(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to

By JCJP

9 years ago


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There are 1,953 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 40.
#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

PM sent. Thanks man.
After replacing a few more bulbs and glancing back at the pics I posted above, realized the whole right side of my playfield GI is out. And two pop lamps. I need to grab a manual.
Anybody know what connector that might be, or something bad indicated by the lamp matrix?

Not sure which connector but the guy changed mine due to burning out. Think it’s common.

#1252 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Not sure which connector but the guy changed mine due to burning out. Think it’s common.

Yeah, that’s the CN1 connector on the PSB. They commonly burn up on DE and Sega games. Run hot as hell.

Already tested that out though. Didn’t seem to be the problem. Still have a few rebuild kits, so might replace it anyway.

#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

After replacing a few more bulbs and glancing back at the pics I posted above, realized the whole right side of my playfield GI is out. And two pop lamps. I need to grab a manual.
Anybody know what connector that might be, or something bad indicated by the lamp matrix?

For the GI, check the 9 pin GI connector near the four fuse bank on the PPB. Also check the 9 pin connector on the power supply board, upper right. Cracked traces are very common too. On my Robocop someone just jumpered one GI string to another to get the lights working again!

I can check on the pops when I get home, they are all lit at the same time if memory serves.

#1254 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You may be correct. But for the price I had to pay for the replacement kit I am not inclined to take chances.
Besides, Robocop, IMO, is unplayable without that airball deflector. The airballs were fun for about 5 minutes.

Fair enough too, it's your game and you want the protection for peace of mind.

I'd also look at the reason for the air balls. On most machines as they age it's due to the angle of the target face exceeding 90 degrees to the playfield, which causes a ramp effect. I can see this has occurred on your game. This angle is associated with metal fatigue of the target bracket that secures the target to the playfield, over time the target cops a beating from the ball, this bends the target back and eventually metal fatigue sets in. Once metal fatigue of the target bracket has occurred, bending or straightening the target bracket to realign the target to less than 90 degrees may ease the issue, but after a few strikes of the ball, it will bend the target back again. The flex associated with that exacerbates the sling effect and sends the ball trajectory upwards. New targets angled at less than 90 degrees to the playfield should greatly reduce, if not eliminate air balls.

Flipper strength can also be an issue, especially if the wrong coils are installed.

#1255 3 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

PM sent. Thanks man.
After replacing a few more bulbs and glancing back at the pics I posted above, realized the whole right side of my playfield GI is out. And two pop lamps. I need to grab a manual.
Anybody know what connector that might be, or something bad indicated by the lamp matrix?

I have an extra Robocop manual I will sell. Or you can get this one on Ebay.

ebay.com link: Data East Robocop Manual Original Not A Reproduction

I will have to sit down a study the manual for the GI lights. Right now, I have no clue. And after I study the manual I will probably still have no clue

Here is my go to Robocop telephone book of a repair guide. It is comprehensive. I printed one to hard copy; Just in case it ever gets taken down.

https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

#1256 3 years ago

I'll agree with Pinballer 73. My targets were bent up and not matching, but since I replaced them and installed WMS 11630 flippers, air balls on my RoboCop are virtually nonexistent.

#1257 3 years ago
Quoted from tullster:

I'll agree with Pinballer 73. My targets were bent up and not matching, but since I replaced them and installed WMS 11630 flippers, air balls on my RoboCop are virtually nonexistent.

On mine I have found bending them back and installing a good piece of dense foam (as was factory) behind the targets has reduced the air balls to nothing.

The foam is the key. On most DE pins the foam is long gone from age and abuse.

Some good dense automotive camper top foam works great.

And I still have my own airball deflector/protector just to be safe.

e01c0f8660a45e359c2d396c2317897ce2e50206 (resized).jpge01c0f8660a45e359c2d396c2317897ce2e50206 (resized).jpg
#1258 3 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

PM sent. Thanks man.
After replacing a few more bulbs and glancing back at the pics I posted above, realized the whole right side of my playfield GI is out. And two pop lamps. I need to grab a manual.
Anybody know what connector that might be, or something bad indicated by the lamp matrix?

I had the same problem last week when the left side GI just went out. I have a pin wiki page which helped. I jiggled CN9 on the power supply board and it all came back on. Check the page out.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#General_Illumination_Issues

#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

On mine I have found bending them back and installing a good piece of dense foam (as was factory) behind the targets has reduced the air balls to nothing.
The foam is the key. On most DE pins the foam is long gone from age and abuse.
Some good dense automotive camper top foam works great.
And I still have my own airball deflector/protector just to be safe.[quoted image]

Yes, foam behind the target is a must. And eventually when I get a new set of plastics I’ll be installing a protector for sure.

Great game. I’ve had mine stored over the winter and am looking forward to setting if back up soon!

#1260 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

On mine I have found bending them back and installing a good piece of dense foam (as was factory) behind the targets has reduced the air balls to nothing.
The foam is the key. On most DE pins the foam is long gone from age and abuse.
Some good dense automotive camper top foam works great.
And I still have my own airball deflector/protector just to be safe.[quoted image]

The foam definitely helps as it acts to cushion the blow from the ball striking the target. In the end it only helps to dampen the impact, if the targets have been hammered by repeated blows from ball, especially after the foam has long disintegrated or fallen off, metal fatigue occurs and the mounting bracket will then bend easily and repeatedly to open up the angle of the target face to the playfield and air balls start reoccurring.

Games of this age, especially ones that saw a lot of use will need maintenance or rebuilds. Often the targets are over looked or just had there faces wiped clean.

As we all know, there's a lot to do to ensure your game is functioning correctly. Rebuilds rather than a quick clean definitely pays off in the long term.

#1261 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Fair enough too, it's your game and you want the protection for peace of mind.
I'd also look at the reason for the air balls. On most machines as they age it's due to the angle of the target face exceeding 90 degrees to the playfield, which causes a ramp effect. I can see this has occurred on your game. This angle is associated with metal fatigue of the target bracket that secures the target to the playfield, over time the target cops a beating from the ball, this bends the target back and eventually metal fatigue sets in. Once metal fatigue of the target bracket has occurred, bending or straightening the target bracket to realign the target to less than 90 degrees may ease the issue, but after a few strikes of the ball, it will bend the target back again. The flex associated with that exacerbates the sling effect and sends the ball trajectory upwards. New targets angled at less than 90 degrees to the playfield should greatly reduce, if not eliminate air balls.
Flipper strength can also be an issue, especially if the wrong coils are installed.

Good points. My center SU targets brackets were bent back just a little bit. I straightened them out but just looked and they are really bent backwards. Maybe I need to consider making some new replacements.

And there is no foam backing. Looks like I will need some of that dense camper top for.

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I have a pin wiki page which helped. I jiggled CN9 on the power supply board and it all came back on. Check the page out.

Well I guess jiggling CN9 won’t help...but it’s the culprit. Apparently burnt pins were just “bypassed” by previous owner.

Awesome.

EDC49AEC-D905-4027-B252-4FD205F3C4BD (resized).jpegEDC49AEC-D905-4027-B252-4FD205F3C4BD (resized).jpeg
#1263 3 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Well I guess jiggling CN9 won’t help...but it’s the culprit. Apparently burnt pins were just “bypassed” by previous owner.
Awesome.
[quoted image]

All my DE have nothing but LEDs for good reason, the amp load on connectors drops significantly. It is damn near the first thing I do when they come in.

I have connectors, terminals and headers if you need them bro.

#1264 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I may have found a replacement pot that will work. It has the correct values but is does not have a long shaft adjuster. I ordered 3 of them since they were cheap. I should have them in a week. I hope it works.

Quoted from Lostcause:

Great, fingers crossed for you and let us know.

I received my replacement potentiometer and have made the swap. The good news is that the replacement pot works. The bad news is that my sounds, or lack of sounds still exist. I am going to recap the sound board and hope that helps. I hope my sound board is not blown. There is no replacements on the market. And Ebay units that are "untested" are selling for $200.00.

Onward: The pot. You are looking for a 10K LOG pot. What that means: 10K lets you make close mi-nute sound loudness adjustments. If you use a 100K replacement just the slightest twist of the knob will blast out your brains; In other words, you will struggle to dial in the loudness you want.

Now, about LOG. There are linear pots and logarithmic pots. Another name for LOG pots is Audio pots. So, for sounds , for audio, for music, you want an audio pot.

This is the animal. It is a double-gang pot. The one I found at

https://www.parts-express.com/search?keywords=023-646 cost $2.54.

Shipping was more than the part so I bought 3 (you all know how that works).

For a work bench, I screwed the bottom of the box the pot lives in to the prop stick support wood on the cab. Even with my jury rig work bench, a third hand to help hold parts in position would have been nice.

IMG_5885 (resized).JPGIMG_5885 (resized).JPG

The 2 left contact lugs are the ground lugs and they are wired with one resistor to both lugs.

Then you have 4 more wires: red and black on the lower stack. And green and white on the upper stack.

IMG_5883 (resized).JPGIMG_5883 (resized).JPG

IMG_5884 (resized).JPGIMG_5884 (resized).JPG

.

I bought a 3 foot section of hobby store/hardware store aluminum tubing and cut a short length and bonded it to the pot control shaft with some Gorilla Glue and now I have a long adjustment "handle" like the original.

IMG_5888 (resized).JPGIMG_5888 (resized).JPG

#1265 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I received my replacement potentiometer and have made the swap. The good news is that the replacement pot works. The bad news is that my sounds, or lack of sounds still exist. I am going to recap the sound board and hope that helps. I hope my sound board is not blown. There is no replacements on the market. And Ebay units that are "untested" are selling for $200.00.
Onward: The pot. You are looking for a 10K LOG pot. What that means: 10K lets you make close mi-nute sound loudness adjustments. If you use a 100K replacement just the slightest twist of the knob will blast out your brains; In other words, you will struggle to dial in the loudness you want.
Now, about LOG. There are linear pots and logarithmic pots. Another name for LOG pots is Audio pots. So, for sounds , for audio, for music, you want an audio pot.
This is the animal. It is a double-gang pot. The one I found at
https://www.parts-express.com/search?keywords=023-646 cost $2.54.
Shipping was more than the part so I bought 3 (you all know how that works).
For a work bench, I screwed the bottom of the box the pot lives in to the prop stick support wood on the cab. Even with my jury rig work bench, a third hand to help hold parts in position would have been nice.
[quoted image]
The 2 left contact lugs are the ground lugs and they are wired with one resistor to both lugs.
Then you have 4 more wires: red and black on the lower stack. And green and white on the upper stack.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I bought a 3 foot section of hobby store/hardware store aluminum tubing and cut a short length and bonded it to the pot control shaft with some Gorilla Glue and now I have a long adjustment "handle" like the original.
[quoted image]

This is your power box. It has one fuse holder; one pot, one on-off toggle switch, one service outlet, and one of those sliver boxes just like those on my classic Stern and Bally pins. You can see the green, white , and black wires coming in from the wall power cord.

Someone bought one of these power boxes off of Ebay a few months ago and paid $150.00 for the privilege. Save your money. Fix the one you have.

IMG_5891 (resized).JPGIMG_5891 (resized).JPGIMG_5890 (resized).JPGIMG_5890 (resized).JPGIMG_5889 (resized).JPGIMG_5889 (resized).JPG

#1266 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This is your power box. It has one fuse holder; one pot, on on-off toggle switch, one service outlet, and one of those sliver boxes just like those on my classic Stern and Bally pins. You can see the green, white , and black wires coming in from the wall power cord.
Someone bought one of these power boxes off of Ebay a few months ago and paid $150.00 for the privilege. Save your money. Fix the one you have.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm all back together now with my aluminum tube extension bonded to the pot shaft. The pot works as a replacement and it does work. But my sound board is sick. Replacing my pot was a waste of time other than the knowledge gained that there is a Robocop pot solution now.

I need a sound board magician.

IMG_5893 (resized).JPGIMG_5893 (resized).JPG

#1267 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'm all back together now with my aluminum tube extension bonded to the pot shaft. The pot works as a replacement and it does work. But my sound board is sick. Replacing my pot was a waste of time other than the knowledge gained that there is a Robocop pot solution now.
I need a sound board magician.
[quoted image]

I notice I now have some sort of rhythmic "beating heart" sound since I put on the new pot. I am clueless.

Have a listen. This sound did not exist until I installed the replacement pot. It is just thump thump thump thump---. It is not loud but it is there.

Seeking ideas and thoughts.

Thanks

#1268 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I notice I now have some sort of rhythmic "beating heart" sound since I put on the new pot. I am clueless.
Have a listen. This sound did not exist until I installed the replacement pot. It is just thump thump thump thump---. It is not loud but it is there.
Seeking ideas and thoughts.
Thanks

Some research is suggesting a voltage regulator 7905C may have blown which will take out 3 each MC3403 chips. Great Plains has these in stock. About $5.00 worth of chips and $8.00 worth of shipping (jeez).

I may also have a blown speaker amplifier. The board uses 3 MB3730 amplifiers at $12.00 each. And it would be from a different supplier with another shipping charge.

#1269 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Some research is suggesting a voltage regulator 7905C may have blown which will take out 3 each MC3403 chips. Great Plains has these in stock. About $5.00 worth of chips and $8.00 worth of shipping (jeez).
I may also have a blown speaker amplifier. The board uses 3 MB3730 amplifiers at $12.00 each. And it would be from a different supplier with another shipping charge.

Hopefully it's the 3403s. Good luck.

#1270 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Hopefully it's the 3403s. Good luck.

I'm biting the bullet and getting the 3730 amplifiers for $12.00 each. And just replace them all while I have to board on the work bench. When I still had sound, I did not have any sound from the left hand speaker nor the cabinet floor speaker. All 3 speakers each have their own amplifier.

#1271 3 years ago

I was just about to pull the trigger and order the parts I think I need to fix my sounds. But I needed to check something out so I turned Robocop on. And lo and behold, my sounds were back. I had the pot adjusted to try and pickup my anemic sounds and got blasted out of my shoes when I hit the credit button.

Search me. I don't have a clue. Both right and left panel speakers are blasting it. I still have problems with my cab floor speaker but Was already having a problem with that speaker.

My alpha-numeric display also got some of its mojo back. It is not perfect, but maybe the pin will continue to fix itself. Instead of going to the MPU and replacing the high voltage parts for the display I am going to leave it alone for awhile.

I'm happy; Don't get me wrong. But I loathe intermittent problems and I am not really a fan of mysteries that fix themselves.

I wish I knew what happened that morning when it all went to hell. But I'll take it working any way I can.

To celebrate: I have a play field I am almost ready to put into service. It should not take 3 or 4 more days to finish. Once I am done with that play field , I am going to do a topside teardown of my Robocop play field, clean it up, shop it, and install my new plastics.

But before I put it back together, I will scan the play field and get scans of the places some of you want to make decals of. But that is a couple of weeks out.

#1272 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was just about to pull the trigger and order the parts I think I need to fix my sounds. But I needed to check something out so I turned Robocop on. And lo and behold, my sounds were back. I had the pot adjusted to try and pickup my anemic sounds and got blasted out of my shoes when I hit the credit button.
Search me. I don't have a clue. Both right and left panel speakers are blasting it. I still have problems with my cab floor speaker but Was already having a problem with that speaker.
My alpha-numeric display also got some of its mojo back. It is not perfect, but maybe the pin will continue to fix itself. Instead of going to the MPU and replacing the high voltage parts for the display I am going to leave it alone for awhile.
I'm happy; Don't get me wrong. But I loathe intermittent problems and I am not really a fan of mysteries that fix themselves.
I wish I knew what happened that morning when it all went to hell. But I'll take it working any way I can.
To celebrate: I have a play field I am almost ready to put into service. It should not take 3 or 4 more days to finish. Once I am done with that play field , I am going to do a topside teardown of my Robocop play field, clean it up, shop it, and install my new plastics.
But before I put it back together, I will scan the play field and get scans of the places some of you want to make decals of. But that is a couple of weeks out.

Where I would start would be the power supply. reflow headers and look for any sketchy connection points.

#1273 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Where I would start would be the power supply. reflow headers and look for any sketchy connection points.

Good call. Sometimes I don't think straight. I'll do that in a couple of days.

#1274 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I received my replacement potentiometer and have made the swap. The good news is that the replacement pot works. The bad news is that my sounds, or lack of sounds still exist. I am going to recap the sound board and hope that helps. I hope my sound board is not blown. There is no replacements on the market. And Ebay units that are "untested" are selling for $200.00.
Onward: The pot. You are looking for a 10K LOG pot. What that means: 10K lets you make close mi-nute sound loudness adjustments. If you use a 100K replacement just the slightest twist of the knob will blast out your brains; In other words, you will struggle to dial in the loudness you want.
Now, about LOG. There are linear pots and logarithmic pots. Another name for LOG pots is Audio pots. So, for sounds , for audio, for music, you want an audio pot.
This is the animal. It is a double-gang pot. The one I found at
https://www.parts-express.com/search?keywords=023-646 cost $2.54.
Shipping was more than the part so I bought 3 (you all know how that works).
For a work bench, I screwed the bottom of the box the pot lives in to the prop stick support wood on the cab. Even with my jury rig work bench, a third hand to help hold parts in position would have been nice.
[quoted image]
The 2 left contact lugs are the ground lugs and they are wired with one resistor to both lugs.
Then you have 4 more wires: red and black on the lower stack. And green and white on the upper stack.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I bought a 3 foot section of hobby store/hardware store aluminum tubing and cut a short length and bonded it to the pot control shaft with some Gorilla Glue and now I have a long adjustment "handle" like the original.
[quoted image]

Two good things, IMO, is that now there is solution for a potentiometer for any DE pin that uses a double-gang pot. The replacement pot is working well.

And the display cable is a 34" 26-pin ribbon cable available as a custom order from https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=99

or as a generic buy from Amazon; There is nothing special about it.

#1275 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Where I would start would be the power supply. reflow headers and look for any sketchy connection points.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Good call. Sometimes I don't think straight. I'll do that in a couple of days.

Some of the pins in my connectors had become de-tinned. I replaced all of the connectors. But I don't IDC pin tools and left IDCs alone. There has been no change. The game is playing well but my alpha numeric display has not fixed itself so I will probably replace the parts that control the high voltage on the power supply.

My sounds are working good. The new potentiometer gives me a full range of volume. Now knowing what I was doing, I bought 3 pots so I could have safety back up.

Now, I have 2 spares. I am going to keep one. But the other one is for sale if someone would like to have one. I'll $20.00 shipped to anywhere in the continental U.S.

If you need to replace your pot, this one will make you feel like you never left home.

If you know how to solder, it is an easy swap. 6 wires.

IMG_5963 (resized).JPGIMG_5963 (resized).JPG

#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Some of the pins in my connectors had become de-tinned. I replaced all of the connectors. But I don't IDC pin tools and left IDCs alone. There has been no change. The game is playing well but my alpha numeric display has not fixed itself so I will probably replace the parts that control the high voltage on the power supply.
My sounds are working good. The new potentiometer gives me a full range of volume. Now knowing what I was doing, I bought 3 pots so I could have safety back up.
Now, I have 2 spares. I am going to keep one. But the other one is for sale if someone would like to have one. I'll $20.00 shipped to anywhere in the continental U.S.
If you need to replace your pot, this one will make you feel like you never left home.
If you know how to solder, it is an easy swap. 6 wires.
[quoted image]

Good to ‘hear’ the sound is working
I have just fixed an operation thunder an operator sold me that they couldn’t fix and had a garbage display sometimes with other faults and tracked it down to a dodgy ribbon cable, just needed to move it a bit in the connector to get it to work but have ordered a replacement. Intermittent faults can be pretty annoying.

#1277 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Good to ‘hear’ the sound is working
I have just fixed an operation thunder an operator sold me that they couldn’t fix and had a garbage display sometimes with other faults and tracked it down to a dodgy ribbon cable, just needed to move it a bit in the connector to get it to work but have ordered a replacement. Intermittent faults can be pretty annoying.

I need to clarify about getting my sound back. Before is all went to hell, all I had was my upper right panel speaker working. Now both panel speakers are working. My cabinet floor speaker is still not working and that happened when I replaced the speaker several weeks before this mess I am fixing started. And my sounds from the inlanes have mostly disappeared.

So, I have gone ahead and ordered the parts I need from Great Plains Electronics. I already had a capacitor replacement kit so I am going to recap and replace the amplifier for the cabinet speaker. There also some socketed ICs I would like to replace but some are obsolete and my search for these has not been successful, so far.

#1278 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I need to clarify about getting my sound back. Before is all went to hell, all I had was my upper right panel speaker working. Now both panel speakers are working. My cabinet floor speaker is still not working and that happened when I replaced the speaker several weeks before this mess I am fixing started. And my sounds from the inlanes have mostly disappeared.
So, I have gone ahead and ordered the parts I need from Great Plains Electronics. I already had a capacitor replacement kit so I am going to recap and replace the amplifier for the cabinet speaker. There also some socketed ICs I would like to replace but some are obsolete and my search for these has not been successful, so far.

Ahhh crap, hope you get it fixed. Sound boards can be tricky to fix so good luck with it, I had fun with a wpc one once. One thing after another but ok if you can source the parts.

#1279 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ahhh crap, hope you get it fixed. Sound boards can be tricky to fix so good luck with it, I had fun with a wpc one once. One thing after another but ok if you can source the parts.

And just now I have stumbled onto a cap kit for DE power supply boards so I am going to buy this kit and recap my power supply as well.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CAPKITDE-00

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1129-yorktown-arcade-supply/02147-data-east-power-supply-capacitor-rebuild-kit-for-520-5000-00

#1280 3 years ago

I’ve just placed a £400 order with them

I was advised by a guy here that it’s worth changing that big capacitor in the bottom left of the backbox as that could cause some funny issues. I changed mine for new one just in case.

#1281 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I’ve just placed a £400 order with them
I was advised by a guy here that it’s worth changing that big capacitor in the bottom left of the backbox as that could cause some funny issues. I changed mine for new one just in case.

I'd like to change that huge cap. Do you have the part number? Did you get it US or UK, or Europe?

There is this rig but I already have a couple of bridge rectifiers in stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5040-09051-RC

Flippers
=====

I closed the gaps on my flipper switches several months ago and it help get rid of, or at least improve, my weak flipper condition. Lately the right flipper is putting out some soft hits.

I stumbled onto something in the manual I use and see where a bad bridge rectifier can contribute to weak flippers. So, I am going to replace bridge rectifiers and would like to replace that big cap. If you have that part number and where you bought, it would be appreciated.

Screen Shot 2021-03-20 at 2.15.42 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-03-20 at 2.15.42 PM (resized).png

#1282 3 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I’ve just placed a £400 order with them
I was advised by a guy here that it’s worth changing that big capacitor in the bottom left of the backbox as that could cause some funny issues. I changed mine for new one just in case.

I'd have to look at a diagram, but cant recall it being a critical item.

#1283 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I'd have to look at a diagram, but cant recall it being a critical item.

Was from Jim MyPinballs aka applejuice.

“ Replace for better lamp matrix lamps, brighter, less flicker, strobing, less dimming when all on. Less noise through speakers etc
Essential maintenance upgrade for all old games. Improvements for changing this are, better lamp matrix lamps, brighter, less flicker, strobing, less dimming when all on, or large amount on etc. Less noise through speakers etc, less noise on display. (wont solve led flicker issues though). Can also help with random game resets i have heard on occasion to.

Used in all Williams Games from System 3 up to end of System 11 and all Data East games and the Sega games until whitestar came in.

The replacement one i use are slightly smaller than the massive originals, but are still the original sized screw terminals. The sizes are:

Spec: 30000uf 25v
Tolerance: 20%
Diameter: 36 mm
Length: 52 mm
Lead Spacing: 12.8 mm
Colour: Black

#1284 3 years ago
103A40A3-E5B6-4BFD-8C6A-F5C6DB5A7014 (resized).jpeg103A40A3-E5B6-4BFD-8C6A-F5C6DB5A7014 (resized).jpeg
#1285 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I'd have to look at a diagram, but cant recall it being a critical item.

When I first got my 'refurbished' Robocop I had to send the power supply board to an engineer for a rebuild. When it arrived back the large capacitor was loose from its' top solder position (I did not notice this when I put it back on the pin and I got a loud buzzing noise, it was so loud that I thought I had better switch the pin off). I then noticed the loose connection.

I phoned the guy who fixed it and he said that it wasn't important and to re-solder the connection.

At the time I did not even have a soldering iron.

I took the whole pin to an engineer friend of mine to sort (he wasn't a friend as such at and got paid for the work). He had it for about a month.
When it got to him the capacitor was completely off the board. He fixed it and did a number of other jobs that I had listed for him.

I picked it up and I have had no issues with buzzing since.

I wonder what the purpose of that large capacitor is.

#1286 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:I wonder what the purpose of that large capacitor is.

From what Jim said I’m guessing it’s stopping the power dropping too much when demand gets high by storing some, maybe.

1 week later
#1287 3 years ago

After a year of trying I am just about there with my repro decal. Slight border resize and tweak the grey colour and I think I will be there.

20210327_174438 (resized).jpg20210327_174438 (resized).jpg
#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

After a year of trying I am just about there with my repro decal. Slight border resize and tweak the grey colour and I think I will be there.
[quoted image]

If you can hold on a little bit longer.....

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

If you can hold on a little bit longer.....

Of course I can.

#1290 3 years ago

Did anyone get a chance to check if, before x2 is lit by 209, that when the ball lock right lane randomly awards x2 that the x2 light comes on? Mine doesn't.

#1291 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Did anyone get a chance to check if, before x2 is lit by 209, that when the ball lock right lane randomly awards x2 that the x2 light comes on? Mine doesn't.

I will have a look next time I’m playing.

#1292 2 years ago

Ordered this mid December and only arrived last week, from a slow boat from Korea.
Will probably add an led strip underneath to come on with something.

56FCB99E-416F-4546-AA6C-2EFC9900B94E (resized).jpeg56FCB99E-416F-4546-AA6C-2EFC9900B94E (resized).jpeg
#1293 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ordered this mid December and only arrived last week, from a slow boat from Korea.
Will probably add an led strip underneath to come on with something.
[quoted image]

3d print?

#1294 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ordered this mid December and only arrived last week, from a slow boat from Korea.
Will probably add an led strip underneath to come on with something.
[quoted image]

I made my topper based on a guy on here's better one.
It flashes with the red and blue flasher lamps via a length of Comet matrix cable and led strips and attached to the lugs on the lamp sockets with crocodile clips.

20210331_184931 (resized).jpg20210331_184931 (resized).jpg20210331_184937 (resized).jpg20210331_184937 (resized).jpg
#1295 2 years ago

I looked at the 3D printed ones but managed to get a BB version for the same price, if someone beats my score I will grab it as it’s loaded and shoot them in the backside

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154225009816

#1296 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ordered this mid December and only arrived last week, from a slow boat from Korea.
Will probably add an led strip underneath to come on with something.
[quoted image]

I bought the base pistol and found youtube video to make it look like a Robocop gun. For a minute, I thought I might just buy one like yours. And then I saw the price. I'll will work on my conversion.

#1297 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I made my topper based on a guy on here's better one.

I’d like to build hipster’s topper, and use and convert the shooter to lostcause’s gun like BF, Shadow, DH, etc.

#1298 2 years ago

I believe my topper is the one hipster is referring to. I think his came out nice too! Great job

IMG_20200321_174645 (resized).jpgIMG_20200321_174645 (resized).jpg

#1299 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I bought the base pistol and found youtube video to make it look like a Robocop gun. For a minute, I thought I might just buy one like yours. And then I saw the price. I'll will work on my conversion.

He put the price up unfortunately as it was cheaper back in December when I ordered mine.
I was thinking of fitting some kind of fogger to have smoke coming out of the barrel but think I will just have an led strip linked to a flasher.
Not sure I like it as a topper but will leave it there for now, might be better once the led flashers are fitted.

The topper above looks great.

#1300 2 years ago

Had a couple of small green led strips in the spares box so fitted them and driven from the target practice insert in front of the right flipper which I thought would be the best one. Lights the gun up just enough, subtle but good enough. Happier with it now.

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