(Topic ID: 94507)

ROBOCOP Club if you own one or use to


By JCJP

5 years ago



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  • 626 posts
  • 75 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Thehipster
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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There are 626 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 16 days ago
Quoted from Bay78:

Hello everyone. Has anyone had to replace the LED's in Ed 209? One of mine wasn't working. I did have some red led's I'd bought for Williams WPC boards. I put them in and they did work but once I mounted them they don't seem to get too bright. Just wondering if anyone has replaced those and if so with what? Also has anyone had any luck finding the A4.0 code for Robocop? I'd love to try it out and see what the differences are.

About those lights. Someday, I am going to get all new LEDs for my Robocop. I think about those 2-0-9 lights a lot.

I am going to put 4smd LEDs in mine. I want bright. They are far enough back that they should not blind me.

Robocop has a skill shot. But if your Robcop is like mine, you cannot do the skill shot. And I think I have figured out why my Cop was set up as it was. It all goes to the ramp.

For the ramp shot to work, at least one of the prisoners needs to be lit up. If there are no prisoners lit up and you make a ramp shot, it will be rejected.

So, consider, a Robocop is on location, you walk up to play. You do not know what you are doing but you know this game is about that ramp. So, you target the ramp, make the shot, only to get rejected. If you are like me you would be saying WTF ? !!

When I played my Cop, it did not matter how I shot the ball. The ball was going to enter the play field, and go down the "9" of the 2-0-9 lights. When the ball goes down the "9" prisoner Dick Jones is lit up on the first shot. And now the the game is set up to accept a ramp shot and the newbie is none the wiser; And he is happy because remade that ramp shot.
========================================

But Robocop offers skill shots. Those lights at 2-0-9 will blink to tell you where you need to shoot to make the skill shot. Ball 1 skill shot is 100,000 points. Ball 2 is 200,000. And ball 3 is 300,000. If you make all 3 skill shots are you 600,000 points farther along than your opponent.

I modified my Robocop so I can make those 3 skill shots. Therefore, I need those 2-0-9 LEDs blinking bright so I can see them.
===================================

I have the correct clear inlane guides with red posts. I am going to light the posts up with some red post lights from Comet Pinball

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/star-post-lights?_pos=12&_sid=b59421433&_ss=r

Then I will install four 4smd LEDs so I can see which lane to shoot for. These will be blue.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4smd-non-ghosting?_pos=4&_sid=eed81cc2f&_ss=r

My thoughts are that the blue light shining behind the red lights will show up as purple and really standout. That's my plan.

Being able to make the skill shots changes game play. For the better.

#602 14 days ago

Here are a couple of queries.
1. I recently changed my DE flipper bats, the right one was cracked. I provisionally changed the right bat with a generic one until the new set arrived. Shortly after that the left bat started sticking in the up position. I took the assembly off the machine and cleaned it down. I found that the coil sleeves could not be removed. I don't know if some coils come like this or whether they had 'melded' onto the inside of the coil shaft (the right flipper coil was the same).
Anyway I re-installed it and it worked okay. I thought that I would order a couple of new flipper coils and installed them. Now my right flipper VERY occasionally sticks when I am holding a ball in the flipper. I have tested both diodes and they are fine.
2. I also installed black 'Titan' rubbers on the bats and the slingshots. The flipper rubbers are awesome and I would recommend them highly as they do not show any 'flaking' on the sweet spot on the tip like less expensive rubbers do. However the ball would not go down the in-lanes because the rubbers were fatter than normal. I put my old rubbers back on.
Help required!

#603 13 days ago

Different Robocop sound board with the following roms not the slightest difference between the two when it comes to sound dropping out.

Still does it.

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#604 13 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Different Robocop sound board with the following roms not the slightest difference between the two when it comes to sound dropping out.

Still does it.

I'll bet everyone's RoboCop has the same sound dropping issue. It is the fault of the sound ROMs. The sound ROMs for RoboCop are very different in code architecture than the sound ROMs for all other Data East games of the era (before and after). Somebody screwed up the code on the RoboCop sound ROMs. Just pull them up in a hex editor and look for yourself. Specifically, look at the F7 sound ROMs (the 32 KB ones) from RoboCop and compare to F7 sound ROMs from Time Machine, Playboy, Monday Night Football, and Playboy.

If there is anyone out there that does not have this issue then my guess is they have good sound ROMs... so please let us know. We want your RoboCop Sound ROMs!!!

It's a shame that PinSound doesn't work with RoboCop because that would fix this issue.

#605 12 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

However the ball would not go down the in-lanes because the rubbers were fatter than normal. I put my old rubbers back on.
Help required!

thehipster Try loosening the posts next to the outlane and make sure they are pushed towards the center. There is usually a little play between the OD of the screw and the ID of the plastic or metal post. Also, pull on the rubber to make sure any slack is on the slingshot arm side.

#606 12 days ago
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

thehipster Try loosening the posts next to the outlane and make sure they are pushed towards the center. There is usually a little play between the OD of the screw and the ID of the plastic or metal post. Also, pull on the rubber to make sure any slack is on the slingshot arm side.

I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. I will let you know how it turns out.

Added 12 days ago:

UPDATE! - I have moved the slingshot posts and the rubbers are working great. They are far superior to the two sets I have had on it thus far and moving the posts was the most productive 5 minutes of my early pinball life (well that and stumbling across a dangling wire in the back box which turned out to operate two flashers that I never knew that I had). Thanks again for the tip. It will be Titan all round from now on.

#607 10 days ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I'll bet everyone's RoboCop has the same sound dropping issue. It is the fault of the sound ROMs. The sound ROMs for RoboCop are very different in code architecture than the sound ROMs for all other Data East games of the era (before and after). Somebody screwed up the code on the RoboCop sound ROMs. Just pull them up in a hex editor and look for yourself. Specifically, look at the F7 sound ROMs (the 32 KB ones) from RoboCop and compare to F7 sound ROMs from Time Machine, Playboy, Monday Night Football, and Playboy.
If there is anyone out there that does not have this issue then my guess is they have good sound ROMs... so please let us know. We want your RoboCop Sound ROMs!!!
It's a shame that PinSound doesn't work with RoboCop because that would fix this issue.

I had nothing to lose aside from a little cash buying the sound board, my ROMS have no version on them and there was a chance these were different. At worst I have an extra sound board that works and with 7 DE machines never hurts to have spares.

#608 10 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It is hard to see much in a photo coming through the computer. The one of the left looks darker and is the one I prefer. The truth will come when you do the print on decal paper. I got two sheets in the mail to you today.
[quoted image]

I'm working on this right now, will go out Tuesday =)

I delayed doing it till had I had some time, what I feared came to pass. Comparing my regular paper prints to the actual plastics the sizes don't agree. It isn't much but enough and very notable with the center piece, I'm going to clean up the image in Photoshop and resize slightly. Off just an 1/8"

#609 10 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I'm working on this right now, will go out Tuesday =)
I delayed doing it till had I had some time, what I feared came to pass. Comparing my regular paper prints to the actual plastics the sizes don't agree. It isn't much but enough and very notable with the center piece, I'm going to clean up the image in Photoshop and resize slightly. Off just an 1/8"

I am working on getting the colour of my amateur plastics to be the same as all of the original plastics on mine but they are a 'turquoise' colour or 'aquamarine'. I have tried altering the colours on photoshop, lowering the blue and increasing the green and while they look okay on the screen my inkjet printer is having a problem reproducing it both with the printer deciding the colours and with Photoshop deciding the colours.
I think that I am going to have to strip the left side large plastic off the pin and scan it.
I will publish the scan on here to see what you guys think about the original colour. The new manufactured plastics seem to be erring towards more of a mid to darkish-blue colour.
I would like to know if my fellow RC pin owners have the same colour on the other plastics as me.

#610 10 days ago

Nailed it.

I did not think you would mind, I was able to rearrange things a bit and generate an extra set of slingshots for you and 2 plastics for my sons JP with what was leftover.

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#611 10 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Nailed it.
I did not think you would mind, I was able to rearrange things a bit and generate an extra set of slingshots for you and 2 plastics for my sons JP with what was leftover.
[quoted image]

They look fantastic.

#612 10 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

They look fantastic.

Since I have a few original plastics I'm considering scanning one in to do a color grab and play around with the images.

#613 10 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Since I have a few original plastics I'm considering scanning one in to do a color grab and play around with the images.

It would be nice to see if you could get them like the original. I have been making plastics for about three months but it gets a little tiresome on the jigsaw. I am trying different thicknesses of Perspex. I have used 3mm and now I am trying 2mm.

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have. They are probably water jet cut. Or laser cut.

I have added some design changes to mine just to personalize them a little.

I really need to take my scans to a print shop to get some quality printing and clarity or buy a laser printer. They are not expensive but the toner should be renamed liquid gold. I priced a printer at £99 and the toner was £147.

#614 9 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Also it is impossible to get the finish that the manufactured ones have

Steel rule cut dies.

#615 8 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Steel rule cut dies.

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

#616 8 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Just had to search online to find out what a steel rule die was and it looks industrial. Are they a flexible/interchngeable steel system that you make the shape you require with or is it more complicated than that?

Its a knife cutting technique for large runes. Punch outs, decals, plastic sets, etc,etc,etc.
I had a company make Williams sponge grommets many years ago... They had round dies
to make them and extra material to use up... I wish they where still in business.

#617 8 days ago

Flipper assembly question:-
I have recently changed the coils on my flippers.
Everything is working okay but I have noticed while finding how-tos online that 'normal' flippers have an end of stroke switch and a spring on the side of the pivot arm.
On mine the spring is on the plunger as in the pop bumpers, between the pivot and the coil sleeve and there is no end of stroke switch. Is this correct?

#618 8 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Flipper assembly question:-
I have recently changed the coils on my flippers.
Everything is working okay but I have noticed while finding how-tos online that 'normal' flippers have an end of stroke switch and a spring on the side of the pivot arm.
On mine the spring is on the plunger as in the pop bumpers, between the pivot and the coil sleeve and there is no end of stroke switch. Is this correct?

Yours is correct. These flippers are called by a different name. I'll have to look in my books but I think it is "deger". These are 50 volt flippers and no EOS switches are used.

Here is the link. There is so much good info in this link for Robocop that I printed every page out for hard copy.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0

Right after I got my Robocop my display went dark. This manual told me what was wrong, and what parts I needed to make the repair.

Don't leave home without it.

#619 8 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Yours is correct. These flippers are called by a different name. I'll have to look in my books but I think it is "deger". These are 50 volt flippers and no EOS switches are used.
Here is the link. There is so much good info in this link for Robocop that I printed every page out for hard copy.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0
Right after I got my Robocop my display went dark. This manual told me what was wrong, and what parts I needed to make the repair.
Don't leave home without it.

Thank you...…….again

#620 4 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I fixed that ball that keeps bouncing out of the right hand ball ramp/lane. If you play Robocop you know what I am talking about. Like when you really hammer the ball with the left flipper and the ball bounces out of the saucer and comes back you with out scoring anything. I fixed that.
First, I had to make some mods to the ball stop up at the saucer.
This pic is the un-modded ball stop.
[quoted image]
This is the side view of the ball stop. I had to open up both angles at the bend points. Look closely and you can see some black rubber. It is called dead-drop foam. It is an impact absorbing material.
[quoted image]
Then I had to remove a fairly large area of the stop on its outboard edge.
[quoted image]
Then I had to relocate this ball stop by drilling 2 new holes in the play field. The top 2 holes in this pic are the factory drilled ball stop mounting holes. The 2 lower holes that are sitting at a different angle are holes I drilled. While the dead drop foam absorbed some of the ball impact that still was some problem with bounce outs.
What I was trying to do with these offset holes was to slant the ball stop in such a way that any bounce back would be "pushed" towards the back of the hole for an instant stop.
[quoted image]
Here is the finished installation. The ball stop has been moved toward the saucer so that the ball will hit the dead foam first thing. The offset position pushed the ball towards the back of the hole where is stays until the saucer kicker kicks the ball back onto the play field. If you have cussed that ball for bouncing out and wish for a way to make it stop, the way to make the ball stop dead has arrived.
I .was not sure it would work and was pleasantly surprised after I had an afternoon session with no bounce outs.
[quoted image]
Here is where you can buy the foam. THe shipping is more than the product.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=131&zenid=c6a18417a1d3c1fc358a9203db48163f

I am on the verge of adapting this stop but I cannot find the drop dead foam anywhere (there is no foam on my stop atm). The link you sent is out of stock. I am trying to source something similar. Any ideas? Do you think it will have some impact without the foam if repositioned?

#621 4 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I am on the verge of adapting this stop but I cannot find the drop dead foam anywhere (there is no foam on my stop atm). The link you sent is out of stock. I am trying to source something similar. Any ideas? Do you think it will have some impact without the foam if repositioned?

I’m thinking that a piece of Scotchbrite might work OK.

Or possibly even a piece of Velcro

Edit: maybe even a piece of felt.

#622 4 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I’m thinking that a piece of Scotchbrite might work OK.
Or possibly even a piece of Velcro
Edit: maybe even a piece of felt.

Wow! Lucky me. When I stripped the top corner of the playfield I found the original or replacement foam under the 'road' plastic, rammed between an led and a spacer. A friend replaced the lamps with leds about 7 months ago. How did he miss that? Maybe it has worked loose since. I have glued it onto the stop and put the stop in its' original position.
Before I found the foam I had moved the stop forward and drilled the holes but it was worse than before with about 50% ball stopping (this was without modifying the stop).
In it's original position with the foam it has 90% stop rate.
I am going to modify the stop and reposition it tomorrow and see if it gets that magic 100% catch rate.

#623 4 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Wow! Lucky me. When I stripped the top corner of the playfield I found the original or replacement foam under the 'road' plastic, rammed between an led and a spacer. A friend replaced the lamps with leds about 7 months ago. How did he miss that? Maybe it has worked loose since. I have glued it onto the stop and put the stop in its' original position.
Before I found the foam I had moved the stop forward and drilled the holes but it was worse than before with about 50% ball stopping (this was without modifying the stop).
In it's original position with the foam it has 90% stop rate.
I am going to modify the stop and reposition it tomorrow and see if it gets that magic 100% catch rate.

I did not know foam was installed from the factory. I saw no telltale signs of any adhesive on my stop. If you go back and look at my pictures, you should see the angle I set the stop at to eliminate the bounce backs. When I put that foam on and left the stop in its original placement I still got bounce outs because the impart foam did not work all that well. I even emailed the shop that I got the foam from, voicing my concern. But I never heard back from them; Which does not surprise me.

So, I tried mounting the stop with that little twist to minimize any contact with the ball and the stop. The ball only catches the edge of the stop. And the reason I modded the stop by "tilting" it forward is to try and deflect the ball into a downward move.

Maybe the foam is not needed at all. Maybe just making the twist with the mounting and modding the stop would work just as well. I could try that but what I came up with worked and I moved on to other things. And I don't want the ball slamming into a sharp metal edge all of the time.

--------------------------------------------

I find my self thinking, " Why did Stern / DE not catch this ball bounce action?" I mean, surely Stern play tested the pin, right? And then the conspiracy theorist in me says:

1) The pin was designed for a short life span.

2) It was designed to pick your pocket

3) And a bounce out robs the player of points. A player walks into a bar or a bowling alley, drops a couple of coins, doesn't like the action and moves on. I mean, who is he going to call? Is he going to call the operator? And the operator is going call Stern? Maybe today with these premium priced HUO pins, but not then.

EDIT: I play Robocop a lot. I have had 3 or 4 bounce outs.

#624 4 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I did not know foam was installed from the factory. I saw no telltale signs of any adhesive on my stop. If you go back and look at my pictures, you should see the angle I set the stop at to eliminate the bounce backs. When I put that foam on and left the stop in its original placement I still got bounce outs because the impart foam did not work all that well. I even emailed the shop that I got the foam from, voicing my concern. But I never heard back from them; Which does not surprise me.
So, I tried mounting the stop with that little twist to minimize any contact with the ball and the stop. The ball only catches the edge of the stop. And the reason I modded the stop by "tilting" it forward is to try and deflect the ball into a downward move.
Maybe the foam is not needed at all. Maybe just making the twist with the mounting and modding the stop would work just as well. I could try that but what I came up with worked and I moved on to other things. And I don't want the ball slamming into a sharp metal edge all of the time.
--------------------------------------------
I find my self thinking, " Why did Stern / DE not catch this ball bounce action?" I mean, surely Stern play tested the pin, right? And then the conspiracy theorist in me says:
1) The pin was designed for a short life span.
2) It was designed to pick your pocket
3) And a bounce out robs the player of points. A player walks into a bar or a bowling alley, drops a couple of coins, doesn't like the action and moves on. I mean, who is he going to call? Is he going to call the operator? And the operator is going call Stern? Maybe today with these premium priced HUO pins, but not then.
EDIT: I play Robocop a lot. I have had 3 or 4 bounce outs.

Yes I know. I am committed to adapting it. The foam was like the type I have edging my playfield on to the lock bar so probably not on from the factory.

I agree about the short life span and that would explain the small production run of this pin. I sent a linkedin custom message to Joe Kaminkow the other night asking him why the run was short and guess what? Yeah he has not replied lol.
But the short life span theory sort of throws doubt on the manufacturers integrity. I mean surely they want to be the best at what they do and produce the most memorable and playable machines that they can. Or am I being naïve?
I understand the need to produce money makers but it must be counter productive to make the game overly frustrating and impossible to play.
I remember playing STNG and The Addams family in a local pub when they were new to the market and I 'mastered' them both in a short period of time and I loved playing them. My money went a long way on those two pins much to the chagrin of the local pub landlord.

#625 4 days ago

No post

#626 2 days ago

IMG_20200601_220257 (resized).jpg

I am quite pleased with my home made OCP decals and clear pop bumper caps. I like the way you can see the mechanics when the bumpers are operating

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