.....So today Ive rememberd that I pulled up the ramp as I was cleaning the playfield under the ramp a lot before adding the protector. So Ive compared the look of my actual ramp with some deatailed images Ive done before working on the playfield. Ive discovered that my ramp looked different at the beginning of the ramp and at the middle of the ramp. So I bend the ramp so that it looks like on my photos again. And what could I say.....I couldnt get up the ramp anymore ...even when I shot perfectly out of motion. So I removed the stronger spring again! Also after adding the lot more weaker original flipper spring I couldnt get up the ramp anymore! So I decreasaed the steepnes too a bit. Wow! Now it works without a stronger spring and only with a tiny little bit steeper ülayfield compared to the steepnes it had before ading the protector.

Looks like Ive bended the ramp a lot too much in upper direction when I cleaned the area under the ramp. After cleaning I recognized that the ramp entry stays above the playfield, because I bend it too much. So I bend down only the front of the ramp down, so that it has contact to the playfield again. Bending only the front down caused a overall less steeper way up the ramp. Because Ive added the protector after cleaning I thought that the problem of shooting the ramp up too easy comes in general from the added protector. But now I know that my wrong bended ramp was the main problem

So if someone add a protector in the future....it should be enough to only increase the steepness of the playfield a tiny little bit to have the same difficult ramp action again as on a playfield without a protector.

Gameplay feels now like playing on a unprotected playfield with the exception that it feels a bit more "buttery" as before. So the feeling is a tiny little bit different. But this difference is nearly not noticeable at all. Could also be a bit an placebo effect because the playfield is a lot more quiet as before now. My robo war had a very buttery feeling even before adding the protector. I dont know how to explain it......feeled a bit like an EM. When I play a system 11 for a time and change after that to my gottlieb its a totally different smoother feeling. Like hitting a steelball (rollergames) compared to hitting a softball (robo war)

Would be interesting if this smoothness was also noticale when the machine was new back then or it comes from years of playing. But I noticed this smoothness also at other gottlieb machines too.....I think they are build like this and is a leftover from times of the gottlieb EM-period.

Solved.

Connectors connectors connectors on these Gottliebs. Went back and cleaned the connectors and wiggled the wires and boom we have sound again.

Hey guys got a question. I had a cr2025 battery button installed but seems to loose high scores after about a wk or so of not turning the game on. I had a extra weebly 5101 nvram so I decided to install it. Once the old chip was taken out verified all traces were good, everything looks good. Installed the nvram game turns on everything is good except the sound. I lost my sounds. Game plays normal and also saves scores with the old battery taken but no sounds.

Anyone got an idea?

This is the first Gottlieb I’ve owned and the butteryness (not a word) for me is the drop targets. I haven’t investigated how or why at this point, but man these are just next level. No bricks or airballs and smooth resets all day. I’m sorry @rgarriott, I’m not familiar with 80bs but I’m sure someone here or the Gottlieb 80b thread can steer you in the right direction.

Maybe you have to go through the settings and clear the NVRAM/reset the settings to default ?
There might be some garbage data in there that confuses the machine.

Since I have owned my Robowar the Alpha II lamp has not worked. I have replaced the transistor on the board only for it to go out again. Well I finally decided to dig in and find the issue. I bought some new lamp sockets to replace the old Alpha II and replace the transistor again on the driver board. I replaced the transistor on the driver and desoldered the socket from the PF. While I was checking out the old socket I noticed a solder blob making a bridge at the bottom of the socket. Looks as if someone had the PF standing up making repairs and dripped alittle solder from above.

Good lesson learned on checking out all aspects of the circuit and also its a good idea to place some kind of towel or other means in place while soldering in the upright position.

I’m in the process of restoring my RoboWar. Just got the playfield back in the cabinet today and I’m left with this connector A9-P8. I can’t find A9-J8 that should be it’s pair. Does it exist or is this unused in this game?

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I can look here in a bit but it definitely goes to somewhere.

I solved the mystery. It goes to the light strip!

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+1 to join the club! Still tons of work to do as the previous owner decided to glue a photo print in the playfield (very bad quality print). If someone can sell me one vinyl printed or send me the file to print it I would appreciate a lot.

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Welcome to the club. I know there are more in this group who have done some playfield changing. I know that DuffyArcade has done a remake of his playfield. He made a series of YouTube video's (

)
So maybe that info will help out.

FTN_Ferry

I have noticed an issue with my game, if I dont turn it on and play it for a few days to a wk, The high scores start to drop off. I had a button battery installed, I installed a nvram thinking this would fix the issue but it has not. Any ideas?

I have the same issue. Have never fixed it but I believe this might be DIP switch related.

Keep it. You’ll regret selling it. The secrete is out and prices are creeping up so if you ever decide you want it back—assuming you can find a copy as nice as your current one (or at all), you’ll be paying a premium.

I just acquired a project machine missing the boards could someone tell me which boards I'm going to need?

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Following

For the backbox You’ll need:

— MA-774 System 80B MPU and associated piggy back board (A1)

—Auxiliary Power Supply (which is also the audio amplifier) (A5)

—Driver Board (A3)

— MA-886 Sound Board (A6)

For the cabinet (assuming they’re missing), you’ll need:

— The resistor board (A13)
—Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board (A11)

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Thank you!!!

I pit up the wrong pic here's my bb

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I put up the wrong pic

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Isnt there a small reset board at the top right? Or am i mistaken?

There is, but those reset boards are completely unnecessary in the home environment and cause more problems than they’re worth. General convention is to just pull and toss those boards in any system 80b game.

Cool, thanks

Hi , I am restoring my Robo-war ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robowar-restoration-attempt-#post-7081377 ) . I would be grateful if someone could send me a scan of the lower left hand side yellow long stripe , since I am missing those little black curvy lines that can be seen on the right hand side.
I am also putting this in the restoration section of pinside

Thanks in advance

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What color should the cabinet legs be ? I can see that some pinballs have black legs while others have silver ( steel ) . Is there a kind of a theme ?

Legs should be silver on Robo War.

Join Wormhole pinball tonight Monday Dec 19th at 7:30pm Central as we stream Robo-War!

We’ll be hosting a single elimination knock out tournament to determine - Ender’s Game style - who will save humanity! … er… (more likely with this bunch…) buy us a few more minutes!

https://twitch.tv/wormholepinball

Hy,

I want to check/adjust my set-up. I assume you measure the incline straight on the playing field and not on the glass? The manual states 5.5 to 6 degrees. Any tips? thanx, Wobbe

Correct. Measure incline on the playfield. Setting incline is a subjective thing, so you can go steeper if you want a faster/more challenging game. Just make sure it's not so steep that the left ramp is impossible to make, but also don't make it too shallow where the ball can be shot up the ramp too easily. You shouldn't really be able to make the ramp shot from a cradled ball. That would make the game too easy.

The manual suggests to have the front leg adjusters all the way down and the back at 3". I find this setting a little to slow on ball play. I have mine set to where you can only make the ramp shot on a rolling ball as mbaumle has stated in his post.

thanx you both for the fast reply. I have trouble with droptarget Alpha 3. When you shoot the targets down, the green light stays on so it does not move over to alpha 2. It was working fine, but since I have been doing some work on the The Robowar it stopped working. Any suggestions what I need to look at or adjust in the droptarget? Many thanx in advance.

You need to start by verifying if any of the drop switches are working.

Additionally, I’ve found that 80B games are particularly sensitive to dirty switches. Make sure they’re clean too.

Also Make sure the one wire that goes across all 3 switches has good soldered connections.

You should clean and check all drop switches of that bank. check with a continuity meter and make sure that when the contacts touch there is continuity.
I had the same problem with one of the banks ( Alpha one) . Even when the contacts closed continuity was inconsistent . I had to use 600 sandpaper to flatten the contacts and then 800 , 1000 , 1500 . Now it works faultlessly.

I have just finished restoring my Robowar.
What a game !!!

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Browsing this thread is pure pinball porn. Following.

I have just finished restoring my Robowar.
What a game !!!

Wauw it looks great! Good work.

Thanx for the advice everybody. I took it out, cleaned the contacts en had to adjust one. Now it works fine.

Awe man! Enjoy your Metallica! I don’t think I could ever bring myself to part with my Robo-War. They’re rare enough where it would be a one way street for me. I’d never find one in as good a shape as mine for a good price.

Could someone please take some good pics of their coin door wiring ?
Mine has some hacks from previous owner that i need to correct.

I took these prior to my restoration.

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Thanks for the pics

i got a robo war project not long ago and am finally digging into it, it was missing most boards, hacked wires all over and the works.
To start , Is the coin door slam switch N.O. or N.C.?

From page 3 of the Robowar manual ...

F. SLAM MODE
1. If the normally closed slam switch (Located inside front door) is opened , the entire game is ended for all players.

the manual may be incorrect. it is wrong about certain dips etc, doesn't tell that it can use 2 different displays (mine uses ma-999 with 2 molex connectors), i want someone who owns one to look at theirs if they can. also the one under play field on this is N.O. on this one...

i need D Rom and Y Rom for my sound board. where can i get these from? Thx

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/gottlieb-game-or-sound-prom-eprom-gals-p-2802.html

PM so that I can send them to you