(Topic ID: 176823)

Robo-War Fan Club (all welcome)

By seshpilot

4 years ago


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  • 450 posts
  • 66 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by RGarriott
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders

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There are 450 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 9.
#401 10 months ago
Quoted from cybercid:

Hello year it does not work in self test and in play. The lower relay is working. The main coil is not activating. Could it be the wirering?[quoted image]

1. Check fuse F10 (2.5A slow blow)
2. Check the 2N5879 transistor (Q3). They are known to go bad. Use diode test function and compare to another under-playfield 5879 transistor.
3. Check the coil. The 2 coil circuit resistances should be 2.8 & 40 ohms (it's a flipper coil).
4. Check the switch next to the coil mechanism to make sure it works and it making/breaking contact to the coil.

20201206_190921 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#402 10 months ago

So I had a problem with mine, it was resetting. Previous owner had done some repairs on the mpu including new riot chips.
I worked out that it would only reset when going through the spinner randomly, could 2 mins or 20 mins which was weird. Pulled the spinner out and never reset again.
I disconnected most of the boards and would still reset. I put it down to a problem with the riot chip on the switch matrix and maybe reset circuit.
Luckily myPinballs built a new MPU board for me and fixed a new Boston Pinball’s 5v board that was faulty.
Fitted them in yesterday and now working perfectly.

If you are having issues with the MPU I can highly recommend one, he is applejuice on here or search myPinballs.

4A3A5B66-65DD-469B-B29B-BDBA5602EFA8 (resized).jpeg

#403 10 months ago

Well I'm stumped. The solenoid for the ball hole kicker (multiball) isn't working. The fuse is fine and the coil seems fine. Because of Gottlieb's crazy 100s of boards approach to building games at the time, I can't seem to find which transistor to check. Can anybody help?

PS: Yes, all ground mods done and everything else. Just can't find the transistor for this one.

#404 10 months ago

Found it. I plugged in one of the plugs on the Diode Board upside down, where there was only 2 of the 5 diodes plugged in. Ugh....Gottlieb and all their freaking extra boards.

#405 10 months ago

Took me 3-1/2 years of talking with the lady that owned this. She never let me come look at it. She said she wanted to fix it, the left flipper stopped working. I told her I would fix for free over the years but she ghosted me on each occasion. She texted me out of the blue the other day, asked if I was still interested in buying. I said yes of course. She had a bout with cancer and was needing money for bills and Christmas. I gave her a lot more than I wanted to, but, it's Christmas. My 14 yr old son and I will enjoy our first project together. Got it home and opened it up, no keys so the drill had to come out. Backbox keys were there. Lockbar was stuck hard. Sand and grit impeded the removal of the playfield glass with a screech that lasted a long time. Thankfully someone before 2000 decided it was a good idea to put memory caps in place of batteries. She said it played so I took the chance and fired it up. game started with bright displays, ball kicked out, plunged ball, all switches and solenoids worked and scored correctly! Left flipper was dead like she said. Raised playfield to find the wire hanging off the flipper switch. Couldn't be this easy. Yep. Now to strip playfield and clean up as well as we can, apply some wax and play while debating further restoration. Pics will show paint flaking in spots may have to learn how to touch up. Will post our progress starting after Christmas.

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#406 10 months ago
Quoted from Kennebunk:

Took me 3-1/2 years of talking with the lady that owned this. She never let me come look at it. She said she wanted to fix it, the left flipper stopped working. I told her I would fix for free over the years but she ghosted me on each occasion. She texted me out of the blue the other day, asked if I was still interested in buying. I said yes of course. She had a bout with cancer and was needing money for bills and Christmas. I gave her a lot more than I wanted to, but, it's Christmas. My 14 yr old son and I will enjoy our first project together. Got it home and opened it up, no keys so the drill had to come out. Backbox keys were there. Lockbar was stuck hard. Sand and grit impeded the removal of the playfield glass with a screech that lasted a long time. Thankfully someone before 2000 decided it was a good idea to put memory caps in place of batteries. She said it played so I took the chance and fired it up. game started with bright displays, ball kicked out, plunged ball, all switches and solenoids worked and scored correctly! Left flipper was dead like she said. Raised playfield to find the wire hanging off the flipper switch. Couldn't be this easy. Yep. Now to strip playfield and clean up as well as we can, apply some wax and play while debating further restoration. Pics will show paint flaking in spots may have to learn how to touch up. Will post our progress starting after Christmas.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great story! Welcome to the war!

#407 10 months ago

Yep for sure, love hearing the various stories of how Pinsiders
got their games. Sorry she had to sell it due to health concerns though.

#408 10 months ago

That game looks like it has excellent bones. It sounds like the changing of hands was a win-win, and I’m glad it’s going to be cared for moving forward. Good luck with it!

#409 10 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

1. Check fuse F10 (2.5A slow blow)
2. Check the 2N5879 transistor (Q3). They are known to go bad. Use diode test function and compare to another under-playfield 5879 transistor.
3. Check the coil. The 2 coil circuit resistances should be 2.8 & 40 ohms (it's a flipper coil).
4. Check the switch next to the coil mechanism to make sure it works and it making/breaking contact to the coil.
[quoted image]

merry X-mas,
i know the fuse is good, the coil is good,
ill check the switch and q3 toninght
thanks for the awnser

1 month later
#410 8 months ago

I know this has been addressed in the past, but does anyone have this one plastic for the right sling? I would hate to buy a whole set for the one. Or can anyone here send me a scan of a good one? thanks! [email protected]

robo-war-plastic (resized).jpg
#411 8 months ago
Quoted from cybercid:

merry X-mas,
i know the fuse is good, the coil is good,
ill check the switch and q3 toninght
thanks for the awnser

Did you ever sort it out?

1 month later
#412 6 months ago

Have to try and repin some of the connectors. A couple of the wires came loose a while back so could someone please take a pic of this connector so i know where the wires go ?

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#413 6 months ago

I’m currently restoring a RoboWar. Just finished repining everything.

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#414 6 months ago
Quoted from Vandy89:

I’m currently restoring a RoboWar. Just finished repining everything.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the pics

#415 6 months ago

Trying to restore the translite of my RW. It has a very faded translite.

So i removed is and sticked it to the kitchen window.. so the light could come trough and i make a high quality picture.
But disaster.. the translite fell off, to the ground. And because of its age the plastic is not as bendable anymore... it broke in 10 pieces
So i taped it all together, and gently put it back where it belongs.

The pictures i had made where not suitable to print out.
Looking on the internet i found a copy being printed bij a company advertising via Etsy.

I received it today.... and see for yourself..
not suitable to use...

My question , has anyone a translite for sale, or is there a high quality picture that i can use to print out??
please PM.

happy Easter and regards

Ferry

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#416 6 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Trying to restore the translite of my RW. It has a very faded translite.
So i removed is and sticked it to the kitchen window.. so the light could come trough and i make a high quality picture.
But disaster.. the translite fell off, to the ground. And because of its age the plastic is not as bendable anymore... it broke in 10 pieces
So i taped it all together, and gently put it back where it belongs.
The pictures i had made where not suitable to print out.
Looking on the internet i found a copy being printed bij a company advertising via Etsy.
I received it today.... and see for yourself..
not suitable to use...
My question , has anyone a translite for sale, or is there a high quality picture that i can use to print out??
please PM.
happy Easter and regards
Ferry[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man that’s bad luck.
The guy I bought mine from sent my translite to https://www.retrorefurbs.com/ who did a high quality scan and was supposed to be making these but I tried to contact him with no luck through his website and pinballinfo UK forum. Maybe if you try it might help him to reproduce them. A few people have had no luck with him replying. His name is Pete I think.

#417 6 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Trying to restore the translite of my RW. It has a very faded translite.
So i removed is and sticked it to the kitchen window.. so the light could come trough and i make a high quality picture.
But disaster.. the translite fell off, to the ground. And because of its age the plastic is not as bendable anymore... it broke in 10 pieces
So i taped it all together, and gently put it back where it belongs.
The pictures i had made where not suitable to print out.
Looking on the internet i found a copy being printed bij a company advertising via Etsy.
I received it today.... and see for yourself..
not suitable to use...
My question , has anyone a translite for sale, or is there a high quality picture that i can use to print out??
please PM.
happy Easter and regards
Ferry[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Got mine from Marco .

#418 6 months ago

thanks for the tips...
retrofurbs has got a message ..
And Marco.. do not have them anymore. Have sent them a message over a year ago.

but tips are appreciated ..

FTN

1 week later
#419 6 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

My question , has anyone a translite for sale

I got a brand-new repro Robo-War translite from Mayfair Amusements about a year ago. They should have one for you.

http://www.mayfairamusement.com/translig.html

1 month later
#420 5 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I got a brand-new repro Robo-War translite from Mayfair Amusements about a year ago. They should have one for you.
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/translig.html

Thanks for the toptip!
Ordered it , and got it.
Looks great !!
Posted a before and after foto. HUGE smile..
It's an original, and for those who are still looking for a RW translite, the Mayfair still have them !!

One step closer to finishing the RW
20210519_211652.jpg

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#421 5 months ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Thanks for the toptip!

No problem FTN_Ferry. Looks like a great start to a nice Gottlieb collection!

There's currently a TX Sector for sale about 2 hours south of me near Trier if you want to add the best Gottlieb ever made

BTW: I got my new LED tubes a few days ago and will be installing them soon. Thanks for that tip!

#422 5 months ago

Who has a Robo War they want to sell me???

1 week later
#423 4 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Did you ever sort it out?

Good day it is still a mystery q3 is new,resistance is good, coil is new, continuty on wire is good. leaf are good. did i mix up when i resolder wire?
is it possible to get a good picture of the wire order to the coil?
thnks

#424 4 months ago
Quoted from cybercid:

Good day it is still a mystery q3 is new,resistance is good, coil is new, continuty on wire is good. leaf are good. did i mix up when i resolder wire?
is it possible to get a good picture of the wire order to the coil?
thnks

cybercid, have you checked the EOS switch that controls the operation of that ramp lift coil? Are the contacts of the switch in good shape there? You probably already know, but one side should be normally open and the other normally closed. Just thinking of the obvious stuff before digging deeper. Heres a few photos of mine so you can compare wiring.

20210531_190037 (resized).jpg20210531_190220 (resized).jpg
#425 4 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

cybercid, have you checked the EOS switch that controls the operation of that ramp lift coil? Are the contacts of the switch in good shape there? You probably already know, but one side should be normally open and the other normally closed. Just thinking of the obvious stuff before digging deeper. Heres a few photos of mine so you can compare wiring.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hello so… wirering is good, coil is good resistance is good, followed wire conductivity is good, replace by new Q3. F10 fuse is good. EOS switch good when manually flip light on playfield tested with meter one open one closed. All ground mods done.So now restarted at self test… coil is not responding! I am wondering if my problem could be on my driver board? I’ll try to switch my driver board from tag team tomorrow. Thanks

#426 4 months ago
Quoted from cybercid:

Hello so… wirering is good, coil is good resistance is good, followed wire conductivity is good, replace by new Q3. F10 fuse is good. EOS switch good when manually flip light on playfield tested with meter one open one closed. All ground mods done.So now restarted at self test… coil is not responding! I am wondering if my problem could be on my driver board? I’ll try to switch my driver board from tag team tomorrow. Thanks

On the red violet violet side, should be +24v dc (put your neg led on the metal casing of the transformer housing) . If this is so, then the coil should activate if you connect the red yellow yellow to GND.
If it does... your problem is in the wiring or transistor. If it is not probably the coil or diode could be a problem.

If it works, with a manual gnd connected, try to find out if the pin 1 2A16p1/j1 connected to pin 10 activates your coil. If it does the Q3 is probably bad... or a connection problem from Q3 to 2A16p1/j1 pin 9 ..
Hope it helps in your quest..
FTN_Ferry

3 weeks later
#427 4 months ago
Quoted from cybercid:

I’ll try to switch my driver board from tag team tomorrow. Thanks

cybercid Did you ever find the problem?

1 week later
#428 3 months ago

My new translite arrived today from Mayfair, very nice.

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2 weeks later
#429 3 months ago

Lostcause.. she will be so much prettier
Tip .. also change the fluorescent light for a led . Than the coulours will stay

FTN_Ferry

3 weeks later
#430 73 days ago

Been thinking about parting with my RW. What's a good asking price nowadays for a clean machine?

#431 72 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Been thinking about parting with my RW. What's a good asking price nowadays for a clean machine?

A nice one has to be around €2500 but who knows these days. I bought mine last year for £1500 but had to fit a new mpu (myPinballs), 5v-12v board and a new translite and is a very nice one. They rarely come up.

#432 72 days ago
Quoted from FTN_Ferry:

Lostcause.. she will be so much prettier
Tip .. also change the fluorescent light for a led . Than the coulours will stay
FTN_Ferry

Do you also think fluorescent tube emits uv to fade translite, I was saying this to someone who had a new translite and no sunlight in room but it looked not as vivid as my new one. Mine has 2 led lamps in the centre on the left and right, I need to fit an led tube for better light coverage.

297E6BDD-F3C5-4143-9083-8414631273E7 (resized).jpeg
#433 72 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Do you also think fluorescent tube emits uv to fade translite, I was saying this to someone who had a new translite and no sunlight in room but it looked not as vivid as my new one. Mine has 2 led lamps in the centre on the left and right, I need to fit an led tube for better light coverage.[quoted image]

Yes, fluorescent tubes will fade them over time. I always convert mine to LED tubes before I install NOS translites.

Attached are what my NOS translites look like with LED tubes behind them.

IMG_6945 (resized).JPG
#434 72 days ago

Nicely lit, love a bad girl!

#435 72 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Been thinking about parting with my RW. What's a good asking price nowadays for a clean machine?

Where are you located?

#436 72 days ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Where are you located?

Gangelt, Germany

1 month later
#437 33 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Found it. I plugged in one of the plugs on the Diode Board upside down, where there was only 2 of the 5 diodes plugged in. Ugh....Gottlieb and all their freaking extra boards.

Wish i would have seen this post a week ago. I was dealing with the same thing, I racked my brain for days trying to figure it out.

#438 33 days ago

Is "converting" to an LED light tube simply replacing it with the correct sized LED tube? Or do you cut out the ballast and starter, etc?

#439 33 days ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Is "converting" to an LED light tube simply replacing it with the correct sized LED tube? Or do you cut out the ballast and starter, etc?

The LED tubes I used were a direct replacement. Didn't have to pull the ballast or starter out.

#440 33 days ago

So is the LED tube the only lighting mod that people have done?

#441 33 days ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Is "converting" to an LED light tube simply replacing it with the correct sized LED tube? Or do you cut out the ballast and starter, etc?

I think it depends on the kind. JodyG has a good write up for the conversion over in the system 1-80B club thread. That kind requires the ballast and starter to be removed.

#442 33 days ago

Anyone have some cool custom apron cards they could share?

#443 33 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Anyone have some cool custom apron cards they could share?

I second this

#444 33 days ago

Fitted an LED batten the other day, unclips for quick removal.

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#445 33 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I think it depends on the kind. JodyG has a good write up for the conversion over in the system 1-80B club thread. That kind requires the ballast and starter to be removed.

This is the type I used.

93098373 TUNGSRAM
LED lights; cold white; G13; 220 / 240VAC; 2385lm; 15W; 200 °; 6500K

https://www.tme.eu/de/details/93098373/lichtquellen-beleuchtung/tungsram/

#446 33 days ago

This is the best option I think, was fitted with the original screws and gets rid of all that old fluorescent running gear. Clips on so easily taken off.
Very easy to fit and cheap.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-single-2ft-led-batten-white-8w-920lm/6704x

69E2296E-48B0-408F-8C75-A71B3534234D (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#447 20 days ago

Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War. I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. I got the game non working and had to replace Z11-15 and replaced U4. Anyone had this happen?

2 weeks later
#448 3 days ago

Anybody looking to sell this title? Please Pm me

#449 3 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War. I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. I got the game non working and had to replace Z11-15 and replaced U4. Anyone had this happen?

RGarriott I currently have the same issue with my RW. I think I am being awarded an extra ball for getting the high score...and somehow my game is not saving the high score data, so I end up getting a high score on each and every game. I haven't spent the time to research the issue. It seems I have a similar issue on my TX Sector so maybe it is a DIP setting or in a menu somewhere. I'll try and look into it in the next few days, but lemme know what you find.

#450 2 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

RGarriott I currently have the same issue with my RW. I think I am being awarded an extra ball for getting the high score...and somehow my game is not saving the high score data, so I end up getting a high score on each and every game. I haven't spent the time to research the issue. It seems I have a similar issue on my TX Sector so maybe it is a DIP setting or in a menu somewhere. I'll try and look into it in the next few days, but lemme know what you find.

I have vaca coming up and am going to work on this. My plan is to just set all dips off and go from there. Ill report back.

There are 450 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 9.

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