Sheepishly, I have to admit that I have yet to build this. It’s been on my to do list for a while.
I don’t seem to get airballs too often, and my plastics are already pretty beat in the usual spots. Still, I really need to get around to making this ASAP.
Thanks for the reminder!

I will be sending the plastics that will get damaged off to a guy here in the uk so he can make up some protectors and the one for the 3 targets will be brought forward to stop any possible air balls.
My plastic set has been shipped, I have had plastics from pinball center before and not been happy but have no choice. Last ones I had had burns around the edge and color not good.

Apparently cpr got a set of robocop plastics to reproduce, but no idea when they will actual get them done and available to the public

That is not what I want to hear.

I hope mine come in in good condition. I am going to be buried in them with the current exchange rate.

We live in hope, fingers crossed. But they have a bad name here in the UK for poor quality, when you have no choice what can you do. Better than nothing and having broken faded plastics. Had a blast with 2 of my sons earlier who came back from university for Xmas, even with crappy flippers.
Also watched the latest 4K clean up of the film earlier, was great

One thing is certain...when these babies come in, I'm not playing a game until we have a full set of plastic protectors (hopefully out of vivak).

I made a set from lexan, not hard.

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Put one of my air ball defectors on and do some protectors like Gdonovan and you will be golden.

However, once I put my air ball deflector on I have never had any more problems.

But for the price we had paid for these new plastics protecting them all is a good idea. I need to head over to Lustercraft and get some .030 polycarbonate and make some complete protector sets for both of us.

Poly plastic protector cutting party at my house! haha

You won't be disappointed with your plastics my friend.

Hi everyone. Update on my coil/switch problem .
I have had the board repaired.
When I put it back on the pin it won't let me into diagnostics.
Also the right sling activates the left pop bumper, itself and the left sling simultaneously so there is a switch problem but since I cannot get into the diagnostics I can't id it. Also the right and middle pops are dead.
Could someone remind me how to test fuses in case I am doing it wrong.

In the upper right hand side of your back box there should be a wire harness with 5 fuses. 3 pops and 2 sling shot fuses. To test a fuse you need a multimeter set to read ohms. If the fuse is good you will get a reading. A blown fuse will give no reading. If this is what you are asking.

I say there should be a harness in the upper right hand side; I read or heard that some early Robocops did not have this harness installed at the factory.

I have the harness and all fuses okay. I have got the diagnostics back. It was a loose connector. I think the resistors have gone on the board for the poppers. I'm struggling with the right slingshot causing the left slingshot and the left popper to pop simultaneously.

I had some pop issues on my MPU board. My problem was a couple of dead pop bumpers. I replaced several SCRs and some of the smaller transistors as well and could not get the problem fixed. I had to send the board out to a pro for repair.

What happens if you pull the fuse for the right sling? What happens if you pull the fuse for the left sling? What happens if you pull the fuse for the pop bumper? What changes happen when you pull each fuse one at time?

If I were you, I would be contacting your board repair guy and see what's going on.

I will contact him. He is a good guy and extremely helpful. I am going to try the diagnostic on the fuses to see what is going on there.

UPDATE.
Advice to self. Always wear spectacles and use bright lights when connecting MPUs. Because it does not matter how careful you think you are one pin out on the connector above the coil relay could cause damage.
Now repositioned and fully working.

I think you are walking down a road that has been well traveled

My pinball center plastics came today.
Different shade of blue and I noticed one of the plastics is about an inch short.
My originals look so much nicer but what can you do, hopefully when all are changed will not look too bad.

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Holy shit !

What I was saying, only use them if desperate. Some people have no standards!

What happened here? Are your plastics in the same color of blue that is being shown? I'm scratching my head and trying to figure out what Pantone book the artist pulled his colors from? And what about the one that is too short. I can only hope that my 2 sets come in with a better color palette than what is being shown here.

Looks similar to what they are advertising and it’s only when you do a side by side you can tell.

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Robocop on the playfield is what colour they should be and clearly not. Original plastics match the blue Robocop colour.

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I thought this pic was representative of what I was going to be buying. If the pic was put up with the color of blue you are showing I would have saw the difference immediately.

And to think sellers of pinball items get their panties wadded up when buyers question the quality of what is being hawked. And then I am supposed to feel sorry for them because that are just hobbyists.

I'm crossing my fingers and hoping mine come in better than yours.

I crossed my fingers too, good luck.

Boy that is kind of sad. They should have done a Pantone color profile.
It looks from your picture the blue has some red...has a violet vibe.
The OEM blue is more of a toned down Process Blue with Reflex Blue.

I won't leave Zitt on the hook for these. But if what I am getting looks like what has been posted, I would not mind if he boomeranged them right back to that German company that is pulling a fast one.

Those posted are pure trash.

I am in the process of putting new LEDs in my Robocop. I can tell you that if you have some extra money burning a hole in you're pocket that a kit od LEDs will clean you out real quick.

I completely redid my back box. I have the brightest 2smd cool white frosted bulbs and 8smd cool white flashers installed. There are 15-16 flashers in the back box and half of mine were not working. With the old LEDs someone else previously installed, the back box was rather dark and muted. It is shining bright now. And having all flashers working gives a nice look when you are playing.

The one caveat: With the bright back glass, I get a fairly pronounced reflection on the play field glass, however, the reflection only extends down to the set of yellow stand up targets; the brightness does not affect gameplay.

The pic does not do it justice, but it looks fantastic in person, IMO.

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As far as the feature lights, I went with color coded LEDs with a couple of mods.

One thing I changed was to add a blue 2smd and a blue 8smd flasher in the ED 209 1 million points light. Obviously, I cannot get a picture of that but I am very happy with having ED 209 lit up with blue.

The other item I did was to change the lighting of R-O-B-O-C-O-P in the Robocop lane/ramp. There are 7 colors in a rainbow. 8th grade science class used to teach the way to remember the colors of the rainbow: Roy G. Biv for red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.

Anyway, since Robocop have 7 letters just as the rainbow has 7 letters, I went for it. I think it looks nice when lit up.

I have found that the color green does not photograph very well.

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I also installed some pop bumper light rings. I had one go dead and have a replacement coming.
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I would guess they would all be the same colour, CPR will be doing these soon I believe and they should be a close match.
I will just put them all on as I think it will be ok as there will be no side by side comparison but that will be my last order from there.
They still have the upper and lower protective layer on so will look better.

I have rebuilt all the pops, slings and flippers. All good.
Just need to strip the playfield, clean and rebuild with new posts and rubbers. Not sure about leds. I left incandescents on my robowar and as it’s all clean they look really bright and vibrant. Will see what it looks like with clean inserts and lamps. I also prefer the normal flash lamps, I’m glad as this thing has a shit load!

My backglass is missing the red diffuser, I’m going to have to get some red and blue lighting gel to put behind so they match.

Also my Mylar is very matt, I tried polishing with cutting compound but no joy, is there a way to make it shiny again?

For sure, LEDs area subjective measure. I am in the camp that likes them. I like that they produce less heat than incandescents.

My diffusers are faded. One way I am combating that is one blue LED and 2 blue LED flashers on the right side and the same in red on the left side. I have google searched red and blue reflector material and finding any of size is not happening. Your idea of using gels might be the way to go. I would like to hear more about these.

This is a real long shot: You would need a hand held buffing machine like the body shops use and try machine polishing with some of the high gloss turbo cutting compounds. Basically, a hand held buffer that you would use if you were buffing out a new clear coat on a play field. You could try on a small area and if it showed promise, you would need to strip your platy field for access.

If you are a fan of the warm glow of incandescents, but want the low power pull and brighter light of LEDs you should check out Comets retro SMD bulbs. I put the non-ghosting bulbs in a Mars Trek of mine and they look great. I inserted a link to my post in that thread with the incadescent to retro SMD before and after.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/retro-smd-non-ghosting-bulbs?_pos=3&_sid=8703ef889&_ss=r

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/club-mars-trek-the-best-trek-pin-of-all#post-5836638

They keep the 9 pin GI connectors from catching fire which is my favorite reason for updating when it comes to older machines.

Less stress and heat on everything in the electrical supply chain.

I have been meaning to ask you how your Robocop compares in play action compared to the other DE pins you have been accumulating?

Tough question as there is lots of nostalgia overtones.

With the Titan bands it is a snappy shooter. Its a fairly simple but fun game, great one to practice ball passing flipper to flipper which makes my wife mad for some reason when I do it!

Light the ramp, pound the ramp, get multi-ball, pound the ramp if you can has been my go to play style. Good game when you have a few minutes to kill, lots of "one more game" feeling to it.

In my small building line up currently I'm playing Torpedo Alley, Laser War, Last Action Hero the most with Time Machine and Robocop bring up the rear. Star Trek, Lethal Weapon 3, Jurassic Park, Phantom of the Opera get played enough to give them exercise and Hook getting played the least. Not sure why, just not clicking. Hook and Trek might be going out sooner or later.

I like Trek but too shallow for my tastes. Would like to rotate out for a DE Star Wars. Wish they did better with it, even with the Chad code its just ok. I like Robocop better than Trek, not 100% sure why. Robocop just feels more fun.

Out in the workshop is Playboy which is pretty fun to my surprise and Secret Service which I'm thinking of boxing up for awhile. Space Shuttle has been getting pounded, really taking a shine to it.

I love LED’s, put them in all the wpc pins I’ve had but have to also put in led ocd as well or the euro equivalent Afterglow. Have a few spare of those. Fast on off looks bad to me.
Spent a few hours stripping the playfield and polishing the mylar to get some shine, looking better now.
I am trying to find a cliffy ramp protector for the right entrance, so far the Iron Man one looks pretty close to me.
Definitely will be going warm white with LED’s if I use them for GI and colour match inserts if it looks ok otherwise warm whites again or maybe sunlight.
If they strobe I will be taking back out as that will annoy me.
Also got some new return lane guides coming from cliffy.

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Never had strobing issues with Comet LEDs and Data East.

I mean fast on off not ghosting, if that’s the case then great I like the ramp up and down of incandescent lamps, without led ocd my Fish Tales it was a strobe fest.

I have posted on this several times. They look better with the protective plastic removed and only really work when all of the plastics are put on the pin as a set.

I agree that the supplier could have done a better job on the colour (a much better job) but trust me they do 'work' when a full set is on the pin.

I think we should contact the supplier as a group and ask them to try something with the colour. At least then future buyers might get a better match.

I buy a lot of stuff from Pinball Center and I find them a very good supplier generally and good with communication and I don't have the access to parts being in the UK that some of you guys get in the U.S.

Oh and I did warn everyone about the bad positioning of the holes but it does not take much effort to rectify the short-comings.

I did read what you had found and was expecting it from them anyway.
Yeah, most people in the UK know their plastics are pretty bad. Found out today the main back piece with the 3 lights don’t line up, going to be a pain in the arse as I will have a gap on the right when I correct it.

Will look best with warm white GI as they are lighter blue.

I found that the back plastic only required about a centimetre off the left edge and a re-drilling of the the starter holes for the screws.

The small gap at the right edge is barely noticeable because of the black background and the position on the playfield.

I know that everyone expects their own standard but when it comes to the look of their pins and although I was disappointed when I originally opened the packaging on my plastics I still love the way they look as a full set.

What I would give for that playfield. I had so many burnt out inserts on mine that I had to replace them and make my own decals to go on top. One of the inserts is impossible to source (the Uphold The Law lozenge) and I had a friend 3D print one for me.

But Robocop was my first pin and I will cherish it forever.

Sounds like its time I linked this Robocop again. I think the guy did a fabulous job.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-back-from-the-dead

I have Super Bands on mine buy will try Titans on my next swap.

It has what is my main driver. I like them fast. I bought mine based on a you tube video that I watched.

Yes. Fast. It is like a sword fight with the only rule being to stay alive.

For a long time I poo poo'd Baywatch. And then I got to play one. If I had the room I would be a Baywatch buyer.

I have played Jurassic Park and it was OK. Sopranos is OK.

I do not care for POTO at all. Tried Star Wars at TPF and was not impressed but maybe it was not set up right. Tommy did not do anything for me, either. But it was at TPF and probably not set up right.

I have bought a few things from cliffy, new ball return guides as mine were worn down causing ball hop and ramp protectors. Right ramp entrance has a crack and Cliffy’ s Genesis ramp protector fits the bill. I hope it all comes quick.
A pic he sent me of the Genesis protector on Robocop.

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Do you have link for these please

Contact Cliff, I only emailed with him last night. He is very helpful. He will remember.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/

Around the pops and on the slingshots really makes the game snap! I do everything so no more rubber dust.

Jurassic is a clunky shooter to me compared to LAH which is smooth as silk. JP is all about theme and T-Rex toy. The same scoops are in LAH as JP but just are way too close to the flippers on JP. When I play JP it never plays like a smooth game, always a clunkfest. The Chad code update makes the game more interesting but no change to the physical layout.

LAH? Like driving an old caddy in comparison, the shots just flow, awesome game.

POTO is ok. The sound is superb, getting the organ open and getting three ball multi is fun. Magic mirror is awkwardly placed and I never shoot for it or the standups. Spinner, lanes, ramp and trapdoor when something interesting is there.

Its a game that could use a rules overhaul.

A couple of days ago my Robocop started doing something strange. I don't know what make of it. You know how the lights start blinking up in the back to signal the skill shot. I was playing and all at once when the ball would hit the play field after launch. As soon as the ball drops and hits the play field it cancels the blinking lights. And now I cannot make my skill shots since the ball hits the play before it goes down the rollover. I made some movies.

The way it used to work was the ball would go over the rollover wire and then the lights would quit blinking as I made the skill shot.

I am scratching my head as to just why a ball impact on the play field would make these lights quit blinking. It started in the middle of a game. And this also cancels any chance to make a skill shot.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

You have a switch that has it's contact points to close together.
check the standup switches by the pop bumpers....and others, etc,etc,etc.

As above, bang the playfield and if it does it start putting paper between switch contacts one at a time to find the culprit. Not familiar with this yet does it have switch test because you could check it that way, much easier.