(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to


By JCJP

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Thehipster
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There are 1121 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 23.
#801 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It did not take this shop very long to sell out when a few sets were made recently.
Sign up for the waiting list.
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/robocop-plastics-set/

Thanks for sharing this. I signed up for this waiting list a few weeks ago. Hopefully it’s close to getting enough people on it that they’ll do another run.

#802 3 months ago

I just went to play a game tonight for the first time in a while and noticed my left flipper is a little sticky. I hit the button and it goes up fine but then it takes a minute to go all the way back down.

#803 3 months ago

I took it apart, cleaned it up and stretched out the spring a little and it's all good now. Looks like a rebuild kit is in my future

1 week later
#804 81 days ago

Hello everyone. Schoolboy error alert on my part. A switch stuck on one of the slingshots and heated the coil enough to warp the sleeve and melt it in place causing the popper plunger to stick in the coil.

I ordered up a new coil and when I fitted it I thought I would use the 'there are only two coloured wires. what can go wrong theory' instead of taking a pic.

My problem arose when I went to wire the new coil and found that it had three tabs instead of two (one lug was not connected to the coil wires).

I think I wired it with the anode and cathode in the wrong direction and fried the diode. I tested the diode and it was dead so I put on a new one. I wired it up the other way around with the 28v to the lined side of the diode. Nothing.

I then swapped the coil with the one in the other slingshot and nothing. I now have two non-working slingshots.

I was hoping that one of you guys would be kind enough to send a pic of the correct wiring on your Robo slings.

Thanks in advance.

#805 81 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Twice in the last week, the last time was about 30 minutes ago I am rolling up points on the pin. I am approaching 10 million points. From what am seeing it looks like Robocop does not displays scores above 9,999,999. At 9 million and change I will make some good ED-209 ramp points and look up and my score went from 9 million down to 300,000-400,000 points. It's like starting over.
So I took a real close look at the score display and I do not see an extra place for the 10 million digit. Looks like we are stuck with a 7 digit score system. Somebody tell me I am not looking at something correctly, please.

You are not seeing things. Rococop does rollover at 9,999,999. Play it on hard settings. You will very rarely rollover unless you use the 'buy in' feature.

#806 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Hello everyone. Schoolboy error alert on my part. A switch stuck on one of the slingshots and heated the coil enough to warp the sleeve and melt it in place causing the popper plunger to stick in the coil.
I ordered up a new coil and when I fitted it I thought I would use the 'there are only two coloured wires. what can go wrong theory' instead of taking a pic.
My problem arose when I went to wire the new coil and found that it had three tabs instead of two (one lug was not connected to the coil wires).
I think I wired it with the anode and cathode in the wrong direction and fried the diode. I tested the diode and it was dead so I put on a new one. I wired it up the other way around with the 28v to the lined side of the diode. Nothing.
I then swapped the coil with the one in the other slingshot and nothing. I now have two non-working slingshots.
I was hoping that one of you guys would be kind enough to send a pic of the correct wiring on your Robo slings.
Thanks in advance.

Can anyone help on this please? Just advice on which lug for which wire would be a great help. Or which colour wire goes to the banded side of the diode?

#807 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Can anyone help on this please? Just advice on which lug for which wire would be a great help. Or which colour wire goes to the banded side of the diode?

Put up a couple of pic, please.

#808 80 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Put up a couple of pic, please.

20201106_203108 (resized).jpg20201106_203123 (resized).jpg
#809 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Is there a fuse just for the slingshots?

#810 80 days ago

I have no idea of how things should look, but if you don't get this solved by later tonight, I will try to remember to take some pics of mine for you to compare to

#811 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm busy for awhile. Later on today I will open up my Robo and have a look.

Stand by.

Also, do you have a Robocop manual? If not, you should get one. They are on Ebay all of the time.

#812 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Red wires go to the cathode side of the diodes.

#813 80 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'm busy for awhile. Later on today I will open up my Robo and have a look.
Stand by.
Also, do you have a Robocop manual? If not, you should get one. They are on Ebay all of the time.

I have a manual of sorts. I have changed coils many times but i did not follow my own rule of taking pics before desoldering.
It is getting late in the UK so I will await your findings. Thanks again

#814 80 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Red wires go to the cathode side of the diodes.

Is that where I have them now? Striped side of the diode?

I just looked it up and yes I have them on that side. Do the slings have a fuse that I may have blown when I was putting them on the wrong way round wiring wise?

#815 80 days ago

Left
A379DAD5-9284-40B3-8A9C-DEC44FBF24A7 (resized).jpeg

Right
6470E994-ABD2-4980-A620-94C2920C6FC7 (resized).jpeg

Not sure if these help or not as my coils only have 2 tabs. But thought I’d post anyway

#816 80 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Left sling coil. ( 2 lugs only)

Red is the banded side of the diode.

IMG_4881 (resized).JPG

Right sling coil. (2 lugs only)

IMG_4882 (resized).JPG

I read somewhere that not all Robocops have this fused harness but if yours has the harness you are lucky. It is is up high on the right side of the backbox.

IMG_4884 (resized).JPG

Both slings and all 3 pops are fused with 2.5 amp slo-blows. They are represented on page 35 of the manual.

Trust me, there will come a day when you will wish you had the complete manual. It takes a whole lot of study to figure out how to read the DE manuals.

Study this harness and drawing until you you are blue in the face. Pay attention to the wire colors. It is good training for learning how to read the DE prints. E.G. The top row is your coils. The bottom row is the switches. The Right pop is controlled by a Blu-ORN wire and its switch is a ORN-BLK wire.

Your right sling is BLU-GRN and its switch is ORN-GRN.

This should get you going.

Keep us posted, please.

IMG_4885 (resized).JPG

Sidebar: Robocop flipper coils are also of 2-lugs only. There is no EOS switch as the EOS function is part of one the circuit boards.

#817 80 days ago

Hey cottonm4 , are our sling coils in different orientations? And does that matter? I’m still fairly new to pinball so forgive me if this is a noobish question lol.

#818 80 days ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Hey cottonm4 , are our sling coils in different orientations? And does that matter? I’m still fairly new to pinball so forgive me if this is a noobish question lol.

No need to apologize. It is a fair question. AFAIAC, any question that is not a smart ass question is a fair question. No one fell out of their mother's womb knowing this stuff. It is a learning process. Don't apologize for asking a fair question.

You can install the coil in any direction you want if you have enough extra wire to make the rotation. The wires still stay on the same lug. I like mine with the lugs pointing down to the floor. This makes it easier (for me anyway) to service the coil wiring if/when that time comes.

EDIT: I do say that you have had quite a collection for a newbie

#819 80 days ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Hey cottonm4 , are our sling coils in different orientations? And does that matter? I’m still fairly new to pinball so forgive me if this is a noobish question lol.

Your coils are in the factory OEM position.

#820 79 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

EDIT: I do say that you have had quite a collection for a newbie

Thanks. Some of the games on my past list I wouldn’t have minded keeping (funny enough top two would be cybernaut and Shaq attaq) if money was no object. But I’ve rotated pins out to help fund new pins coming in, and also to get to try more games. Besides my one local buddy who I got into pinball, the next closest pins are a 4 hour round trip for us. So I try to rotate often for fun. Though most of the current collection games feel like keepers, so maybe I’ll slow down for a while. Or at least for winter lol.

#821 79 days ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

Left
[quoted image]
Right
[quoted image]
Not sure if these help or not as my coils only have 2 tabs. But thought I’d post anyway

This is a fantastic help. Thank you.

#822 79 days ago

Well the fuse had blown and I don't have a replacement atm.

Going to order a pair of new coils and some fuses.

#823 76 days ago

Well two new coils fitted in 'the correct' manner (red to banded side of diode), new fuses checked and changed.
Absolutely nothing from the slingshot bumpers.

Have I damaged the switches or is it something else?

What tests do I need to carry out (at the weekend) to diagnose the fault?

I have just discovered that S5 fuse for the slingshot is blowing on power up so where do I look for the short please?

#824 75 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Well two new coils fitted in 'the correct' manner (red to banded side of diode), new fuses checked and changed.
Absolutely nothing from the slingshot bumpers.
Have I damaged the switches or is it something else?
What tests do I need to carry out (at the weekend) to diagnose the fault?
I have just discovered that S5 fuse for the slingshot is blowing on power up so where do I look for the short please?

UPDATE! At the advice of a friend and fellow enthusiast I had a close up look at the transistors and found that I had fried Q10. I have decided to change the TIP122 bank with new ones. It means that I check that I haven't damaged the reverse side of the board at the same time.

#825 75 days ago
Quoted from Action53:

Is anyone still making plastics for this? Mine have seen better days

Zitt is doing a group order (cutoff 11-30-20) for Pinball Center parts, it appears the Robocop plastic set is in stock.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/6770/plastic-set-for-robocop

Read thread and contact Zitt soon for details...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed

Added 39 days ago:

NLA

#826 74 days ago
Quoted from miracleman:

Zitt is doing a group order (cutoff 11-30-20) for Pinball Center parts, it appears the Robocop plastic set is in stock.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/6770/plastic-set-for-robocop
Read thread and contact Zitt soon for details...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed

I got their last set earlier this year and it was the best thing that I have done to my Robocop but if anyone is thinking about buying a set please be aware that you will have to drill a couple of holes on them here and there as they do not match exactly. (Pinball center may have addressed this issue) and the trickiest one is the back plastic where you may have to re-drill some pilot holes and cut off about 2 centimetres of the left hand side to make it fit. Also the plastic that covers the laser kick re-light channel does not sit correctly and leaves a slight gap near the metal guides.
I can, however reiterate that your Robocop will look amazing when you put the full matching set of plastics on the playfield.
The Robocop keyring is an added bonus.

#827 74 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Also the plastic that covers the laser kick re-light channel does not sit correctly and leaves a slight gap near the metal guides.

An airball broke mine. I found a replacement on Ebay but the clear area is nicotine yellow. On several of my pins, I have had to make some of the mounting holes a little longer for better fit. Would enlarging the holes help with alignment?

Quoted from Thehipster:

I can, however reiterate that your Robocop will look amazing when you put the full matching set of plastics on the playfield.
The Robocop keyring is an added bonus.

I have one of the 6 piece "replacement" plastics kit on mine. They looked all washed out color wise when the GI lights are on. How do they look with this complete kit? Better? $130.00 is a lot of money for 6 pieces of plastic. Is there that much of an improvement?

#828 73 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

An airball broke mine. I found a replacement on Ebay but the clear area is nicotine yellow. On several of my pins, I have had to make some of the mounting holes a little longer for better fit. Would enlarging the holes help with alignment?

I have one of the 6 piece "replacement" plastics kit on mine. They looked all washed out color wise when the GI lights are on. How do they look with this complete kit? Better? $130.00 is a lot of money for 6 pieces of plastic. Is there that much of an improvement?

Yes some of the parts just need the holes enlarging but the plastic over the re-light the laser kick is not large enough to adjust.

The plastics are more opaque than the 6 piece set and look a lot better with GI.

I love mine and I would advise anyone with a Robocop to fit them as long as they fit a cottonm4 air ball prevention mod on the yellow targets. As far as the price tag is concerned I would honestly say that it is the best value for money I have found in my (short) pinball life.

#829 73 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Also the plastic that covers the laser kick re-light channel does not sit correctly and leaves a slight gap near the metal guides.

Quoted from Thehipster:

but the plastic over the re-light the laser kick is not large enough to adjust

Thank you for answering. I have a gap between the laser kick plastic and metal guides. Perhaps the gap you have is different.

I'm thinking hard about buying a set. It is just that it is hard to pull the trigger when I only need 6 of the plastics.

#830 72 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you for answering. I have a gap between the laser kick plastic and metal guides. Perhaps the gap you have is different.
I'm thinking hard about buying a set. It is just that it is hard to pull the trigger when I only need 6 of the plastics.

I had a full set on but most of the usual suspects had been replaced or got damaged over the years. It just looks fab with everything the same colour. The large set even includes the same colour speaker plastic. And don't forget that the repro key rings go for about $50.
It is difficult to describe the way that they look and photographs don't show the true colour but trust me they look amazing.

#831 70 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Left sling coil. ( 2 lugs only)
Red is the banded side of the diode.
[quoted image]
Right sling coil. (2 lugs only)
[quoted image]
I read somewhere that not all Robocops have this fused harness but if yours has the harness you are lucky. It is is up high on the right side of the backbox.
[quoted image]
Both slings and all 3 pops are fused with 2.5 amp slo-blows. They are represented on page 35 of the manual.
Trust me, there will come a day when you will wish you had the complete manual. It takes a whole lot of study to figure out how to read the DE manuals.
Study this harness and drawing until you you are blue in the face. Pay attention to the wire colors. It is good training for learning how to read the DE prints. E.G. The top row is your coils. The bottom row is the switches. The Right pop is controlled by a Blu-ORN wire and its switch is a ORN-BLK wire.
Your right sling is BLU-GRN and its switch is ORN-GRN.
This should get you going.
Keep us posted, please.
[quoted image]
Sidebar: Robocop flipper coils are also of 2-lugs only. There is no EOS switch as the EOS function is part of one the circuit boards.

I replaced the tip 122 for the left slinger and checked the switches were open and that the fuses were okay. Someone had been at the back of the board with some wiring across parts of it which is beyond my understanding.
I switched on and the right slinger fuse blew.
I am now organising for the board to be repaired.

#832 70 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I replaced the tip 122 for the left slinger and checked the switches were open and that the fuses were okay. Someone had been at the back of the board with some wiring across parts of it which is beyond my understanding.
I switched on and the right slinger fuse blew.
I am now organising for the board to be repaired.

Sorry to hear that. I had a pop problem and replaced this and replaced that; It was a water of my time and money. I woulds love to be attend Circuit board troubleshooting class, but there are none.

Good luck.

#833 64 days ago

Three items.

!) I did not like how weak the spinner is on Robocop. One reason, IMO, is the spinner is making its scores with a micro switch. I'm thinking that little switch button creates drag so I replaced the microswitch.

IMG_4974 (resized).JPG

I replaced the micro switch with a vintage style blade switch set up. I am getting much better spins now. It helps to improve the score since I am getting more spins. This mod does not seem like it make the scoring unbalanced.

IMG_4970 (resized).JPG

I had to move the mounting holes and reposition the blade switches but there is plenty of space to allow the swap to happen. The mod is easily reversible should I change my mind.

IMG_4973 (resized).JPG

It does not match the spins I get on my solid state pins but it is better than it was.
=====================================================

Some time back I installed Titan rubbers on my Robocop. I like Titans, but I just changed my slingshot rubbers back to the old-style whites. The Titans seemed to get stretched a little smaller when wrapping around the sling post just above the flippers and made shooting post passes a little more difficult.

The old style whites are just a little better with post passes, IMO.
===========================

I have had me share of headaches with the flippers on this pin. Sometimes they kick like mules and other times a flipper could barely knock the ball the distances of 2 or 3 inches. Flipper problems with Robocop are a known problem. DE eventually replaced blade style flipper switches with mirco switches for the flippers.

My situation would be my flippers were hitting hard and then just go soft for some reason I could not figure out. My right flipper got really bad the other day. I checked the plunger and installed a new sleeve. This was no help. It would be hot for one or two flips and then go ice cold for a couple of flips. Hot then cold. And repeat.

My flipper blade gaps were in spec but I figured I would try something different. I closed up the gap between the flipper switch blade contacts with a gap that is about the same measurement as a business card and that has seemed to have solved my "weak" flipper problem. And now they are kicking like mules again.
============================

I need to get back to work. I am going to swap my older ROMs back into the machine and see if that cures the issues of some switches not registering on the first rollover in an inlane. I hope this will bring my sounds back.

#834 64 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Three items.
!) I did not like how weak the spinner is on Robocop. One reason, IMO, is the spinner is making its scores with a micro switch. I'm thinking that little switch button creates drag so I replaced the microswitch.
[quoted image]
I replaced the micro switch with a vintage style blade switch set up. I am getting much better spins now. It helps to improve the score since I am getting more spins. This mod does not seem like it make the scoring unbalanced.
[quoted image]
I had to move the mounting holes and reposition the blade switches but there is plenty of space to allow the swap to happen. The mod is easily reversible should I change my mind.
[quoted image]
It does not match the spins I get on my solid state pins but it is better than it was.
=====================================================
Some time back I installed Titan rubbers on my Robocop. I like Titans, but I just changed my slingshot rubbers back to the old-style whites. The Titans seemed to get stretched a little smaller when wrapping around the sling post just above the flippers and made shooting post passes a little more difficult.
The old style whites are just a little better with post passes, IMO.
===========================
I have had me share of headaches with the flippers on this pin. Sometimes they kick like mules and other times a flipper could barely knock the ball the distances of 2 or 3 inches. Flipper problems with Robocop are a known problem. DE eventually replaced blade style flipper switches with mirco switches for the flippers.
My situation would be my flippers were hitting hard and then just go soft for some reason I could not figure out. My right flipper got really bad the other day. I checked the plunger and installed a new sleeve. This was no help. It would be hot for one or two flips and then go ice cold for a couple of flips. Hot then cold. And repeat.
My flipper blade gaps were in spec but I figured I would try something different. I closed up the gap between the flipper switch blade contacts with a gap that is about the same measurement as a business card and that has seemed to have solved my "weak" flipper problem. And now they are kicking like mules again.
============================
I need to get back to work. I am going to swap my older ROMs back into the machine and see if that cures the issues of some switches not registering on the first rollover in an inlane. I hope this will bring my sounds back.

There is a fine line adjustment on the spinner rod, with how it traverses the hole in the playfield.
I have come across many that ether rub against the back side, or the front side, of the spinner
position.

#835 63 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

There is a fine line adjustment on the spinner rod, with how it traverses the hole in the playfield.
I have come across many that ether rub against the back side, or the front side, of the spinner
position.

Thanks for reminding me of this.

When I was first toying around with the spinner, I lowered the actuator rod onto the wrong side of the ball guide and noticed immediate drag. And then when I installed the old style blade switch I did have a small amount of contact and drag, but did not see it until your post.. I corrected this and the spinner spins better than it did. But it is still no match for the spinner rips I get on my classic Sterns. I may try one of my extra Stern spinners and see if that adds more spins.

#836 63 days ago

Several months ago, I brought up an issue that my inlane rollovers would not register any sound when a ball passed through them for the first time. It was only after the balled passed through after that that any sound would be emitted. And after the ball drained, this no-sound issue would reveal itself again.

I mentioned that a friend bought a Robcop and he was not experiencing this sound/lock of sound issue. His ROM set was the a-30 set.

This morning, I swapped my A-34 ROMS back to the A-30 ROMS. There has been improvement.

I'm not ready to declare victory yet, however, there has been improvement. Now, on the first pass through the inlanes, I am getting the inlane sound during the first pass. It is not 100%; It is about 90% of the time that I get the sound on the first pass.

Maybe this will improve as I get more time on the pin.

I'll come back to this post if I notice more improvement.

#837 63 days ago

In other news, I got my right hand flipper back and hitting hard. I closed the gap between the flipper blade switch contacts. Just making contact did not seem to be enough. It needed good, hard, positive contact. If anybody runs into some flaky acting flippers you might consider trying to close the switch gap to the barest minimum.

IMG_4982 (resized).JPG

#838 63 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

In other news, I got my right hand flipper back and hitting hard. I closed the gap between the flipper blade switch contacts. Just making contact did not seem to be enough. It needed good, hard, positive contact. If anybody runs into some flaky acting flippers you might consider trying to close the switch gap to the barest minimum.
[quoted image]

Is the cabinet flipper switch you have an old style tungsten point contact?
I believe Robocop has solid state flippers and thus should have gold contact points.
More or less like this?
https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/A-00455/large.jpg

#839 63 days ago

I also talked about how when I removed my lockdown bar that my play field glass would just start sliding out on its own. Indeed, I was not paying a close attention to this and almost had my glass slide all the way out and was going to be on its way to crashing to the floor.

There are several ways to fix this problem but those ways might be a hassle to mess with.

What I did was lay down 3 thicknesses of Gorilla duct tape. This had the effect of making the glass "thicker" so it would offer resistance inside the glass channels.

In an effort to allow the tape to be easy to use and not roll backwards over itself, I stair stepped the the 3 layers to make for an easy reinstall of the back glass.

IMG_4985 (resized).JPG

Then I slid the glass into position and slid a nice sharp razor blade along the edge of the rail which cut away all of the excess tape. I did this tape action for both sides. Now the glass stays put until I take positive action to remove it. And cutting the tape with the razor blade lets the tape hide in plain sight.

IMG_4987 (resized).JPG

#840 63 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is the cabinet flipper switch you have an old style tungsten point contact?
I believe Robocop has solid state flippers and thus should have gold contact points.
More or less like this?
https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/A-00455/large.jpg

Robocop is solid state flippers and I do have the gold contacts.

#841 62 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Several months ago, I brought up an issue that my inlane rollovers would not register any sound when a ball passed through them for the first time. It was only after the balled passed through after that that any sound would be emitted. And after the ball drained, this no-sound issue would reveal itself again.
I mentioned that a friend bought a Robcop and he was not experiencing this sound/lock of sound issue. His ROM set was the a-30 set.
This morning, I swapped my A-34 ROMS back to the A-30 ROMS. There has been improvement.
I'm not ready to declare victory yet, however, there has been improvement. Now, on the first pass through the inlanes, I am getting the inlane sound during the first pass. It is not 100%; It is about 90% of the time that I get the sound on the first pass.
Maybe this will improve as I get more time on the pin.
I'll come back to this post if I notice more improvement.

I now have a couple of hours platy time with Robocop. Reverting back to the A-30 ROMs has helped with the sounds coming from the inlanes. I do have sound during the first pass of the ball---most of the time. I have no idea why reverting back to the A-30s helped with this issue part of the time. I was expecting a 100% correction instead of this partial correction I have. I'll just have to live with it.

Quoted from cottonm4:

In other news, I got my right hand flipper back and hitting hard. I closed the gap between the flipper blade switch contacts. Just making contact did not seem to be enough. It needed good, hard, positive contact. If anybody runs into some flaky acting flippers you might consider trying to close the switch gap to the barest minimum.
[quoted image]

I knew I was having sporadic problems with my right hand flipper. But I did not "feel" that my left flipper was getting weak. I started dealing with this problem of fluctuating flipper strength not long after I had the pin shipped in. For a fix, I tried a Rottendog FLP-023 flipper board and what I immediately recognized was my left flipper strength was lessened just enough that I was missing half of my ramp shots in that I could make the shot but it would not complete and resulted in getting the "crash" sound. I sold the Rottendog board and located a later model DE flipper board that I was using.

And through all of this I would be dealing with flippers (especially the right flipper) that presented me with intermittent flipper issues. Closing my flipper switch gaps has made all of my flipper problems go away.

I put this out for anyone else who might be dealing with DE flipper issues: Close up your flipper switch gaps and try that first. It is cheap to try.

If this problem comes back then I will replace my flipper blade switches with micro switches.

#842 61 days ago

It sounds like cpr will be making reproduction plastics sets for robocop in the near future. This is great news for anyone like me who could use a set.

#843 61 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I now have a couple of hours platy time with Robocop. Reverting back to the A-30 ROMs has helped with the sounds coming from the inlanes. I do have sound during the first pass of the ball---most of the time. I have no idea why reverting back to the A-30s helped with this issue part of the time. I was expecting a 100% correction instead of this partial correction I have. I'll just have to live with it.

I did a lot on ROM switching, even tried swapping out MPU and Soundboard with no changes.

Chad says the problem is in the sound code and considering I swapped everything but sounds reasonable.

I have not been able to find a different version of the sound code than what I already have and what is posted on the IPBD.

#844 61 days ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

It sounds like cpr will be making reproduction plastics sets for robocop in the near future. This is great news for anyone like me who could use a set.

I have a friend with a Robocop. Both of us just placed an order with that German company that makes the complete sets of Robocop plastics.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/6770/plastic-set-for-robocop

Throuble is that the Garman company will not ship to U.S. So, pinsider Zitt is making group buys.

I think you have until Nov. 30 to get an order going with pinsider Zitt.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed/page/2

See posts #825 in this thread.

#845 61 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have a friend with a Robocop. Both of us just placed an order with that German company that makes the complete sets of Robocop plastics.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/6770/plastic-set-for-robocop
Throuble is that the Garman company will not ship to U.S. So, pinsider Zitt is making group buys.
I think you have until Nov. 30 to get an order going with pinsider Zitt.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed/page/2
See posts #825 in this thread.

Thanks for the heads up. Right now I just spent about $450 on parts for my South park playfield swap, and close to $700 on Christmas, so I'll likely put Robocop's plastics on the "later" list for now hahaha.
With that being said, please update here when you do get your plastic set in, I'm very interested in seeing it.

#846 61 days ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

please update here when you do get your plastic set in, I'm very interested in seeing it.

I will do that.

#847 61 days ago

Well crap, Now that I have done all if this work to my Robocop something else has just developed.

I'm playing along and my sounds start messing up.

1) The voice call out for "Robocop" starts calling out Robocop and will not stop.

2) I'm playing along and all of a sudden I see I have 30 credits added to the game. I have this pin set to award a game at 2,500,000. Now I am getting 30 credits at 100,000 points. All the while I keep hearing Robocop repeated incessantly.

3) I turn the pin off and then back on and put on 4 players. I turn off then back on and knock off another 4 players. I do this until I get down to 1 or 2 players and when I start play ing again it will roll up another 30 credits.

I'm clueless on this.

Any ideas, anybody?

Thanks

#848 61 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Well crap, Now that I have done all if this work to my Robocop something else has just developed.
I'm playing along and my sounds start messing up.
1) The voice call out for "Robocop" starts calling out Robocop and will not stop.
2) I'm playing along and all of a sudden I see I have 30 credits added to the game. I have this pin set to award a game at 2,500,000. Now I am getting 30 credits at 100,000 points. All the while I keep hearing Robocop repeated incessantly.
3) I turn the pin off and then back on and put on 4 players. I turn off then back on and knock off another 4 players. I do this until I get down to 1 or 2 players and when I start play ing again it will roll up another 30 credits.
I'm clueless on this.
Any ideas, anybody?
Thanks

This is video I made of Robocop going nuts. I am at a loss with this.

Before it got to this point, I starting getting callouts for the upper right hand saucer such as, " I like it!. And the upper right hand saucer started trying to kick out a ball that was not there.

#849 61 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This is video I made of Robocop going nuts. I am at a loss with this.
Before it got to this point, I starting getting callouts for the upper right hand saucer such as, " I like it!. And the upper right hand saucer started trying to kick out a ball that was not there.

Could it be the ram deteriorating?

#850 61 days ago

Seems like a shorted out/stuck switch. Possibly a whole row or column?

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