1) Yes they are flasher bulbs.

2) Question is, is that the correct socket they are in. The flasher take a different one than the normal lamps and won't fit PCB.

You are confusing me. I still have incandescent flashers in my Robocop. I'd have to lift the glass to check, but I thought the screw in sockets were the same for both the flashers and the other bulbs (#555s).

The flasher/socket in my hand in the picture is bigger than the rest of the ones in the playfied

Nope, flashers are larger.

Where do we buy the sockets for those? I have a whole drawer of the smaller ones.

Thepinballwizard.net or Marco, for 906 bulb

Thanks

I am still trying to track down my lock eject issues
Somehow I didn’t see that left sling is not registering in switch test
The cap and resistor for the left sling are on the opposite switch as the right sling
Does anyone know if that is correct ?

27A6CAF4-7613-44F4-9280-1962C011C3D2 (resized).jpeg

It would be 2-3 days before I can open my machine up to have a look.

Twice in the last week, the last time was about 30 minutes ago I am rolling up points on the pin. I am approaching 10 million points. From what am seeing it looks like Robocop does not displays scores above 9,999,999. At 9 million and change I will make some good ED-209 ramp points and look up and my score went from 9 million down to 300,000-400,000 points. It's like starting over.

So I took a real close look at the score display and I do not see an extra place for the 10 million digit. Looks like we are stuck with a 7 digit score system. Somebody tell me I am not looking at something correctly, please.

The sling was not my issues. The cap and resistor can be on either activating switch

I will get a look at the scoring tonight to see if it goes last 7 digits

Only 7 digits

I’ve read 2 different ways the ball lock process works. I had thought that when the first ball falls through the trapdoor during arrest it will get kicked from the left saucer to to top one..
But another had posted that the ball is to stay in that saucer below the trap door and not kick up to the top lock untill the next arrest mode. That way if you make the ramp shot without activating arrest again the ball bumps the locked ball and goes back to the playfield via the vuk
As i am chasing a issue, can anyone confirm the correct path? Thanks

Well, I thought I had it all figured out. But you said something that I did not consider so now I will need to remove my glass and do some glass-off experimenting. To do this, the left ramp, the receiver ramp, will have to be removed and the receiver ramp switch will have to activated manually (actually, both ramp switches will have to be activated manually) and the ball will have to be dropped into the left saucer manually. And observation will be needed.

Another project to do.

I believe the second way is correct. If you have more than one suspect ready for arrest, and you then lock the first ball, it will automatically go into the first lock, then automatically kick up into the second lock spot. But, if you only have one suspect lit for arrest, and make the ramp shot, the ball will rest in the first lock spot, and remain there until the second suspect is lit for arrest, at which point it will move to the second lock spot then. That is how mine seems to work at least.

Yup, second way is how it's supposed to work.

I posted a fun strategy (post # 432) where you lock two balls, then light the ED209 shot. Shoot the ramp to collect ED 209 Million and start Multiball.

And to anyone rolling the score you've got it set up too easy. Robocop needs to be set up fast & brutal!

My best score is 4.1 million, so I'm a ways away from rolling the score. I have it set up so its fast, but it doesn't feel cheap. Having no ball save sometimes feels cheap when it flies from the pops straight down the middle though hahaha.

Then I think I need to investigate more around switch 28 wiring, or board, since its kicking out ball one. I had been thinking switch 29 ( top) was signaling incorrectly, but that probably isn't right.. thanks

Yes. After thinking on it this has to be the correct way.

I do get the ED-209 shot with 2-balls locked and the third ball lights multi-ball quite frequently. Many of those shots come in in the last 2 or 3 seconds of the hurry-up as I battle that ball.
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I have my Robocop set on "factory rules". I tried "easy rules" and the only thing that changes, as far as I can tell, is that ED-209 lights up all of the time. I switched back to factory rules. I may try "hard rules" but figure the only change will be that ED-209 will not light up much at all. And I have not bothered to try "novelty rules".

It has taken me 3 years and lots of playing to get where I rolled the score just the other day. The first time was just the other day. It may be along time before in happens again. But I am getting better. It was a disappointment after playing a lot of newer pins with multi-million scores to see that once I got that 10 mil score it was "taken"away from me.

Mine is fast and brutal. Other than changing to "hard rules" I'm not sure what else I can do.

Robocop is fast and tough. But I do not consider it to be a Drain-o-matic where every shot is designed to drain, like some of those way old machines. It is brutal but the shots are fair, IMO.

I also think whether if I would like it better it is was more modern and had some ball savers. But if it did I would probably turn them off. It is just a fast, simple rule set game. And when you get in synch with the machine and can hit all it throws at you, I call that pinball bliss

I sure am liking all the action the Robocop thread has been getting for the last few months. This thread was dead for a long time.

Now, all of these issues, differences, and solutions are being posted. This is good stuff.

Can you imagine the computer code involved just to handle all of the different ways the ramp shot works? I had never thought about it too much before.

I just finally figured out the sweet spot on the left flipper to make the ramp shot. The other night I got my first multiball and I've done it three more times since. Feels pretty good

I’ve narrowed ( maybe widened) my lock eject issues. In coil test every coil does fire but , it also fires the eject at the same time as another.
Saucer 28 gets ejected two other times and 29 once. I will check all coils for shorts... if anyone knows what this means please let
Me know

There's some strategy to tilting the game and securing your pre-rollover high score as far as getting your name on the high score table... Which is mostly an on-location thing. In the home environment where you can be sure everyone is honest about it, I think setting up a sticky note or 3x5" note card with the rollover+ scores high score table is a good idea. I think this used to be a thing on EM's that did not keep high score tables.

Decided to give robocop’s backbox a freshen up. The cabinet is fairly clean, but the head had slight planking on the one side, and chips and dings all over. So I removed it from the cab. Filled the divets in with extra strong wood filler. Sanded it all down, minus behind the boards and the robocop and data East graphics. Then I painted the inside, front, top and bottom with a small brush and small foam roller. Then I used low tack frisket sheets to cover the robocop and Data east graphics. I then used an exacto blade to trim around all 4 decals , roughly 1/2 a centimetre from their border. Then I roller painted the sides. Before the paint dried I carefully removed the frisket material. Then using a very fine brush I touched up the decals red, black and grey graphics. Then I gave everything a nice even spray of clear coat.
Lots of steps involved, the most I’ve ever done for a paint job, but I’m very happy with how well it’s cleaned up. I’ll post before and after shots.

Before/during:
1F3CFBEB-288D-4A4A-B431-74065521F5A0 (resized).jpegEAE4CB30-B01E-4C6B-A492-0D47A9065D56 (resized).jpeg42FBD264-9691-4E63-A5D9-28EF0361C4AD (resized).jpeg

After attaching frisket material and trimming around graphics:
334E6D9E-3179-453A-BBF4-B7D3DA832C4E (resized).jpeg

End result:
2A5FAFE1-1AC3-40AD-9FF5-7EEE33B3F779 (resized).jpeg9F6C8432-B708-4141-B7C1-6E95F893B77C (resized).jpegC3F8DAC3-CE93-4615-832B-B5221386521F (resized).jpeg64EDEE2B-276E-48F6-A83F-8581BD8B1818 (resized).jpeg575470B5-2AF7-47EE-BBFE-73F9DA3C0AFF (resized).jpeg

If anyone can snap a photo of the ppb
Board. I want to make sure mine is not missing components

For sure, Robocop’s backbox is just sitting beside me. Now I just need to figure out which board is the ppb....

That looks great. I started scrolling from bottom up and thought why is he messing with it, it looks brand new.
If I get mine working I may add this to the my list.

It’s the bord on the bottom... the solenoids plug in. Has a bunch of white resistors ..

Hopefully this helps. If you need closer up shots let me know. Mine was playing fine before I disconnected the head...
E912E089-24B1-4857-BEF6-60903B3F7F51 (resized).jpeg

Not the best photo but this one
I thought it was ppb but I could be wrong

image (resized).jpg

Thanks that’s it... they look the same. Was hoping mine had a missing component

Thanks again

You did a real nice job. Looks very good.

Can some please confirm that their jumpers are the same ? I don’t need a photo just confirmation.
Thanks.

image (resized).jpg

At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, what jumpers? Which board? Is this your PPB? I can go look but need to know where.

Likely It’s me sounding like the idiot with confusing posts

Sorry it’s the mpu. Kind of in the middle/right. I read that there are supposed to be jumper j4 installed and j5 uninstalled for robo but I am confused about the other jumpers. Just trying to rule out someone hadn’t swapped a board from another machine.

I do not see any kind of jumper(s) anywhere on my MPU.

The part number of my board is 520-3003-02. The P/N is located in the upper left of the board.

EDIT: You might sit down and study this link for Rococop repair and troubleshooting. Actually, what I really suggest is that you print every page on this link and load the printed pages into a 3-ring binder. There is. a lot of information in here and when printed it looks like an old time phone book.

I printed this out because I consider it The Source for DE pinball repair and did not want to not have it if the internet disappeared. This well written repair guide took me by the hand and told me how to repair my dead score display unit. It told me what parts I needed and gave part numbers, too.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

topkat my jumpers are the same as your picture.
Joe

OK. I see them now. 2 little bitty wires. I was looking for those pin things you can move. Doh.

Thanks. I have tried reading through that, and it is full of great info. I couldn't find anything directly related to my solenoid issues...but I guess I need to dig deeper into it

topkat
Here’s those pictures you requested.... I think lol.
If I took ones of the wrong connectors let me know. This is j7, j8, and j9 (though j9 was hard to get a decent pic of).

C9E76A32-9402-4343-A97D-683D06C53E01 (resized).jpeg6843BBF7-A96C-46DA-83B7-342050F94EF5 (resized).jpegE05CD15A-A0F2-4DD3-BBB0-780FB7CD5CCE (resized).jpeg

thank you that will help me verify

No problem!
I just finished hooking all my backbox connections back up, and after a quick test run, everything seems to play as it should.
I do have one toasted connection that I’ve known about since before I repainted the backbox, that I hope to replace soon. It’s for part of the translites gi, and the game looks and plays decent without those 8 or so bulbs working, so I’ve been slacking on getting it fixed. Hopefully in the next day or two I’ll tackle it though.

D3BE1131-D90B-4BDA-9051-39B163411EA4 (resized).jpeg

This is a shot in the dark. But if anyone gets a chance ... the ppb board has a relay coil with a small diode right below it, it’s on the upper right.
The diode reads open both directions for me in circuit. When I clip it, it tests good. I am just curious if that’s the norm when it’s in circuit.

I'd buy that for a dollar. I know it's entirely up to your emotional connection to the film, but what seems to be a reasonable price to pay in order to scoop up for one of these? $3K+ if it's mint and shopped out?

Same on all Data East games.... J3&J4---- ROM 5B,5C.

The Robocop with the inlanes that score as they should has a ROM of A-30.

I am going to reinstall my A-29 ROM and see if there are changes

Is anyone still making plastics for this? Mine have seen better days

I need a new set as well.

It did not take this shop very long to sell out when a few sets were made recently.

Sign up for the waiting list.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/robocop-plastics-set/