Quoted from Lostcause:Never played a data east and find the flippers not as snappy as WPC, stern.
One you get it fixed, you will change your opinion 
DE flippers are notorious for their snappiness, plastics hardest hit.
(Topic ID: 94507)
Wichita, KS
Quoted from Lostcause:I’ve have rebuilt both flippers and fitted new cabinet switches and getting a weak flipper issue on both flippers, sometimes when both flipped at the same time they don’t go up all the way.
More so with ball on end of flipper and not very often, checked all connections. Was thinking to replace both coils first then maybe try a new flipper board.
I believe there is also a relay in the circuit to check.
Never played a data east and find the flippers not as snappy as WPC, stern.
Try this. It has helped my flipper action. My flippers would be hitting hard as hammers and then all of a sudden, they would turn to mush, and then just as suddenly they would eye hitting hard again.
Lift your play field and close up the gaps on the flipper switch points. I had to remove the 2 screws that attach the flipper switch to the cabinet and close up the gap and then reinstall. You can slip about 3 sheets or paper in my flipper switch gaps. They are close. And 99.99999% of the time my flippers are hitting hard.
If the problems return then I am going to install micro-switches for my flippers. DE had problems with this and at some point in time moved to micro-switches for the flippers.
Quoted from cottonm4:Try this. It has helped my flipper action. My flippers would be hitting hard as hammers and then all of a sudden, they would turn to mush, and then just as suddenly they would eye hitting hard again.
Lift your play field and close up the gaps on the flipper switch points. I had to remove the 2 screws that attach the flipper switch to the cabinet and close up the gap and then reinstall. You can slip about 3 sheets or paper in my flipper switch gaps. They are close. And 99.99999% of the time my flippers are hitting hard.
If the problems return then I am going to install micro-switches for my flippers. DE had problems with this and at some point in time moved to micro-switches for the flippers.
Thanks, I fitted new switches but will close them up as close as I can and try to line them up as slightly offset.
There is also a mod to do to the flipper board on data east bulletin no.23 for weak flippers and double flips, I would rather buy the new improved board you can get.
They do hit hard as a few times the ball has flown off the ramp and onto the wire form then back down to the plunger.
I can never enjoy a game until it’s 100% but will get to the bottom of this sooner rather than later hopefully.
Also found out my bb speakers surrounds has perished but they sound ok surprisingly, noticed they also say 10 ohms on them. Anyone changed their speakers?
Quoted from Lostcause:Thanks, I fitted new switches but will close them up as close as I can and try to line them up as slightly offset.
There is also a mod to do to the flipper board on data east bulletin no.23 for weak flippers and double flips, I would rather buy the new improved board you can get.
They do hit hard as a few times the ball has flown off the ramp and onto the wire form then back down to the plunger.
I can never enjoy a game until it’s 100% but will get to the bottom of this sooner rather than later hopefully.
Also found out my bb speakers surrounds has perished but they sound ok surprisingly, noticed they also say 10 ohms on them. Anyone changed their speakers?
1) I tried to modify my DE flipper board with service bulletin #23.
2) The mod did not work. Of course, the two guys with their name and phone numbers on #23 are long gone.
3) The mod hosed my board.
4) So, I bought a Rottendog FLP-023 flipper board that works on a lot of DE pins.
5) While the FLP-023 worked, it was ever so slightly weaker than the the factory board and I found myself dealing with a lot of missed ramp jumps and dealing with a lot of crashes. For any other play field action the FLP-023 was OK. But it was off just a bit as far as the ramp shot.
6) In desperation, I was able to reverse the mods I made by following bulletin #23. But it looks like a Frankenstein circuit board now.
7) There is a 2nd generation flipper board I located on Ebay. It was supposed to help with the weak flipper issue. It did help; A little bit.
8 ) Closing those flipper gaps is what finally worked for me.
9) My friend who has the Robocop does not seem to have any problems with his flippers. I thought my Robocop was fast. His is downright snappy.
10) Save spending your money on the Rottendog FLP-023 if you can.
Airballs: They were impressive when I first got my Robocop. After about 3 days they showed their selves to be nothing but a pain in the ass as they bounced all over the play field breaking plastics.
Your air balls come from the 3 yellow stand up targets in the middle of the play field. You need to make your self one of the air ball deflectors that I talked about. Apparently, others are using it and their air balls have disappeared, too. You put that deflector on and you will have no more air balls. And since you just installed a new set of plastics, I would suggest to install the deflector before you start breaking those, too.
Quoted from cottonm4:1) I tried to modify my CE flipper board with service bulletin #23.
2) The mod did not work. Of course, the two guys with their name and phone numbers on #23 are long gone.
3) The mod hosed my board.
4) So, I bought a Rottendog FLP-023 flipper board that works on a lot of DE pins.
5) While the FLP-023 worked, it was ever so slightly weaker than the the factory board and I found myself dealing with a lot of missed ramp jumps and dealing with a lot of crashes. For any other play field action the FLP-023 was OK. But it was off just a bit as far as the ramp shot.
6) In desperation, I was able to reverse the mods I made by following bulletin #23. But it looks like a Frankenstein circuit board now.
7) There is a 2nd generation flipper board I located on Ebay. It was supposed to help with the weak flipper issue. It did help; A little bit.
8 ) Closing those flipper gaps is what finally worked for me.
9) My friend who has the Robocop does not seem to have any problems with his flippers. I thought my Robocop was fast. His is downright snappy.
10) Save spending your money on the Rottendog FLP-023 if you can.
Airballs: They were impressive when I first got my Robocop. After about 3 days they showed their selves to be nothing but a pain in the ass as they bounced all over the play field breaking plastics.
Your air balls come from the 3 yellow stand up targets in the middle of the play field. You need to make your self one of the air ball deflectors that I talked about. Apparently, others are using it and their air balls have disappeared, too. You put that deflector on and you will have no more air balls. And since you just installed a new set of plastics, I would suggest to install the deflector before you start breaking those, too.
Great info, thanks. There is another board made by Pindorabox that I could try if all else fails.
I had plastic protectors made with a bit of an over hang so new plastics are safe, I have not had any air balls from the yellow targets and it does hit hard, I also fitted those cushioned target covers which would help with that anyway. Worked for some other pins.
Will put some footage up to see what you think of the flippers.
Thanks again.
Adjusted flipper switch as close as possible but still has the issue, you can see a 18 secs and 20 secs when it goes weaker.
Quoted from Lostcause:Adjusted flipper switch as close as possible but still has the issue, you can see a 18 secs and 20 secs when it goes weaker.
1) Check cold solder joints.
2) Check wires to the idc connectors.
3) Check fuse holders.
4) Check solder connections.
Quoted from vec-tor:1) Check cold solder joints.
2) Check wires to the idc connectors.
3) Check fuse holders.
4) Check solder connections.
Thanks, done all that already. Twice. Zooming in with phone as well. Did reflow one connection.
The weakness is the same in both flippers.
Quoted from Lostcause:Thanks, done all that already. Twice. Zooming in with phone as well. Did reflow one connection.
The weakness is the same in both flippers.
I saw yours go weak at .18 for one hit and then back to hard hitting normal.
Mine was right hand flipper only. It would go weak for one hit and then come back strong. Only very rarely did I have weakness for more than one flip.
Just checking but you do know your flipper fuses are located on the flipper board on the left side of your cab?
On a side note: Your Robocop looks nice and clean in your video.
===============================
I looked at the Pindorabox board. It looks just like the Rottendog FLP-023 board. Licensed maybe? Anyway they are out of stock.
Honestly, I cannot rememeber if the Rotteondog board solved my weak flipper problem. I was just so dissatisfied with the lower power keeping me from making the ramp shots. I'll say ti again, the Rottendog board seems to be a good board in all play action.
Quoted from cottonm4:I saw yours go weak at .18 for one hit and then back to hard hitting normal.
Mine was right hand flipper only. It would go weak for one hit and then come back strong. Only very rarely did I have weakness for more than one flip.
Just checking but you do know your flipper fuses are located on the flipper board on the left side of your cab?
On a side note: Your Robocop looks nice and clean in your video.
===============================
I looked at the Pindorabox board. It looks just like the Rottendog FLP-023 board. Licensed maybe? Anyway they are out of stock.
Honestly, I cannot rememeber if the Rotteondog board solved my weak flipper problem. I was just so dissatisfied with the lower power keeping me from making the ramp shots. I'll say ti again, the Rottendog board seems to be a good board in all play action.
Yes took the flipper board out, removed fuses and reflowed a pin on there as well. Board is quite clean.
I’m going to get a pair of new coils as the wire looks messed up on one and go from there and work my way back.
I did read a bridge rectifier might cause the problem so will look into that as well.
Thanks, just the cab needs cleaning up but it is solid. That can wait until the summer.
It was in storage at a private house for the last 20 years plus which has helped 
There is another totally different flipper board but has surface mount components.
https://www.pinled.de/en/p/solid-state-flipper-board
My amazing wife got me a Cricut Explore air 2 for Christmas so I finally got around to playing with it tonight. Freshened up my pop bumpers, made a decal for my truck (I stream the pin) and made a splatterpunks decal for the back glass.
I think I might replace the white with silver for the pop bumpers
Screenshot_20201227-235945_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201228-000005_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201228-000023_Gallery (resized).jpg
Washington
Quoted from Action53:My amazing wife got me a Cricut Explore air 2 for Christmas so I finally got around to playing with it tonight. Freshened up my pop bumpers, made a decal for my truck (I stream the pin) and made a splatterpunks decal for the back glass.
I think I might replace the white with silver for the pop bumpers
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
These look really cool.
I had a quick look at the the printer/cutter online and would like to know if this machine makes it possible to create decals for the playfield that are washable? Some of the inserts on my playfield were in a poor condition when I got it, burnt and melted. I replaced them but my home made decals, although pretty good, are not colour fast and when I clean the playfield with Novus I have to be careful not to go anywhere near the ink as it washes off.
Quoted from Thehipster:These look really cool.
I had a quick look at the the printer/cutter online and would like to know if this machine makes it possible to create decals for the playfield that are washable? Some of the inserts on my playfield were in a poor condition when I got it, burnt and melted. I replaced them but my home made decals, although pretty good, are not colour fast and when I clean the playfield with Novus I have to be careful not to go anywhere near the ink as it washes off.
I haven't printed anything yet, the only "printing" mine does is with a marker, but it cuts it from whatever vinyl you put in it. I imagine you can get some pretty tough vinyl for it
Does anyone have a pic of the MPU board schematics. I know I need to buy one.
My slingshot coil has stuck on again after changing resistor q10 and it working for a while I would like to check the other components in that row.
Quoted from Thehipster:Does anyone have a pic of the MPU board schematics. I know I need to buy one.
My slingshot coil has stuck on again after changing resistor q10 and it working for a while I would like to check the other components in that row.
All the way down to the bottom.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1976/Data_East_1989_Robocop_English_Manual.pdf
Quoted from Thehipster:Does anyone have a pic of the MPU board schematics. I know I need to buy one.
My slingshot coil has stuck on again after changing resistor q10 and it working for a while I would like to check the other components in that row.
Think you should also change the diode on the coil and maybe the coil, the protective layer can burn off the coil wire and cause issues.
My left slingshot quit the other day, ordered some TIP102’s as that row of Q8 to Q13 looked to have got hot going by the board.
Also got a new pinled flipper board on the way and some ball return guides and ramp protectors arriving shortly.
Quoted from Lostcause:Think you should also change the diode on the coil and maybe the coil, the protective layer can burn off the coil wire and cause issues.
My left slingshot quit the other day, ordered some TIP102’s as that row of Q8 to Q13 looked to have got hot going by the board.
Also got a new pinled flipper board on the way and some ball return guides and ramp protectors arriving shortly.
I have just replaced the coil and had an engineer fix the board which I had damaged trying to sort out the coil first time round (in a previous post on about page 19 or something of this thread).
It was the TIP 102 that he changed and he fixed some pretty bad hacks. The slingshot worked fine for about 2 weeks then locked on again. That got me thinking it might be something on the way to the TIP102.
Quoted from cottonm4:All the way down to the bottom.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1976/Data_East_1989_Robocop_English_Manual.pdf
That is brilliant. Thanks.
I've been meaning to ask. My shooter wire-form has started restricting my skill shots and a wire at the top has come loose from the form. Does this affect to way the ball goes through the wire-form and if it does will I need to weld it back onto the main cage work?
Quoted from Thehipster:I have just replaced the coil and had an engineer fix the board which I had damaged trying to sort out the coil first time round (in a previous post on about page 19 or something of this thread).
It was the TIP 102 that he changed and he fixed some pretty bad hacks. The slingshot worked fine for about 2 weeks then locked on again. That got me thinking it might be something on the way to the TIP102.
Do you have the correct size fuse for the special coils, slingshots and pops? Should be 2.5amps sb I think. Mine are screwed in the right hand topside of backbox.
Will be putting a set of new fuses in as I know they look different without checking properly.
That’s annoying, something not right.
Quoted from Lostcause:Do you have the correct size fuse for the special coils, slingshots and pops? Should be 2.5amps sb I think. Mine are screwed in the right hand topside of backbox.
Will be putting a set of new fuses in as I know they look different without checking properly.
That’s annoying, something not right.
Yes the fuses are all correct. My engineer pal should be able to sort it.
Quoted from Lostcause:Return lane guides arrived today[quoted image]
They look great!
I have emailed Cliffy to see if he can give me a non-prohibitive cost for shipping to the UK.
I could do with the pair of return lane guides as mine are so warn that occasionally they hold the ball in front of the flipper bat and I have to give the pin a nudge to get it moving again.
It's not the end of the world but it can get annoying at times.
Added over 3 years ago:UPDATE! Cliffy got right back to me and he is making them for me. Very reasonable on the shipping too.
Quoted from Thehipster:They look great!
I have emailed Cliffy to see if he can give me a non-prohibitive cost for shipping to the UK.
I could do with the pair of return lane guides as mine are so warn that occasionally they hold the ball in front of the flipper bat and I have to give the pin a nudge to get it moving again.
It's not the end of the world but it can get annoying at times.
You are creative. Get some .030 polycarbonate plastic. Trace your cut lines around your new guides and add just a little bit extra to close the gap between the flipper and the guide. Place your newly cut guides on top or below the factory guides. End of problem.
Quoted from cottonm4:You are creative. Get some .030 polycarbonate plastic. Trace your cut lines around your new guides and add just a little bit extra to close the gap between the flipper and the guide. Place your newly cut guides on top or below the factory guides. End of problem.
I must admit that I thought about a remedy but for the low cost (I know it is relative) I made a time/effort decision on this and Cliffy got the gig.
Quoted from Thehipster:They look great!
I have emailed Cliffy to see if he can give me a non-prohibitive cost for shipping to the UK.
I could do with the pair of return lane guides as mine are so warn that occasionally they hold the ball in front of the flipper bat and I have to give the pin a nudge to get it moving again.
It's not the end of the world but it can get annoying at times.Added yesterday: UPDATE! Cliffy got right back to me and he is making them for me. Very reasonable on the shipping too.
Great!
My metal posts were seized, one snapped and another I had to hacksaw off. The nut on top was next useless for grip.
Going to order new posts and t nuts, had to take both flipper plates/mechs off to get to t nuts as spinning 
Also found one of the flipper plates was bodged together and fell apart!
B5934730-E2F4-4558-9596-559B4EA8CF2F (resized).jpegC705E012-0B9B-4972-8DC8-9A0546A0FE18 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Lostcause:Great!
My metal posts were seized, one snapped and another I had to hacksaw off. The nut on top was next useless for grip.
Going to order new posts and t nuts, had to take both flipper plates/mechs off to get to t nuts as spinning
Also found one of the flipper plates was bodged together and fell apart!
[quoted image][quoted image]
One of my flipper mounting plates was broken like that. I think I got my replacement at Pinball Life.
Quoted from cottonm4:One of my flipper mounting plates was broken like that. I think I got my replacement at Pinball Life.
Quoted from Lostcause:Great!
My metal posts were seized, one snapped and another I had to hacksaw off. The nut on top was next useless for grip.
Going to order new posts and t nuts, had to take both flipper plates/mechs off to get to t nuts as spinning
Also found one of the flipper plates was bodged together and fell apart!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I hate it when people bodge things.
I have been lucky with no seized nuts or bolts. I have on hand about 30 of each 6/32 and 8/32 nuts with nylon thread and the same of bolts. I prefer them to tee-nuts if the countersunk hole is not already drilled under the playfield. I've just got to remember to order posts with the longest threaded length.
My Robocop has sleeve posts to protect the ramp front and I have snapped the left side one 6 times in the last year so I usually have a half dozen at hand.
Quoted from cottonm4:One of my flipper mounting plates was broken like that. I think I got my replacement at Pinball Life.
I'm frugal, bust out the welder =)
Just had to repair my DE Star Wars ramp which had all the welds broken, came out great.
Quoted from gdonovan:I'm frugal, bust out the welder =)
Just had to repair my DE Star Wars ramp which had all the welds broken, came out great.
I would probably weld myself to the pin
Quoted from gdonovan:I'm frugal, bust out the welder =)
Just had to repair my DE Star Wars ramp which had all the welds broken, came out great.
I don't have a welder. Mine was actually put backing place with a dry wall screw that worked quite well, until it didn't. I was thinking of getting out the JB Weld and a properly sized piece of wood to hold it all together and reaping it that way, but decided to go with new replacement.
Quoted from gdonovan:I'm frugal, bust out the welder =)
Just had to repair my DE Star Wars ramp which had all the welds broken, came out great.
What kind of welder are you using? MIG welder?
Quoted from cottonm4:What kind of welder are you using? MIG welder?
Lincoln Mig welder with gas.
No flipper base plates in the uk so will have to order from Germany, postage costs the same as the plate so I might put it back as it was until I need to order some more stuff .
Ordered the posts etc, new flipper coils arrived today as wrong ones were fitted.
Anyone got a pic of the flipper coil as I want to check where the diode stripe should be, new coils are opposite to how they are on my machine.
My pinled flipper board should be here anytime now, can’t wait to get it all back together.
Still need to pull out mpu and check replace slingshot transistor, have a new coil for that as well so might as well change it.
Ahh although my sound is ok somehow I noticed the bb speakers have perished so will need to order some new ones, weird size for here in the uk.
Quoted from gdonovan:Lincoln Mig welder with gas.
I thought you were going to tell me you had something from Harbor Freight . Lincoln is some high end product.
Quoted from cottonm4:I thought you were going to tell me you had something from Harbor Freight . Lincoln is some high end product.
Can’t beat some high end product 
My brother-in-law has a garage local to me, think I will ask if he can weld it
Quoted from cottonm4:I thought you were going to tell me you had something from Harbor Freight . Lincoln is some high end product.
Oh I started out with some pretty cheap China stuff years ago and had an China "Astro" mig for some time. The Lincoln has been a Cadillac of old since purchase. Trouble free and smooth.. Still have the Astro as a backup in the rafters, but don't think I'll be needing it.
Quoted from Lostcause:No flipper base plates in the uk so will have to order from Germany, postage costs the same as the plate so I might put it back as it was until I need to order some more stuff .
Ordered the posts etc, new flipper coils arrived today as wrong ones were fitted.
Anyone got a pic of the flipper coil as I want to check where the diode stripe should be, new coils are opposite to how they are on my machine.
My pinled flipper board should be here anytime now, can’t wait to get it all back together.
Still need to pull out mpu and check replace slingshot transistor, have a new coil for that as well so might as well change it.
Ahh although my sound is ok somehow I noticed the bb speakers have perished so will need to order some new ones, weird size for here in the uk.
I'm in the UK too so welcome to my world. Everything Robocop is so hard to find. Have you looked at pinball.nl? They are pretty good and the they charge a lot less than the German companies for shipping. I think it is about 9.95 euros.
Quoted from Lostcause:No flipper base plates in the uk so will have to order from Germany, postage costs the same as the plate so I might put it back as it was until I need to order some more stuff .
Ordered the posts etc, new flipper coils arrived today as wrong ones were fitted.
Anyone got a pic of the flipper coil as I want to check where the diode stripe should be, new coils are opposite to how they are on my machine.
My pinled flipper board should be here anytime now, can’t wait to get it all back together.
Still need to pull out mpu and check replace slingshot transistor, have a new coil for that as well so might as well change it.
Ahh although my sound is ok somehow I noticed the bb speakers have perished so will need to order some new ones, weird size for here in the uk.
Is this the one you need? Its at pinball heaven.
515-6617-01 (resized).jpgQuoted from Thehipster:Is this the one you need? Its at pinball heaven.
[quoted image]
Thanks but no that’s not the one, pinparts has that one too. Data East parts need some research to get part no.s, getting used to it though.
Yep Pinball.nl have the one I need in stock and 4 euro cheaper than Germany, thanks for reminding me will see what else they have that I might or might not need lol
Quoted from Lostcause:Thanks but no that’s not the one, pinparts has that one too. Data East parts need some research to get part no.s, getting used to it though.
Yep Pinball.nl have the one I need in stock and 4 euro cheaper than Germany, thanks for reminding me will see what else they have that I might or might not need lol
Yeah I just realised it is a simpler base plate for Data East. I usually go to Marco specialities site for the part numbers. I would use Marcos as a go to supplier but the shipping is about £50 from the US.
Quoted from Thehipster:Is this the one you need? Its at pinball heaven.
[quoted image]
Quoted from Lostcause:Thanks but no that’s not the one, pinparts has that one too. Data East parts need some research to get part no.s, getting used to it though.
Yep Pinball.nl have the one I need in stock and 4 euro cheaper than Germany, thanks for reminding me will see what else they have that I might or might not need lol
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=flipper+base+plate
There is one left hand base plate and two right hand base plates. You would have to contact Marco to see which one is the correct right hand unit.
Quoted from Thehipster:Yeah I just realised it is a simpler base plate for Data East. I usually go to Marco specialities site for the part numbers. I would use Marcos as a go to supplier but the shipping is about £50 from the US.
Get some wood and cut it to the correct thickness and use some powerful adhesive to bond it to the bottom of your broken plate. Glue the wood to the bottom and glue then broken end to the wood. Then drill an extra hole in the plate. Put it all back together and use a screw to also help hold the plate to the play field.
If I was looking at your kind of ship charge, that is what I would have done to mine. It will be held in solid and you do it neatly, your will never see it when you life the play field.
Pinball.nl want nearly €20 postage to me so will leave for now.
Yeah the plate had some extra pieces of metal and screwed elsewhere to the playfield, was solid enough. I will look into it.
Bit of bond which I have and a screw here and there and should be good. When I need to place an order worth doing I will get one.
The left side has been replaced by someone already with the unpainted version and then they put self tappers through the coil stop holes, have ordered the machine screws for these.
Quoted from Lostcause:Pinball.nl want nearly €20 postage to me so will leave for now.
Yeah the plate had some extra pieces of metal and screwed elsewhere to the playfield, was solid enough. I will look into it.
Bit of bond which I have and a screw here and there and should be good. When I need to place an order worth doing I will get one.
The left side has been replaced by someone already with the unpainted version and then they put self tappers through the coil stop holes, have ordered the machine screws for these.
I forgot to say that I was on pinball nl the other day and it wouldn't let me do the normal 9.95 euro delivery and only came up with a 24.95 euro option. I cancelled the basket and got the stuff from pinball center. 3 day delivery door to door excluding weekends which I think is pretty good during the new year holidays.
Quoted from Thehipster:I forgot to say that I was on pinball nl the other day and it wouldn't let me do the normal 9.95 euro delivery and only came up with a 24.95 euro option. I cancelled the basket and got the stuff from pinball center. 3 day delivery door to door excluding weekends which I think is pretty good during the new year holidays.
Pinball centre now want €35 or a cheaper untracked way with up to 30 days delivery!!!!
Quoted from Lostcause:Pinball centre now want €35 or a cheaper untracked way with up to 30 days delivery!!!!
That's too much!!!! It essentially puts the price of the parts up 33%.
We'll just have to ask Phil at Pinball Heaven and the guys at Pinball Mania to be a bit more adventurous with their range of parts
Data East is very poorly represented generally in Europe and the UK although some of the Stern products are a decent substitute.
Quoted from cottonm4:Get some wood and cut it to the correct thickness and use some powerful adhesive to bond it to the bottom of your broken plate. Glue the wood to the bottom and glue then broken end to the wood. Then drill an extra hole in the plate. Put it all back together and use a screw to also help hold the plate to the play field.
If I was looking at your kind of ship charge, that is what I would have done to mine. It will be held in solid and you do it neatly, your will never see it when you life the play field.
I'd weld it up for free if he wants to ship it.
Quoted from Lostcause:Pinball centre now want €35 or a cheaper untracked way with up to 30 days delivery!!!!
Is a lot of this action due to Brexit?
Quoted from gdonovan:I'd weld it up for free if he wants to ship it.
Thank you for the offer, I will ask my bro in law if he can weld it as he has a garage otherwise I will fix it back with a bit of tlc.
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