We had the same problems at our game, even after rebuilding the flipper mech's. Looking at the Original flyer (listed at IPDB.ORG), we noticed the flipperbats are adjusted a little bit downwards. Adjusting the flipperbats like this was the solution for our game; it made making the ramp shot more easy.

Looking at the whitewood picture from designer John Trudeau at IPDB.ORG: did anyone notice the whitewood had 4 flippers installed (revealing the Sindbad roots)?

Marco

Like this, as pictured on the flyer, the lower side in line with the ball guide which makes the bat pointing down a bit. Usually, I align the heart of the flipper bat or the upper side in line with the ball guide. At our Robo War this didn't work out well for making the ramp shot.

1975f2_crop (resized).jpg

This will certainly help too. Gottlieb used brass amp connectors to attach the wiring to those switches. Sometime they are broken causing a loose connection. Removing these connectors and soldering the wires directly to the switch leaves can be a big improvement too.

If you shorted the solenoid voltage to the switchmatrix circuitry there will be a few TTL gates blown and if you have bad luck also the U4 RIOT. Happens often when messing around with the flippermechs while the game is powered on - lanechange switch and EOS are stacked.......

It will be less expensive as a new board. If your Original board is in a nice condition and not affected by a leaking battery or lousy repairs in the past, I would keep using this board and repair it or send it out for repair. I prefer Original boards above after market ones, but okay, this is my personal preference.

I like mypinballs system 80B after market board. A redesigned PCB with a way better lay out.

http://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

Still, I prefer to use Original boards.

The soundboard has 2 sections. One is dialing with the sound effects and the other one takes care of the background music (Y and D section). Maybe one of the Eprom's is bad. I coded a testrom in order to test those boards. You will need some insight in electronics but you are free to try it. Send me a PM with your emailaddress and I will send you the images.

Marco

Hmmm....another groundmod. Don't use the heatsink as a common plane for the Ground. You are not improving your game with this but creating a potential short. The heatsink is barely isolated from the 5V. Just by a thin shim as the metal casing of the LM338 regulator is the 5V output. Use the yellow strap right below in the backbox in stead as a common for GND. Gottlieb used plastic washers to isolate the heatsink from the foil (=GND) in the backbox. And there is a reason to do so.

T switches the playfield illumination and should be closed by default. When the relay is activated, the contact should open. The switch stack is mounted to the relay in the wrong way and should be turned so the lever opens the contact when the relay is activated.