Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:I'd love to get my hands on that pin that keeps the ball from resting on the pop bumper area. Really a huge PITA when trying to play with a group.
Quoted from BulkOfTheSeries:I'd love to get my hands on that pin that keeps the ball from resting on the pop bumper area. Really a huge PITA when trying to play with a group.
Looking for a few parts in if anyone can help me out.
• Black plastic rail on the back (top) of the glass.
• Plastic for above the yellow targets
• Right ramp
• Right plastic beside the shooter lane.
Thanks!
THis thread is has been dead for awhile. Time to liven it up
Actually, the pops on my Robocop have been down for some time. And I just have not had the time to did in a fix them. I miss playing it but some other projects have priority.
However, I did do a couple of things to Robcop that did not need much labor from me.
The first thing I did was contact NinJaBooT to see if by chance he might have a spare Robocop apron magnet laying around since his website said he was sold out. He found one for me ! It looks super cool. I don't know if he has any more, or not, but it never hurts to ask.
https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1216-pinball-magnets
The second thing I did was to make a topper. It took me a long time to pull the trigger on this because this topper was not cheap. I still need to make a plastic box cover to keep the dust off. I need to dress it up and have a couple of ideas I'll wok on as time allows. I hope you like it.
I joined the club today with a Robocop that’s had a rough life. I’ve spent a little while going through it to find what work it needs. So far I’ve found that the left speaker will not work, the left blue cop flashers (on the backglass) won’t work and the “Serve the Public” Emil flashers won’t work. Where would I start diagnosing these problems? It has a rottendog MPU and I’m not familiar with them.
Also, is there a way to turn off the attract sounds?
Thanks!
Added over 5 years ago:The left "RED" backless flashers are the ones that don't work.
Quoted from Jakers:I joined the club today with a Robocop that’s had a rough life. I’ve spent a little while going through it to find what work it needs. So far I’ve found that the left speaker will not work, the left blue cop flashers (on the backglass) won’t work and the “Serve the Public” Emil flashers won’t work. Where would I start diagnosing these problems? It has a rottendog MPU and I’m not familiar with them.
Also, is there a way to turn off the attract sounds?
Thanks!
When I get home I have a link I will post that is all about Robocop and Data East. I found it to be so valuable with information (how to repair a broken display and what parts you need for the repair) that I printed it out; It looks like an old time phone book.
I wish I know how to turn off the sounds while in attract mode. Great question. Anybody?
EDIT: Found the link.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm
Also, go to Ebay and buy a Robocop pinball manual with schematics. There are several for sale now.
Thanks for the link. I still haven't figured out the flasher problem or the left speaker issue. I honestly haven't looked too hard into those problems yet. I've been busy deep cleaning it and replacing broken parts.
I did find the attract mode sound on/off option in the settings though. MUCH better without that going off every few minutes.
Also, I was able to design and cut new OCP decals for the pops. The originals were looking pretty rough.
IMG_7710 (resized).jpgAfter 5 years of searching I finally joined this club last weekend! I am in desperate need of some flipper frame ball guides, does anyone know what the equivalent Williams part numbers are? I emailed Cliffy a few days back to see if his Time Machine ones would work. The DE manuals use different part numbers but they look to be the same.
Quoted from Jakers:Also, is there a way to turn off the attract sounds?
It's in the expanded adjustments E Ad 42 Attract Mode Music. I think you can set it to off, occasional or frequent. Do you have any extra of those pop cap stickers? They look great!
Quoted from cottonm4:I notice that if I have a ball locked and the game is over that sometimes the ball will get lodged between a post rubber and the lower left pop bumper. I think it is a design flaw and I was wondering if anybody has come up with a solution for this issue?
Quoted from athenspin:I’ve heard of several others having this same issue, I’d imagine it’s a design flaw. A previous owner of my Robocop used some very stiff wire and weaved it around the posts and let it stick out enough to stop that from happening. It’s very effective! And yes I know, my game could use a cleaning, lol.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from vec-tor:That is factory! The Simpson pinball had the same thing.
pg. 27 item #6. Ball Deflector Spring 265-5010-00
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I found the same item and part number on page 27 of the Robocop manual. Now, where can you buy one?
Quoted from cottonm4:Here is one I made that seems to be working OK, so far. I just took a piece of scrap .020 Lexan for this.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Actually, the part number is 535-5611-00. Wire-Ball Catch Spring. From The Simpsons manual. The Robocop manual calls for 535-5610-00 and that number is not good.
Marco sells it. Now I can throw away that piece of plastic I made.
Quoted from tonedef131:Do you have any extra of those pop cap stickers? They look great!
Thanks! I don’t have any extra but I could cut you a set and mail them to you for $5. I’ve since replaced those white ones with black. They show up much better when the game is on and the pop bumpers are lit.
image.jpgQuoted from Jakers:Thanks! I don’t have any extra but I could cut you a set and mail them to you for $5. I’ve since replaced those white ones with black. They show up much better when the game is on and the pop bumpers are lit.
[quoted image]
I debated weather to take the Mylar off or not because it was really gross and wouldn’t clean up. In the end I took the Mylar off. I’ve done it before with success so figured it shouldn’t be any different. Paint looked good under the Mylar but this game has so many flashers and they get really hot and when I pulled the Mylar up I lost some paint on inserts that had flashers right underneath. Here are some pictures I’m wondering if you guys have any tips or suggestions how to fix this and possibly some playfield scans?
4A05F8D8-E88C-49E0-BD8B-B62960D8B7A6 (resized).jpeg68384B01-BD47-4D5B-B6C6-75D4F5DC210F (resized).jpeg77DF90A9-3177-4CA4-8D03-AD00BB612098 (resized).jpeg8E6DD5BF-622A-4F19-8C03-B664A8B92E57 (resized).jpegB5DF8CA4-1A8E-4DC6-B372-C79655B89D23 (resized).jpegQuoted from Bay78:I debated weather to take the Mylar off or not because it was really gross and wouldn’t clean up. In the end I took the Mylar off. I’ve done it before with success so figured it shouldn’t be any different. Paint looked good under the Mylar but this game has so many flashers and they get really hot and when I pulled the Mylar up I lost some paint on inserts that had flashers right underneath. Here are some pictures I’m wondering if you guys have any tips or suggestions how to fix this and possibly some playfield scans?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I can make you some scans but it will not be until sometime in April that I would have the time.
In case you have not seen it, check out this guy's Robocop:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-back-from-the-dead
Ok looks like I will need more than just that one. Please let me know if you have any to sell
Thanks
Quoted from topkat:Ok looks like I will need more than just that one. Please let me know if you have any to sell
Thanks
Retro Refurbs makes a mini kit of some of the more commonly broken plastics. It says backordered but I just got a set shipped to me a couple weeks ago.
Quoted from tonedef131:Retro Refurbs makes a mini kit of some of the more commonly broken plastics. It says backordered but I just got a set shipped to me a couple weeks ago.
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/robocop-plastics-set/
Thanks. I put order in for those and the set in Germany from pinball center
Hopefully if those groups there will be some good ones
Robocop right ramp: I have a chance to buy a right ramp. I think it is NOS. What is one of these worth?
.
Mine has been broken and repaired. It plays OK, but the repair was done by an amateur and is ugly.
The only price info I can find is it was listed for sale at $119.00 but it is out of stock and I don't know how old this web page is.
http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=1036
Thanks
Quoted from cottonm4:Robocop right ramp: I have a chance to buy a right ramp. I think it is NOS. What is one of these worth?
Mine has been broken and repaired. It plays OK, but the repair was done by an amateur and is ugly.
The only price info I can find is it was listed for sale at $119.00 but it is out of stock and I don't know how old this web page is.
http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=1036
Thanks
Buy it, when I had my Robocop I searched endlessly for a ramp and couldn’t source one.
Quoted from athenspin:Buy it, when I had my Robocop I searched endlessly for a ramp and couldn’t source one.
How much is it worth? I can buy it but what is a fair price? I don't mind paying an arm but I draw the line at paying a leg, too.
Thanks.
Not sure how to officially tell, but Ive tried to find the monopoly ramps that are long gone and they have sold close to double of what listed was...( have seem them listed for ridiculous prices, but didnt actually sell)
If less than double probably worth it...? if you are keeping the robo
If you can buy it for what it’s listed for jump on it, even pay more. Even if you don’t use it, I doubt you’d have trouble selling it. I bought a perfect TMNT ramp off somebody a while back after searching for years. I paid nearly $300 for it, crazy but the likelihood of ever seeing another one was slim.
Quoted from topkat:Not sure how to officially tell, but Ive tried to find the monopoly ramps that are long gone and they have sold close to double of what listed was...( have seem them listed for ridiculous prices, but didnt actually sell)
If less than double probably worth it...? if you are keeping the robo
I am keeping the Robo. I have the MPU out for repair. I lost one sling and all 3 pops.
Quoted from athenspin:If you can buy it for what it’s listed for jump on it, even pay more. Even if you don’t use it, I doubt you’d have trouble selling it. I bought a perfect TMNT ramp off somebody a while back after searching for years. I paid nearly $300 for it, crazy but the likelihood of ever seeing another one was slim.
The seller is asking $300.00 for the ramp. Mine works fine and I have buttressed all of the weak points but one repair down by the metal flap was done haphazardly and is just ugly. Just like Ron White says "You can't fix stupid" I can't make the ugly go away.
300 is allot for a 125 item..
I cant imagine he will get a bite at that price..I could see 250 max and that seems like a gouge at that.
Quoted from topkat:300 is allot for a 125 item..
I cant imagine he will get a bite at that price..I could see 250 max and that seems like a gouge at that.
I don't think he is gouging. I think he is buried in it.
Thank you.
That’s a lot of coin, plenty of Robocops that are in need a ramp in any condition to work. Could always sell your repaired ramp to lighten the cost a little. Warped and repaired plastics and ramps drive me nuts.
Quoted from athenspin:That’s a lot of coin, plenty of Robocops that are in need a ramp in any condition to work. Could always sell your repaired ramp to lighten the cost a little. Warped and repaired plastics and ramps drive me nuts.
At TPF there is a vendor who sells lots of different plastic ramps, and little else. Mostly Williams stuff, IIRC. I asked him of the possibility of ever producing a Robocop ramp. He gave me a big shake of the head that said "NO" and said here are no molds anywhere.
I have thought about selling mine, as you mention. To help lighten the load.
If this helps, I overpaid for my turtles ramp but I don’t regret it. I’ve wasted $300 many times over in my life but I do have a perfect ramp instead of a blown out one!
Is your offer to scan those inserts still good? Looks like I will need them.
Quoted from cottonm4:I can make you some scans but it will not be until sometime in April that I would have the time.
In case you have not seen it, check out this guy's Robocop:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-back-from-the-dead
Quoted from Bay78:Is your offer to scan those inserts still good? Looks like I will need them.
I can do that. It will be a few days. Send me a PM so we can trade email addresses.
Check out the new toy I got for my Robocop. Now, I just have to figure out how I am going to spotlight it.
Yes. It does not interfere with a ramp ball in any way. I would have liked to set it a little lower into the ramp but ball clearance would have been an issue.
It is just a little toy that adds nothing to game play.
Quoted from Bay78:Is your offer to scan those inserts still good? Looks like I will need them.
I should be able to get you the scans you need by Saturday 6-22-19.
Quoted from cottonm4:I should be able to get you the scans you need by Saturday 6-22-19.
I sent you a scan via email and also via PM.
I fixed that ball that keeps bouncing out of the right hand ball ramp/lane. If you play Robocop you know what I am talking about. Like when you really hammer the ball with the left flipper and the ball bounces out of the saucer and comes back you with out scoring anything. I fixed that.
First, I had to make some mods to the ball stop up at the saucer.
This pic is the un-modded ball stop.
This is the side view of the ball stop. I had to open up both angles at the bend points. Look closely and you can see some black rubber. It is called dead-drop foam. It is an impact absorbing material.
Then I had to remove a fairly large area of the stop on its outboard edge.
Then I had to relocate this ball stop by drilling 2 new holes in the play field. The top 2 holes in this pic are the factory drilled ball stop mounting holes. The 2 lower holes that are sitting at a different angle are holes I drilled. While the dead drop foam absorbed some of the ball impact that still was some problem with bounce outs.
What I was trying to do with these offset holes was to slant the ball stop in such a way that any bounce back would be "pushed" towards the back of the hole for an instant stop.
Here is the finished installation. The ball stop has been moved toward the saucer so that the ball will hit the dead foam first thing. The offset position pushed the ball towards the back of the hole where is stays until the saucer kicker kicks the ball back onto the play field. If you have cussed that ball for bouncing out and wish for a way to make it stop, the way to make the ball stop dead has arrived.
I was not sure it would work and was pleasantly surprised after I had an afternoon session with no bounce outs.
Here is where you can buy the foam. THe shipping is more than the product.
I appear to be talking to myself here in this dead thread. What the hell. I talk to myself all of the time.
I'm adding a new project to my table full of projects in various stages of work.
I am going to tay and make a mold so I can make a new Robocop ramp. It will not look like factory. This is all I know for now.
I just started it this afternoon. I still have to add many more wooden cross ties. When completed, it will essentially be a solid block of wood. Getting to the solid block of wood is the first goal.
I don’t own a robocop anymore but I probably will again in the future! Replacement ramps being nearly impossible to find would be great for all owners and future owners!
How did you decide the correct placement for the new holes/ and deflector?
Ive wondered if just a different deflector would help that bounce
Thanks for finding a fix..
Anyone have a spare decal, of the arrow for the lock? Reached out to a few people in the thread that use to make them, but I guess they no longer do.
Quoted from topkat:How did you decide the correct placement for the new holes/ and deflector?
Ive wondered if just a different deflector would help that bounce
Thanks for finding a fix..
Well, first I placed some of the adhesive backed dead drop rubber on the deflector and then I started slamming a ball up the chute and all I was getting was bounce outs ( I thought the dead drop rubber was supposed to stop this so I was disappointed to say the least). Someone previous had already tweaked the ball deflector in trying to combat this problem. I tweaked back to a factory profile and repositioned it with my hand and just kept slamming the ball until the bounce outs stopped.
I think more than anything that the off-angle way I located it helped more than the drop dead rubber. I cannot prove it but my thinking that the off-angle location of the deflector just sort of throws the ball a little off kilter and makes the bounce outs go away.
I have 200-300 games on the pin since this mod and I have had only 4 or 5 bounce outs. It makes playing a lot more fun.
Quoted from blowback1976:Anyone have a spare decal, of the arrow for the lock? Reached out to a few people in the thread that use to make them, but I guess they no longer do.
I don't know anything about making a vinyl decal, but the art does look not that complicated. If I had the artwork, I bet I could make a water slide decal. The decal paper is not that cheap but I do have some from another project. You could place a water slide decal and then cover it with a piece of mylar.
definitely contact freeplay40 to discuss the ramps. I know he wont do robo since its low production, but if you have desire to make one he can direct
Quoted from topkat:definitely contact freeplay40 to discuss the ramps. I know he wont do robo since its low production, but if you have desire to make one he can direct
Freeplay40 and I have been talking. He has offered some good tips. I will continue to work on this as time allows.
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