1. Check fuse F10 (2.5A slow blow)
2. Check the 2N5879 transistor (Q3). They are known to go bad. Use diode test function and compare to another under-playfield 5879 transistor.
3. Check the coil. The 2 coil circuit resistances should be 2.8 & 40 ohms (it's a flipper coil).
4. Check the switch next to the coil mechanism to make sure it works and it making/breaking contact to the coil.

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So I had a problem with mine, it was resetting. Previous owner had done some repairs on the mpu including new riot chips.
I worked out that it would only reset when going through the spinner randomly, could 2 mins or 20 mins which was weird. Pulled the spinner out and never reset again.
I disconnected most of the boards and would still reset. I put it down to a problem with the riot chip on the switch matrix and maybe reset circuit.
Luckily myPinballs built a new MPU board for me and fixed a new Boston Pinball’s 5v board that was faulty.
Fitted them in yesterday and now working perfectly.

If you are having issues with the MPU I can highly recommend one, he is applejuice on here or search myPinballs.

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Took me 3-1/2 years of talking with the lady that owned this. She never let me come look at it. She said she wanted to fix it, the left flipper stopped working. I told her I would fix for free over the years but she ghosted me on each occasion. She texted me out of the blue the other day, asked if I was still interested in buying. I said yes of course. She had a bout with cancer and was needing money for bills and Christmas. I gave her a lot more than I wanted to, but, it's Christmas. My 14 yr old son and I will enjoy our first project together. Got it home and opened it up, no keys so the drill had to come out. Backbox keys were there. Lockbar was stuck hard. Sand and grit impeded the removal of the playfield glass with a screech that lasted a long time. Thankfully someone before 2000 decided it was a good idea to put memory caps in place of batteries. She said it played so I took the chance and fired it up. game started with bright displays, ball kicked out, plunged ball, all switches and solenoids worked and scored correctly! Left flipper was dead like she said. Raised playfield to find the wire hanging off the flipper switch. Couldn't be this easy. Yep. Now to strip playfield and clean up as well as we can, apply some wax and play while debating further restoration. Pics will show paint flaking in spots may have to learn how to touch up. Will post our progress starting after Christmas.

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Great story! Welcome to the war!

Yep for sure, love hearing the various stories of how Pinsiders
got their games. Sorry she had to sell it due to health concerns though.

That game looks like it has excellent bones. It sounds like the changing of hands was a win-win, and I’m glad it’s going to be cared for moving forward. Good luck with it!

merry X-mas,
i know the fuse is good, the coil is good,
ill check the switch and q3 toninght
thanks for the awnser

I know this has been addressed in the past, but does anyone have this one plastic for the right sling? I would hate to buy a whole set for the one. Or can anyone here send me a scan of a good one? thanks! [email protected]

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Did you ever sort it out?

Have to try and repin some of the connectors. A couple of the wires came loose a while back so could someone please take a pic of this connector so i know where the wires go ?

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I’m currently restoring a RoboWar. Just finished repining everything.

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Thanks for the pics

Trying to restore the translite of my RW. It has a very faded translite.

So i removed is and sticked it to the kitchen window.. so the light could come trough and i make a high quality picture.
But disaster.. the translite fell off, to the ground. And because of its age the plastic is not as bendable anymore... it broke in 10 pieces
So i taped it all together, and gently put it back where it belongs.

The pictures i had made where not suitable to print out.
Looking on the internet i found a copy being printed bij a company advertising via Etsy.

I received it today.... and see for yourself..
not suitable to use...

My question , has anyone a translite for sale, or is there a high quality picture that i can use to print out??
please PM.

happy Easter and regards

Ferry

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Man that’s bad luck.
The guy I bought mine from sent my translite to https://www.retrorefurbs.com/ who did a high quality scan and was supposed to be making these but I tried to contact him with no luck through his website and pinballinfo UK forum. Maybe if you try it might help him to reproduce them. A few people have had no luck with him replying. His name is Pete I think.

Got mine from Marco .

thanks for the tips...
retrofurbs has got a message ..
And Marco.. do not have them anymore. Have sent them a message over a year ago.

but tips are appreciated ..

FTN

I got a brand-new repro Robo-War translite from Mayfair Amusements about a year ago. They should have one for you.

http://www.mayfairamusement.com/translig.html

Thanks for the toptip!
Ordered it , and got it.
Looks great !!
Posted a before and after foto. HUGE smile..
It's an original, and for those who are still looking for a RW translite, the Mayfair still have them !!

One step closer to finishing the RW
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No problem @FTN_Ferry. Looks like a great start to a nice Gottlieb collection!

There's currently a TX Sector for sale about 2 hours south of me near Trier if you want to add the best Gottlieb ever made

BTW: I got my new LED tubes a few days ago and will be installing them soon. Thanks for that tip!

Who has a Robo War they want to sell me???

Good day it is still a mystery q3 is new,resistance is good, coil is new, continuty on wire is good. leaf are good. did i mix up when i resolder wire?
is it possible to get a good picture of the wire order to the coil?
thnks

@cybercid, have you checked the EOS switch that controls the operation of that ramp lift coil? Are the contacts of the switch in good shape there? You probably already know, but one side should be normally open and the other normally closed. Just thinking of the obvious stuff before digging deeper. Heres a few photos of mine so you can compare wiring.

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Hello so… wirering is good, coil is good resistance is good, followed wire conductivity is good, replace by new Q3. F10 fuse is good. EOS switch good when manually flip light on playfield tested with meter one open one closed. All ground mods done.So now restarted at self test… coil is not responding! I am wondering if my problem could be on my driver board? I’ll try to switch my driver board from tag team tomorrow. Thanks

On the red violet violet side, should be +24v dc (put your neg led on the metal casing of the transformer housing) . If this is so, then the coil should activate if you connect the red yellow yellow to GND.
If it does... your problem is in the wiring or transistor. If it is not probably the coil or diode could be a problem.

If it works, with a manual gnd connected, try to find out if the pin 1 2A16p1/j1 connected to pin 10 activates your coil. If it does the Q3 is probably bad... or a connection problem from Q3 to 2A16p1/j1 pin 9 ..
Hope it helps in your quest..
FTN_Ferry

cybercid Did you ever find the problem?

My new translite arrived today from Mayfair, very nice.

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@Lostcause.. she will be so much prettier
Tip .. also change the fluorescent light for a led . Than the coulours will stay

FTN_Ferry

Been thinking about parting with my RW. What's a good asking price nowadays for a clean machine?

A nice one has to be around €2500 but who knows these days. I bought mine last year for £1500 but had to fit a new mpu (myPinballs), 5v-12v board and a new translite and is a very nice one. They rarely come up.

Do you also think fluorescent tube emits uv to fade translite, I was saying this to someone who had a new translite and no sunlight in room but it looked not as vivid as my new one. Mine has 2 led lamps in the centre on the left and right, I need to fit an led tube for better light coverage.

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Yes, fluorescent tubes will fade them over time. I always convert mine to LED tubes before I install NOS translites.

Attached are what my NOS translites look like with LED tubes behind them.

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Nicely lit, love a bad girl!

Where are you located?

Gangelt, Germany

Wish i would have seen this post a week ago. I was dealing with the same thing, I racked my brain for days trying to figure it out.

Is "converting" to an LED light tube simply replacing it with the correct sized LED tube? Or do you cut out the ballast and starter, etc?

The LED tubes I used were a direct replacement. Didn't have to pull the ballast or starter out.

So is the LED tube the only lighting mod that people have done?

I think it depends on the kind. JodyG has a good write up for the conversion over in the system 1-80B club thread. That kind requires the ballast and starter to be removed.

Anyone have some cool custom apron cards they could share?

I second this

Fitted an LED batten the other day, unclips for quick removal.

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This is the type I used.

93098373 TUNGSRAM
LED lights; cold white; G13; 220 / 240VAC; 2385lm; 15W; 200 °; 6500K

https://www.tme.eu/de/details/93098373/lichtquellen-beleuchtung/tungsram/

This is the best option I think, was fitted with the original screws and gets rid of all that old fluorescent running gear. Clips on so easily taken off.
Very easy to fit and cheap.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-single-2ft-led-batten-white-8w-920lm/6704x

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Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War. I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. I got the game non working and had to replace Z11-15 and replaced U4. Anyone had this happen?

Anybody looking to sell this title? Please Pm me

RGarriott I currently have the same issue with my RW. I think I am being awarded an extra ball for getting the high score...and somehow my game is not saving the high score data, so I end up getting a high score on each and every game. I haven't spent the time to research the issue. It seems I have a similar issue on my TX Sector so maybe it is a DIP setting or in a menu somewhere. I'll try and look into it in the next few days, but lemme know what you find.

I have vaca coming up and am going to work on this. My plan is to just set all dips off and go from there. Ill report back.