’t seem to find any exploded diagrams of the mech parts, I want to rebuild the mechs as linkages etc are worn. Would be good to have some part numbers as this is my first DE. I have some wpc linkages/sleeves etc so will compare. Spending too much time online looking at parts!
BFF04196-4DFC-49D6-A3B0-0D2F7B2E53EF (resized).jpeg5B02940F-8969-49CB-BA98-5254454FC196 (resized).jpegC899A302-ECC0-4EC7-88C3-9DA34736F22B (resized).jpeg3655BD8F-1F71-4599-88B3-CA4FDD646AF0 (resized).jpeg31573F00-049D-415C-96CD-464B33D5EFBB (resized).jpeg3BE48867-8FC6-43FD-8540-31FFB9A61254 (resized).jpeg7D86D0F2-690E-4A10-A889-C3FC870C649E (resized).jpegThank you guys, appreciate the help. Been playing it today and even with its shortcomings still having fun.
25% extra tax tariff for spares at the moment from USA so going to try and source the spares in Europe so will study PL’s parts.
Like this: https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1952
This machine was in storage for over 20 years and has held up ok thankfully.
Quoted from gdonovan:What is the circuit board that has been added on down by the flipper board?
Good point, never really thought about that one so will have a look tomorrow. Will put some pics up.
Quoted from gdonovan:Odd, really should have no need for one since it has audits but maybe a physical meter was a requirement for where it was deployed?
Quite a few pins have meters in the uk, don’t know why. Will see how that board is wired, probably to the meter.
Quoted from miracleman:A google search suggested Philip Shefras Spares and a DEEP history of early amusement games in the U.K.
https://penny-arcade.info/the-shefras-collection-
Thanks pretty interesting link and I also found when the company dissolved in the nineties it was just down the road from where I lived in West London!
Fixed all the weak bumpers and slings today, just adjusting switches and clean/replace sleeves. All working good.
Ordered all the parts today, flipper rebuilds and coils, targets, posts, rubbers etc. Also a full set of plastics.
Frisket also arrived, I am going to repaint the black part of cab/backbox and touch in art work. Will be filling any edges and scrapes etc. Will probably clear coat so it all blends in. Still been playing it 
E90C0963-825C-4AC8-BEFA-7B39483B9E01 (resized).jpegQuoted from sixtyfourbits:I used frisket when I repainted my robocops backbox, and I was very happy with how nice it is to work with, and how the backbox turned out. Good luck to you with your repaint!
Yes saw your posts and pics which gave me the idea, thanks. Looks great.
I will also ask which black did you use, I was thinking a satin black.
Quoted from cottonm4:I bought 2 sets of the full plastic sets that Zitt is bringing over.; One set for me and one set for a friend. That is a pricy set of plastics with the dollar being weaker than the Euro.
I looked at the web site and they are sold out again.
I must have bought the last set today, phew!
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:Sheepishly, I have to admit that I have yet to build this. It’s been on my to do list for a while.
I don’t seem to get airballs too often, and my plastics are already pretty beat in the usual spots. Still, I really need to get around to making this ASAP.
Thanks for the reminder!
I will be sending the plastics that will get damaged off to a guy here in the uk so he can make up some protectors and the one for the 3 targets will be brought forward to stop any possible air balls.
My plastic set has been shipped, I have had plastics from pinball center before and not been happy but have no choice. Last ones I had had burns around the edge and color not good.
Quoted from cottonm4:That is not what I want to hear.
I hope mine come in in good condition. I am going to be buried in them with the current exchange rate.
We live in hope, fingers crossed. But they have a bad name here in the UK for poor quality, when you have no choice what can you do. Better than nothing and having broken faded plastics. Had a blast with 2 of my sons earlier who came back from university for Xmas, even with crappy flippers.
Also watched the latest 4K clean up of the film earlier, was great
My pinball center plastics came today.
Different shade of blue and I noticed one of the plastics is about an inch short.
My originals look so much nicer but what can you do, hopefully when all are changed will not look too bad.
028DB271-A668-4FF3-BAE5-B050D3712C1A (resized).jpeg850A6C6B-3AF1-47A7-A1B7-BBB8B9219FEF (resized).jpegB2C96A36-E9D0-4B81-994B-80EA779E02DF (resized).jpegBCC79E7B-48C3-4556-8034-B7D128E98C7D (resized).jpegC933C2B2-6826-420A-9ABD-1E4071F5E096 (resized).jpegE0C42F2F-379A-4FE6-BF53-592C4D1924EF (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:Holy shit !
What I was saying, only use them if desperate. Some people have no standards!
Quoted from cottonm4:What happened here? Are your plastics in the same color of blue that is being shown? I'm scratching my head and trying to figure out what Pantone book the artist pulled his colors from? And what about the one that is too short. I can only hope that my 2 sets come in with a better color palette than what is being shown here.
Looks similar to what they are advertising and it’s only when you do a side by side you can tell.
A11FD3B6-4C35-414F-B730-7EFC9BB1568D (resized).pngQuoted from cottonm4:I thought this pic was representative of what I was going to be buying. If the pic was put up with the color of blue you are showing I would have saw the difference immediately.
And to think sellers of pinball items get their panties wadded up when buyers question the quality of what is being hawked. And then I am supposed to feel sorry for them because that are just hobbyists.
I'm crossing my fingers and hoping mine come in better than yours.
I crossed my fingers too, good luck.
Quoted from cottonm4:I won't leave Zitt on the hook for these. But if what I am getting looks like what has been posted, I would not mind if he boomeranged them right back to that German company that is pulling a fast one.
Those posted are pure trash.
I would guess they would all be the same colour, CPR will be doing these soon I believe and they should be a close match.
I will just put them all on as I think it will be ok as there will be no side by side comparison but that will be my last order from there.
They still have the upper and lower protective layer on so will look better.
I have rebuilt all the pops, slings and flippers. All good.
Just need to strip the playfield, clean and rebuild with new posts and rubbers. Not sure about leds. I left incandescents on my robowar and as it’s all clean they look really bright and vibrant. Will see what it looks like with clean inserts and lamps. I also prefer the normal flash lamps, I’m glad as this thing has a shit load!
My backglass is missing the red diffuser, I’m going to have to get some red and blue lighting gel to put behind so they match.
Also my Mylar is very matt, I tried polishing with cutting compound but no joy, is there a way to make it shiny again?
I love LED’s, put them in all the wpc pins I’ve had but have to also put in led ocd as well or the euro equivalent Afterglow. Have a few spare of those. Fast on off looks bad to me.
Spent a few hours stripping the playfield and polishing the mylar to get some shine, looking better now.
I am trying to find a cliffy ramp protector for the right entrance, so far the Iron Man one looks pretty close to me.
Definitely will be going warm white with LED’s if I use them for GI and colour match inserts if it looks ok otherwise warm whites again or maybe sunlight.
If they strobe I will be taking back out as that will annoy me.
Also got some new return lane guides coming from cliffy.
227997C1-92E9-448B-B257-3D54A1F9D898 (resized).jpeg55C985F9-F24B-48FB-8E85-9C4EB3BC615B (resized).jpegQuoted from gdonovan:Never had strobing issues with Comet LEDs and Data East.
I mean fast on off not ghosting, if that’s the case then great I like the ramp up and down of incandescent lamps, without led ocd my Fish Tales it was a strobe fest.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have posted on this several times. They look better with the protective plastic removed and only really work when all of the plastics are put on the pin as a set.
I agree that the supplier could have done a better job on the colour (a much better job) but trust me they do 'work' when a full set is on the pin.
I think we should contact the supplier as a group and ask them to try something with the colour. At least then future buyers might get a better match.
I buy a lot of stuff from Pinball Center and I find them a very good supplier generally and good with communication and I don't have the access to parts being in the UK that some of you guys get in the U.S.
Oh and I did warn everyone about the bad positioning of the holes but it does not take much effort to rectify the short-comings.
I did read what you had found and was expecting it from them anyway.
Yeah, most people in the UK know their plastics are pretty bad. Found out today the main back piece with the 3 lights don’t line up, going to be a pain in the arse as I will have a gap on the right when I correct it.
Will look best with warm white GI as they are lighter blue.
I have bought a few things from cliffy, new ball return guides as mine were worn down causing ball hop and ramp protectors. Right ramp entrance has a crack and Cliffy’ s Genesis ramp protector fits the bill. I hope it all comes quick.
A pic he sent me of the Genesis protector on Robocop.
F36EA0DD-B771-41A1-99D7-393508BBB6BB (resized).jpegQuoted from Thehipster:Do you have link for these please
Contact Cliff, I only emailed with him last night. He is very helpful. He will remember.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/
As above, bang the playfield and if it does it start putting paper between switch contacts one at a time to find the culprit. Not familiar with this yet does it have switch test because you could check it that way, much easier.
Good tip, I have a spring like that on my Avatar to stop sdtm’s.
Mine had a post there that was wobbly and loose which I took out, while testing now and again the bill would get stuck as expected.
I copied an idea I noticed on my TWD that was done at factory, it is nearly impossible to get a ball stuck there. Game stripped so not played but rolling a ball there very slowly and it can’t get stuck. The hole was a mess so fixed 2 problems in one
697D000F-D626-4C8E-87A6-18004D9974AC (resized).jpegB92F42FD-35F5-402B-B09E-B31308D49B08 (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:That is a fix. The only problem I can see is that the screw completely blocks the ball from contacting the skirt at that location. The spring will flex to allow a better reach for the ball. But other than that, the screw is a good idea.
[quoted image]
Would have done it your way but there was a hole there and I had the perfect roundhead screw by chance, glad I noticed it on TWD.
Quoted from cottonm4:I did a switch test. I'll be honest. Electronics is my weak skill. What is this telling me? It seems to gravitate towards the right pop bumper which is switch # 48. But my right pop works and works well.
Also, I have applied Molex connectors to my pops and disabled all 3 and whatever is killing my blinking lights still kills them with all 3 pops disabled
The switch under the pop bumper has 2 switches, one for the pop bumper solenoid and the other for scoring points.
I have messaged pinball center about this plastic set as there is too much wrong with it for the money, too big, too small, holes out, colour, etc
I sent some off to get the protectors made and he was shocked how bad they were. Now he see’s plastic sets all the time.
Think I would rather put the old set back on and put up with the few that are damaged.
These need to be half that price.
Quoted from JustEverett:Sorry to hear this. I was really hoping for a good set of plastics given the price, but after seeing what you received decided to cancel the order. I really appreciate you sharing so that others weren't stuck with the same low quality work.
No worries, spent some time on this today. Very frustrating, I put the original back panel plastic back on as the new one was so far out. Three lamps on left and gi lamp on right. If I alter it for the 3 coloured lights the gi hole will be out and I will have to make it much bigger but the plastic in front should cover it almost.
Will look at the back panel plastic in a couple of days and see what can be done.
In the pic the original is in front.
690DCCB8-2FB9-48E8-8A32-20B79BD8D0C4 (resized).jpegAAAFD285-F977-4FBD-B146-FB1E3543D9CB (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:Yes. Contact the seller. Our guy over here talked with the seller the and seller is going to take them back . We are going to be out for the shipping charges, though.
Sorry about that but I think you are doing the right thing as you will not be happy.
I am in contact with them but I had already started altering/fitting so tuff for me, they have asked me if I can send the ones that are not the correct size so they can scan. They also said it is normal for colour to be out, because of scan. Well that can be altered after surely.
Will put some pics up soon I hope.
My new Pinball Center sling shot plastics, holes too big. I wouldn’t buy that for a dollar!!!
Still have protective layers on and protectors below.
Be interesting to see what they say about this as well.
81BBC9C3-C85B-4E29-9B63-348C00586531 (resized).jpegA5FF80BB-BA23-49BE-8885-4E012D3B0E96 (resized).jpegA814496E-D7E6-45AA-8BAA-849178692A0C (resized).jpegQuoted from JustEverett:If they don't accept a return and refund your money, they are crooks. That's awful.
I started fitting the rest and making good, I sent some plastics off for protectors to be made and presumed they would be ok. They came back today!
Not sure what can be done now, they should give me some money back at least. I payed with PayPal so could set up a claim.
Wasn’t expecting oversized holes!!!
Quoted from gdonovan:That's terrible, the ones from Retro were much, much better if off on the blue color.
Pete has gone awol, not got back to a few people including myself. Why I went for these, would have made do with the captive ball plastic being damaged.
Just want to get this game back together and play.
Quoted from Thehipster:The holes on mine were oversized in places but they still held the nut in place. I will take some pics at the weekend.
I think that the supplier could be over compensating the positioning of the holes because they have never had an original set to work from.
These plastics are so rare a good manufacturer could do really well making and selling them.
When I bought my RC I did not expect parts to be so scarce but it has added to the experience.
On another note I have found the lozenge shaped inserts for the 'directive' lights impossible to source and a friend 3D printed some for me and they are usable but they are not an exact fit.
If you know where to get some I would be very grateful.
I am in contact with PC, I am going to send them my original back piece and sling shots so they can have the correct size and colour.
They are going to send me new sling shot plastics with smaller holes, no need for stupid size holes that the nut falls through. Crazy.
Hopefully it means the next batch of plastics will be correct, I guess nobody complained about them.
I will also send my long plastic over the captive ball as it is too short and not wide enough, that should cover all the faults with the set.
If they do this right they will be close to perfect. Just a shame mine won’t be though.
Just finished putting mine back together, working great. Just waiting on cliffy metal return lanes and ramp protectors.
I only had the blue fresnel for the back glass so I bought some red and blue lighting gel so it matched up and looks ok.
Plastics were a right pain but it’s done now and actually look ok with the clear protectors underneath.
No air balls from targets on mine.
Will do cabinet in the summer, for now I’m going to play the hell out of it.
46E06DC6-7F92-42B8-A377-3FE5F503924C (resized).jpeg88EED347-AF17-4C51-A02B-FFBF2BE3E602 (resized).jpegDA9C0181-A1A6-4B03-B98E-672C2EB82055 (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:They look OK I guess. At least they seem to hold the light well and do not look all washed out like the 6-piece retro set that came on mine.
I was out at JustEverett's last night looking his Robocop over. All of the usual plastics on his Robocop are broken. But what struck me is how much better his looks than mine looks---just because his plastics, while broken, have the original blue color. With the correct color on the plastics, the Robocop play field really pops.
I hope PC can get some corrected plastics made or maybe CPR will come around.
The clear protectors help spread the light so not so focused. Yeah they should be the same colour as Robocops armour but as you say they look ok.
My original plastics colour is great compared as well, my machine was only just taken storage and it was there for over 20 years.
Not happy with my right flipper, I used new rebuild kits but it seems to be too much play in the linkage as a ball pushes it down a tiny bit but it hits ok.
I will send my plastics over to PC as soon as I can, I hope they can perfect the set from them.
Quoted from cottonm4:New problem shows up.
I will be playing a game and everything is rolling along. All of a sudden, my game dies and the ball drains. I push the credit button and can start a new game successfully.
This just happened to me again. This the 4th time.
What is causing my Robocop to go dead in the middle of a game but yet let's me start a new game as if nothing has happened?
Thoughts are appreciated.
Maybe it thinks a ball has drained, check the ball trough switches.
I’ve have rebuilt both flippers and fitted new cabinet switches and getting a weak flipper issue on both flippers, sometimes when both flipped at the same time they don’t go up all the way.
More so with ball on end of flipper and not very often, checked all connections. Was thinking to replace both coils first then maybe try a new flipper board.
I believe there is also a relay in the circuit to check.
Never played a data east and find the flippers not as snappy as WPC, stern.
Quoted from cottonm4:Try this. It has helped my flipper action. My flippers would be hitting hard as hammers and then all of a sudden, they would turn to mush, and then just as suddenly they would eye hitting hard again.
Lift your play field and close up the gaps on the flipper switch points. I had to remove the 2 screws that attach the flipper switch to the cabinet and close up the gap and then reinstall. You can slip about 3 sheets or paper in my flipper switch gaps. They are close. And 99.99999% of the time my flippers are hitting hard.
If the problems return then I am going to install micro-switches for my flippers. DE had problems with this and at some point in time moved to micro-switches for the flippers.
Thanks, I fitted new switches but will close them up as close as I can and try to line them up as slightly offset.
There is also a mod to do to the flipper board on data east bulletin no.23 for weak flippers and double flips, I would rather buy the new improved board you can get.
They do hit hard as a few times the ball has flown off the ramp and onto the wire form then back down to the plunger.
I can never enjoy a game until it’s 100% but will get to the bottom of this sooner rather than later hopefully.
Also found out my bb speakers surrounds has perished but they sound ok surprisingly, noticed they also say 10 ohms on them. Anyone changed their speakers?
Quoted from cottonm4:1) I tried to modify my CE flipper board with service bulletin #23.
2) The mod did not work. Of course, the two guys with their name and phone numbers on #23 are long gone.
3) The mod hosed my board.
4) So, I bought a Rottendog FLP-023 flipper board that works on a lot of DE pins.
5) While the FLP-023 worked, it was ever so slightly weaker than the the factory board and I found myself dealing with a lot of missed ramp jumps and dealing with a lot of crashes. For any other play field action the FLP-023 was OK. But it was off just a bit as far as the ramp shot.
6) In desperation, I was able to reverse the mods I made by following bulletin #23. But it looks like a Frankenstein circuit board now.
7) There is a 2nd generation flipper board I located on Ebay. It was supposed to help with the weak flipper issue. It did help; A little bit.
8 ) Closing those flipper gaps is what finally worked for me.
9) My friend who has the Robocop does not seem to have any problems with his flippers. I thought my Robocop was fast. His is downright snappy.
10) Save spending your money on the Rottendog FLP-023 if you can.
Airballs: They were impressive when I first got my Robocop. After about 3 days they showed their selves to be nothing but a pain in the ass as they bounced all over the play field breaking plastics.
Your air balls come from the 3 yellow stand up targets in the middle of the play field. You need to make your self one of the air ball deflectors that I talked about. Apparently, others are using it and their air balls have disappeared, too. You put that deflector on and you will have no more air balls. And since you just installed a new set of plastics, I would suggest to install the deflector before you start breaking those, too.
Great info, thanks. There is another board made by Pindorabox that I could try if all else fails.
I had plastic protectors made with a bit of an over hang so new plastics are safe, I have not had any air balls from the yellow targets and it does hit hard, I also fitted those cushioned target covers which would help with that anyway. Worked for some other pins.
Will put some footage up to see what you think of the flippers.
Thanks again.
Adjusted flipper switch as close as possible but still has the issue, you can see a 18 secs and 20 secs when it goes weaker.
Quoted from vec-tor:1) Check cold solder joints.
2) Check wires to the idc connectors.
3) Check fuse holders.
4) Check solder connections.
Thanks, done all that already. Twice. Zooming in with phone as well. Did reflow one connection.
The weakness is the same in both flippers.
Quoted from cottonm4:I saw yours go weak at .18 for one hit and then back to hard hitting normal.
Mine was right hand flipper only. It would go weak for one hit and then come back strong. Only very rarely did I have weakness for more than one flip.
Just checking but you do know your flipper fuses are located on the flipper board on the left side of your cab?
On a side note: Your Robocop looks nice and clean in your video.
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I looked at the Pindorabox board. It looks just like the Rottendog FLP-023 board. Licensed maybe? Anyway they are out of stock.
Honestly, I cannot rememeber if the Rotteondog board solved my weak flipper problem. I was just so dissatisfied with the lower power keeping me from making the ramp shots. I'll say ti again, the Rottendog board seems to be a good board in all play action.
Yes took the flipper board out, removed fuses and reflowed a pin on there as well. Board is quite clean.
I’m going to get a pair of new coils as the wire looks messed up on one and go from there and work my way back.
I did read a bridge rectifier might cause the problem so will look into that as well.
Thanks, just the cab needs cleaning up but it is solid. That can wait until the summer.
It was in storage at a private house for the last 20 years plus which has helped
There is another totally different flipper board but has surface mount components.
https://www.pinled.de/en/p/solid-state-flipper-board
Quoted from Thehipster:Does anyone have a pic of the MPU board schematics. I know I need to buy one.
My slingshot coil has stuck on again after changing resistor q10 and it working for a while I would like to check the other components in that row.
Think you should also change the diode on the coil and maybe the coil, the protective layer can burn off the coil wire and cause issues.
My left slingshot quit the other day, ordered some TIP102’s as that row of Q8 to Q13 looked to have got hot going by the board.
Also got a new pinled flipper board on the way and some ball return guides and ramp protectors arriving shortly.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have just replaced the coil and had an engineer fix the board which I had damaged trying to sort out the coil first time round (in a previous post on about page 19 or something of this thread).
It was the TIP 102 that he changed and he fixed some pretty bad hacks. The slingshot worked fine for about 2 weeks then locked on again. That got me thinking it might be something on the way to the TIP102.
Do you have the correct size fuse for the special coils, slingshots and pops? Should be 2.5amps sb I think. Mine are screwed in the right hand topside of backbox.
Will be putting a set of new fuses in as I know they look different without checking properly.
That’s annoying, something not right.
Quoted from Thehipster:They look great!
I have emailed Cliffy to see if he can give me a non-prohibitive cost for shipping to the UK.
I could do with the pair of return lane guides as mine are so warn that occasionally they hold the ball in front of the flipper bat and I have to give the pin a nudge to get it moving again.
It's not the end of the world but it can get annoying at times.Added yesterday: UPDATE! Cliffy got right back to me and he is making them for me. Very reasonable on the shipping too.
Great!
My metal posts were seized, one snapped and another I had to hacksaw off. The nut on top was next useless for grip.
Going to order new posts and t nuts, had to take both flipper plates/mechs off to get to t nuts as spinning 
Also found one of the flipper plates was bodged together and fell apart!
B5934730-E2F4-4558-9596-559B4EA8CF2F (resized).jpegC705E012-0B9B-4972-8DC8-9A0546A0FE18 (resized).jpeg
No flipper base plates in the uk so will have to order from Germany, postage costs the same as the plate so I might put it back as it was until I need to order some more stuff .
Ordered the posts etc, new flipper coils arrived today as wrong ones were fitted.
Anyone got a pic of the flipper coil as I want to check where the diode stripe should be, new coils are opposite to how they are on my machine.
My pinled flipper board should be here anytime now, can’t wait to get it all back together.
Still need to pull out mpu and check replace slingshot transistor, have a new coil for that as well so might as well change it.
Ahh although my sound is ok somehow I noticed the bb speakers have perished so will need to order some new ones, weird size for here in the uk.
Quoted from cottonm4:I thought you were going to tell me you had something from Harbor Freight . Lincoln is some high end product.
Can’t beat some high end product 
My brother-in-law has a garage local to me, think I will ask if he can weld it
Quoted from Thehipster:Is this the one you need? Its at pinball heaven.
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Thanks but no that’s not the one, pinparts has that one too. Data East parts need some research to get part no.s, getting used to it though.
Yep Pinball.nl have the one I need in stock and 4 euro cheaper than Germany, thanks for reminding me will see what else they have that I might or might not need lol
Pinball.nl want nearly €20 postage to me so will leave for now.
Yeah the plate had some extra pieces of metal and screwed elsewhere to the playfield, was solid enough. I will look into it.
Bit of bond which I have and a screw here and there and should be good. When I need to place an order worth doing I will get one.
The left side has been replaced by someone already with the unpainted version and then they put self tappers through the coil stop holes, have ordered the machine screws for these.
Quoted from Thehipster:I forgot to say that I was on pinball nl the other day and it wouldn't let me do the normal 9.95 euro delivery and only came up with a 24.95 euro option. I cancelled the basket and got the stuff from pinball center. 3 day delivery door to door excluding weekends which I think is pretty good during the new year holidays.
Pinball centre now want €35 or a cheaper untracked way with up to 30 days delivery!!!!
Quoted from gdonovan:I'd weld it up for free if he wants to ship it.
Thank you for the offer, I will ask my bro in law if he can weld it as he has a garage otherwise I will fix it back with a bit of tlc.
Quoted from cottonm4:Is a lot of this action due to Brexit?
Yes, a lot more hassle for company’s to ship to the uk from EU for tax reasons so some no longer want our business.
Cliffys ramp protectors came today, would have been rude not to fit them while waiting for other bits to arrive.
These were meant for gottlieb Genesis I think and just need the taps bent a bit to fit over the ramp.
Fit pretty snug and only held by the one nut, once I can test I will see if it moves and needs some double sided tape added.
Right hand side of my ramp has a bad crack so this will fix that from getting smashed up even more.
15FF8AFB-D17C-41FF-BD52-9999C12117FA (resized).jpeg4CF56178-CBAC-40A5-BC69-1323BA61DB9A (resized).jpeg9DCDCEE5-F8D3-4678-AD3F-6C75291C444A (resized).jpegAC630DD3-5B39-406E-91E3-4D09C7EC3C21 (resized).jpegI think it will be ok, the front of the ramp protector is mounted on the post, that will take most of the impact.
Time will tell but I’m confident.
Saying that a bit more of reinforcement/bonding might not be a bad thing. I will keep an eye on the crack and see if it gets worse.
Flipper board just arrived, few more bits and I can try and get it all back together again and see if it works 100%
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Quoted from cottonm4:I did not see that the protector was anchored to the post. I'm sorry.
Looking forward to how you like your new flipper board. Especially the ramp shot. After looking closer, this flipper board is built different then the Rottendog FLP023 board. Maybe it will hit harder then the Rottendog board.
It looks like you will need to stock up on those short length fuses being used, too.
Hey no worries, I thought you didn’t see that it was anchored as it’s hard to see that.
The pic is from cliffys website, Genesis kit but he sends them out straight for Robocop. You just need to bend the tab up a bit to get it to wrap around the ramp at the top.
Just say for Robocop if you order.
I read on here that the pinled board was the one to get, we shall see. I have some of those horrible little fuses lol
6A7F9405-4938-409E-B53D-A424724603F5 (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:Thank you. That is what I wanted to see. Matter of fact, an OP friend has a Genesis pin on route and we were playing the hell out to last night. I might consider getting one of these.
Anxiously waiting for you to give your opinion on how this board performs.
Genesis looks a great game and on my hit list.
Will update as soon as it’s all back together.
Took the mpu out today to fix the slingshot that quit, was told boards are clean by seller.
Special coil transistors Q8 on have been ‘worked’ on and two pins resting against the long join, don’t know how they even worked!
All working now and glad not to have to see that mess until the next time.....
9B180686-6D88-4F1F-AFF1-82CCFAEA9247 (resized).jpegQuoted from Thehipster:Mine was like that before the engineer got to work on it. I don't think mine was as bad but the hack was a diamond of short wiring all around the Q10 area. I didn't know where to start.
Actually having said that I messed up the power supply board on a Zacarria that I acquired recently and a guy on the Zac forum in pinballinfo.com talked me through replacing all sorts of parts (bridge rectifiers, transistors, resistors, heat sinks and what to do with thermal paste) until it was fixed (all done via messages) and I got it fully restored thanks to his generosity and found out loads about AC and DC voltage readings and testing parts and connector before powering up.
My Q10 has gone again but I think it was a wire from the end of stroke switch which I found to be loose and I think it may have shorted the coil on again and blowing the slo-blo 2.5 fuse. The engineer has told me not to attempt it myself but I am going to look at it when the tip122s arrive and if the area around Q10 is clean I may give it a go but probably not. Anywhere near the wire hack and it will be going to him but he's not available for a couple of weeks.
The game is playable with just one sling but I want it back up to normal asap.
By the way I have just ordered ramp protectors from Cliffy. He seems like a top bloke.
I’m an electrician and did some hobby electronics when I was a kid so that has helped, practice makes perfect but some things are best left to the experienced. Think you should be ok changing the tip122. I use Jim-myPinballs, not cheap but he is the best when I need to. He just built a new mpu for my Robowar, really nice board.
Just waiting on metal posts then I can start putting it all back together, got new flipper coils as wrong ones fitted. Also the pinled flipper board to try so glad I have fitted the ramp protectors!!! Cliffy is the man.
Ok, today I put it back together.
No ball hop now, new return guides.
Fitted new correct coils/diodes and first game random weak flipper.
Ramp protectors need double sided tape or something.
Fitted Pinled flipper board played about 30 plus games, no random weak flipper yet. Normally would have shown by a few games.
Pretty powerful, going to need an air ball plastic on the ramp to stop it flying off now and again.
Need some new bumper switches and it’s all good.
Fingers crossed.
Quoted from cottonm4:Can you make the ramp shots?
Very very easy, just got over 8 million.
Was pretty tanked up last night but still managed to get my wife to take some footage at the end of my best game.
Still working fine today.
I fitted extra flipper springs yesterday as I wasn’t happy with them, I fitted new rebuild kits but there was too much play in the linkages for my liking.
You could see the flipper move when you cradled the ball and bounce overs not good at all because of the play in the linkages.
It has made them a little less powerful but that’s not a bad thing as they are overpowered now anyway, I also made the table steeper. Was set to 6.5 and at least 7.0 now, added an inch to the back. Plays so much better now, will check what the actual angle is. Made it harder which I like.
Flippers feel solid now.
Also with the pinled flipper board likes the flipper switch gap wider.
Was getting crazy air balls from the ramp, I loosened the screws on the flap at the entrance which has made entry smoother so only get the odd air ball now which is pretty exciting 
Put about 50 games on it yesterday, 6 mil was my best but harder now.
My capacitors had come loose and slings were still working so you could cut one end off like above.
Jim will probably give you some advice if he is repairing/tidying your board.
Quoted from Thehipster:When I switch on the pin the slingshot fires and blows the fuse immediately. This morning I switched on the pin after changing the tip122 at Q10 and that was what happened. I watched the slingshot arm fire and stay for about 3 or 4 seconds, checked the fuse and it was blown. I then re-seated the two connectors next to the fuses, power in and power out to the special coils, put in a new fuse and tried it again and the fuse blew.
At the same time the centre and right thumper bumpers stopped working and I checked their fuses and they were fine.
I will post a pic of the refurbished and tidied back of the board tomorrow. You might notice something obvious that is outside of my limited knowledge.
I can’t see clear enough from the pic of the board but I would be checking with a meter that the pins are not shorting anywhere, and checking the transistors to see if they are blown. Easy with a meter. Sounds like there is a short if it has now taken out the 2 pops. Are the 2 pops either side of Q10?
Quoted from Thehipster:HELP!!!
Are these switches wired correctly? (I am pretty sure they are and I took pics to guide me). The new switch's lugs were the opposite way round to the existing so that is why I am asking.
With my MPU board away being fixed I thought that I would give the slinger a refurb.
So I have put in new switches and checked the diode on the end of stroke switch which was okay but since I had to remove it to check it I replaced it.
I didn't replace or check the capacitor because I don't know how to.
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A6428FEC-98FC-4EA5-B2A8-D54C9F35055B (resized).jpegB0A25984-8C5F-404C-A51E-3A97A5FB3A7E (resized).jpegQuoted from Thehipster:Thanks for taking the time to post these. They look like mine so I am reassured.
The only thing which seems odd is that on mine there is no 'resistor' between the cap and the lug but since it worked fine for 2 years I'm guessing it didn't need it.
Ask Jim, they put them there for a reason so best to check with him incase it might cause an issue with the board. Best to be safe.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have got my MPU board back from Jim at myPinball and it is working perfectly.
He has done a fantastic job. He comes highly recommended from me just as he was from lostcause.
Some pics of the repair below.
Pic 1 with the blue wire is before repair and 2 and 3 are after
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That’s much better, I just received the big capacitor replacement which is much smaller. The one in the bottom left of backbox and v3.4 roms as he was burning some for you as mine were v3.0 as well. I don’t have a clue what is different and played a load of games, one weird thing happened though it didn’t manage to kick out a locked ball properly after game over but kicked one out in the shooter lane for some reason in attract mode. That’s a first!
Jim told me to double check my switches as well.
Also fitted a new pair of Boss speakers in the backbox as originals were falling to pieces, sounds better but not a huge amount. Will change cab speaker next.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have noticed that the sound doesn't override itself . And as I said before the 209 lamp freeze hasn't happened yet.
I think it releases the lowest ball during wrecking crew later than v3 which is better I feel, could just be the beer though lol
Quoted from cottonm4:I put my earlier set of ROMs back in to see if the no-sound issue with the slings would correct. Nothing happened so I will replace my later ROMs.
But I have noticed my VUK kicks out the lower ball a little later. I prefer it to kick out sooner so I can have an open play field to try for the Jackpot ramp shot. Around 70% of the time I can make the jackpot when the ball comes down the inlane. The points are less than if I were to wait. But the Jackpot ramp shot is one of those "a bird in the hand is wort two in the bush". If I miss that first ball coming down my success ratio for completing the Jackpot shot is about 25%-25%.
I preferred the kick out later but will try again today with a clear head and see what I think.
My pop bumpers aren’t scoring any points as switches broken but pops work, at £20 x 3 plus silly postage from EU it’s pretty annoying. None available in the uk.
I’m guessing they are different to the Bally/Williams pop bumper switches?
Quoted from gdonovan:2 contact sets, one for activation the other for scoring if I remember correct.
Correct, managed to get 2 scoring but the other one is missing contact.
Great sound effects and I’m now going to smash my high score, really adds up.
I had a spare cab speaker from my MMR as I upgraded the sub, fitted it in this today now sounding really good with the Boss speakers.
Now my displays have started to fade away, looks like an led upgrade coming. More money
Don’t know what it is with this game but I just keep playing it game after game.
Quoted from cottonm4:Unless you are just wanting to spend your money for LED display, you can buy the handful of resistors and transistors to need to fixed the high voltage on the MPU. I have the instructions and parts needed.
Is it on the mpu? I thought it might be on the power supply board as the 100v connector goes there. Will have to look into it.
Was going to get one of those psu cap kits as it is all original.
Yeah it does look like a power supply issue as the top display fades first after 30/60 mins then the bottom one follows.
Mines not gassing out, when turned on its very bright. Plus it was stored for over 20 years so seen less action.
I have ordered some resistors and diodes and hoping I don’t have to spend any more money.
I can play for 30 plus mins before it starts to fade so not the end of the world yet 
Quoted from Thehipster:I played mine for 4 weeks without a left slinger and was still happy.
It's nice to have the pin working as it should.
I sometimes just practice the ramp jump record or how many times I can hit the Dick Jones target or the scanner lock.
I don't know if you recall me asking you some time ago about whether all three pop bumpers operate the flashers under the 209 model when pops 3000 registers on the scanner. Well after I adjusted the switches under there last week all of the bumpers now flash when in that mode.
And the sound effect from the pops are great
Quoted from Thehipster:After I saw your post yesterday I decided to turn the sound on mine up as I normally have it all the way down. I couldn't believe the 'new' sounds that became evident. The slingers and the pops as well as the two switches at the top left of the bumpers. And the gun shots from the flippers.
What are you mad, Robocop has some of the best sounds in a pinball. Mine is sounding great now with the new speakers and better now most of the pops are scoring 
Quoted from Thehipster:UPDATE! lostcause cottonm4
I had a lamp freeze today but it was a nothing like the ones I used to get with my old roms. Just about 3 seconds of gameplay where the lights froze.
I can't put my finger on it but the whole feel of the game is better. The scores gained in the scanner all register. This was not the case before at the low end, at the beginning of each game.
On a different point when I get instant x2 at the beginning from the scanner the multiplier lamp does not light (this was the same with my old roms).
Does anyone else have this problem or can tell me what I need to do to rectify it. Is it a programming problem or electrical?
Thought my x2 lit but will check it out, still a few bugs now and again but I’m just concentrating on my pop bumper scoring now as I fitted 3 Bally/Williams populated pop switches which fitted nicely.
Game is playing great now, just waiting on some diodes for the 100v power (have resistors) but takes over an hour now before display starts to fade.
Quoted from Thehipster:It sounds like you going to fix the display. Good stuff
Changed the 2 resistors put back in and display faded away as usual, board back out and changed the 2 diodes and has been on quite a while now and looks really bright and solid. Happy days.
Thanks cottonm4 for prodding me into fixing it, saved me over £200
Had a game and rolled it with over 11mil and 14 jumps
No name up though
Quoted from cottonm4:My standard fee is 1/2 of the savings I do PayPal
When I rolled mine over, it did not ask for a high score name, because 9,999,999 + one = 0. I think that is what happens with a rollover.
Seriously, I'm glad I was able to help you out. It was easy, wasn't it?
Cheque is in the post 
Thanks.
The 2 resistors were straight forward but where the diodes were it has been hacked so was a little bit more tricky, also looks like a capacitor has leaked at some stage but no sign of it. Pic of before I worked on it. Not pretty and couldn’t do much with it but managed to fit the new diodes D6 & D8 ok and they now match.
Now I need to get as close to rolling over as possible!
D5984F29-E977-4826-BBED-C2F1F6F1FAB8 (resized).jpegSettings are all standard, no buy ins though. Right outlane wide open. Mine is set quite steep which makes it harder and play faster.
Just checked and it’s 7.8 pitch Still flies over the jump.
I had just under 10 mil on 3.0 Roms with no pops scoring at the time.
Seems similar scoring to me but not played enough on the 3.4 yet really.
28 mil is a great score.
2B1413B3-1419-4C3A-817C-C29C84162158 (resized).pngQuoted from Thehipster:Have you been into the expand adjust on the diagnostics? If so which are you using as standard settings?
In the diagnostics you can have 'factory' rules, 'hard' rules or 'easy' rules. I have always regarded standard rules as factory settings. There is also a setting for novelty rules but I have never tried them and don't know what they are.
Yeah I meant factory settings with the only change being no buy in and free play, 7.8 pitch which makes it much more interesting 
I put a 6.5” Kevlar in my MMR LE that is pretty good, I put the original MMR speaker that was then spare into Robocop which was better than what was in there.
The Kevlar one is quite good and stopped me putting an 8” one in.
Like this https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/QTX-QXW6-65-Woofer-with-Aramid-Fibre-Cone/33LO?origin=product-ads&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7GrjqbR7gIVV6jVCh1jRwE6EAQYAiABEgJWyPD_BwE
The way to tell if the blue matches on the plastics is if it is virtually the same as the blue on the playfield like the gun above.
My original plastics were the same colour as the playfield, now they are not
Still looks ok though but not ideal.
Isn’t CPR making a set as well with a NOS set they were just given?
I don’t know what it is but there is no sign of getting bored with this and I have played a ton of games. Happy days.
At least you have the correct colour, be nice to see them lit up. Must be quite a big of variation on these pins as nobody is getting the correct holes etc.
My left sling and return lane looks a bit small or probably bad print. vorsprung durch technik!
2BD8F139-E790-4303-BB04-01ED85034B52 (resized).jpeg
Had a Xenon over 20 years ago that I picked up with 2 x Vectors and a Dr Who, really wish I had kept it but the boards kept needing repairs to keep it going. No new boards back then.
Quoted from Thehipster:Don't get me wrong the slingers are more than adequate for a really good game but in my recent posts about my plunger sticking and burning out the coil and the resistors at the 'Q' positions and the amount of time and money I have spent on new switches and plungers and an engineer re-doing the board will show that everything is new, including the coils.
The problem is that the power of these slingshots have been the same since I got the pin.
I need to check what size coils I have on them and then maybe you fellow owners might be able to advise if anything is not correct with the setup.
I will check the size etc tomorrow and let you know. Thanks.
If changing the coil for higher power beware that it can send the ball flying in the air, I noticed one of my sling coils on my FT was the wrong one (lower power) fitted the correct one and it has sent the ball over into the drain out lane on the opposite side a few times!
I had a full set and have swopped everything and did the alterations so will leave it.
I forgot how nice the original colours were, oh well. Is what it is.
2 slingshots and the long right plastic, pretty sure they will be good for someone. Correct colour and holes.
Glad they kept to their word and sent them to me.
Quoted from cottonm4:I may have found a replacement pot that will work. It has the correct values but is doe not have a long shaft adjuster. I ordered 3 of them since they were cheap. I should have them in a week. I hope it works.
Great, fingers crossed for you and let us know.
Quoted from Colsond3:Just joined the club. She needs some love.
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Welcome, very cool. Cab looks good
Quoted from Colsond3:Thanks. Other side is a little rough.
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A lot better than the sides mine, going to prep and paint mine this summer and frisket the graphics.
Plays great though. A one more game pin, don’t know why but that’s what it seems to be.
Quoted from gdonovan:Center plastic looks to be made from aluminum.
And taken a beating by the looks of it. Will last forever!
Quoted from cottonm4:Tell us about this box your dog is standing on. Does he play pinball with you, or are you 4 feet tall
P.S. Nice looking dog.
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Ha ha, wish I was 4 feet my back might not be so bad!
Was made for my grandchildren to play pins but also handy for getting to ceiling height for some jobs etc
Thanks, the dog is a bit crazy but the pins are safe.
I have a pair of Thai Ridgeback’s, he is a wild one the bitch is lovely.
Quoted from Colsond3:PM sent. Thanks man.
After replacing a few more bulbs and glancing back at the pics I posted above, realized the whole right side of my playfield GI is out. And two pop lamps. I need to grab a manual.
Anybody know what connector that might be, or something bad indicated by the lamp matrix?
Not sure which connector but the guy changed mine due to burning out. Think it’s common.
Quoted from cottonm4:Some of the pins in my connectors had become de-tinned. I replaced all of the connectors. But I don't IDC pin tools and left IDCs alone. There has been no change. The game is playing well but my alpha numeric display has not fixed itself so I will probably replace the parts that control the high voltage on the power supply.
My sounds are working good. The new potentiometer gives me a full range of volume. Now knowing what I was doing, I bought 3 pots so I could have safety back up.
Now, I have 2 spares. I am going to keep one. But the other one is for sale if someone would like to have one. I'll $20.00 shipped to anywhere in the continental U.S.
If you need to replace your pot, this one will make you feel like you never left home.
If you know how to solder, it is an easy swap. 6 wires.
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Good to ‘hear’ the sound is working
I have just fixed an operation thunder an operator sold me that they couldn’t fix and had a garbage display sometimes with other faults and tracked it down to a dodgy ribbon cable, just needed to move it a bit in the connector to get it to work but have ordered a replacement. Intermittent faults can be pretty annoying.
Quoted from cottonm4:I need to clarify about getting my sound back. Before is all went to hell, all I had was my upper right panel speaker working. Now both panel speakers are working. My cabinet floor speaker is still not working and that happened when I replaced the speaker several weeks before this mess I am fixing started. And my sounds from the inlanes have mostly disappeared.
So, I have gone ahead and ordered the parts I need from Great Plains Electronics. I already had a capacitor replacement kit so I am going to recap and replace the amplifier for the cabinet speaker. There also some socketed ICs I would like to replace but some are obsolete and my search for these has not been successful, so far.
Ahhh crap, hope you get it fixed. Sound boards can be tricky to fix so good luck with it, I had fun with a wpc one once. One thing after another but ok if you can source the parts.
Quoted from cottonm4:And just now I have stumbled onto a cap kit for DE power supply boards so I am going to buy this kit and recap my power supply as well.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CAPKITDE-00
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1129-yorktown-arcade-supply/02147-data-east-power-supply-capacitor-rebuild-kit-for-520-5000-00
I’ve just placed a £400 order with them 
I was advised by a guy here that it’s worth changing that big capacitor in the bottom left of the backbox as that could cause some funny issues. I changed mine for new one just in case.
Quoted from gdonovan:I'd have to look at a diagram, but cant recall it being a critical item.
Was from Jim MyPinballs aka applejuice.
“ Replace for better lamp matrix lamps, brighter, less flicker, strobing, less dimming when all on. Less noise through speakers etc
Essential maintenance upgrade for all old games. Improvements for changing this are, better lamp matrix lamps, brighter, less flicker, strobing, less dimming when all on, or large amount on etc. Less noise through speakers etc, less noise on display. (wont solve led flicker issues though). Can also help with random game resets i have heard on occasion to.
Used in all Williams Games from System 3 up to end of System 11 and all Data East games and the Sega games until whitestar came in.
The replacement one i use are slightly smaller than the massive originals, but are still the original sized screw terminals. The sizes are:
Spec: 30000uf 25v
Tolerance: 20%
Diameter: 36 mm
Length: 52 mm
Lead Spacing: 12.8 mm
Colour: Black
Quoted from Thehipster:I wonder what the purpose of that large capacitor is.
From what Jim said I’m guessing it’s stopping the power dropping too much when demand gets high by storing some, maybe.
Quoted from Thehipster:Did anyone get a chance to check if, before x2 is lit by 209, that when the ball lock right lane randomly awards x2 that the x2 light comes on? Mine doesn't.
I will have a look next time I’m playing.
Quoted from gdonovan:3d print?
I looked at the 3D printed ones but managed to get a BB version for the same price, if someone beats my score I will grab it as it’s loaded and shoot them in the backside
Quoted from cottonm4:I bought the base pistol and found youtube video to make it look like a Robocop gun. For a minute, I thought I might just buy one like yours. And then I saw the price. I'll will work on my conversion.
He put the price up unfortunately as it was cheaper back in December when I ordered mine.
I was thinking of fitting some kind of fogger to have smoke coming out of the barrel but think I will just have an led strip linked to a flasher.
Not sure I like it as a topper but will leave it there for now, might be better once the led flashers are fitted.
The topper above looks great.
Had a couple of small green led strips in the spares box so fitted them and driven from the target practice insert in front of the right flipper which I thought would be the best one. Lights the gun up just enough, subtle but good enough. Happier with it now.
I upgraded the speakers in mine and these sound pretty good, my originals were falling to pieces.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boss-Audio-4x10-inch-Speaker/dp/B000J1C0QW
I changed the cabinet speaker to one I had spare that came out of MMR that was also better but most 6 1/2” bass speakers would be better.
Looking good!
My targets have no foam but are straight and can be hit as hard as you like and have no air balls, my Dialed In targets have foam but give me nasty air balls when hit hard, go figure
Quoted from Thehipster:The bars on my yellows were like Cottonm4s when I got the pin so I straightened them and they sent air balls all over the place. I had to re-bend them and they have worked fine since then but I have my protector/deflector fitted and I wouldn't remove it tbh. I have smashed the yellow targets three times so I try to keep back up spares just in case.
Another thing that I try to keep as a spare are the post sleeve posts as I have snapped three at the base of the ramp (poor aiming ).
I would like to fit the translucent targets but they are hard to get in the UK.
I have some nos targets spare as bought a few cheap on eBay, I did buy some target armour/stickers which absorb some of the impact and look good from here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272197996928 but did ask for all circular version. Yeah the posts get hit pretty hard.
Quoted from cottonm4:I thought about buying some of those target faces. But what puzzles me is the seller says they have a lifetime warranty and I’d like to know what that means.
I’m guessing worst case scenario you will post back faulty sticker at your cost but if lucky send a pic and pay shipping for replacement. They seem to be holding up ok. If they break up I wouldn’t fit them again and more money wasted.
I bought some for my DI from another seller and they are coming apart, the best ones I have bought was from a guy in the States that sells mods as well and his target covers have a hole in the middle for the rivet to sit in. From here https://www.pinballdecals.com/index.html Had these on my TZ for a while now and ok.
Quoted from Lostcause:I’m guessing worst case scenario you will post back faulty sticker at your cost but if lucky send a pic and pay shipping for replacement. They seem to be holding up ok. If they break up I will not fit again anyway and money down the drain.
I bought some for my DI from another seller and they are coming apart, the best ones I have bought was from a guy in the States that sells mods as well and his target covers have a hole in the middle for the rivet to sit in. From here https://www.pinballdecals.com/index.html
Quoted from cottonm4:Screw that. I just discovered that Marco is selling pinball rescue’s Robocop plastics package for $99.00 US dollars. But on PR’s website they are priced at $146.00. And I bought 2 sets from PR’s website. Bah humbug.
Ahh bollocks can’t win them all. Maybe I will get a set if I place an order with them to correct the crappy ones I have already bought and fitted.
Quoted from Pinballer73:I would say Marco made an error with the currency conversion when they initially listed them at $99. They are no longer listed at that price.
Pinball Rescue are legitimate and honourable people that would never intentionally overcharge anyone. Marco have changed the listing price to $179.99. I wonder if anyone managed to snag a set at well below cost price before the adjustment was made?
No I didn’t but did link a uk site but have now updated the price. Thought it strange they were cheaper.
Quoted from gdonovan:No worries bro, why we are here.
I didn’t even realise 
Ordered some br’s today for something to do, might as well change them. Replaced the big cap already.
Quoted from cottonm4:I am having heart attack with the pricing on that big 30,000 uf 25V radial cap with the screw top. These thing must be made with gold.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C30KM25VR
$79.00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C30KM30VR
$65.00.
There has to be another place to buy this cap.
Anybody have a more reasonably priced source?
I ‘only’ paid about £18/$25. UK though from Applejuice who is on here.
Quoted from cottonm4:I am going to put some dense foam on but have not made it to the hardware store yet.
But even with the foam, those backing bars are soft enough that they will bend back with repeated ball impact and you will be dealing with the airballs again.
Straightening those bars up and backing them with piece of wood should keep the airball problem at bay forever. I am happy with how my center SUs are performing now.
I wish I could say the same about my flippers.
There is a relay on the main board I believe for the flippers, when mine were not right I was wondering if the contacts in the relay could be making them go weak etc I’m sure I read it was for the flippers but not 100% sure.
Quoted from cottonm4:Maybe I need to replace that relay? I have not read in the trouble shooting guide that the relay could play a part in causing weak flippers.
How did you fix yours, please?
No there is no mention of the relay causing issues but I’m sure it’s in the circuit. Will have to check.
I replaced the flipper board with the German one and ok straight away but the relay was in my head to check if it wasn’t.
I put new flipper leaf switches on which didn’t help before I replaced the flipper board.
Micro switches might be worth a try first.
Quoted from Thehipster:Has anyone had a chance to see if, on start up if they get awarded a instant x2 by the right channel random award hole when it is not already lit that the light does not go on at the bottom of the playfield?
Not sure if I understand what you are saying but I started a game got the ball in the right unlit random award hole and no x2 light came on.
Quoted from topkat:Man the back box has allot of flashers..
I remember thinking the same thing when I was replacing the lamps when I got mine and didn’t have enough.
Quoted from cottonm4:When my Robocop came to me it had a double rubber on those posts. I never played it with 2 rubbers on so I can offer no opinion on doubling up. But I do get a "loop" going on in that area; A light nudge puts a stop to that action. I just wish I could Gert it to loop when the pops are scoring 3000 its.
Agree with above, if you are lucky you have a enough time to drink some ice cold beer 
I’ve heard people hate fixing these pins, mpu board can give you a lot of head scratching like the flipper issues you can get. All you can do is check all the switches/diodes, coils, connections, shorts and then you will need an expert to look at boards or give you advice otherwise you will be going round in circles getting nowhere.
Regarding the slingshots, pops mine were iffy because someone had repaired the tracks where they had burnt out by the transistors with wire but the wire was not contacting properly and vibration was causing it to cut in and out. I know you had your board repaired so will be good but maybe worth pulling out for a look and checking for dry solder joints if you have checked everything else.
My brother visited at the weekend and brought his partner who has two young girls who managed to break the coil end stop on one of my flippers which was new, if I had told them to stop banging the flippers constantly I would have been the kill joy. Last time they play
Quoted from Thehipster:Lostcause
Can a bad diode cause them to stop working completely?
I am not an amateur at changing out diodes
You can check the diode with a multimeter on diode test setting, not sure what issues they can cause but I know they can cause problems.
No idea what size capacitor but each switch should have the same set up of diode and capacitor I think.
Some pics of mine, sling switches have a resistor and capacitor each side. Coil has a diode. Found one of my wires off, karma
Edit: Looks like some screws loose too.
3D144C4C-ED56-49AB-BCCD-1B8D5DBBDAF2 (resized).jpeg5E972BB5-FE10-4D3F-8D6C-7331EEC6E03D (resized).jpeg5A29472B-6F28-4F66-95AB-E89D2274F06E (resized).jpegDB67798B-B989-4DC8-B961-1619AA3D5527 (resized).jpeg7813573C-B50D-42DF-B077-05B3B5A398B8 (resized).jpeg
My resistors or caps were not connected when I got mine as they had come loose but I soldered them on straight away, I had issues but mine was to do with the tracks on the mpu board that had been repaired badly.
Quoted from Thehipster:Does the resistor fit to the same lugs as the capacitor (I'm clueless with electronics)
No, one of my pics above shows it’s not. I’ve zoomed it in a bit for you.
A9956BD7-9D6F-49A0-8B7F-4CADBF13B0AD (resized).jpeg
Quoted from topkat:For those who haven’t added a lexan deflector in front of the yellow target bank, I highly rec if your machine has air balls.
I’d say it cut my glass clanks by 90%…
Never had air balls on mine but fitted the protector there and the rest of the lower playfield, if you adjust the targets right you shouldn’t get air balls. Think cottonm4 adjusted his and it stopped. I can hit mine hard with no air balls, comes back bloody fast though.
Quoted from Thehipster:It absolutely does give me a feeling of accomplishment.
I am ashamed to say the original soldering was my first attempt at soldering about 2 years ago haha.
I remember that the wire had come loose and I had to buy my first soldering set to fix it.
I am a little better at it now. Still a little untidy at times.
Have been looking in and could see you were getting good advice, glad you worked it out and got stuck in. Thought it would be something silly like that and hard to help find faults quickly like that on a forum. Your soldering will get better the more you do it and the best way to learn is by your mistakes sometimes.
Had to put my dog down so been in a bad place and now my other one is really sad
Fixing a STTNG up is just about keeping me sane.
Well done to everyone who helped
I replaced my pop switches with new Bally/Williams ones like in the pic you put up from Pinball mania UK, they fit perfect.
Quoted from Thehipster:Aw sad to hear about your dog. I've been there a couple of times. It's horrible.
Great to see you are back on here.
Take care.
Thanks
Done it quite a few times but that was always health related, this one was because he was a dangerous dog that was getting more and more unpredictable and was going to seriously hurt someone at the least. Tried our best and had expert advise so that was that, nearly 5 years of friendship but boy did he stress us!
Now I’m cooking 1/4 pounders for the bitch as she hasn’t eaten hardly anything since last week, but she will eat those
Oh yeah another idea someone has done for the red and blue fresnels if they are missing is use a prismatic diffuser that are used in lighting and use stained glass paint to colour them. Looks ok but I will just leave my gels in there for now as ok. The Retro Refurbs guy did this and his pic, blue looks a bit off but still pretty good.
9DFC8C7C-4D7E-4429-B0CE-54F46DCACBF9 (resized).jpegI changed my capacitor a while back, not sure what good it’s done. Was told it could make lamps brighter, flippers etc better and just more stable.
Mine is still flying up the ramp and has broke a coil end stop when kids were playing- flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip
Quoted from cottonm4:When I was having problems with balls launching off of the ramp I made a clear plastic cover for the ramp. I screwed it to the ramp posts.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Flying up the ramp I meant at speed, I adjusted the flap at the entrance which stopped most of the air balls off the ramp. Still get the odd one jump up into the glass which I like, thought about an air ball protector but it doesn’t do it often enough now to worry about it.
Flippers are still working great, played another one at a show here recently that wasn’t as powerful.
This and Gold Wings are my most played pins.
Quoted from Shogun00:This is a glitch in the actual ROM code. I'm not sure what triggers it, but it's easy to fix. Just perform a factory restore in adjustments and everything will work correctly again.
I've ran into this glitch a few times now and not just on my machine, but on other Robocop pinball machines (4 total and on PinMAME) as well.
This happens on mine too, not all the time but will do it now and again with the latest rom.
Quoted from dscapo:Installed new roms and mine come up as A 3,4. Seems to be registering high scores fine now and haven’t had the issue since installing.
Have 3.4 on mine and sometimes the first few games you can put your name up with low scores, high scores are still saved in there. I’m wondering if it has a high score of the day type thing going on?
Not really payed any attention to it as just play a few games now and again.
Quoted from Shogun00:Is your memory protect switch working?
I discovered on my machine that the memory protect switch wasn't closing with the coin door. It turned out that someone bent the metal bracket that the switch is connected to. After fixing the problem, I haven't haven't ran into the score reset glitch in over 8 months now.
Not even heard of that, will look into it thanks.
It keeps the main high scores in the memory, you just seem to be able to add lower end scores sometimes for some reason.
Had some people over yesterday and Robocop had a weird issue with the right flipper, power was intermittent. Checked all connections, no issue. For some reason I decided to hold the playfield up while flipping and it worked perfect.
Turns out the new flipper switch (replaced a while back) which is the correct part was touching under the apron where the plunger gauge is, the paint was wearing away and that’s when the fault started! Put some electrical tape under there for a quick fix but guess I will just bend the apron up there a bit.
Might help someone with a right flipper issue.
Quoted from topkat:I am having an issue where after we make the ramp jump, and the ball rolls down the flap, it doesn’t always make it to the lock hole. Shoupd I bend the flap more up or down? Any thoughts
Mine does this only once in a while but feel it’s a slower ball, have mine set up steep. Maybe try the pitch first?
Not sure you can bend the flap easily.
Quoted from Shogun00:Has anyone ever thought of making a police strobe light topper?
Perhaps have the topper lights tap into the backglass flasher circuit?
I thought about it but as it already has the blue and red lights on the backglass I bought a gun and a strip of LED’s that are tied into the target practice insert.
It’s loaded so can just grab it and shoot people if they beat me, only plastic balls but still fun!
Police strobe would be good though.
16A37F59-3319-4357-8432-5C6849B95CB7 (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:Where did you get the gun at, please?
I picked it up from eBay, seller was in South Korea who sells BB guns and it took nearly 6 months but was only about $35 delivered and a bargain.
I took a chance and got lucky for a change!
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Asheville, NC