(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to


By JCJP

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Thehipster
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There are 1128 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 23.
#1051 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Is a lot of this action due to Brexit?

Yes, a lot more hassle for company’s to ship to the uk from EU for tax reasons so some no longer want our business.

#1052 20 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Yes, a lot more hassle for company’s to ship to the uk from EU for tax reasons so some no longer want our business.

I take it that not everyone is worshiping at the alter of Bruce ?

#1053 20 days ago

Cliffys ramp protectors came today, would have been rude not to fit them while waiting for other bits to arrive.
These were meant for gottlieb Genesis I think and just need the taps bent a bit to fit over the ramp.
Fit pretty snug and only held by the one nut, once I can test I will see if it moves and needs some double sided tape added.
Right hand side of my ramp has a bad crack so this will fix that from getting smashed up even more.

15FF8AFB-D17C-41FF-BD52-9999C12117FA (resized).jpeg4CF56178-CBAC-40A5-BC69-1323BA61DB9A (resized).jpeg9DCDCEE5-F8D3-4678-AD3F-6C75291C444A (resized).jpegAC630DD3-5B39-406E-91E3-4D09C7EC3C21 (resized).jpeg
#1054 20 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Cliffys ramp protectors came today, would have been rude not to fit them while waiting for other bits to arrive.
These were meant for gottlieb Genesis I think and just need the taps bent a bit to fit over the ramp.
Fit pretty snug and only held by the one nut, once I can test I will see if it moves and needs some double sided tape added.
Right hand side of my ramp has a bad crack so this will fix that from getting smashed up even more.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I don't think those ramp protectors will do anything you you at all with the current construction. The way I see it is that the ball impact energy to the protector is just going to be transferred to the ramp itself since the protector is mounted to the ramp. The protector needs to be mounted in such a way that ball impact is transferred to something else behinds the ramp.

IMO, some sort of mounting devise needs to mount to the post so the post can take the impact.

The one on my Robocop was cracked when I bought it. Some idiot piled on a crap load of glue thinking that would do some good. It didn't. I ground off a lot of the glue but could not get it all and the ramp was still just as cracked. The crack did not hurt performance but it was and is ugly.

IMG_5380 (resized).JPG

To keep it from cracking any more I had to buttress on the backside with some polycarbonate plastic (Lexan). This "repaired" the crack and made the area stronger. But I located a non-broken ramp and now use it. But I also buttressed my replacement with some poly on the backside. Now it is good and solid.

IMO, this is what you need to do to keep it from cracking anymore. If you look carefully, on the other side, the inboard side, you can see another crack I did not see until just now. With the ramp, the cracks on both sides have originated from the edge off the holes the locate the rivets that hold that thin piece of metal. I just now really noticed that; I am going need to do this buttress work to my unbroken ramp so it does not wind up looking like this one.

IMG_5381 (resized).JPG

#1055 20 days ago

I think it will be ok, the front of the ramp protector is mounted on the post, that will take most of the impact.
Time will tell but I’m confident.
Saying that a bit more of reinforcement/bonding might not be a bad thing. I will keep an eye on the crack and see if it gets worse.
Flipper board just arrived, few more bits and I can try and get it all back together again and see if it works 100%
A6AC969A-0CAC-44D5-8A0F-D1638F36EDC4 (resized).jpeg

#1056 20 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I think it will be ok, the front of the ramp protector is mounted on the post, that will take most of the impact.
Time will tell but I’m confident.
Flipperboard just arrived, few more bits and I can try and get it all back together again and see if it works 100%[quoted image]

I did not see that the protector was anchored to the post. I'm sorry.

Looking forward to how you like your new flipper board. Especially the ramp shot. After looking closer, this flipper board is built different then the Rottendog FLP023 board. Maybe it will hit harder then the Rottendog board.

It looks like you will need to stock up on those short length fuses being used, too.

#1057 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not see that the protector was anchored to the post. I'm sorry.
Looking forward to how you like your new flipper board. Especially the ramp shot. After looking closer, this flipper board is built different then the Rottendog FLP023 board. Maybe it will hit harder then the Rottendog board.
It looks like you will need to stock up on those short length fuses being used, too.

EDIT: Would you please show a picture of that Cliffy ramp protector before it is installed? I'd like to see how it is anchored. And maybe buy one for myself.

#1058 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not see that the protector was anchored to the post. I'm sorry.
Looking forward to how you like your new flipper board. Especially the ramp shot. After looking closer, this flipper board is built different then the Rottendog FLP023 board. Maybe it will hit harder then the Rottendog board.
It looks like you will need to stock up on those short length fuses being used, too.

Hey no worries, I thought you didn’t see that it was anchored as it’s hard to see that.
The pic is from cliffys website, Genesis kit but he sends them out straight for Robocop. You just need to bend the tab up a bit to get it to wrap around the ramp at the top.
Just say for Robocop if you order.

I read on here that the pinled board was the one to get, we shall see. I have some of those horrible little fuses lol

6A7F9405-4938-409E-B53D-A424724603F5 (resized).jpeg
#1059 20 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Hey no worries, I thought you didn’t see that it was anchored as it’s hard to see that.
The pic is from cliffys website, Genesis kit but he sends them out straight for Robocop. You just need to bend the tab up a bit to get it to wrap around the ramp at the top.
Just say for Robocop if you order.
I read on here that the pinled board was the one to get, we shall see. I have some of those horrible little fuses lol
[quoted image]

Thank you. That is what I wanted to see. Matter of fact, an OP friend has a Genesis pin on route and we were playing the hell out to last night. I might consider getting one of these.

Anxiously waiting for you to give your opinion on how this board performs.

#1060 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you. That is what I wanted to see. Matter of fact, an OP friend has a Genesis pin on route and we were playing the hell out to last night. I might consider getting one of these.
Anxiously waiting for you to give your opinion on how this board performs.

Genesis looks a great game and on my hit list.
Will update as soon as it’s all back together.

#1061 19 days ago

Took the mpu out today to fix the slingshot that quit, was told boards are clean by seller.
Special coil transistors Q8 on have been ‘worked’ on and two pins resting against the long join, don’t know how they even worked!
All working now and glad not to have to see that mess until the next time.....

9B180686-6D88-4F1F-AFF1-82CCFAEA9247 (resized).jpeg
#1062 19 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Took the mpu out today to fix the slingshot that quit, was told boards are clean by seller.
Special coil transistors Q8 on have been ‘worked’ on and two pins resting against the long join, don’t know how they even worked!
All working now and glad not to have to see that mess until the next time.....
[quoted image]

Mine was like that before the engineer got to work on it. I don't think mine was as bad but the hack was a diamond of short wiring all around the Q10 area. I didn't know where to start.

Actually having said that I messed up the power supply board on a Zacarria that I acquired recently and a guy on the Zac forum in pinballinfo.com talked me through replacing all sorts of parts (bridge rectifiers, transistors, resistors, heat sinks and what to do with thermal paste) until it was fixed (all done via messages) and I got it fully restored thanks to his generosity and found out loads about AC and DC voltage readings and testing parts and connector before powering up.

My Q10 has gone again but I think it was a wire from the end of stroke switch which I found to be loose and I think it may have shorted the coil on again and blowing the slo-blo 2.5 fuse. The engineer has told me not to attempt it myself but I am going to look at it when the tip122s arrive and if the area around Q10 is clean I may give it a go but probably not. Anywhere near the wire hack and it will be going to him but he's not available for a couple of weeks.

The game is playable with just one sling but I want it back up to normal asap.

By the way I have just ordered ramp protectors from Cliffy. He seems like a top bloke.

#1063 18 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Mine was like that before the engineer got to work on it. I don't think mine was as bad but the hack was a diamond of short wiring all around the Q10 area. I didn't know where to start.
Actually having said that I messed up the power supply board on a Zacarria that I acquired recently and a guy on the Zac forum in pinballinfo.com talked me through replacing all sorts of parts (bridge rectifiers, transistors, resistors, heat sinks and what to do with thermal paste) until it was fixed (all done via messages) and I got it fully restored thanks to his generosity and found out loads about AC and DC voltage readings and testing parts and connector before powering up.
My Q10 has gone again but I think it was a wire from the end of stroke switch which I found to be loose and I think it may have shorted the coil on again and blowing the slo-blo 2.5 fuse. The engineer has told me not to attempt it myself but I am going to look at it when the tip122s arrive and if the area around Q10 is clean I may give it a go but probably not. Anywhere near the wire hack and it will be going to him but he's not available for a couple of weeks.
The game is playable with just one sling but I want it back up to normal asap.
By the way I have just ordered ramp protectors from Cliffy. He seems like a top bloke.

I’m an electrician and did some hobby electronics when I was a kid so that has helped, practice makes perfect but some things are best left to the experienced. Think you should be ok changing the tip122. I use Jim-myPinballs, not cheap but he is the best when I need to. He just built a new mpu for my Robowar, really nice board.

Just waiting on metal posts then I can start putting it all back together, got new flipper coils as wrong ones fitted. Also the pinled flipper board to try so glad I have fitted the ramp protectors!!! Cliffy is the man.

#1064 18 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't think those ramp protectors will do anything you you at all with the current construction. The way I see it is that the ball impact energy to the protector is just going to be transferred to the ramp itself since the protector is mounted to the ramp. The protector needs to be mounted in such a way that ball impact is transferred to something else behinds the ramp.
IMO, some sort of mounting devise needs to mount to the post so the post can take the impact.
The one on my Robocop was cracked when I bought it. Some idiot piled on a crap load of glue thinking that would do some good. It didn't. I ground off a lot of the glue but could not get it all and the ramp was still just as cracked. The crack did not hurt performance but it was and is ugly.
[quoted image]
To keep it from cracking any more I had to buttress on the backside with some polycarbonate plastic (Lexan). This "repaired" the crack and made the area stronger. But I located a non-broken ramp and now use it. But I also buttressed my replacement with some poly on the backside. Now it is good and solid.
IMO, this is what you need to do to keep it from cracking anymore. If you look carefully, on the other side, the inboard side, you can see another crack I did not see until just now. With the ramp, the cracks on both sides have originated from the edge off the holes the locate the rivets that hold that thin piece of metal. I just now really noticed that; I am going need to do this buttress work to my unbroken ramp so it does not wind up looking like this one.
[quoted image]

I used a Gottlieb 1½" long bracket that seemed to work.
1) item 21158

#1065 18 days ago

Ok, today I put it back together.
No ball hop now, new return guides.
Fitted new correct coils/diodes and first game random weak flipper.
Ramp protectors need double sided tape or something.
Fitted Pinled flipper board played about 30 plus games, no random weak flipper yet. Normally would have shown by a few games.
Pretty powerful, going to need an air ball plastic on the ramp to stop it flying off now and again.
Need some new bumper switches and it’s all good.
Fingers crossed.

#1066 18 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Ok, today I put it back together.
No ball hop now, new return guides.
Fitted new correct coils/diodes and first game random weak flipper.
Ramp protectors need double sided tape or something.
Fitted Pinled flipper board played about 30 plus games, no random weak flipper yet. Normally would have shown by a few games.
Pretty powerful, going to need an air ball plastic on the ramp to stop it flying off now and again.
Need some new bumper switches and it’s all good.
Fingers crossed.

Can you make the ramp shots?

#1067 18 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Can you make the ramp shots?

Very very easy, just got over 8 million.

#1068 17 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Very very easy, just got over 8 million.

It looks, to me, that your board a little more robust than the Rottendog board I had.

Glad to read that you are up an running.

#1069 17 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I used a Gottlieb 1½" long bracket that seemed to work.
1) item 21158

Vex-tor, where can I buy this bracket at?

Is this something that Steve at PBR would have?

#1070 17 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Vex-tor, where can I buy this bracket at?
Is this something that Steve at PBR would have?

I think so... Marco Specialties has it listed...
I bought several many years ago, from a Gottlieb distributor..
That was back in 1986... used them to beef-up the side walls of Gold Wings etc.
The part worked really well on the ramp assembly entrance of the pinball machine by Data East,
Back to the Future.

#1071 17 days ago

Was pretty tanked up last night but still managed to get my wife to take some footage at the end of my best game.
Still working fine today.

#1072 17 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Was pretty tanked up last night but still managed to get my wife to take some footage at the end of my best game.
Still working fine today.

I see your vid with the the pinled.com board installed. Thanks for posting that.

Would appreciate you keeping us posted on how it performs with a little bit of time on it.

The company ships world wide. I am thinking I may have to give one a try.

#1073 15 days ago

I fitted extra flipper springs yesterday as I wasn’t happy with them, I fitted new rebuild kits but there was too much play in the linkages for my liking.
You could see the flipper move when you cradled the ball and bounce overs not good at all because of the play in the linkages.
It has made them a little less powerful but that’s not a bad thing as they are overpowered now anyway, I also made the table steeper. Was set to 6.5 and at least 7.0 now, added an inch to the back. Plays so much better now, will check what the actual angle is. Made it harder which I like.
Flippers feel solid now.
Also with the pinled flipper board likes the flipper switch gap wider.

Was getting crazy air balls from the ramp, I loosened the screws on the flap at the entrance which has made entry smoother so only get the odd air ball now which is pretty exciting

Put about 50 games on it yesterday, 6 mil was my best but harder now.

#1074 15 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I fitted extra flipper springs yesterday as I wasn’t happy with them, I fitted new rebuild kits but there was too much play in the linkages for my liking.
You could see the flipper move when you cradled the ball and bounce overs not good at all because of the play in the linkages.
It has made them a little less powerful but that’s not a bad thing as they are overpowered now anyway, I also made the table steeper. Was set to 6.5 and at least 7.0 now, added an inch to the back. Plays so much better now, will check what the actual angle is. Made it harder which I like.
Flippers feel solid now.
Also with the pinled flipper board likes the flipper switch gap wider.
Was getting crazy air balls from the ramp, I loosened the screws on the flap at the entrance which has made entry smoother so only get the odd air ball now which is pretty exciting
Put about 50 games on it yesterday, 6 mil was my best but harder now.

I appreciate the info you are sharing.

#1075 14 days ago

UPDATE on my slingshot problem.
My board went to an engineer and he swapped the Q10 transistor tip122 and removed some of the really bad hacking and tidied the area up around the special sling coil transistors.
This worked for a short while and then the coil locked on again and blew the fuse.
I today changed the tip122 myself and took care to copy the original soldering and when I put the board back on the fuse blew again. It has also taken out the right and centre thumper bumpers (fuses are fine).
Does anyone know if the component in the picture has any relevance to the problems I am having. It is attached to one of the pair of switches on the slingshot. The other switch does not have one, nor a diode. The other slingshot switches are a mirror image.
I have messaged another engineer who comes highly recommended for a cost to repair the board.

switch (resized).jpg
#1076 14 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

UPDATE on my slingshot problem.
My board went to an engineer and he swapped the Q10 transistor tip122 and removed some of the really bad hacking and tidied the area up around the special sling coil transistors.
This worked for a short while and then the coil locked on again and blew the fuse.
I today changed the tip122 myself and took care to copy the original soldering and when I put the board back on the fuse blew again. It has also taken out the right and centre thumper bumpers (fuses are fine).
Does anyone know if the component in the picture has any relevance to the problems I am having. It is attached to one of the pair of switches on the slingshot. The other switch does not have one, nor a diode. The other slingshot switches are a mirror image.
I have messaged another engineer who comes highly recommended for a cost to repair the board.
[quoted image]

Capacitors can go bad and short out. I had cap go bad on the tilt bob of one of my early solid states and it would cause the game to tilt 100% of the time. I clipped one wire and the game has been behaving perfectly for several years now and I never tilt

Some of those tiny caps on my Robo have had a wire cut and are non-functional. I'm thinking you can clip one of the wire and disable the cap. You can always buy replacements and reinstall. Worth a try.

With the glass off, can you manually operate each switch and see which one is causing the fuse to blow? Or is your pic of the item that is causing you problems?

#1077 14 days ago

My capacitors had come loose and slings were still working so you could cut one end off like above.
Jim will probably give you some advice if he is repairing/tidying your board.

#1078 14 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Capacitors can go bad and short out. I had cap go bad on the tilt bob of one of my early solid states and it would cause the game to tilt 100% of the time. I clipped one wire and the game has been behaving perfectly for several years now and I never tilt
Some of those tiny caps on my Robo have had a wire cut and are non-functional. I'm thinking you can clip one of the wire and disable the cap. You can always buy replacements and reinstall. Worth a try.
With the glass off, can you manually operate each switch and see which one is causing the fuse to blow? Or is your pic of the item that is causing you problems?

It could be a switch but there are no shorts and they all seem in good order but the q10 transistor area is blowing the fuse. As I said the tip122 was replaced and it worked for a short period

This pic shows the state of the board before tidy up. I will take another pic tomorrow.

20201117_173744 (resized).jpg20201117_173800 (resized).jpg

#1079 14 days ago

Here are a couple of pics of the switches on the left slinger.

switch1 (resized).jpgswitch2 (resized).jpg
#1080 13 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

With the glass off, can you manually operate each switch and see which one is causing the fuse to blow? Or is your pic of the item that is causing you problems?

Just to clarify the fuse blows on startup.

#1081 13 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Just to clarify the fuse blows on startup.

Start up as in turning the pin on. Or start up meaning you hit the credit button to start a game?

If you pulled the fuse beforehand, can you still do a start up? If you can start it up without the fuse, what happens to a good fuse it you were to start up and just hols a fusion your fingers and make contact with the fuse and fuse clips? Will the fuse still blow? ( I don't know if that would mean anything, I'm just trying to figure out a good place to start.

#1082 13 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Start up as in turning the pin on. Or start up meaning you hit the credit button to start a game?
If you pulled the fuse beforehand, can you still do a start up? If you can start it up without the fuse, what happens to a good fuse it you were to start up and just hols a fusion your fingers and make contact with the fuse and fuse clips? Will the fuse still blow? ( I don't know if that would mean anything, I'm just trying to figure out a good place to start.

When I switch on the pin the slingshot fires and blows the fuse immediately. This morning I switched on the pin after changing the tip122 at Q10 and that was what happened. I watched the slingshot arm fire and stay for about 3 or 4 seconds, checked the fuse and it was blown. I then re-seated the two connectors next to the fuses, power in and power out to the special coils, put in a new fuse and tried it again and the fuse blew.

At the same time the centre and right thumper bumpers stopped working and I checked their fuses and they were fine.

I will post a pic of the refurbished and tidied back of the board tomorrow. You might notice something obvious that is outside of my limited knowledge.

#1083 13 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

When I switch on the pin the slingshot fires and blows the fuse immediately. This morning I switched on the pin after changing the tip122 at Q10 and that was what happened. I watched the slingshot arm fire and stay for about 3 or 4 seconds, checked the fuse and it was blown. I then re-seated the two connectors next to the fuses, power in and power out to the special coils, put in a new fuse and tried it again and the fuse blew.
At the same time the centre and right thumper bumpers stopped working and I checked their fuses and they were fine.
I will post a pic of the refurbished and tidied back of the board tomorrow. You might notice something obvious that is outside of my limited knowledge.

It probably means nothing but I am interested in what happen when you pull the fuse and do a start up? And then what happens when you immediately touch the ends of a good fuse to the fuse clips. I will assume with the fuse out that your problems go away; Of course, nothing on that circuit will be working. But what happens if you immediately take a good fuse and touch it to the fuse clips. Does the fuse blow at that time?

#1084 13 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

When I switch on the pin the slingshot fires and blows the fuse immediately. This morning I switched on the pin after changing the tip122 at Q10 and that was what happened. I watched the slingshot arm fire and stay for about 3 or 4 seconds, checked the fuse and it was blown. I then re-seated the two connectors next to the fuses, power in and power out to the special coils, put in a new fuse and tried it again and the fuse blew.
At the same time the centre and right thumper bumpers stopped working and I checked their fuses and they were fine.
I will post a pic of the refurbished and tidied back of the board tomorrow. You might notice something obvious that is outside of my limited knowledge.

I can’t see clear enough from the pic of the board but I would be checking with a meter that the pins are not shorting anywhere, and checking the transistors to see if they are blown. Easy with a meter. Sounds like there is a short if it has now taken out the 2 pops. Are the 2 pops either side of Q10?

#1085 13 days ago

Check around Q8, Q9 & Q10.

1EBFBF54-86F1-469B-9AF3-4686E5AE2162 (resized).jpeg
#1086 13 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I can’t see clear enough from the pic of the board but I would be checking with a meter that the pins are not shorting anywhere, and checking the transistors to see if they are blown. Easy with a meter. Sounds like there is a short if it has now taken out the 2 pops. Are the 2 pops either side of Q10?

I tested all of the transistors on the board and both the centre and the left poppers were gone but the q10 was okay (the one blowing the fuses).
Strangely the left popper and the left slinger transistors were registering 8.82 ohms instead of between 4 and 6.
I tested them with a DMM with the black lead on the centre and the red and left pin and then right pin. I'm still a bit of a novice with these things but I think I did it correctly.

Weather permitting I am taking the board to Jim tomorrow and while it is away I will test the switches, switch diodes and capacitors under the playfield.

I have a feeling there is shorting going on where the board has been repaired before.

I tested the coils (decided to check all of them since I had the top up). Every diode and coil was good. I think I will order two new leaf switches for the left slinger while I am on.

That way all should be ready for the board returning.

I have every faith in Jim so we will see in a couple of weeks. So fingers crossed.

#1087 13 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It probably means nothing but I am interested in what happen when you pull the fuse and do a start up? And then what happens when you immediately touch the ends of a good fuse to the fuse clips. I will assume with the fuse out that your problems go away; Of course, nothing on that circuit will be working. But what happens if you immediately take a good fuse and touch it to the fuse clips. Does the fuse blow at that time?

Everything except the slingshot works with this fuse out. So a game can be played as it must be the only thing on that circuit.

I have found out a couple of things about the connectors. The left GI went this morning and it was simply the connector not sitting exactly right. The same with the diagnostic from the front door wouldn't let me in until I re-seated the connector on the board.

Board going to expert tomorrow for re-furb and repair.

#1088 13 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Everything except the slingshot works with this fuse out. So a game can be played as it must be the only thing on that circuit.
I have found out a couple of things about the connectors. The left GI went this morning and it was simply the connector not sitting exactly right. The same with the diagnostic from the front door wouldn't let me in until I re-seated the connector on the board.
Board going to expert tomorrow for re-furb and repair.

OK, your pops and slings all work off of CN-19 connector. There are two transistors and two resistors for each sling and each pop. Have you replaced both transistors?

#1089 13 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK, your pops and slings all work off of CN-19 connector. There are two transistors and two resistors for each sling and each pop. Have you replaced both transistors?

I started to replace tip122 at the pointsa where I didn't get a reading but the board is not in great condition so I am leaving it it to the professionals and taking it to an engineer tomorrow. He comes highly recommended and I am sure that he will sort it for me.

#1090 13 days ago

Note: I got a batch of TIP122 that are bad...
The transistors worked fine when it fired off the brights/flasher lamps...
but when I would add a known good new coil, the transistor would fail!!!
Yes, the transistors came from the "other country..."
I had to replace the TIP122 from another lot and all is fine.
It really sucks having to rely on components from a country that short changes you...
I have noticed that in the past twenty years IC's are not as good has the ones made
back in the seventy's/eighty's... plus the practice of white washing the chips with new
numbers sucks... you never know what IC your are really getting and whether or not
it is, what is marked.

#1091 13 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: I got a batch of TIP122 that are bad...
The transistors worked fine when it fired off the brights/flasher lamps...
but when I would add a known good new coil, the transistor would fail!!!
Yes, the transistors came from the "other country..."
I had to replace the TIP122 from another lot and all is fine.
It really sucks having to rely on components from a country that short changes you...
I have noticed that in the past twenty years IC's are not as good has the ones made
back in the seventy's/eighty's... plus the practice of white washing the chips with new
numbers sucks... you never know what IC your are really getting and whether or not
it is, what is marked.

I only bought two from this supplier and although despatched from the UK to me in the UK they did not have clear markings and they were clearly from the other country. I tested them and they were okay but I don't know if they will last.

I am pretty sure that the engineer I am using will have bona fide parts.

#1092 12 days ago

I thought TIP102’s were the better replacement now? I bought a few but didn’t need them, will be good spares though.

Played quite a bit today and all good still. Beat my high score.

39D3BFAD-A12F-4802-BCA3-DF6A9BC15C53 (resized).jpeg
#1093 9 days ago

HELP!!!
Are these switches wired correctly? (I am pretty sure they are and I took pics to guide me). The new switch's lugs were the opposite way round to the existing so that is why I am asking.
With my MPU board away being fixed I thought that I would give the slinger a refurb.
So I have put in new switches and checked the diode on the end of stroke switch which was okay but since I had to remove it to check it I replaced it.
I didn't replace or check the capacitor because I don't know how to.

Slinger Switch1.jpgSlinger Switch2.jpgSlinger Switch3.jpg
#1094 9 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

HELP!!!
Are these switches wired correctly? (I am pretty sure they are and I took pics to guide me). The new switch's lugs were the opposite way round to the existing so that is why I am asking.
With my MPU board away being fixed I thought that I would give the slinger a refurb.
So I have put in new switches and checked the diode on the end of stroke switch which was okay but since I had to remove it to check it I replaced it.
I didn't replace or check the capacitor because I don't know how to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A6428FEC-98FC-4EA5-B2A8-D54C9F35055B (resized).jpegB0A25984-8C5F-404C-A51E-3A97A5FB3A7E (resized).jpeg
#1095 9 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for taking the time to post these. They look like mine so I am reassured.

The only thing which seems odd is that on mine there is no 'resistor' between the cap and the lug but since it worked fine for 2 years I'm guessing it didn't need it.

#1096 8 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Thanks for taking the time to post these. They look like mine so I am reassured.
The only thing which seems odd is that on mine there is no 'resistor' between the cap and the lug but since it worked fine for 2 years I'm guessing it didn't need it.

Ask Jim, they put them there for a reason so best to check with him incase it might cause an issue with the board. Best to be safe.

#1097 7 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Thanks for taking the time to post these. They look like mine so I am reassured.
The only thing which seems odd is that on mine there is no 'resistor' between the cap and the lug but since it worked fine for 2 years I'm guessing it didn't need it.

The resistor/capacitor part of the switch, is designed to hold the pulse of the switch contacts
long enough so as the ic's can process the pulse to make a good transistor ground bleed.

#1098 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The resistor/capacitor part of the switch, is designed to hold the pulse of the switch contacts
long enough so as the ic's can process the pulse to make a good transistor ground bleed.

So could a faulty cap blow a transistor on the MPU? Or is it more likely that the fuse would blow?

Oh and should I set my switch up like that?

#1099 7 days ago

lostcause vec-tor cottonm4

I have been interacting with Jim at myPinball who has fixed my board.

He advised me, as Lostcause did also, to check for shorted switches before installing the board upon its return. From previous posts you may have seen that I have put new switches in the slinger that initially caused the board problems.

Today I checked the two poppers and found one had a shorted switch and another had lost part of the switch itself. It must have snapped and was at the bottom of the cabinet. (See pictures).

I didn't have a replacement so I had to deconstruct/reconstruct the EOS switch using parts from a couple of leaf switches that I had in reserve. I think all is okay now.

Jim has fitted a nvram and new game roms as apparently I had 3.0 not 3.4 so I'm eager to see how that changes things.

EOS (resized).jpg

#1100 5 days ago

I have got my MPU board back from Jim at myPinball and it is working perfectly.
He has done a fantastic job. He comes highly recommended from me just as he was from lostcause.
Some pics of the repair below.
Pic 1 with the blue wire is before repair and 2 and 3 are after

IMG_8510 (resized).jpegIMG_8512 (resized).jpegIMG_8513 (resized).jpeg

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