I had a Williams Laser Cue. The owner's manual was so nice. It told what needed to be used and gave part numbers and values.

Data East is Stern Electronics. The Robocop manual is much better than the classic Sterns, but it pales next the the information Williams put out.

Pictures and any information would be great, but you may not have to. Got frustrated, so I also own a Data East Secret Service and a Monday Night Football. They were folded up and are projects down the road. So I said what the heck I went ahead and set them up and found out the MNF is the same as the RoboCop and it has all the correct components on the coils and kickers, so should be okay.
Might just confirm with you that the parts are the same tomorrow once I review the MNF in more detail.
Mike

cottonm4 did you ever replace a diode? If so, which one/mind pointing it out?

Also, something I didn't realize per rules is that the TOP LANES will spot your standup targets, so like Bowen says, you don't even ever need to hit them. I have to keep playing more to see if I can tell if that's what I was noticing about the game advancing too fast.

I have not had a chance to work on Robo, yet. I just had cataract surgery on one eye and It is in its healing process.

The top lanes spot you S-U targets. You need to roll down the Dick Jones lane just one time for his perp light to light up. I think you have to go down the Bodikker lane 3 times, and Emil 4 times. This is on factory settings.

If you set it to Easy settings, and ED 209 will start lighting up so much you will tire of him.

had a chance to work on robocop today. got my dead left slingshot working, had to replace tip122 and coil. noticed the lower pop broke the switch blade for points, used a blade from a EOS and that's back working. I found a random plastic that just happened to fit the right ramp, so now no more air balls from that. I need to make air ball guard for the middle stand ups. other than that this thing is playing great. such a fun game

thx cottonm4 , glws healing

that's cool GoldenOreos , after my flipper rebuild, I hope I need a center target deflector!

What you need more than a deflector is a small wooden block to sit behind your stand up targets. The whole airball thing is a result of constant ball impact to the 3 yellow SU targets. The target supports are not the hardest metal and bend back due to ball impact.

You must remove the SU target assembly and straighten the supports, replace the repaired target assembly, and then back them with a wood block. This will keep the targets standing up straight and airballs will no more.

I removed my deflector for awhile and never got another airball but put it back in place for insurance against breaking my new plastics.

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that's a good idea, would work for my Laser War, too, with similar center standups

Why are my yellow standups ducks, lol?

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that's awesome

Looks like someone had a spare target bank for cyclone and swapped it in.

Ha, glad someone recognized the donor title right away. Nice.

Got a new problem: I CAN'T ARREST ANYONE. Both ramp switches register, and arrest mode will be on, but then the ball gets to the lock, and 100% of the time it's kicked out to the flipper. WTF?! Switch test is OK.

To understand you correctly:

1) you have 1, or, 2, or all 3 perps lit up in front of the ramp. Correct?

2) you make the ramp shot and both of the ramp switches register. What happens to the perps in front of the ramp? Do they all stay on or does one of them turn off?

3) And then the ball gets kicked out? Always to the flipper? It never gets kicked out from the upper saucer? How are the perps lit after the ball gets rejected?

Here is the normal sequence for how the ball is handled after the ramp shot?

A) Ball 1 drops into the middle saucer and stays there for a little bit. And then a machine function happens and it gets kicked up to the top saucer.

B) Ball 2 drops into the middle saucer and stays there.

C ) Ball 3 drops and bounces off of Ball 2 and falls into the VUK and multi-ball starts.

You say 100% of the time the ball gets kicked out to the flipper? Does it get kicked out from the upper saucer to the play field? Or is is being kicked out of the VUK to the left flipper?

Have you looked under the play field at your saucer wiring and VUK wiring to make sure there are no broken wires?

I don't have your answer. I have to think on this.

AFAIK, the two ramp switches are associated with the crash sounds that happen if you miss the ramp shot. And the perps are all controlled by the saucers and VUK. AFAIK.

Sounds like the ball isn't going to the middle kickout hold (aka saucer) and is falling into the VUK. The ball must go into the middle kickout hole for the lock to register.

I would check to see if the piece of flex/spring metal is still intact. That's what feeds the ball into the middle kickout hole.

Wow, thanks Shogun00

pic of what's here now. kinda wondering if this metal is on backwards/upside down.

I'll mess around with it and report back.

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It looks like it got bent up vertically. It should be placed horizontally, so the spring metal drops down with the ball. This allows the ball to roll up to the middle kickout hole.

Your piece of spring metal looks a little beat up. The good news is that you can easily get a replacement.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5117-00

I have replaced Q10 and it has stopped the coil from being permanently on. Everything on the pin is working as it should APART from the left slingshot switches.

I have tested the voltage at the connectors and the switches and the are reading around 5v.

They do not respond in switch test mode. The EOS switch works ok.

Could the locking on of the coil have broken both the coil and the switches?
Would the switches still register if the coil was broken (I'm guessing yes but I should know this by now).

Any help would be gratefully accepted.

For me, if nothing else was working I would swap the coils and see if the problem follows the coil. 15 minute job max and you can knock one more item off of the list of things to check.

Here in the UK we get an extra day of this weekend. Its called a bank holiday. I will swap out the coil tomorrow. Thanks C.

RE: my bent ball spring to hit the locks properly, thanks Shogun00 and cottonm4 Ah man, you guys are the best. Was able to move the ball around manually and locks appear to be functioning properly. Just a $7 piece of metal. Sweet.

I swapped the coils and they are both okay. I am getting just under 5volts at the switches so I'm guessing it must be the fact that they are both done. Need to order new unless it could be something else.

Thanks for saying your problem was solved.

You can always swap the switches, too. Or just desolder the switch wires and touch the two wires together. If that does not solve you your problem, then I suppose you're are going to have to look at the boards.

Two questions:

1a. Should I expect to be able to back-hand the ramp from the right flipper?
1b. From a trap?

2. Was there ever a Data East chrome or stainless steel coin door, on any title?

It's coming together pretty nicely. Got my bi-color display in, rebuilt flippers with precision bats, and wanting to bling this out a bit. Other then wear around the pops, looking ok.
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1.) No!

2.) Not do I know of.

1) Rare but I have done it on the fly, but very, very rare.

2) No, not enough ball speed and energy. I simply post pass and bang it up with the left.

Same here. Doable but very rare on the fly shot.

What? Tell us about this bi-color display.

Where did you get it?

Who makes it?

Thanks

It's the white XPin display and dude was kind enough to send both red and blue vinyl. I put blue over the top display and red on the bottom but going back and forth about the order. In the movie, Robocop's head's up display (POV) is actually green, so I might do that someday as well.

Photos above, BTW.

My 4 year old can manage to backhand that shot.

I cannot. Haha

Thank you

Ha. I just rebuilt my flippers so before I called it good, I wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing any shots. Ended up replacing a coil on the left due to a stuck coil sleeve. My first flipper job, had read that coils were binary (they work or they don't) so I didn't replace the right coil. They feel similar but sound a little different, but all shots are hittable (no backhand off right) so I figure it's good to go.

Thanks all for letting me know the ramp can't be backhanded, at least not on the reg and certainly from trap.

I've been studying the diagrams for the switch matrix (see attached pics) and I have checked the relevant connectors.
All seems fine.

Left slingshot trigger switch shows as SW21.
Am I correct in thinking if Q53 at CN8 position 3 was faulty that all of that switch column would be out?

Would resistor R119 at position 4 on CN10 cause the left slingshot trigger switch to fail?

I will most likely swap the switches today.

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Looks great. Where did you find the precision flippers and are they relatively simple to install?

I would be forever grateful if anyone would post a pic of the wiring on the left slingshot switches.

Thanks in advance.

https://precisionpinballproducts.com and for sure easy to install. Really dig how they are adjustable from above the playfield. HIGHLY recommend the keyed shafts which I did not get but I will on future installs. I only saw those after my install and definitely think those are an improvement over having to torque the shit out of the set screw.

imo the precision flips would be overkill on this game bc its already super crazy with flipper strength.

hope this helps

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These are great and I don't want to push my luck. These look the same as mine but I would love to see the bottom switch with the white/green wires. I think this might be the problem.
I have three white/green going to the bottom lug.

Hrrrm, this is the upper one on the left. The lower one is on my above post, closer to the solenoid, 2nd pic from the bottom.

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Anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong to lock in free play? I get to E AD 35, hit the start button to get ON, then hit step to INSTALL.

Yet next time I cycle power, the setting is gone.

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Thanks for that. I will take some pics of mine and post them. You may spot something that I am missing.

Maybe need to replace batteries(?)

Either the batteries, the battery holder, or the diode/resistors that switches the power source to the CMOS RAM.

Ah bummer. Not the batteries. Is my next move to install a replacement battery holder just to rule that out? Wiring passes visual/tug inspection.

Else, if you could point me to the board location of that diode, much appreciated. I've got a manual but no board schematic that I know of (not sure if I could read it if I did, ha).

You may want to consider replacing batteries with nvram.

I used this in mine: https://www.pinballlife.com/anypin-dmd-nvram-battery-eliminator.html

Super easy install. Plug and play. No soldering.

Thanks, just ordered!

OK so here are my two sets of slingshot switches. Can you anything wrong apart from the horrendous soldering, for which I have to apologise.

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fixed me up! thanks again

There are too many posts from where you started to where you are now. Please tell us again what is going on. Or not going on.

Thanks

Yes. I've explored every avenue as to why my switches are not activating the slinger coil on the left slingshot. I have tested voltages and swapped out coils and all work as they should. I have changed the switch connectors on the board to as they were not in great condition.
Before I swap the switches I was wondering if I simply had wired them wrongly when I found two white/green (I think) loose.