(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to

By JCJP

7 years ago


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  • 1,617 posts
  • 105 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

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There are 1,617 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 33.
#1501 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Okay so 40 v dc at the pop bumpers and 32 v dc at the slingshot.
Does this suggest a diagnosis?

They should be exactly the same, all 5 coils are on the same supply line.

52346e6423a2405432f5412a281d1afc5f111ea7 (resized).jpg
#1502 10 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

They should be exactly the same, all 5 coils are on the same supply line.[quoted image]

Does it suggest transistors?

I have yet to put the caps on the sling switches.

#1503 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Does it suggest transistors?

No.

All five coils should have the same voltage as referenced from the ground braid (Ground) and coil lugs (Power) as instructed. The coils are usually daisy changed one to another so at some point one has a bad connection to the next coil.

The transistors just provide a momentary ground to fire the device and we are NOT looking at that part of the circuit in an attempt to eliminate the common problem you are experiencing with the two slingshots.

#1504 10 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

They should be exactly the same, all 5 coils are on the same

No.
All five coils should have the same voltage as referenced from the ground braid (Ground) and coil lugs (Power) as instructed. The coils are usually daisy changed one to another so at some point one has a bad connection to the next coil.
The transistors just provide a momentary ground to fire the device and we are NOT looking at that part of the circuit in an attempt to eliminate the common problem you are experiencing with the two slingshots.

So I checked the wiring between coils. Photo 1 is looking at the middle pop bumper coil. Photo 2 is after a small tug of the same wire.

All now re-attached and slingshot working as they should.

Thanks for the sound advice. It is much appreciated.

I've added to more photos for clarity.

20210713_182045 (resized).jpg20210713_182031 (resized).jpg

20210713_184307 (resized).jpg20210713_184340 (resized).jpg
#1505 10 months ago

Wow. whoever did that did not appear to know how to solder very well. I would take some time and look the other solder joints.

Glad you got it fixed.

You learned some new things, as did I. Does it give you a feeling of accomplishment ?

#1506 10 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Wow. whoever did that did not appear to know how to solder very well. I would take some time and look the other solder joints.
Glad you got it fixed.
You learned some new things, as did I. Does it give you a feeling of accomplishment ?

It absolutely does give me a feeling of accomplishment.

I am ashamed to say the original soldering was my first attempt at soldering about 2 years ago haha.
I remember that the wire had come loose and I had to buy my first soldering set to fix it.
I am a little better at it now. Still a little untidy at times.

#1507 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I am ashamed to say the original soldering was my first attempt at soldering about 2 years ago haha.

Well, you know what you have to do

#1508 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

It absolutely does give me a feeling of accomplishment.
I am ashamed to say the original soldering was my first attempt at soldering about 2 years ago haha.
I remember that the wire had come loose and I had to buy my first soldering set to fix it.
I am a little better at it now. Still a little untidy at times.

Have been looking in and could see you were getting good advice, glad you worked it out and got stuck in. Thought it would be something silly like that and hard to help find faults quickly like that on a forum. Your soldering will get better the more you do it and the best way to learn is by your mistakes sometimes.
Had to put my dog down so been in a bad place and now my other one is really sad
Fixing a STTNG up is just about keeping me sane.
Well done to everyone who helped
I replaced my pop switches with new Bally/Williams ones like in the pic you put up from Pinball mania UK, they fit perfect.

#1509 10 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Have been looking in and could see you were getting good advice, glad you worked it out and got stuck in. Thought it would be something silly like that and hard to help find faults quickly like that on a forum. Your soldering will get better the more you do it and the best way to learn is by your mistakes sometimes.
Had to put my dog down so been in a bad place and now my other one is really sad
Fixing a STTNG up is just about keeping me sane.
Well done to everyone who helped
I replaced my pop switches with new Bally/Williams ones like in the pic you put up from Pinball mania UK, they fit perfect.

Aw sad to hear about your dog. I've been there a couple of times. It's horrible.

Great to see you are back on here.
Take care.

#1510 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Aw sad to hear about your dog. I've been there a couple of times. It's horrible.
Great to see you are back on here.
Take care.

Thanks
Done it quite a few times but that was always health related, this one was because he was a dangerous dog that was getting more and more unpredictable and was going to seriously hurt someone at the least. Tried our best and had expert advise so that was that, nearly 5 years of friendship but boy did he stress us!
Now I’m cooking 1/4 pounders for the bitch as she hasn’t eaten hardly anything since last week, but she will eat those

Oh yeah another idea someone has done for the red and blue fresnels if they are missing is use a prismatic diffuser that are used in lighting and use stained glass paint to colour them. Looks ok but I will just leave my gels in there for now as ok. The Retro Refurbs guy did this and his pic, blue looks a bit off but still pretty good.

9DFC8C7C-4D7E-4429-B0CE-54F46DCACBF9 (resized).jpeg
#1511 10 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Thanks
Done it quite a few times but that was always health related, this one was because he was a dangerous dog that was getting more and more unpredictable and was going to seriously hurt someone at the least. Tried our best and had expert advise so that was that, nearly 5 years of friendship but boy did he stress us!
Now I’m cooking 1/4 pounders for the bitch as she hasn’t eaten hardly anything since last week, but she will eat those
Oh yeah another idea someone has done for the red and blue fresnels if they are missing is use a prismatic diffuser that are used in lighting and use stained glass paint to colour them. Looks ok but I will just leave my gels in there for now as ok. The Retro Refurbs guy did this and his pic, blue looks a bit off but still pretty good.[quoted image]

Sorry about your dog.

2 weeks later
#1512 10 months ago

Does anyone know the exact specification for MPU board connector CN12.

Maybe the part number or the gauge of the holes and what I would need tool-wise to connect wires to it. I think it could be a .156 inch but not sure.

Mine is very flimsy and needs re-wiring. At the moment I am having to force the wires onto the sharp edges inside the connecdtor with a miniature flat-headed screwdriver which is not ideal.

Page 33 of the manual (backbox wiring diagram) says nine pin but the gauge of the holes is not shown.

Hope you can help.

#1514 10 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Does anyone know the exact specification for MPU board connector CN12.
Maybe the part number or the gauge of the holes and what I would need tool-wise to connect wires to it. I think it could be a .156 inch but not sure.
Mine is very flimsy and needs re-wiring. At the moment I am having to force the wires onto the sharp edges inside the connecdtor with a miniature flat-headed screwdriver which is not ideal.
Page 33 of the manual (backbox wiring diagram) says nine pin but the gauge of the holes is not shown.
Hope you can help.

All of the header pins on the MPU are .156. I had to redo CN8 and used the "standard" type of pins with the "B" type crimp tool. I did not feel like springing for the IDC crimp tool as is costs a lot of money.

IMG_7121 (resized).JPG

Just make sure you use the Trifucon style of crimp contact with the side legs that offer extra holding power.

Screen Shot 2021-07-31 at 10.58.50 AM (resized).png

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

#1515 9 months ago

Does anyone know if the wire form ramp in the shooter lane can be removed without taking the playfield out?

#1516 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinwizkid:

Does anyone know if the wire form ramp in the shooter lane can be removed without taking the playfield out?

Good question. I'd like to know that as well.

#1517 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinwizkid:

Does anyone know if the wire form ramp in the shooter lane can be removed without taking the playfield out?

** Paging PIN-CPS **

PIN-CPS should be able to answer this, since he's restoring one right now.

#1518 9 months ago

Can confirm, unless I am missing some bizarre angle to hold the playfield at, that it is impossible to remove that ramp without removing the playfield.

1 week later
#1519 9 months ago

The large capacitor for Robocop costs something like $70.00 from Marco. Someone told me Ed at Great Plains had lower priced substitute. I ordered it for $12.00.

My Robocop seems to play aa little a little more robust than before, but I don't know if it is just me wanting to think it plays more robust. Anyway, for $12.00 I am not sorry I replaced a 30 year old cap.

I think I'll cut the old open and see what's inside. I think it will be a long strip of thin metal rolled up with fiche paper inside the roll. We'll see.

IMG_7234 (resized).JPG

#1520 9 months ago

My curiosity got the better of me. I had to cut the bottom off of my old cap just to see what was inside.

I expected to see the roll of paper although I cannot see the metal foil that is wrapped up inside the paper.

It is wet inside. I have heard of caps drying out and now I know what is being talked about. There are no moving parts; I suppose the metal foil and paper wrap deteriorate over time.

Anyway, since I replaced this I have had a few more games on the pin. It feels like it plays a lot more snappy. I don't have a zero point for comparison, but it just feels better. My flippers are hitting better than they have ever hit. I'll get my friend over here in a few days and see what he thinks.

IMG_7267 (resized).JPG

#1521 9 months ago

I changed my capacitor a while back, not sure what good it’s done. Was told it could make lamps brighter, flippers etc better and just more stable.
Mine is still flying up the ramp and has broke a coil end stop when kids were playing- flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip

4 weeks later
#1522 8 months ago

Sound Board needed, Does anyone know if the soundboard is interchangeable? I just bought a game and it's missing the sound board.I saw on someones list of data east sound boards that the correct one is 520-5002-06 and did a little digging and can't find one with that number.Can one of you who own the game verify the number for me i would appreciate it, and if anyone has a extra and willing to sell please let me know.Thanks

#1523 8 months ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

Does anyone know if the soundboard is interchangeable? I just bought a game and it's missing the sound board.I saw on someones list of data east sound boards that the correct one is 520-5002-06 and did a little digging and can't find one with that number.

Data East sound boards aren't interchangeable unless it just a simple revision change. Mine is 520-5002-02 and the last digit is the revision number. As long as the the board's model number is "520-5002-0", the revision number at the end doesn't really matter as much.

#1524 8 months ago
Quoted from Crumbalimb:

Sound Board needed, Does anyone know if the soundboard is interchangeable? I just bought a game and it's missing the sound board.I saw on someones list of data east sound boards that the correct one is 520-5002-06 and did a little digging and can't find one with that number.Can one of you who own the game verify the number for me i would appreciate it, and if anyone has a extra and willing to sell please let me know.Thanks

I have a 520-5002-01 in my Robocop. But the manual I use https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm. shows on page 13/41 shows the 520-5002-02 as being the sound board you want. DE sound boards are not backward or forward compatible. So, the only part number you can use is 520-5002-02, per the manual. It says nothing about my -01 sound board.

Good luck with your search. DE sound boards are high dollar on Ebay, but Ebay does not have any to sell. The only sound board on Ebay right now are 3 each 520-5077-00 and you cannot use those.

Next, I will tell you want I tell everybody. This manual prints as big as a old time phone book. Get a 3-ring binder, get some clear page holders, and make your self a manual. It is so much easier shuffling thru a physical manual as oppose to trying to go thru the manual online.

https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

#1525 8 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I changed my capacitor a while back, not sure what good it’s done. Was told it could make lamps brighter, flippers etc better and just more stable.
Mine is still flying up the ramp and has broke a coil end stop when kids were playing- flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip-flip

When I was having problems with balls launching off of the ramp I made a clear plastic cover for the ramp. I screwed it to the ramp posts.

image (resized).png

image (resized).png

#1526 8 months ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

Data East sound boards aren't interchangeable unless it just a simple revision change. Mine is 520-5002-02 and the last digit is the revision number. As long as the the board's model number is "520-5002-0", the revision number at the end doesn't really matter as much.

According to https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm, page 12/41 Sound Board Generations , sound boards are not upward or downward compatible.

I will allow the manual could be wrong but it has not let me down yet.

#1527 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

According to https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm, page 12/41 Sound Board Generations , sound boards are not upward or downward compatible.
I will allow the manual could be wrong but it has not let me down yet.

The Robocop manual says 520-5002-06, but that doesn't exist. 520-5002-03 is the highest it goes for that model of sound board. You noted that you have an 520-5002-01 in yours, while mine has an 520-5002-02. There is some degrade of compatibility between the revisions.

I think they are referring to using a board that is entirely different model, such as 520-5077-00 that you mentioned that's listed on ebay.

#1528 8 months ago

Thanks all for the responses, It sounds like I can find a 520-5002-01,02 or 03 and give one a shot and see.Those are available enough to find one and i'll be good to go :}

#1529 8 months ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

The Robocop manual says 520-5002-06, but that doesn't exist. 520-5002-03 is the highest it goes for that model of sound board. You noted that you have an 520-5002-01 in yours, while mine has an 520-5002-02. There is some degrade of compatibility between the revisions.
I think they are referring to using a board that is entirely different model, such as 520-5077-00 that you mentioned that's listed on ebay.

You are probably correct. I should be thinking about having a spare. If the 01,02, and 03 are compatible, that would be nice.

#1530 8 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

When I was having problems with balls launching off of the ramp I made a clear plastic cover for the ramp. I screwed it to the ramp posts.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Flying up the ramp I meant at speed, I adjusted the flap at the entrance which stopped most of the air balls off the ramp. Still get the odd one jump up into the glass which I like, thought about an air ball protector but it doesn’t do it often enough now to worry about it.
Flippers are still working great, played another one at a show here recently that wasn’t as powerful.
This and Gold Wings are my most played pins.

1 week later
#1531 8 months ago

Got a new toy for my Robocop.

He is going to be replacing that sorry excuse of ED-209 up in the back. I'll have to cut his legs off for fitment.

It is solid resin. You see the string because he is a Christmas tree ornament. But he is the right size.

IMG_7793 (resized).JPG

IMG_7794 (resized).JPG

Anyway, I got him here if anyone else is interested.

https://middleofbeyond.com/products/rc-ed209-ornament

#1532 7 months ago

I love this.
As you know I changed mine to a larger more modern ED209.
After a while I put the original back because
I had a problem with air balls off the ramp getting stuck behind ED.
Can't wait to see yours in place.

#1533 7 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Can't wait to see yours in place.

He has taken a number and is waiting in line with the other projects

1 week later
#1534 7 months ago

Does anyone know the gauge of the wire that holds up the ramp sign?
I don't suppose it is critical.

#1535 7 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Does anyone know the gauge of the wire that holds up the ramp sign?
I don't suppose it is critical.

The wire on mine measures .045 diameter. Closest is 18 gauge.

Screen Shot 2021-10-13 at 6.26.42 AM (resized).png

#1536 7 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The wire on mine measures .045 diameter. Closest is 18 gauge.
[quoted image]

Okay I bought 18g 1mm wire. It's as soft as solder. It must be the density/hardness/stiffness that is critical
Is that the gauge or something else?
I think it is the tensile strength that I need .

#1537 7 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Okay I bought 18g 1mm wire. It's as soft as solder. It must be the density/hardness/stiffness that is critical
Is that the gauge or something else?
I think it is the tensile strength that I need .

Need to get piano wire or hobby wire.

I get this from a local small hardware store, works great for a lot of different things.

20211016_085855 (resized).jpg
#1538 7 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Okay I bought 18g 1mm wire. It's as soft as solder. It must be the density/hardness/stiffness that is critical
Is that the gauge or something else?
I think it is the tensile strength that I need .

It is how the wire was heat treated. One way makes it hard. The other way makes it soft. Go with the piano wire, if you can.

But since you have 2 eyelets you have to form, you might try bending the wire the way to want, then bake it the oven somewhere around 400 degrees. Once it is good and hot drop it in a container of water to harden it up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

General sheet metal class in 8th grade:

Steel is what is called a ferrous metal. If it is too hard to work, you heat it up and let it cool down slowly and once cool, it will be soft enough to work. If it is soft, you heat it up ( red hot is fine) and drop it into a water bath or an oil bath.

Brass, copper, and aluminum are nonferrous metals. They operate backwards from ferrous metals. If you want copper to harden you heat it up and let it air dry. If you want it to be soft, you drop it in a water bath.

Tensile strength is referring to how far a piece of metal, or plastic, can be stretched before it breaks. This is not what you are looking for.

#1539 7 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is how the wire was heat treated. One way makes it hard. The other way makes it soft. Go with the piano wire, if you can.
But since you have 2 eyelets you have to form, you might try bending the wire the way to want, then bake it the oven somewhere around 400 degrees. Once it is good and hot drop it in a container of water to harden it up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
General sheet metal class in 8th grade:
Steel is what is called a ferrous metal. If it is too hard to work, you heat it up and let it cool down slowly and once cool, it will be soft enough to work. If it is soft, you heat it up ( red hot is fine) and drop it into a water bath or an oil bath.
Brass, copper, and aluminum are nonferrous metals. They operate backwards from ferrous metals. If you want copper to harden you heat it up and let it air dry. If you want it to be soft, you drop it in a water bath.
Tensile strength is referring to how far a piece of metal, or plastic, can be stretched before it breaks. This is not what you are looking for.

Turns out the wire I bought is aluminium. I'm trying the heat up and dry in air method out of curiosity.
I've ordered hardened steel piano wire 1.2mm too.

Added 7 months ago:

The 1.2mm hardened steel piano wire gas worked well

#1540 7 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Thanks for the link. I still haven't figured out the flasher problem or the left speaker issue. I honestly haven't looked too hard into those problems yet. I've been busy deep cleaning it and replacing broken parts.
I did find the attract mode sound on/off option in the settings though. MUCH better without that going off every few minutes.
Also, I was able to design and cut new OCP decals for the pops. The originals were looking pretty rough.[quoted image]

Jakers do you have the file for the OCP decals you can send me to cut?

#1541 7 months ago

I'm just curious, has anyone considered making mod to the ROM code to bump up the score limit (9,999,990)?

2 weeks later
#1542 6 months ago

Hello all. Brand spanking new to the club. Took delivery on a Robocop machine today and had problems almost immediately.
Has anyone here ever had an issue with bulbs burning so hot that they melt playfield inserts? I got 2 games into testing the machine out and noticed a smell, looked under the playfield and saw smoke…
Realized then what was happening. Looking at other inserts it appears to have happened before. You can see the offending lamp underneath the pf with melted plastic attached to it in the pics.

7A8F0508-4B88-4FE8-AC97-108E600F8E6E (resized).jpegE657776D-49A3-41EB-A2C6-C7114DBAF0AC (resized).jpeg
#1543 6 months ago

Welcome to the Club!!

Looks like Flashlamps are always on instead of flashing. Probably a shorted driver transistor.

#1544 6 months ago
Quoted from tullster:

Welcome to the Club!!
Looks like Flashlamps are always on instead of flashing. Probably a shorted driver transistor.

Thanks. You can see a pattern here with the flashers and the inserts. I’ll have to remedy that soon. Pulled those bulbs for now.
Has anyone had any luck replacing these inserts?

89B7D17E-94C7-4B8F-BD27-E5A1698DD082 (resized).jpeg
#1545 6 months ago
Quoted from tullster:

Welcome to the Club!!
Looks like Flashlamps are always on instead of flashing. Probably a shorted driver transistor.

Quoted from dscapo:

Thanks. You can see a pattern here with the flashers and the inserts. I’ll have to remedy that soon. Pulled those bulbs for now.
Has anyone had any luck replacing these inserts? [quoted image]

There is something on one of Todd Tuckey's youtube videos where he talks of replacing several items on the PPB board, I think. Something from the factory was showing defective and burned those inserts.

#1546 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

There is something on one of Todd Tuckey's youtube videos where he talks of replacing several items on the PPB board, I think. Something from the factory was showing defective and burned those inserts.

Ok. Appreciate the heads up

2 weeks later
#1547 5 months ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Thanks. You can see a pattern here with the flashers and the inserts. I’ll have to remedy that soon. Pulled those bulbs for now.
Has anyone had any luck replacing these inserts? [quoted image]

I cut mine with a scroll saw. Out of coloured plastic. It was an easy fix. The decals on the other hand cannot be found so I made my own.

#1548 5 months ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I cut mine with a scroll saw. Out of coloured plastic. It was an easy fix. The decals on the other hand cannot be found so I made my own.

I understand. How do your decals look now? Do you mind sharing? I’m going to have to do the same things.

#1549 5 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get these connectors? I’m having difficulty finding these with 9 pins (in a row)

396707E1-A556-420C-95D5-EEEA032EE20E (resized).jpeg
#1550 5 months ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Does anyone know where I can get these connectors? I’m having difficulty finding these with 9 pins (in a row)
[quoted image]

9 pin 156 Molex, Great Plains Electronics.

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