Robocop
Data East, 1989Quoted from vec-tor:You have a switch that has it's contact points to close together.
check the standup switches by the pop bumpers....and others, etc,etc,etc.
Quoted from Lostcause:As above, bang the playfield and if it does it start putting paper between switch contacts one at a time to find the culprit. Not familiar with this yet does it have switch test because you could check it that way, much easier.
Thanks. I'll start looking around.
Quoted from gdonovan:Tough question as there is lots of nostalgia overtones.
With the Titan bands it is a snappy shooter. Its a fairly simple but fun game, great one to practice ball passing flipper to flipper which makes my wife mad for some reason when I do it!
Light the ramp, pound the ramp, get multi-ball, pound the ramp if you can has been my go to play style. Good game when you have a few minutes to kill, lots of "one more game" feeling to it.
In my small building line up currently I'm playing Torpedo Alley, Laser War, Last Action Hero the most with Time Machine and Robocop bring up the rear. Star Trek, Lethal Weapon 3, Jurassic Park, Phantom of the Opera get played enough to give them exercise and Hook getting played the least. Not sure why, just not clicking. Hook and Trek might be going out sooner or later.
I like Trek but too shallow for my tastes. Would like to rotate out for a DE Star Wars. Wish they did better with it, even with the Chad code its just ok. I like Robocop better than Trek, not 100% sure why. Robocop just feels more fun.
Out in the workshop is Playboy which is pretty fun to my surprise and Secret Service which I'm thinking of boxing up for awhile. Space Shuttle has been getting pounded, really taking a shine to it.
It has been awhile since I have talked about this but since you now own a Checkpoint to go with your Robocop and there are some new Robocop owners I think I will bring up the ball catch spring again.
There is a spring that sits just in front of the lower pop bumper on the left side. If this spring breaks or is missing you will have problems with the ball getting caught in a cradle that exists between the pop cap and the rubber rebound ring. Can you play Robocop without this spring? Yes you can but it will always be a problem with balls getting stuck there.
This same set up exists on Checkpoint and The Simpsons. It was a struggle to find a solution and pinsider Vec-tor first made the observation that this spring was also used on Checkpoint. If Vec-tor had not offered up this info, I would probably still be struggling to find a solution.
Look carefully and you can see a very small wire traversing the gap between the rubber and the pop skirt.
Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 11.30.18 AM (resized).png
This is the Checkpoint drawing. Item #39, Ball catch spring wire, part number 535-5611-00
Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 11.04.34 AM (resized).png
This is The Simpsons drawing. Item #28, Ball Catch Spring wire, part number 535-5611-00
Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 11.11.53 AM (resized).png
And Robocop. Item #6, Ball Deflector spring, part number. 535-5010-00. Notice the part number has changed. The name is different, too.
Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 11.15.50 AM (resized).png
There is a reason for the different part numbers. But first, here is a pic of the spring you can buy. Marco Specialities sells it. If you search Marco for any of these 3 pins, this spring will show up in the search of relevant parts.
Screen Shot 2020-12-13 at 11.17.52 AM (resized).png
The difference between the spring for Robocop and the spring for the other 2 pins is related to a 90 degree bend in the spring. If you look carefully at the pic from Marco you can see that the spring has this 90 degree bend which gives the spring an "elbow".
Robcop does not have the 90 degree bend. The way DE set up the Robo spring is that it wraps around both posts that hold the spring in place. With CP and TS the spring is screwed to the play field just behind the three stand up targets.
For Marco's purposes the one spring can be used on all 3 pins. It took me several tries to get Marco to add the 535-5011-00 spring into the Robcop parts lineup.
For Robocop, this spring is its good as it is going to get. But it has problem---that can be easily corrected.
Even with this spring I was having balls get trapped behind the spring. The spring "arm" should be a little bit longer. But I was able to fix it. I had to "unwind" or tweak the spring to swing the spring arm forward. Then I had to make a slight bend to swing the spring arm back down towards the pop skirt. And then I had to turn the tip downward into the skirt. Once I made these 3 small mods the spring does what is supposed to do.
Good tip, I have a spring like that on my Avatar to stop sdtm’s.
Mine had a post there that was wobbly and loose which I took out, while testing now and again the bill would get stuck as expected.
I copied an idea I noticed on my TWD that was done at factory, it is nearly impossible to get a ball stuck there. Game stripped so not played but rolling a ball there very slowly and it can’t get stuck. The hole was a mess so fixed 2 problems in one
697D000F-D626-4C8E-87A6-18004D9974AC (resized).jpegB92F42FD-35F5-402B-B09E-B31308D49B08 (resized).jpegQuoted from Lostcause:Good tip, I have a spring like that on my Avatar to stop sdtm’s.
Mine had a post there that was wobbly and loose which I took out, while testing now and again the bill would get stuck as expected.
I copied an idea I noticed on my TWD that was done at factory, it is nearly impossible to get a ball stuck there. Game stripped so not played but rolling a ball there very slowly and it can’t get stuck. The hole was a mess so fixed 2 problems in one
[quoted image][quoted image]
That is a fix. The only problem I can see is that the screw completely blocks the ball from contacting the skirt at that location. The spring will flex to allow a better reach for the ball. But other than that, the screw is a good idea.
ec7d478ba9b1157b89bde3ac67c4a7537408a56c.jpeg (resized).jpgQuoted from cottonm4:That is a fix. The only problem I can see is that the screw completely blocks the ball from contacting the skirt at that location. The spring will flex to allow a better reach for the ball. But other than that, the screw is a good idea.
[quoted image]
Would have done it your way but there was a hole there and I had the perfect roundhead screw by chance, glad I noticed it on TWD.
Quoted from cottonm4:A couple of days ago my Robocop started doing something strange. I don't know what make of it. You know how the lights start blinking up in the back to signal the skill shot. I was playing and all at once when the ball would hit the play field after launch. As soon as the ball drops and hits the play field it cancels the blinking lights. And now I cannot make my skill shots since the ball hits the play before it goes down the rollover. I made some movies.
The way it used to work was the ball would go over the rollover wire and then the lights would quit blinking as I made the skill shot.
I am scratching my head as to just why a ball impact on the play field would make these lights quit blinking. It started in the middle of a game. And this also cancels any chance to make a skill shot.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have had this happen twice and both times it was the green 4 target switch (top one looking up the playfield).
The switch test showed me that it was green 4 when I used the right flipper.
The indicator board flashed right flipper and then immediately green target 4.
The switch contacts were touching on both occasions and I just eased them apart with a switch tool.
Obviously it may be a different switch on yours but give it a try and see if it helps.
Quoted from Lostcause:Would have done it your way but there was a hole there and I had the perfect roundhead screw by chance, glad I noticed it on TWD.
Get the spring next time you order from Marco. Remove the screw. You will rarely see that hole.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have had this happen twice and both times it was the green 4 target switch (top one looking up the playfield).
The switch test showed me that it was green 4 when I used the right flipper.
The indicator board flashed right flipper and then immediately green target 4.
The switch contacts were touching on both occasions and I just eased them apart with a switch tool.
Obviously it may be a different switch on yours but give it a try and see if it helps.
Thanks for this tip. I'll try to get back on Robcop later tonight or tomorrow.
Quoted from cottonm4:It has been awhile since I have talked about this but since you now own a Checkpoint to go with your Robocop and there are some new Robocop owners I think I will bring up the ball catch spring again.
There is a spring that sits just in front of the lower pop bumper on the left side. If this spring breaks or is missing you will have problems with the ball getting caught in a cradle that exists between the pop cap and the rubber rebound ring. Can you play Robocop without this spring? Yes you can but it will always be a problem with balls getting stuck there.
This same set up exists on Checkpoint and The Simpsons. It was a struggle to find a solution and pinsider Vec-tor first made the observation that this spring was also used on Checkpoint. If Vec-tor had not offered up this info, I would probably still be struggling to find a solution.
Look carefully and you can see a very small wire traversing the gap between the rubber and the pop skirt.
[quoted image]
This is the Checkpoint drawing. Item #39, Ball catch spring wire, part number 535-5611-00
[quoted image]
This is The Simpsons drawing. Item #28, Ball Catch Spring wire, part number 535-5611-00
[quoted image]
And Robocop. Item #6, Ball Deflector spring, part number. 535-5010-00. Notice the part number has changed. The name is different, too.
[quoted image]
There is a reason for the different part numbers. But first, here is a pic of the spring you can buy. Marco Specialities sells it. If you search Marco for any of these 3 pins, this spring will show up in the search of relevant parts.
[quoted image]
The difference between the spring for Robocop and the spring for the other 2 pins is related to a 90 degree bend in the spring. If you look carefully at the pic from Marco you can see that the spring has this 90 degree bend which gives the spring an "elbow".
Robcop does not have the 90 degree bend. The way DE set up the Robo spring is that it wraps around both posts that hold the spring in place. With CP and TS the spring is screwed to the play field just behind the three stand up targets.
For Marco's purposes the one spring can be used on all 3 pins. It took me several tries to get Marco to add the 535-5011-00 spring into the Robcop parts lineup.
For Robocop, this spring is its good as it is going to get. But it has problem---that can be easily corrected.
Even with this spring I was having balls get trapped behind the spring. The spring "arm" should be a little bit longer. But I was able to fix it. I had to "unwind" or tweak the spring to swing the spring arm forward. Then I had to make a slight bend to swing the spring arm back down towards the pop skirt. And then I had to turn the tip downward into the skirt. Once I made these 3 small mods the spring does what is supposed to do.
[quoted image]
Missing spring on Checkpoint, I'll have to order one.
Thanks!
Quoted from gdonovan:Missing spring on Checkpoint, I'll have to order one.
Thanks!
The way to responded on the other thread made me think you might not have a spring on CP.
They are cheap. The originals break. The half of one left on why Robocop was heavier gauge wire than the replacement. As noted, they are cheap. Pick up a couple of spares.
Quoted from Thehipster:I have had this happen twice and both times it was the green 4 target switch (top one looking up the playfield).
The switch test showed me that it was green 4 when I used the right flipper.
The indicator board flashed right flipper and then immediately green target 4.
The switch contacts were touching on both occasions and I just eased them apart with a switch tool.
Obviously it may be a different switch on yours but give it a try and see if it helps.
I did a switch test. I'll be honest. Electronics is my weak skill. What is this telling me? It seems to gravitate towards the right pop bumper which is switch # 48. But my right pop works and works well.
Also, I have applied Molex connectors to my pops and disabled all 3 and whatever is killing my blinking lights still kills them with all 3 pops disabled
Quoted from cottonm4:I did a switch test. I'll be honest. Electronics is my weak skill. What is this telling me? It seems to gravitate towards the right pop bumper which is switch # 48. But my right pop works and works well.
Also, I have applied Molex connectors to my pops and disabled all 3 and whatever is killing my blinking lights still kills them with all 3 pops disabled
The switch under the pop bumper has 2 switches, one for the pop bumper solenoid and the other for scoring points.
Quoted from Lostcause:The switch under the pop bumper has 2 switches, one for the pop bumper solenoid and the other for scoring points.
Ding, ding,ding.
I have messaged pinball center about this plastic set as there is too much wrong with it for the money, too big, too small, holes out, colour, etc
I sent some off to get the protectors made and he was shocked how bad they were. Now he see’s plastic sets all the time.
Think I would rather put the old set back on and put up with the few that are damaged.
These need to be half that price.
Quoted from Lostcause:I have messaged pinball center about this plastic set as there is too much wrong with it for the money, too big, too small, holes out, colour, etc
I sent some off to get the protectors made and he was shocked how bad they were. Now he see’s plastic sets all the time.
Think I would rather put the old set back on and put up with the few that are damaged.
These need to be half that price.
Sorry to hear this. I was really hoping for a good set of plastics given the price, but after seeing what you received decided to cancel the order. I really appreciate you sharing so that others weren't stuck with the same low quality work.
Quoted from JustEverett:Sorry to hear this. I was really hoping for a good set of plastics given the price, but after seeing what you received decided to cancel the order. I really appreciate you sharing so that others weren't stuck with the same low quality work.
No worries, spent some time on this today. Very frustrating, I put the original back panel plastic back on as the new one was so far out. Three lamps on left and gi lamp on right. If I alter it for the 3 coloured lights the gi hole will be out and I will have to make it much bigger but the plastic in front should cover it almost.
Will look at the back panel plastic in a couple of days and see what can be done.
In the pic the original is in front.
690DCCB8-2FB9-48E8-8A32-20B79BD8D0C4 (resized).jpegAAAFD285-F977-4FBD-B146-FB1E3543D9CB (resized).jpegQuoted from Lostcause:I have messaged pinball center about this plastic set as there is too much wrong with it for the money, too big, too small, holes out, colour, etc
I sent some off to get the protectors made and he was shocked how bad they were. Now he see’s plastic sets all the time.
Think I would rather put the old set back on and put up with the few that are damaged.
These need to be half that price.
Quoted from JustEverett:Sorry to hear this. I was really hoping for a good set of plastics given the price, but after seeing what you received decided to cancel the order. I really appreciate you sharing so that others weren't stuck with the same low quality work.
Quoted from Lostcause:No worries, spent some time on this today. Very frustrating, I put the original back panel plastic back on as the new one was so far out. Three lamps on left and gi lamp on right. If I alter it for the 3 coloured lights the gi hole will be out and I will have to make it much bigger but the plastic in front should cover it almost.
Will look at the back panel plastic in a couple of days and see what can be done.
In the pic the original is in front.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes. Contact the seller. Our guy over here talked with the seller the and seller is going to take them back . We are going to be out for the shipping charges, though.
Quoted from Lostcause:The switch under the pop bumper has 2 switches, one for the pop bumper solenoid and the other for scoring points.
Quoted from vec-tor:Ding, ding,ding.
Since I had Molex-ed my pops a couple of years ago, removal is easy. I swapped the upper right pop bumper (#48) with the lower pop bumper (# 47) and my problem went away. This is all I did and the problem is gone. I did not do anything to either of the pops; It was a straight swap. No more problems.
But this is what I am left with: The Switch trust keeps flashing Trough #1, trough #2 and trough #3. Those switches are numbers 11,12,13.
The game is playing well.
What is the switch test trying to tell me with this?
If you have the three balls in the trough, then it is telling you that those switches are closed.
AKA activated.
Quoted from vec-tor:If you have the three balls in the trough, then it is telling you that those switches are closed.
AKA activated.
Thanks Vec-Tor.
Quoted from cottonm4:Yes. Contact the seller. Our guy over here talked with the seller the and seller is going to take them back . We are going to be out for the shipping charges, though.
Sorry about that but I think you are doing the right thing as you will not be happy.
I am in contact with them but I had already started altering/fitting so tuff for me, they have asked me if I can send the ones that are not the correct size so they can scan. They also said it is normal for colour to be out, because of scan. Well that can be altered after surely.
Will put some pics up soon I hope.
I'm sad to have to announce that I'm leaving the club. I really enjoy the pin, but sadly just ran out of room, so something had to go. I will say that Robocop still has my favorite music from any pin I've heard so far (especially with an external sub attached). I'm taking comfort though that it's going to a great home and owner. He's a police officer, his kids are excited for the pin, and he lives close enough that I can go play it once in a while if I wish to. I'll likely still check into this thread from time to time, and I wouldn't mind joining the club again someday down the line. Enjoy your Robocop pins you guys!
My new Pinball Center sling shot plastics, holes too big. I wouldn’t buy that for a dollar!!!
Still have protective layers on and protectors below.
Be interesting to see what they say about this as well.
81BBC9C3-C85B-4E29-9B63-348C00586531 (resized).jpegA5FF80BB-BA23-49BE-8885-4E012D3B0E96 (resized).jpegA814496E-D7E6-45AA-8BAA-849178692A0C (resized).jpegQuoted from Lostcause:My new Pinball Center sling shot plastics, holes too big. I wouldn’t buy that for a dollar!!!
Still have protective layers on and protectors below.
Be interesting to see what they say about this as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If they don't accept a return and refund your money, they are crooks. That's awful. 
Quoted from JustEverett:If they don't accept a return and refund your money, they are crooks. That's awful.
I started fitting the rest and making good, I sent some plastics off for protectors to be made and presumed they would be ok. They came back today!
Not sure what can be done now, they should give me some money back at least. I payed with PayPal so could set up a claim.
Wasn’t expecting oversized holes!!!
Quoted from JustEverett:If they don't accept a return and refund your money, they are crooks. That's awful.
That's terrible, the ones from Retro were much, much better if off on the blue color.
Quoted from gdonovan:That's terrible, the ones from Retro were much, much better if off on the blue color.
Pete has gone awol, not got back to a few people including myself. Why I went for these, would have made do with the captive ball plastic being damaged.
Just want to get this game back together and play.
Quoted from Lostcause:My new Pinball Center sling shot plastics, holes too big. I wouldn’t buy that for a dollar!!!
Still have protective layers on and protectors below.
Be interesting to see what they say about this as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The holes on mine were oversized in places but they still held the nut in place. I will take some pics at the weekend.
I think that the supplier could be over compensating the positioning of the holes because they have never had an original set to work from.
These plastics are so rare a good manufacturer could do really well making and selling them.
When I bought my RC I did not expect parts to be so scarce but it has added to the experience.
On another note I have found the lozenge shaped inserts for the 'directive' lights impossible to source and a friend 3D printed some for me and they are usable but they are not an exact fit.
If you know where to get some I would be very grateful.
Quoted from Thehipster:On another note I have found the lozenge shaped inserts for the 'directive' lights impossible to source
For those Prime Directive inserts, 2 blue and 1 red, I think they are solid pieces and not "hollow" like all of the other inserts. So, if they are a flat piece of plastic, perhaps you could get a small piece of red plastic and small piece of blue plastic and cut and file your own into etc correct shape.
If you cannot source the plastic in the UK, I live about 6 miles for a plastics supply and could procure and ship you some small pieces you could cut to fit.
=================================================
Oh, yeah, 1500 Robocops were built. I have no idea how many are left. Making anything dedicated to Robocop involves some risk.
Quoted from Thehipster:The holes on mine were oversized in places but they still held the nut in place. I will take some pics at the weekend.
I think that the supplier could be over compensating the positioning of the holes because they have never had an original set to work from.
These plastics are so rare a good manufacturer could do really well making and selling them.
When I bought my RC I did not expect parts to be so scarce but it has added to the experience.
On another note I have found the lozenge shaped inserts for the 'directive' lights impossible to source and a friend 3D printed some for me and they are usable but they are not an exact fit.
If you know where to get some I would be very grateful.
I am in contact with PC, I am going to send them my original back piece and sling shots so they can have the correct size and colour.
They are going to send me new sling shot plastics with smaller holes, no need for stupid size holes that the nut falls through. Crazy.
Hopefully it means the next batch of plastics will be correct, I guess nobody complained about them.
I will also send my long plastic over the captive ball as it is too short and not wide enough, that should cover all the faults with the set.
If they do this right they will be close to perfect. Just a shame mine won’t be though.
Quoted from Lostcause:I am in contact with PC, I am going to send them my original back piece and sling shots so they can have the correct size and colour.
They are going to send me new sling shot plastics with smaller holes, no need for stupid size holes that the nut falls through. Crazy.
Hopefully it means the next batch of plastics will be correct, I guess nobody complained about them.
I will also send my long plastic over the captive ball as it is too short and not wide enough, that should cover all the faults with the set.
If they do this right they will be close to perfect. Just a shame mine won’t be though.
I hope your action helps out in the future. It will be awhile before I will be trying to do any shopping at PC again.
Something I stumbled onto the other day. I did not know you could buy these and I went to the trouble to make my own. After I went to that trouble I found these.
I am not a big fan of #44 or #47 bayonet sockets and lamp in pop bumpers. The bulb keeps moving around and the light goes out. You know what I am taking about.
DE, at least my Robocop uses 555 wedge bulbs in the pop bumper cavity. They are nice as they screw down inside the cavity securely.
Two of the pop bumper lamp sockets in my Robocop were broken. I modded a couple of sockets to be just like the DE sockets. It was a waste of my time.
Here is the replacement that you can buy.
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-socket-with-centering-bracket.html
Quoted from cottonm4:Something I stumbled onto the other day. I did not know you could buy these and I went to the trouble to make my own. After I went to that trouble I found these.
I am not a big fan of #44 or #47 bayonet sockets and lamp in pop bumpers. The bulb keeps moving around and the light goes out. You know what I am taking about.
DE, at least my Robocop uses 555 wedge bulbs in the pop bumper cavity. They are nice as they screw down inside the cavity securely.
Two of the pop bumper lamp sockets in my Robocop were broken. I modded a couple of sockets to be just like the DE sockets. It was a waste of my time.
Here is the replacement that you can buy.
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-socket-with-centering-bracket.html
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Marco sells them too, just purchased a half dozen 2 weeks ago.
Quoted from cottonm4:For those Prime Directive inserts, 2 blue and 1 red, I think they are solid pieces and not "hollow" like all of the other inserts. So, if they are a flat piece of plastic, perhaps you could get a small piece of red plastic and small piece of blue plastic and cut and file your own into etc correct shape.
If you cannot source the plastic in the UK, I live about 6 miles for a plastics supply and could procure and ship you some small pieces you could cut to fit.
=================================================
Oh, yeah, 1500 Robocops were built. I have no idea how many are left. Making anything dedicated to Robocop involves some risk.
I never thought of that. I have a scroll saw so it is doable. I will try to source the plastic and get back to you. Because of pinball I invested in a digital micrometer (among lots of other tools) so I can get the sizes no problem.
Quoted from Thehipster:I never thought of that. I have a scroll saw so it is doable. I will try to source the plastic and get back to you. Because of pinball I invested in a digital micrometer (among lots of other tools) so I can get the sizes no problem.
I like to hit the pawn shops.
I got a belt/disk sander on a pawn shop special.
ryobi-belt-sanders-bd4601g-c3_600 (resized).jpg
I also have one of these except with out the disk. I do not know what your tool needs are but I get a lot of mileage out of my belt sander, band saw, and desk top drill press.
Now knocking your scroll saw. No at all. But when you are fitting something into a cavity, a combo belt sander/disk sander is money well spent.
Let us know how your plastic chase works out for you.
51e-8aJSpfL (resized).jpg
Just finished putting mine back together, working great. Just waiting on cliffy metal return lanes and ramp protectors.
I only had the blue fresnel for the back glass so I bought some red and blue lighting gel so it matched up and looks ok.
Plastics were a right pain but it’s done now and actually look ok with the clear protectors underneath.
No air balls from targets on mine.
Will do cabinet in the summer, for now I’m going to play the hell out of it.
46E06DC6-7F92-42B8-A377-3FE5F503924C (resized).jpeg88EED347-AF17-4C51-A02B-FFBF2BE3E602 (resized).jpegDA9C0181-A1A6-4B03-B98E-672C2EB82055 (resized).jpegQuoted from Lostcause:Just finished putting mine back together, working great. Just waiting on cliffy metal return lanes and ramp protectors.
I only had the blue fresnel for the back glass so I bought some red and blue lighting gel so it matched up and looks ok.
Plastics were a right pain but it’s done now and actually look ok with the clear protectors underneath.
No air balls from targets on mine.
Will do cabinet in the summer, for now I’m going to play the hell out of it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
They look OK I guess. At least they seem to hold the light well and do not look all washed out like the 6-piece retro set that came on mine.
I was out at JustEverett's last night looking his Robocop over. All of the usual plastics on his Robocop are broken. But what struck me is how much better his looks than mine looks---just because his plastics, while broken, have the original blue color. With the correct color on the plastics, the Robocop play field really pops.
I hope PC can get some corrected plastics made or maybe CPR will come around.
Quoted from cottonm4:They look OK I guess. At least they seem to hold the light well and do not look all washed out like the 6-piece retro set that came on mine.
I was out at JustEverett's last night looking his Robocop over. All of the usual plastics on his Robocop are broken. But what struck me is how much better his looks than mine looks---just because his plastics, while broken, have the original blue color. With the correct color on the plastics, the Robocop play field really pops.
I hope PC can get some corrected plastics made or maybe CPR will come around.
The clear protectors help spread the light so not so focused. Yeah they should be the same colour as Robocops armour but as you say they look ok.
My original plastics colour is great compared as well, my machine was only just taken storage and it was there for over 20 years.
Not happy with my right flipper, I used new rebuild kits but it seems to be too much play in the linkage as a ball pushes it down a tiny bit but it hits ok.
I will send my plastics over to PC as soon as I can, I hope they can perfect the set from them.
Quoted from cottonm4:For those Prime Directive inserts, 2 blue and 1 red, I think they are solid pieces and not "hollow" like all of the other inserts. So, if they are a flat piece of plastic, perhaps you could get a small piece of red plastic and small piece of blue plastic and cut and file your own into etc correct shape.
If you cannot source the plastic in the UK, I live about 6 miles for a plastics supply and could procure and ship you some small pieces you could cut to fit.
=================================================
Oh, yeah, 1500 Robocops were built. I have no idea how many are left. Making anything dedicated to Robocop involves some risk.
I should have the plastic in a couple of days. The thickness according to my micrometre is 5mm so all I need to do is cut the shape and sand it. Fingers crossed.
I'm needing to replace all my standup targets. Marcos shows these translucent greens a compatible with RC, but they don't list any for the yellow. I did find some translucent yellows listed under related items that look like they will work. Since I don't have a manual I'm hoping someone can who does have a manual will let me know if these will work. I do kind of like the translucent as opposed to the solid color standups.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-04 <green
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-16 <yellow
Quoted from JustEverett:I'm needing to replace all my standup targets. Marcos shows these translucent greens a compatible with RC, but they don't list any for the yellow. I did find some translucent yellows listed under related items that look like they will work. Since I don't have a manual I'm hoping someone can who does have a manual will let me know if these will work. I do kind of like the translucent as opposed to the solid color standups.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-04 <green
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-16 <yellow
You don't need any SU targets. Yours are hitting good. We can straighten them out. I've already been there with mine. And I have a manual.
The ones I would like to have are these from Big Daddy. But he does not have any in yellow.
Quoted from JustEverett:I'm needing to replace all my standup targets. Marcos shows these translucent greens a compatible with RC, but they don't list any for the yellow. I did find some translucent yellows listed under related items that look like they will work. Since I don't have a manual I'm hoping someone can who does have a manual will let me know if these will work. I do kind of like the translucent as opposed to the solid color standups.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-04 <green
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5966-16 <yellow
I would love these but in Europe all I can get are opaque standups. I would have thought these would work on RC no problem. They are pretty standard and with a diode should be a straight replacement.
Pinball Life has the targets. Get the full set.
They work great and seem to hold up fine on my RoboCop.
New problem shows up.
I will be playing a game and everything is rolling along. All of a sudden, my game dies and the ball drains. I push the credit button and can start a new game successfully.
This just happened to me again. This the 4th time.
What is causing my Robocop to go dead in the middle of a game but yet let's me start a new game as if nothing has happened?
Thoughts are appreciated.
Quoted from cottonm4:New problem shows up.
I will be playing a game and everything is rolling along. All of a sudden, my game dies and the ball drains. I push the credit button and can start a new game successfully.
This just happened to me again. This the 4th time.
What is causing my Robocop to go dead in the middle of a game but yet let's me start a new game as if nothing has happened?
Thoughts are appreciated.
Maybe it thinks a ball has drained, check the ball trough switches.
Quoted from cottonm4:New problem shows up.
I will be playing a game and everything is rolling along. All of a sudden, my game dies and the ball drains. I push the credit button and can start a new game successfully.
This just happened to me again. This the 4th time.
What is causing my Robocop to go dead in the middle of a game but yet let's me start a new game as if nothing has happened?
Thoughts are appreciated.
Check power supply +5volts... A bad capacitor to the regulator ic can cause problems.
Quoted from vec-tor:Check power supply +5volts... A bad capacitor to the regulator ic can cause problems.
Check the 12 pin square connector right below the GI connector on the power supply board, common to have burned or loose pins causing reboot.
I’ve have rebuilt both flippers and fitted new cabinet switches and getting a weak flipper issue on both flippers, sometimes when both flipped at the same time they don’t go up all the way.
More so with ball on end of flipper and not very often, checked all connections. Was thinking to replace both coils first then maybe try a new flipper board.
I believe there is also a relay in the circuit to check.
Never played a data east and find the flippers not as snappy as WPC, stern.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-club-if-you-own-one-or-use-to/page/20?hl=sixtyfourbits and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Wichita, KS
Washington