(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to

By JCJP

9 years ago


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There are 1,953 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 40.
#601 3 years ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Hello everyone. Has anyone had to replace the LED's in Ed 209? One of mine wasn't working. I did have some red led's I'd bought for Williams WPC boards. I put them in and they did work but once I mounted them they don't seem to get too bright. Just wondering if anyone has replaced those and if so with what? Also has anyone had any luck finding the A4.0 code for Robocop? I'd love to try it out and see what the differences are.

About those lights. Someday, I am going to get all new LEDs for my Robocop. I think about those 2-0-9 lights a lot.

I am going to put 4smd LEDs in mine. I want bright. They are far enough back that they should not blind me.

Robocop has a skill shot. But if your Robcop is like mine, you cannot do the skill shot. And I think I have figured out why my Cop was set up as it was. It all goes to the ramp.

For the ramp shot to work, at least one of the prisoners needs to be lit up. If there are no prisoners lit up and you make a ramp shot, it will be rejected.

So, consider, a Robocop is on location, you walk up to play. You do not know what you are doing but you know this game is about that ramp. So, you target the ramp, make the shot, only to get rejected. If you are like me you would be saying WTF ? !!

When I played my Cop, it did not matter how I shot the ball. The ball was going to enter the play field, and go down the "9" of the 2-0-9 lights. When the ball goes down the "9" prisoner Dick Jones is lit up on the first shot. And now the the game is set up to accept a ramp shot and the newbie is none the wiser; And he is happy because remade that ramp shot.
========================================

But Robocop offers skill shots. Those lights at 2-0-9 will blink to tell you where you need to shoot to make the skill shot. Ball 1 skill shot is 100,000 points. Ball 2 is 200,000. And ball 3 is 300,000. If you make all 3 skill shots are you 600,000 points farther along than your opponent.

I modified my Robocop so I can make those 3 skill shots. Therefore, I need those 2-0-9 LEDs blinking bright so I can see them.
===================================

I have the correct clear inlane guides with red posts. I am going to light the posts up with some red post lights from Comet Pinball

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/star-post-lights?_pos=12&_sid=b59421433&_ss=r

Then I will install four 4smd LEDs so I can see which lane to shoot for. These will be blue.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4smd-non-ghosting?_pos=4&_sid=eed81cc2f&_ss=r

My thoughts are that the blue light shining behind the red lights will show up as purple and really standout. That's my plan.

Being able to make the skill shots changes game play. For the better.

#602 3 years ago

Here are a couple of queries.
1. I recently changed my DE flipper bats, the right one was cracked. I provisionally changed the right bat with a generic one until the new set arrived. Shortly after that the left bat started sticking in the up position. I took the assembly off the machine and cleaned it down. I found that the coil sleeves could not be removed. I don't know if some coils come like this or whether they had 'melded' onto the inside of the coil shaft (the right flipper coil was the same).
Anyway I re-installed it and it worked okay. I thought that I would order a couple of new flipper coils and installed them. Now my right flipper VERY occasionally sticks when I am holding a ball in the flipper. I have tested both diodes and they are fine.
2. I also installed black 'Titan' rubbers on the bats and the slingshots. The flipper rubbers are awesome and I would recommend them highly as they do not show any 'flaking' on the sweet spot on the tip like less expensive rubbers do. However the ball would not go down the in-lanes because the rubbers were fatter than normal. I put my old rubbers back on.
Help required!

#603 3 years ago

Different Robocop sound board with the following roms not the slightest difference between the two when it comes to sound dropping out.

Still does it.

20200521_150029 (resized).jpg20200521_150029 (resized).jpg20200521_150036 (resized).jpg20200521_150036 (resized).jpg
#604 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Different Robocop sound board with the following roms not the slightest difference between the two when it comes to sound dropping out.

Still does it.

I'll bet everyone's RoboCop has the same sound dropping issue. It is the fault of the sound ROMs. The sound ROMs for RoboCop are very different in code architecture than the sound ROMs for all other Data East games of the era (before and after). Somebody screwed up the code on the RoboCop sound ROMs. Just pull them up in a hex editor and look for yourself. Specifically, look at the F7 sound ROMs (the 32 KB ones) from RoboCop and compare to F7 sound ROMs from Time Machine, Playboy, Monday Night Football, and Playboy.

If there is anyone out there that does not have this issue then my guess is they have good sound ROMs... so please let us know. We want your RoboCop Sound ROMs!!!

It's a shame that PinSound doesn't work with RoboCop because that would fix this issue.

#605 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

However the ball would not go down the in-lanes because the rubbers were fatter than normal. I put my old rubbers back on.
Help required!

Thehipster Try loosening the posts next to the outlane and make sure they are pushed towards the center. There is usually a little play between the OD of the screw and the ID of the plastic or metal post. Also, pull on the rubber to make sure any slack is on the slingshot arm side.

#606 3 years ago
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

thehipster Try loosening the posts next to the outlane and make sure they are pushed towards the center. There is usually a little play between the OD of the screw and the ID of the plastic or metal post. Also, pull on the rubber to make sure any slack is on the slingshot arm side.

I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. I will let you know how it turns out.

Added over 4 years ago:

UPDATE! - I have moved the slingshot posts and the rubbers are working great. They are far superior to the two sets I have had on it thus far and moving the posts was the most productive 5 minutes of my early pinball life (well that and stumbling across a dangling wire in the back box which turned out to operate two flashers that I never knew that I had). Thanks again for the tip. It will be Titan all round from now on.

#607 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I'll bet everyone's RoboCop has the same sound dropping issue. It is the fault of the sound ROMs. The sound ROMs for RoboCop are very different in code architecture than the sound ROMs for all other Data East games of the era (before and after). Somebody screwed up the code on the RoboCop sound ROMs. Just pull them up in a hex editor and look for yourself. Specifically, look at the F7 sound ROMs (the 32 KB ones) from RoboCop and compare to F7 sound ROMs from Time Machine, Playboy, Monday Night Football, and Playboy.
If there is anyone out there that does not have this issue then my guess is they have good sound ROMs... so please let us know. We want your RoboCop Sound ROMs!!!
It's a shame that PinSound doesn't work with RoboCop because that would fix this issue.

I had nothing to lose aside from a little cash buying the sound board, my ROMS have no version on them and there was a chance these were different. At worst I have an extra sound board that works and with 7 DE machines never hurts to have spares.

#608 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is hard to see much in a photo coming through the computer. The one of the left looks darker and is the one I prefer. The truth will come when you do the print on decal paper. I got two sheets in the mail to you today.
[quoted image]

I'm working on this right now, will go out Tuesday =)

I delayed doing it till had I had some time, what I feared came to pass. Comparing my regular paper prints to the actual plastics the sizes don't agree. It isn't much but enough and very notable with the center piece, I'm going to clean up the image in Photoshop and resize slightly. Off just an 1/8"

#609 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I'm working on this right now, will go out Tuesday =)
I delayed doing it till had I had some time, what I feared came to pass. Comparing my regular paper prints to the actual plastics the sizes don't agree. It isn't much but enough and very notable with the center piece, I'm going to clean up the image in Photoshop and resize slightly. Off just an 1/8"

I am working on getting the colour of my amateur plastics to be the same as all of the original plastics on mine but they are a 'turquoise' colour or 'aquamarine'. I have tried altering the colours on photoshop, lowering the blue and increasing the green and while they look okay on the screen my inkjet printer is having a problem reproducing it both with the printer deciding the colours and with Photoshop deciding the colours.
I think that I am going to have to strip the left side large plastic off the pin and scan it.
I will publish the scan on here to see what you guys think about the original colour. The new manufactured plastics seem to be erring towards more of a mid to darkish-blue colour.
I would like to know if my fellow RC pin owners have the same colour on the other plastics as me.

#610 3 years ago

Nailed it.

I did not think you would mind, I was able to rearrange things a bit and generate an extra set of slingshots for you and 2 plastics for my sons JP with what was leftover.

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#611 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Nailed it.
I did not think you would mind, I was able to rearrange things a bit and generate an extra set of slingshots for you and 2 plastics for my sons JP with what was leftover.
[quoted image]

They look fantastic.

#612 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

They look fantastic.

Since I have a few original plastics I'm considering scanning one in to do a color grab and play around with the images.

#613 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Since I have a few original plastics I'm considering scanning one in to do a color grab and play around with the images.

It would be nice to see if you could get them like the original. I have been making plastics for about three months but it gets a little tiresome on the jigsaw. I am trying different thicknesses of Perspex. I have used 3mm and now I am trying 2mm.

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have. They are probably water jet cut. Or laser cut.

I have added some design changes to mine just to personalize them a little.

I really need to take my scans to a print shop to get some quality printing and clarity or buy a laser printer. They are not expensive but the toner should be renamed liquid gold. I priced a printer at £99 and the toner was £147.

#614 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have

Steel rule cut dies.

#615 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Steel rule cut dies.

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

#616 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

Its a knife cutting technique for large runes. Punch outs, decals, plastic sets, etc,etc,etc.
I had a company make Williams sponge grommets many years ago... They had round dies
to make them and extra material to use up... I wish they where still in business.

#617 3 years ago

Flipper assembly question:-
I have recently changed the coils on my flippers.
Everything is working okay but I have noticed while finding how-tos online that 'normal' flippers have an end of stroke switch and a spring on the side of the pivot arm.
On mine the spring is on the plunger as in the pop bumpers, between the pivot and the coil sleeve and there is no end of stroke switch. Is this correct?

#618 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Flipper assembly question:-
I have recently changed the coils on my flippers.
Everything is working okay but I have noticed while finding how-tos online that 'normal' flippers have an end of stroke switch and a spring on the side of the pivot arm.
On mine the spring is on the plunger as in the pop bumpers, between the pivot and the coil sleeve and there is no end of stroke switch. Is this correct?

Yours is correct. These flippers are called by a different name. I'll have to look in my books but I think it is "deger". These are 50 volt flippers and no EOS switches are used.

Here is the link. There is so much good info in this link for Robocop that I printed every page out for hard copy.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0

Right after I got my Robocop my display went dark. This manual told me what was wrong, and what parts I needed to make the repair.

Don't leave home without it.

#619 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Yours is correct. These flippers are called by a different name. I'll have to look in my books but I think it is "deger". These are 50 volt flippers and no EOS switches are used.
Here is the link. There is so much good info in this link for Robocop that I printed every page out for hard copy.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0
Right after I got my Robocop my display went dark. This manual told me what was wrong, and what parts I needed to make the repair.
Don't leave home without it.

Thank you...…….again

#620 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I fixed that ball that keeps bouncing out of the right hand ball ramp/lane. If you play Robocop you know what I am talking about. Like when you really hammer the ball with the left flipper and the ball bounces out of the saucer and comes back you with out scoring anything. I fixed that.
First, I had to make some mods to the ball stop up at the saucer.
This pic is the un-modded ball stop.
[quoted image]
This is the side view of the ball stop. I had to open up both angles at the bend points. Look closely and you can see some black rubber. It is called dead-drop foam. It is an impact absorbing material.
[quoted image]
Then I had to remove a fairly large area of the stop on its outboard edge.
[quoted image]
Then I had to relocate this ball stop by drilling 2 new holes in the play field. The top 2 holes in this pic are the factory drilled ball stop mounting holes. The 2 lower holes that are sitting at a different angle are holes I drilled. While the dead drop foam absorbed some of the ball impact that still was some problem with bounce outs.
What I was trying to do with these offset holes was to slant the ball stop in such a way that any bounce back would be "pushed" towards the back of the hole for an instant stop.
[quoted image]
Here is the finished installation. The ball stop has been moved toward the saucer so that the ball will hit the dead foam first thing. The offset position pushed the ball towards the back of the hole where is stays until the saucer kicker kicks the ball back onto the play field. If you have cussed that ball for bouncing out and wish for a way to make it stop, the way to make the ball stop dead has arrived.
I .was not sure it would work and was pleasantly surprised after I had an afternoon session with no bounce outs.
[quoted image]
Here is where you can buy the foam. THe shipping is more than the product.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=c6a18417a1d3c1fc358a9203db48163f

I am on the verge of adapting this stop but I cannot find the drop dead foam anywhere (there is no foam on my stop atm). The link you sent is out of stock. I am trying to source something similar. Any ideas? Do you think it will have some impact without the foam if repositioned?

#621 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I am on the verge of adapting this stop but I cannot find the drop dead foam anywhere (there is no foam on my stop atm). The link you sent is out of stock. I am trying to source something similar. Any ideas? Do you think it will have some impact without the foam if repositioned?

I’m thinking that a piece of Scotchbrite might work OK.

Or possibly even a piece of Velcro

Edit: maybe even a piece of felt.

#622 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I’m thinking that a piece of Scotchbrite might work OK.
Or possibly even a piece of Velcro
Edit: maybe even a piece of felt.

Wow! Lucky me. When I stripped the top corner of the playfield I found the original or replacement foam under the 'road' plastic, rammed between an led and a spacer. A friend replaced the lamps with leds about 7 months ago. How did he miss that? Maybe it has worked loose since. I have glued it onto the stop and put the stop in its' original position.
Before I found the foam I had moved the stop forward and drilled the holes but it was worse than before with about 50% ball stopping (this was without modifying the stop).
In it's original position with the foam it has 90% stop rate.
I am going to modify the stop and reposition it tomorrow and see if it gets that magic 100% catch rate.

#623 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Wow! Lucky me. When I stripped the top corner of the playfield I found the original or replacement foam under the 'road' plastic, rammed between an led and a spacer. A friend replaced the lamps with leds about 7 months ago. How did he miss that? Maybe it has worked loose since. I have glued it onto the stop and put the stop in its' original position.
Before I found the foam I had moved the stop forward and drilled the holes but it was worse than before with about 50% ball stopping (this was without modifying the stop).
In it's original position with the foam it has 90% stop rate.
I am going to modify the stop and reposition it tomorrow and see if it gets that magic 100% catch rate.

I did not know foam was installed from the factory. I saw no telltale signs of any adhesive on my stop. If you go back and look at my pictures, you should see the angle I set the stop at to eliminate the bounce backs. When I put that foam on and left the stop in its original placement I still got bounce outs because the impart foam did not work all that well. I even emailed the shop that I got the foam from, voicing my concern. But I never heard back from them; Which does not surprise me.

So, I tried mounting the stop with that little twist to minimize any contact with the ball and the stop. The ball only catches the edge of the stop. And the reason I modded the stop by "tilting" it forward is to try and deflect the ball into a downward move.

Maybe the foam is not needed at all. Maybe just making the twist with the mounting and modding the stop would work just as well. I could try that but what I came up with worked and I moved on to other things. And I don't want the ball slamming into a sharp metal edge all of the time.

--------------------------------------------

I find my self thinking, " Why did Stern / DE not catch this ball bounce action?" I mean, surely Stern play tested the pin, right? And then the conspiracy theorist in me says:

1) The pin was designed for a short life span.

2) It was designed to pick your pocket

3) And a bounce out robs the player of points. A player walks into a bar or a bowling alley, drops a couple of coins, doesn't like the action and moves on. I mean, who is he going to call? Is he going to call the operator? And the operator is going call Stern? Maybe today with these premium priced HUO pins, but not then.

EDIT: I play Robocop a lot. I have had 3 or 4 bounce outs.

#624 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not know foam was installed from the factory. I saw no telltale signs of any adhesive on my stop. If you go back and look at my pictures, you should see the angle I set the stop at to eliminate the bounce backs. When I put that foam on and left the stop in its original placement I still got bounce outs because the impart foam did not work all that well. I even emailed the shop that I got the foam from, voicing my concern. But I never heard back from them; Which does not surprise me.
So, I tried mounting the stop with that little twist to minimize any contact with the ball and the stop. The ball only catches the edge of the stop. And the reason I modded the stop by "tilting" it forward is to try and deflect the ball into a downward move.
Maybe the foam is not needed at all. Maybe just making the twist with the mounting and modding the stop would work just as well. I could try that but what I came up with worked and I moved on to other things. And I don't want the ball slamming into a sharp metal edge all of the time.
--------------------------------------------
I find my self thinking, " Why did Stern / DE not catch this ball bounce action?" I mean, surely Stern play tested the pin, right? And then the conspiracy theorist in me says:
1) The pin was designed for a short life span.
2) It was designed to pick your pocket
3) And a bounce out robs the player of points. A player walks into a bar or a bowling alley, drops a couple of coins, doesn't like the action and moves on. I mean, who is he going to call? Is he going to call the operator? And the operator is going call Stern? Maybe today with these premium priced HUO pins, but not then.
EDIT: I play Robocop a lot. I have had 3 or 4 bounce outs.

Yes I know. I am committed to adapting it. The foam was like the type I have edging my playfield on to the lock bar so probably not on from the factory.

I agree about the short life span and that would explain the small production run of this pin. I sent a linkedin custom message to Joe Kaminkow the other night asking him why the run was short and guess what? Yeah he has not replied lol.
But the short life span theory sort of throws doubt on the manufacturers integrity. I mean surely they want to be the best at what they do and produce the most memorable and playable machines that they can. Or am I being naïve?
I understand the need to produce money makers but it must be counter productive to make the game overly frustrating and impossible to play.
I remember playing STNG and The Addams family in a local pub when they were new to the market and I 'mastered' them both in a short period of time and I loved playing them. My money went a long way on those two pins much to the chagrin of the local pub landlord.

#625 3 years ago

No post

#626 3 years ago

IMG_20200601_220257 (resized).jpgIMG_20200601_220257 (resized).jpg

I am quite pleased with my home made OCP decals and clear pop bumper caps. I like the way you can see the mechanics when the bumpers are operating

#627 3 years ago

For information.

There is a guy on Ebay parting out a Robocop. I don't think he has many parts left. I have had contact with him and bought the left side plastic with the yellow broken target decal and the larger blue plastic part that sits under it. The playfield has gone and the inserts were with it (bummer) but there are some good pieces left. There are none of the most sort after plastics but the right hand plastic and the back plastics are all there. AND ONE RIGHT HAND SLINGSHOT PLASTIC. He is also selling the left hand wire form and a few assemblies with coils like the out-hole coil assembly.

Just search Robocop pinball parts. They are all there.

He seems like a good guy and is closer to most of you guys than me. His prices do not seem unreasonable. I think he is in Florida so the shipping is prohibitive for me in the UK.

#628 3 years ago

I have been messing around with colours on my home made plastics and decided to reverse the original colours from my bought plastics on photoshop. What do you think? Please don't feel the need to comment on my poor tooling. I only started using a jig-saw three months ago.

left slingshot yellow (resized).jpgleft slingshot yellow (resized).jpgright slingshot yellow2 (resized).jpgright slingshot yellow2 (resized).jpg
#629 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I'll bet everyone's RoboCop has the same sound dropping issue. It is the fault of the sound ROMs. The sound ROMs for RoboCop are very different in code architecture than the sound ROMs for all other Data East games of the era (before and after). Somebody screwed up the code on the RoboCop sound ROMs. Just pull them up in a hex editor and look for yourself. Specifically, look at the F7 sound ROMs (the 32 KB ones) from RoboCop and compare to F7 sound ROMs from Time Machine, Playboy, Monday Night Football, and Playboy.
If there is anyone out there that does not have this issue then my guess is they have good sound ROMs... so please let us know. We want your RoboCop Sound ROMs!!!
It's a shame that PinSound doesn't work with RoboCop because that would fix this issue.

Just another data point: just finished bringing a dead DE MPU back to life and testing with Robocop A-35 and the problem is still there. I was not expecting it fix it, just additional info.

#630 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Just another data point: just finished bringing a dead DE MPU back to life and testing with Robocop A-35 and the problem is still there. I was not expecting it fix it, just additional info.

I have posted before on this issue. The only sound on mine that 'drops' is the first rollover (and then they ring every time) on the 209 multiplier lanes unless you hit the skill shot lit lane which gives a fanfare and light show. All of the pop bumper skirt switch sounds work every time as do the in lane sirens and the left hand of the pop bumper rubber slings. Oh and the gun shot flipper sound is not instantaneous it comes after a couple of flips.
I wish there was some way that I could read these chips but it is beyond me. An engineer in the UK is welcome to come read them but I think that they are thin on the ground.

#631 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Just another data point: just finished bringing a dead DE MPU back to life and testing with Robocop A-35 and the problem is still there. I was not expecting it fix it, just additional info.

Quoted from Thehipster:

I have posted before on this issue. The only sound on mine that 'drops' is the first rollover (and then they ring every time) on the 209 multiplier lanes unless you hit the skill shot lit lane which gives a fanfare and light show. All of the pop bumper skirt switch sounds work every time as do the in lane sirens and the left hand of the pop bumper rubber slings. Oh and the gun shot flipper sound is not instantaneous it comes after a couple of flips.
I wish there was some way that I could read these chips but it is beyond me. An engineer in the UK is welcome to come read them but I think that they are thin on the ground.

It sounds like I will need to resign myself to the thinking of how well DE did with managing the technology that was available at the time.

#632 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It sounds like I will need to resign myself to the thinking of how well DE did with managing the technology that was available at the time.

Hopefully ChadH will have the opportunity to examine the sound code where problem lies and fix it sometime in the future.

I was testing the MPU in Robocop since it was originally in one which seemed appropriate and it is the easiest DE in my line up to work in the back box due to its spot in line.

#633 3 years ago

Im in the club! What did i get myself into tho?! Muahahaha

received_690599405108149 (resized).jpegreceived_690599405108149 (resized).jpeg
#634 3 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

What did i get myself into tho

Pure Pinball. Pure speed. Lock 3 balls and hold on.

#635 3 years ago

The broken flap was talked several posts back.

My flap is cracked from being bent/tweaked too many times when the ramp shot is made. I found out I had a problem when the ball would stuck in the left hand ramp and not drop into the "kicker" lane. Apparently, the crack would not allow this ramp to flex and the ball would not drop. I buttressed this cracked area with a couple of washers and the problem went away.

Today, I made the permanent fix so I would not have to worry about it failing again.

You can order some of this thin metal that is used to make ramp entrances. Or can you can use a piece of polycarbonate and PETG plastic to make a replacement.

IMG_3873 (resized).JPGIMG_3873 (resized).JPG

Here is how the multi ball setup works.

1) You make the ramp shot and the ball drops down and this ramp flap flexes and the ball drops down and rolls forward into this open saucer hole you see.

2) This saucer kicks the ball out and into the upper saucer hole ( not shown ). Ball 1 is locked.

3) Another ramp shot and the 2nd ball drops onto this same hole and stays there. Ball 2 is locked.

4) Next, ball 3 will drop down and hit ball 2 and then roll backwards into the VUK. And Muti Ball starts up.

IMG_3866 (resized).JPGIMG_3866 (resized).JPG

Here is another view showing both saucers for Ball 1 and Ball 2 locks. The Molex connector is one I have added to allow for easy removal of the left ramp assembly. Whenever you need to remove the left ramp you will understand the convenience of adding the Molex connector. There is another connector under the play field but DE's way of removal is PIA.

IMG_3870 (resized).JPGIMG_3870 (resized).JPG

I had some spare thin polycarbonate laying around and thought I would see if it would work as a suitable replacement to the metal flap. The polycarbonate does work; I also have some thin PETG and it works well, also.

IMG_3875 (resized).JPGIMG_3875 (resized).JPG

Here is a pic of the left ramp with my piece of plastic installed. I don't know how long this plastic will last in this kind of flexing action but I'm thinking it will go the distance .

IMG_3868 (resized).JPGIMG_3868 (resized).JPG

I have some extra material. If someone has a cracked metal flap and needs a replacement I can help you out. I would need a couple of dollars as I don't have a jig to make multiple copies. It fits in an envelope; The shipping cost would be the price of a postage stamp. I guess $3.00 shipped.

Or I could send you some blank material to make 2 of them for $1.50, and then you make your own.

#636 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Hopefully ChadH will have the opportunity to examine the sound code where problem lies and fix it sometime in the future.
I was testing the MPU in Robocop since it was originally in one which seemed appropriate and it is the easiest DE in my line up to work in the back box due to its spot in line.

Something I noticed while testing yesterday, some of the sounds come and go based on what background music is playing.

#637 3 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

Im in the club! What did i get myself into tho?! Muahahaha
[quoted image]

Welcome.
I got mine last year and didn't know where to start with certain fixes and just general advice. It was my first pin.
You will find great help and advice from the people on this forum. They have been fantastic with their time and patience with me. I can't thank them enough. When I bought the pin I thought that I was buying a playable game (it was sold to me as 'refurbished' from a dealer) but it had so many issues that I had to seek help. They have helped me with electrical and mechanical fixes and have given me the confidence to carry on loving my Robocop and a zest for wanting to own more. It plays well now and I spend at least 4 hours a day either playing it or working on it ( I can only afford this time while in lockdown in the UK). If it wasn't for this forum I would have given up in the early stages. Rock On guys!

#638 3 years ago

Help!
When the random award generator gives POPS3000 the pop bumpers, when hit, light the flashers under the ED209 and in the top left hand corner under the ramp. My top right popper has stopped activating this action at the moment while the other two are fine. It had previously been fine.

I have checked the wiring and everything is in place (nothing loose or missing) and it had been working fine until today.

I had been working on the yellow target switches as two wires had come loose. Could this affect the lack of flasher on the pop bumper?

Have I wired the switches okay (see attached pic)?

switch (resized).jpgswitch (resized).jpg Added over 4 years ago:

I am beginning to think that the right hand popper has never lit the flashers but it just appeared that way when the ball was vigorously bouncing between the three bumpers.

#639 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Yours is correct. These flippers are called by a different name. I'll have to look in my books but I think it is "deger". These are 50 volt flippers and no EOS switches are used.
Here is the link. There is so much good info in this link for Robocop that I printed every page out for hard copy.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0
Right after I got my Robocop my display went dark. This manual told me what was wrong, and what parts I needed to make the repair.
Don't leave home without it.

I have read and re-read this tech help. It is a concise and thorough guide. I have printed it off and I will refer to it on many occasions in the future. The person who compiled it is knowledgeable and intelligent. I take my hat off to them. Anyone who has a Data East game should do the same thing. I have learned so much using this reference.

#640 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Help!
When the random award generator gives POPS3000 the pop bumpers, when hit, light the flashers under the ED209 and in the top left hand corner under the ramp. My top right popper has stopped activating this action at the moment while the other two are fine. It had previously been fine.
I have checked the wiring and everything is in place (nothing loose or missing) and it had been working fine until today.
I had been working on the yellow target switches as two wires had come loose. Could this affect the lack of flasher on the pop bumper?
Have I wired the switches okay (see attached pic)?
[quoted image]

Added yesterday: I am beginning to think that the right hand popper has never lit the flashers but it just appeared that way when the ball was vigorously bouncing between the three bumpers.

How come the wire pair on the bottom looks different the the two upper pairs?

88aa9bed0bb6c6e2dacf20aee846b7fffa6afafd (resized).jpg88aa9bed0bb6c6e2dacf20aee846b7fffa6afafd (resized).jpg

#641 3 years ago

Here is what I would like to have:

With the pops, it seems like when the pops are worth nothing the ball gets trapped inside them and bounces around forever. However, whenever I make the right hand chute and it turns on the 3000 point pops for the big points the ball manages to make 1 or 2 hits and bounces out

OTOH, when I make the right hand chute and the 15 second hurry up where "Everything is lit" lights up, the only thing worth hitting is another run up the chute to get that extra ball. Only this time, the ball gets trapped inside those pops and eats up my 15 seconds of time.

I would like to have some way to turn the pops off so the ball will come to me so I can try to make the hurry up shot.
=====================================================================

I have a computer simulated pinball game called Timeshock. Perhaps some of you have heard of Timeshock and Pro Pinball. Computer games are like cartoons in that they can deny the laws of physics.

Timeshock has a feature when you can press both flippers at the same time and the pops will be disabled. With the pops disabled the ball will fall out and give you time to make your hit.

This is what I would like to have on my Robocop: Some way to disable the pops when the 15 second hurry up is active. I could do some wiring mods and add a third flipper button to disable the pops. I just don't want to make any wiring mods and I don't want to add a third flipper button.

Is there some sort of electronic switch I could buy that would trigger the pops to turn off when I press both flipper buttons?

This is a long shot question. But it does not hurt to ask.

Thanks.

#642 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

How come the wire pair on the bottom looks different the the two upper pairs?
[quoted image]

It must be the angle I have took the shot. They are all the same with live beige to unbanded side of diode and the wire out of the banded side of the diode to the centre lug and the green wires to the rear lug.

#643 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is what I would like to have:
With the pops, it seems like when the pops are worth nothing the ball gets trapped inside them and bounces around forever. However, whenever I make the right hand chute and it turns on the 3000 point pops for the big points the ball manages to make 1 or 2 hits and bounces out
OTOH, when I make the right hand chute and the 15 second hurry up where "Everything is lit" lights up, the only thing worth hitting is another run up the chute to get that extra ball. Only this time, the ball gets trapped inside those pops and eats up my 15 seconds of time.
I would like to have some way to turn the pops off so the ball will come to me so I can try to make the hurry up shot.
=====================================================================
I have a computer simulated pinball game called Timeshock. Perhaps some of you have heard of Timeshock and Pro Pinball. Computer games are like cartoons in that they can deny the laws of physics.
Timeshock has a feature when you can press both flippers at the same time and the pops will be disabled. With the pops disabled the ball will fall out and give you time to make your hit.
This is what I would like to have on my Robocop: Some way to disable the pops when the 15 second hurry up is active. I could do some wiring mods and add a third flipper button to disable the pops. I just don't want to make any wiring mods and I don't want to add a third flipper button.
Is there some sort of electronic switch I could buy that would trigger the pops to turn off when I press both flipper buttons?
This is a long shot question. But it does not hurt to ask.
Thanks.

I like this idea because the short time lapse makes the game even more difficult than it already is (my audits show a 60% hit 'Special' rate).
Because it is my only pin I am getting fairly good at it.
I have it set to hard rules but with an extra ball at the four backup replay levels 3.5m - 4.7m - 6.5m and 9.5m. I also have the 1meg targets at 4 hits (which goes to 5 hits for the second 1meg and then 6 and so on)and the special everything lit at 3 ramps. I have the random hole set to 40% extra balls too. Without this the game is impossible. I might have to go extreme hard rules with no buy-ins to get a true test of the machine as I regularly roll the total.
Incidentally I have never had an 'Everything Lit' award from the random generator only a 'Light Special'.
I never got around to adapting my random lane stop. I was about to start on it when I was shopping for parts and I stumbled across the type of dead stop rubber that you had mentioned before (see pic). It was very inexpensive and in the UK so I thought that I would give it a try. It stays in the hole 99% of the time. Super fast, slow or medium pace.

blue rubbber (resized).jpgblue rubbber (resized).jpg
#644 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I also have the 1meg targets at 4 hits (which goes to 5 hits for the second 1meg and then 6 and so on)and the special everything lit at 3 ramps. I have the random hole set to 40% extra balls too. Without this the game is impossible. I might have to go extreme hard rules with no buy-ins to get a true test of the machine as I regularly roll the total.

You make me thing I am missing something. I have mine set to "factory rules". I tried "easy rules" and turned that off after a couple of minutes. I have n to tried "hard rules" as the game kicks my ass regularly with factory rules. But everything else you mention is lost to me. What is the "random hole", for example?

EDIT: What shop did you buy the dead stop rubber from? I might like to try it. As you have read, I bought some dead stop rubber for mine but it did not seem to work all that good and to reposition my ball stop to improve my bounce outs.

#645 3 years ago

My WOZ has the ability of disabling the pop bumpers when you press both flipper buttons.
I don't know how but we might look through the manual for some ideas on how it works.

#646 3 years ago
Quoted from Lilpro66:

My WOZ has the ability of disabling the pop bumpers when you press both flipper buttons.
I don't know how but we might look through the manual for some ideas on how it works.

That would be way cool. We'll check it out.

#647 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You make me thing I am missing something. I have mine set to "factory rules". I tried "easy rules" and turned that off after a couple of minutes. I have n to tried "hard rules" as the game kicks my ass regularly with factory rules. But everything else you mention is lost to me. What is the "random hole", for example?
EDIT: What shop did you buy the dead stop rubber from? I might like to try it. As you have read, I bought some dead stop rubber for mine but it did not seem to work all that good and to reposition my ball stop to improve my bounce outs.

The random hole is what I call the top right lane hole because it randomly generates awards.

I don't know if you are aware of the following but...…..
With the green service button in the up position switch the machine on and press the black button once. Factory altered will appear on the dot matrix. Put the green button in the down position and press the black button twice. The first press will show AD55 Factory Restore the second press shows AD16 High Score Reset on the screen. Return the green button to the up position and press the black button again and you will see AD17 Expand Adjustments. Press the start game button and you will have the access to the finer adjustments such as set replay levels and setting the 1meg target to however many target hits (green, yellow or red) you need to light it. The same goes for the amount of ramp shots you need to light the special light. I am pretty sure that you can alter the time allowed to get to the special ramp shot to make it a little more reasonable.
You can also set the target level and the spinner if I am not mistaken from easy to hard and the same with the re-light laser kick from easy to hard (I assume 'hard' will be more than one hit on the channel ball).
You can also set what type of award you would like for hitting the replay scores and for getting the 'special'. There is extra ball, certificate or credit (and the amount of credits can be altered in here too. So you can refine you gameplay. I just use trial and error.
If you did not know about these then you are going to be in for a pleasant surprise.

By the way, the next time you get a Pops3000 award would you take a look at the pop bumpers and see if they all light the top left hand flashers when hit as only two of mine do it.

Here is the link to one of my preferred suppliers in the UK for the rubber.
https://www.pinball.co.uk/spares-accessories/blue-bumper-pad-23-6629/

#648 3 years ago

Replied instead of editing my own post sorry.

#649 3 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

If you did not know about these then you are going to be in for a pleasant surprise.

1) Thanks for the good instructions.

2) I am aware of all the extra adjustments. I just got lazy and went with factory rules and did not pay much attention. Maybe I need to mix my Robocop up a bit.

3) Thanks for the link. I will have to see if they ship to the states. And it will be a $2.00 item and $20.00 shipping

#650 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

1) Thanks for the good instructions.
2) I am aware of all the extra adjustments. I just got lazy and went with factory rules and did not pay much attention. Maybe I need to mix my Robocop up a bit.
3) Thanks for the link. I will have to see if they ship to the states. And it will be a $2.00 item and $20.00 shipping

cottonm4 marco has that rubber https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6629 I have also seen this used before for dead stop rubber
ebay.com link: i

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