Wife says I'm in...she says I better get it
Quoted from Drewblood419:
Should be 200 LE and 300 standards.....
The reason for 300 as explained by Spooky is that's the licensing agreement and it has a 3 year expiration. At their current manufacturing capacity, they're only able to reasonably accomplish 100 games a year. They are 'hoping' to ramp that up, but are being cautious as they don't want to promise what they can't ALREADY deliver. They are avoiding the Skit-B/Jpop model of making promises they can't currently keep.
Quoted from Rarehero:
Absolutely amazing that in light of recent events, people are ready to throw money at a game that they haven't even seen yet. No Playfield design or art has been shown! That's Jpop logic all over again, and I'm surprised Spooky announced it in this vague way.
On one hand it's Charlie, we know he's a stand up guy and can build games. However, AMH was Ben's design/programming. This one isn't. We have no idea what it's going to be until theres a proper reveal. Until that point, slow down guys ....
You're making assumptions not in evidence....Charlie just posted in the other thread. They are not taking money currently...they're opposed to the preorder model as much as the rest of us. At some point they will require a 1000 down payment but from what I'm reading that'll be after a game is complete.
Rob Zombie seems to be over the top in all his endeavors from music to movies...even his appearances on shows like Counts Kustoms he is a force. I think it's a good thing to be a part of this license as I imagine with his name tied to it he's going to drive spooky to over achieve and go over the top. Not that spooky wasn't capable of doing that anyway, but with zombie involved I see extra incentive. And Robs a pinball guy so he understands what's good and what isn't.
Quoted from labnip:
so you're saying there's a chance for more than 300 ?
That remains to be seen...what's been said by Charlie is that they negotiated a license of 300 units that expires in 3 years. They don't have carte Blanche to produce as many as they want or we want. Based on current production capability they felt 300 units in 3 years was realistic. They haven't yet produced 150 amh so I for one appreciate their conservatism.
Quoted from Neal_W:
My bad. Was there a similar reason why AMH was limited?
First game and they don't have the production capacity to produce multiple games concurrently...and I'm sure they wanted to strike while the iron was hot so to speak on a licensed pin. Also don't forget it took awhile even at 150 for amh to sell out. So it was time to move on. These are just my opinions based on what I've read and have no inside knowledge.
I emailed that night at 9:05pm EDT and she responded exactly 38 minutes later that I was in for an LE. Not sure that helps anyone, but just a point of reference that emailing for an LE is the route to go.
Quoted from Damonator:
But what if all 150 AMH buyers want an LE? Or what if 51 want an LE?
What if someone that signs up for the LE wants the non LE art after the designs are unveiled?
Or what if 25 AMH owners want the LE, and only 15 others want it? Then Spooky gets left holding the bag. Because as I understand it, they had to pay an upfront fee to the artist to commission 50 BGs...it's not like pay as you go.
Now granted, as the buzz grows that's not a likely scenario, BUT, remember it took a long time to sell out AMH, and those were just regulars. Spooky is doing the best they can to forecast demand, and 50 LE's with upfront money to the artist is what they prognosticated. I signed up for an LE, not because of exclusivity, but to give myself the option between art choices. I may yet opt back to the regular if the alternate art isn't to my liking, and many other AMH owners in line might do the same. It's way early in the game, and all these shoulda/woulda/coulda guesses are just that...guesses. Spooky themselves have no way of knowing how many actual LE's at the end of the day will be bought, but I think 16.6% of total was a pretty good shot in the dark. I'm sure they could have forgone the LE option and just have everyone pay 6500 for the choice of A) or B), since the artist gets paid no matter how many of either is ordered, but I'm glad they kept the lesser priced option.
I'll echo what everyone else has said for the reason I'm purchasing a rz. Spooky is an option outside of Stern that I trust to deliver. That coupled with my game room theme of mostly horror and rock it fits in perfect...lastly and most important the wife begged me to get it and I reluctantly agreed so I get retribution later...to quote whitey ford "if i do the lending she does the bending"...that's my story and I'm sticking to it
Quoted from frolic:
How's this for an idea, out of fairness to existing AMH owners.... extend the LE offer to July 4th as planned, but not limit it to 50 for AMH owners.
So, say 80 AMH owners want the LE and say so before July 4, all of them can get one, and the 30 machines is reduced from the 250 regulars (now 220 regulars available). So you are still making the 300.
It's likely no non-AMH owners will get an LE, but that is the reward for the early adopters.
Because the 50 LE's is an upfront cost/contract with the artist and likely already negotiated. That's what I gathered reading between the lines. I'm not in the industry so I don't know how artists work, but it sounds like they negotiate X amount for Y units....Not X amount per unit infinitely. In otherwords, it's 5K for a print that spooky is allowed to produce up to 50 LE backglasses. Not $100 per backglass for as many as you want.
Not saying contracts can't be renegotiated, but it's not as cut/dry as it appears. In addition to the artist, there is also the license from Rob Zombie to consider. He may have stipulated only 50 also, since it involves the dragula which is under a separate license.
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:
Really... we never dreamed that 1 out of 3 AMH customers would jump on a Rob Zombie game. But they did... and then some. Lesson learned.
The July 4th was the date we'd release any remaining LE's to non AMH customers... it's a non issue because there are far more than 50 AMH customers who'd like an LE. You can jump on the standard list now, and I suggest you email email@example.com quickly.
Let's face it, at 300 units the entire run is an LE. Again, the playfield and features are NO different. No extra toys, modes, etc... just a little extra bling.
Once we show the playfield and art, deposit of $1,000 confirms your game, NOTHING more until your game is done. You've got a couple months at my best estimate. Games we hope to start shipping right after the 1st of the year. As in 2016... not 2017, 2018, or 2025.
Doing our best. We aren't perfect but we are honest.
Will the extra bling consist of Rob's signature anywhere? Just curious, as it makes no difference to me either way.
They tried to have BG ready for Colorado. I've heard they would like to reveal BG at SFGE next weekend. Don't know if that's still in the cards and if that's the LE, the regular or both. I haven't heard an ETA on the PF.
Quoted from TheCreature:
Hi there. Was talking to my wife about getting a Rob Zombie pinball. Was telling her about AMH selling out and the limited runs. I know it JUST sold out, but does anybody know what the resale market for an AMH can fetch right now? Above original asking price? Are there even AMH's for sale out there or is everybody holding on to theirs? Thanks!
I've seen 4 for sale, but I think three of them were pre-sales....in otherwords buy the place in line. And those sold for no loss, AFAIK. I bought one of them before they sold out just to help out a pinsider, and got a little discount to offset shipping. The fourth one I'm not sure if it was out of box or not...it was a few months ago and it sold within the day.
For now if you can find someone to give up their spot you could probably pay the original 5995. You might even be able to work out a deal with an AMH owner that's near the end of the line...they could use their spot to buy Zombie, then sell you their AMH if they didn't want two spooky pins.
Quoted from ZenTron:
The more I think about it offering the LE was just a bad idea.
Spooky was trying to reward a customer base that had it not been there, the Rob Zombie pin wouldn't exist at all. So instead of complaining about the lack of LE's, which by the way is just different art, not different gameplay, applaud the AMH customers that took the leap and made Spooky and RZ possible in the first place.
I'm personally in for the LE, but I could give two shits about the exclusivity. The ONLY reason I signed up for one is an option of art. Since the gameplay is the same, if the art isn't significantly different or to my liking, I may choose the standard in the end. I'm sure many others on the initial 50 feel the same. I think that's what Charlie was trying to communicate in his story about initial AMH sales. There were plenty of people who talked big before the commitment of money. But once the deposits were required....crickets. I expect some of the same attrition for RZ, both standard and LE.
Quoted from ZenTron:
They didn't appear to have a survey and collect feedback on who out of the 150 AMH customers would want an LE so they are rewarding just 50, what if 68 want one? The 18 are just out of luck? You see, this makes no sense and isnt fair.
I understand your point, but I think you also missed mine...the last couple of sentences anyway. A poll would have been meaningless, just as the AMH initial interest list disappeared when it was time to step up. It's easy to say I want one, when there's no skin in the game. So, Spooky takes a poll and 150 say they want one. They then have to pay the artist a negotiated price for a print to screen 150 BG's. Then suddenly, 150 don't step up to the plate, and Spooky has to eat the cost. That's difficult for a boutique company to absorb. So they have to err on the side of caution or do nothing at all. I understand where "nothing at all" would have been a viable option too, but whether I get an LE or not, I'm glad they gave a choice to some.
As excited as I am about the possibilities of this game with Alex horley art, zombie music and a horror theme at the end of the day it has to be fun to play. If the action is anything like the zombie pin in the video I too would be ruluctantly out. Otherwise I could achieve the same package with a Horley poster and a zombie CD for much cheaper.
I understand spooky wanting to inject some randomness into the game and punishment for bad shots but of the three balls plunged in that video there were a total of seven touches before a drain...that's not even enough time to make a bad shot.
I'm hoping for maybe a drop bank in between those bumpers or a bash toy...if it's left wide open with the ability of the pops to send balls toward the slings for outlane drains or sdtm then imo Spooky will have squandered a great theme and taken a step back from AMH.
Quoted from iceman44:
If you go back and actually read what Charlie said, they significantly changed the layout, toys, flow, etc.....not "minor tweaks".
I've read both threads entirely. Please illuminate us because what I hear from people in the know is contrary to what you say.
Quoted from Aurich:
It changed enough to work for me? I haven't played it, but I do know what's changed, and it's not a ton, definitely tweaks not a full on redesign.
I'm keeping an open mind, and I'm excited to see more. But I definitely won't hesitate to drop out if the game doesn't feel fun. Awesome art and supporting a pinball company that's doing things in a true and honest way are great things, but I buy pinballs to play them, so that's my primary consideration.
Quoted from ZenTron:
I had a question/respectful feedback about the 50 LE decision and asked if a shot map was going to be revealed prior to all the spots for the game being filled. I expected a little more respect and courtesy from a fellow North Carolinian.
A lot of the feedback I received from others besides Charlie has been pretty insulting. Instead of trying to out wise-ass each other for thumbs-up that means nothing you should try to be advocates for Spooky. Offer helpful respectful feedback and make new customers for them. Instead of trying to bring me into the Spooky customer pool ya'll are pushing me and im sure others away. It seems like its just easy for some of you to tell me to screw off and don't be a customer because you are simply lazy and angry.
Perhaps you should reread my post and drop your preconceived notion of antagonism. I wasnt disrespectful in any way. Spooky doesn't need you to do anything if you're not interested in the game. And they have no expectation from anyone...they announced a game theme and alot of people decided that was enough to communicate preliminary interest. That's all that has happened. You keep stressing over reveals and money and we aren't even to that point yet. So alot of people don't understand your anger hence the downvotes. Then you persist when many have explained and so people tire of your obstinace and begin making wise ass comments. I'm sorry you felt I was one of them but my post was sincere and succint. It was not meant to disparage you but simply recommunicate to a fellow nc pinsider that there really is nothing to stress over at this point.
July 4th was for previous amh owners to declare interest, LE or otherwise...somehow I think that's been disregarded due to the mad rush of interest.
Quoted from YKpinballer:
No, July 4th was a date related to selecting LE but they all got taken instantly so once that happened anybody could ask to be put on the "interested" list for a SE
OK makes sense...the original post from the CO show wasn't clear but your interpretation sounds right. However Id heard that every LE holder is not necessarily an AMH buyer. That info could be wrong tho.
Could someone remind me...is the build order 50 LEs first then the 250 standards or is it a mix?
I've had a chance to digest the layout, and the artwork while seemingly sparse vs the insane cabinet/head, is starting to grow on me. However, I do see some opportunities to take this game from a 10 to an 11, that I wish Spooky would consider. I know the chance is likely less than 0%, with production slated for end of January, but I for one would wait another 4 weeks to implement the following:
1. - Put a Spinner on the post in the upper playfield. An opportunity to do something else besides hit the rollover switch or bash the Spaulding toy. I've never seen a wire switch not in a guide before either, so a little concerned what happens when the ball hits this switch repeatedly from the side. Seems might become an adjustment nightmare.
2. - The Witch and What inserts are begging to be monster popups (aka trolls). I know that would be a huge undertaking but an opportunity lost I feel.
3. - Mirror Blades or interior artwork or lightbars. The sides seem much larger than normal with no structures to obscure the bleak black wasteland (like the castles in BSD). AMH had LED light bars here. Lightning bolts or a devil pitchfork lighting or something is needed.
4. - Need LEDs on the Robot/boom box. I see this as the first aftermarket mod if not done by Spooky. Put some glowing LED's in the eyes or some psychedelic lighting on the boombox.
5. - Skull pile....See #4
I'm confirmed for an LE and looking forward to gameplay videos.
Quoted from dirtbag66:
This is a forum for discussion. Sorry if everyone else's views don't match up with yours.
I'm excited for JJP #3. When that game is finally revealed, do you think it will be all sunshine and roses? I certainly don't.
LOL...that's some funny sh$$ right there....How about he delivers on #2 before you start worrying about #3, three years from now.
Quoted from dirtbag66:
I was simply trying to prove a point. I'm just saying that not everything can be happy and uplifting all the time. No matter what game comes out, there will always be naysayers.
Such is life.
You're missing the point...you are exactly right in that life in general isn't happy and uplifting all the time. In this day and age we are all dealing with crap in real life. So we come here to escape that for a little positive energy about a new game that many are excited for. But then there are those who aren't even invested or interested in the game who want to knock it down. For what reason? What does "I wouldn't pay 6k for that" add to the conversation? I'm invested for an LE but I'm not 100% happy with the game and I've listed some suggestions. But in a positive manner.
Quoted from maddog14:
Charlie said nuthin bout a 'prospectus ' coming with each purchase. Am i getting ripped off? Should I be filing a complaint with the SEC?
Reading is fundamental
buy (something) whose usefulness will repay the cost.
synonyms: purchase, buy, procure
"they invested in a new car"
As for the playfield artwork I had the first initial impression as Aurich. The playfield art just doesn't translate well to the cabinet. It's definitely two different styles. I wish it were more integrated like Centaur. But it's a Centaur cabinet with an AMH playfield if I'm perfectly honest. Nothing wrong with either by themselves but the playfield art does look out of place with the cabinet. It's not near as dark or brooding. Now after watching the video over and over the playfield art doesnt bother me as much....but it could have been so much more so I get the disappointments.
Has it been asked or mentioned....do any of the games have Robs signature? LE or otherwise?
^^agreed....there's a place for bible adventures discussion...let's try to steer this thread back on topic
So if I read it right, if you make the two sets of three lanes and start bashing cpt but lose ball from the upper pf you lose all progress on the six lanes and have to start over? Or just start over bashing the cpt? Seems very similar to tv on tspp.
Quoted from Excalabur:
Inlanes aren't outlanes Making people get the inlanes is more than fair.
But giving one ballsave each side for the outlanes would be Super Neat (you get a ballsave if you haven't hit that switch during the mode), and having to get both to finish. Maybe on the 'infected' version?
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
One twist to this mode, (it's user settable) that is, your flippers are reversed.
Another TSPP nod....I'm not complaining mind you as many including myself believe TSPP to have one of the best rule sets ever. This game is shaping up to be spectacular....not that there's anything wrong with that
Quoted from jalpert:
I don't love the idea of having to hit inlane switches to complete a mode. I think it would be more frustrating than fun.
Unless each inlane is fed by an easily obtainable ramp return....even if only one is, then that coupled with whysnow suggestion would be a good compromise.
Quoted from jalpert:
Do you have to hit every switch, or just so many? It'd be fine if it was lit if you didn't have to hit every switch. I just don't want to be aiming for an inlane to finish a mode or make it required. Hitting them takes a level of skill most people don't have, and the other way to hit it is luck, lots of people don't have the skill to nudge that well.
Not if the inlane is fed by a ramp...if you can't hit that, practice And following whysnow suggestion at most it could take two ramp shots for inlane or four for all lanes. I don't see it being that difficult.
Pretty sure Charlie indicated awhile back that the LE backglasses could NOT be purchased separate. Perhaps the LE artwork can be purchased as a translite and that seems fine, but selling a BG separate would devalue the LE IMO.
Quoted from kpg:
None of you guys are worried that this title is made by a new company with no experience making pinball machines either? Just trying to see how this machine is a day one purchase at $8K+. Seems risky. But that's just my opinion of course.
Either you're a blatant troll, or extremely ignorant of the facts. Which is it?
Why not just have the upper pf give you an extra second on the mode per Spalding hit but once it maxes at say 10 the timer starts timing down with an appropriate dmd warning. That way you can play the upper to gain a few secs for your mode but at some point you're penalized if you play too long. And no points are involved just time.
Quoted from thedarkknight77:
What are you smoking??? Listen I am not saying RZ will suck, heck I am #193, but don't be a f'ing douche bag and call Metallica "boring"??? Considering Metallica Is rated #9 & #10 of all time here on Pinside, I think it is safe to say your "respect" is nothing I give a shit about. Yes, RZ will be inferior to Metallica.......deal with it! I am paying $6000 for one and I am "ok" with it being inferior. Not every pin can be top ten material, that doesn't take away from the company or the game.
I've not played either so no dog in this fight but I wish everyone would quit using pinside rankings to quantify a pins worth. Don't you realize that everytime a new game comes out it's in the tip 20 for a period of time? Let's wait 10 years and see if Metallica is still in the top 100 then we'll talk. If the game is less than 2 years old it's rankings are as meaningful as my opinion.
Quoted from thedarkknight77:
I can understand your view to a degree and it certainly applies to games that have been out for a few months, but statistically, it's the number of reviews that matter most. Many of the newer games with high ratings have at least 400+ reviews. Games that have been out for decades only have roughly double that.
That's kind of my point....the 400 reviews of new games are mostly by the fans of the games and their initial excitement. The older games are over a longer period of time far after the honeymoon stage is over.
In the end ratings don't much matter to me and shouldn't to anyone else other than a general benchmark. All of the games in the top 100 have their pros and cons and are more or less liked by the populace. But to say a game ranked #10 is better than a game ranked #20 or even #50 is folly.
Quoted from TigerLaw:
I view rankings as the opposite. Because of how Pinside allows votes from ten years ago (before there were color changing inserts and other changes) to still count today and be weighted equally, I view the old game's ranking as being basically meaningless as they do not reflect the current community at all.
I call this issue legacy voting (past Pinsiders long since departed that never even heard of a Tron LE pumping up the ratings of 90's games before we were so critical). If all games started from zero today the top 100 would look radically different reflecting the current collector community only and not ghosts from the distant past who didn't have many of the current games to even consider.
Anyway, sorry for my off topic post. I haven't had a good legacy vote post in at least a year...it had been bubbling up.
That's kind of like saying a 68 GTO isn't as much fun as a 2015 Cobra because it doesn't have power steering or brakes. They are all great for different reasons.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Final price has already been advertised for RZ for a while. Those upgrades on their website are for AMH. I'd imagine they might offer something similar for RZ but I haven't heard anything official.
I think he meant final pricing for the upgrades for RZ, not the game.
Quoted from herg:
Just looks like a yellow/orange gradient behind it to me. It still looks pretty cool, though.
Color behind the "E" isn't yellow/orange if it's a continuation of the art....looks more like it's embossed onto the rail.
Edit: I see you're talking about the ghost....I'm wondering about the Rob Zombie lettering. Is that the same technique? The lettering looks to be on top of the rail to me, not cutouts.
Quoted from Mitch:
I would like to know this 2. If the upgrade now is 200 and you get the original toys to thats great, if you dont get the original then the 240 later is a better price as you get to keep the originals.
Good point....I already paid the 200 for mine but you're right...adding them later and getting spares for $40 would be a better value assuming it's fairly easy to add the mods.
Had the opportunity to play mine this weekend finally....At first I was NOT impressed. I just couldn't get into the game. But it's quickly growing on me, and the more I learn about the rules, and the shots, it's a winner. With that said, I'm having a few issues with mine. Everything set factory except I had to turn the back VUK up to 10 just to get the ball up to the upper PF. Things I'm experiencing:
1) The ball trough seems to randomly 'click', or at least that's where the sound appears to be coming from. No balls are spitting out, but during play I can feel/hear a click in this area. All trough switches operate fine.
2) The back arch has caught my ball a half a dozen times. I have the levelers in the back all the way up, and the ones in the front all the way down for fast play.
3) Due to the above I've had to tilt the game to try and dislodge the ball. If you tilt the game and a ball is missing from the trough, the game locks up. I remember my AMH does this too and it was on the list for Ben to fix.
4) My opto on the upper P/F at Cpt Spaulding doesn't appear operative. Or semi operative. It's strange. In switch edge test mode, the switch shows as the 2nd most right column, 3rd switch from the bottom, but there is no text nor audio to indicate it's made. It will flash with finger or ball in the matrix indicator, but that's all. During game play it never registers, so currently, I've never seen Spaulding move. Servo works fine in test mode. I've sent word to Spooky about this issue but no response yet. I traced that opto pair back as the blue/red, black/red wire, and the blue/black, black/black wire and they are on the connector on the Opto 4 bank. Can anyone confirm that Opto 1 and 2 banks are unused....Seemed odd that these optos were connected to the 2nd set, not the first.
5) On my game, on the upper ramp switch, there's electrical tape wrapped around it to keep it from shorting out against the upper P/F screw behind it. Is everyone's game like this? Thinking there should have been a rubber switch cover for this.
Even without Spaulding working, I've completed three or four modes and broken 100Mil a few times. I'm getting the hang of the game, but looking forward to getting some of these issues resolved.
Quoted from Betelgeuse:
Same here. The only way I know Spaulding works is from running the servo test. There doesn't seem to be any in game indication that he is being hit or otherwise activated. I figured maybe he was only active at certain times... There really needs to be an audio and/or visual queue for every switch in the game, whether it's active or not.
What really threw me is that in switch edge test mode, only the blinking box shows the opto working. No text on the DMD or no audio saying "Last switch made" like all the other switches.
As for the back arch, a little more investigating, and the ball is hanging up underneath the ramp at the bend. If I look straight down at the bend of the ramp, I can look between the ramp and upper P/F and see the ball resting underneath...Takes a hard shake and most times a tilt to dislodge it. Without taking the ramp apart and possibly the upper P/F, is it possible I'm missing a post or rubber under there?
Quoted from ZenTron:
GB LE has corrugated plastic and zip ties to conceal the wiring for the Slimer bash toy. I don't see what your electrical tape comment is in reference to but I think Stern could of done a better job at hiding those wires, since they are the largest operation.
The electrical tape comment is likely from my post, where I asked if other's had tape on a particular switch that keeps it from shorting against an upper P/F screw. Charlie has since responded that it was put there during wiring/testing to keep from shorting out and to keep it from rubbing during shipping, but once the game is in place it could be removed and to be extra safe bend the wire/diode down away from the switch.
I know Ben is adding mini wizard modes to AMH, so I have to believe Spooky is well aware of the importance of this type of play, and will implement in RZ in time.
Speaking of video mode, is there any strategy or goal to the current mode other than just hitting as much as possible? I see no penalty for not doing something, and the length of time given seems to change.
I forget...was the secret handshake mode ever implemented for changing between Adult/Family mode. I have to change it quite often, and it would be nice to do without going into the service menu. Also, has anyone else noticed that the Video Adult portion is semi-broken. If you change it to Sound/Video off, and then back to Sound/Video on, only the sound reverts back to Adult mode. The only way I can get it to go back to Adult Video is to specifically select Sound No, Video Yes. Then Sound Yes, Video Yes.
Maybe implement a power on sequence instead.....Probably don't want a random flipper sequence enabling adult mode, as for those on location or permanently on, there always a chance someone gets lucky. What if you powered game on with the left flipper button held in until after boot....then you get a confirmation prompt to hit credit button to change to adult mode. And of course a menu item that enables/disables this feature for those that never want it to turn on.
Quoted from ATLpb:
thx for feedback Hooch,
Fawzma- any word on our CHOP talks from SFGE on this? I know you got a ton to do, just wondering.
I suggested to him to make your 2nd, 3rd etc CHOP ball save harder to achieve so you can't "abuse" it.
first time spelling it should get you a 3-5 second ball save, then the second time you try to get a CHOP ball save, you should have to spell it twice and have even less seconds 2-4 of save time, then the third time you should have to spell it three times and get 1-3 seconds of save time, etc.
Decent+ players like myself will learn to "abuse" CHOP quite a bit otherwise.
I'm not in favor of this. I like CHOP the way it is, just my opinion. There's a certain strategy to stage your inlane/outlanes to have a ball save at the ready. The only tweaks I could see is do something different with it during multi-ball. With CHOP enabled during multiball, there's almost always a ball going down the inlane/outlanes and it's pretty easy to have a constant ball save.
Quoted from ATLpb:
I feel the way I do because a good player is nearly always going to have 3 letters lit, and save the fourth for a ball going down the outlane. Essentially nullifying the danger of the outlane.
That's what good players do....learn the 'system'. Most good players are able to nullify the outlanes anyway with nudging. The outlanes come into play on fast unexpected drain to the outlane where nudging is nullified, and that would take having CHOP staged, and the right lane unlit in anticipation of a quick drain. I don't think it is as easily gamed as you're suggesting. I've put about 100 games on mine, and score above 20mil per game, am a decent player, and I just don't see it as an issue.
Quoted from ATLpb:
It does not take top tier for this level of manipulation. The ramp is highly achievable and gives a letter. Ramp is also available from both flippers. I have 20-30 plays in Tpf/ sfge, and I was already doing it and I'm merely a little better than 'casual'. Good player can hit the ramp 3 times in a row, get three letters and then get back to their game (with outlanes essentially eliminated)
Fawzma's idea about turning them off is good. Then when I get three, and I have a ball returning down the ramp wireform I have to decide whether I want to activate CHOP or go down to two letters.
I hear you, but I don't think you understood what I was saying. Even if you have three staged, you would either have to be quick to select the outlane on a quick outlane drain for the fourth, or just not bother on a slow drain where most decent players are used to nudging the ball out. So I don't see it being that much of a game changer for a pro player who expertly nudges. Maybe for us intermediate players it's a bonus, but we can get all the help we can get. Unless you are routinely raping the game for 100mil+ I don't think it's that much of an advantage, and as Fawzma suggested, turn it off as most pro tourney's do anyway.
Quoted from hooch333:
Actually, I don't think this is true. I was expecting a ball save after multiball numerous times, knowing full well that I had a C-H-O-P "in the bag" so to speak. However, after draining last ball I had no ball save. After it happened a few times I realized that I needed to be more strategic with the feature.
Not sure what you're saying here. I know for certain that CHOP activates ball save DURING multiball. Let's say you start multiball and get down to 4 balls. 4th ball drains, but makes CHOP or CHOP activated prior by another ball. The game spits out another ball and you maintain your 4 balls. As you lose balls without CHOP then your multiball drops to that level. It doesn't go back up. Have no idea what you mean by "after draining last ball I had no ball save".
I'm not a pc hardware expert by any stretch but doing a sector for sector copy of data that was copied using fat32 which doesn't insure sector for sector writing seems problematic. Got to be a better way.
Quoted from Troutfarm:
anyone else blow any fuses yet? 10 games in or so I blew out all the left side solenoids.
also, on V7 so its probably moot. the game locked up during 1000 corpses.. flippers went dead, and it just flashed 538 or however many corpses I had and stayed like that well beyond a reasonable time. Had to reboot.. it was the next game that blew the fuse shortly into gameplay.
one gripe.. got a ball stuck in the wires by the rollover area going halfway around the left orbit.. That fact that there are wires that the ball can get stuck in is a bit crazy design wise. I might go in cut the plastics so the wires can be out of the way of the ball.
game is super fun otherwise.
I've had two of the three....Not had the 1000 corpse issue, but I've also blown out the flipper fuses, and I had the same ball stuck on wires issues in two different areas. The wires definitely need either a better route or something to secure them better. The fuse issue for me coincided with infection where the flippers swap, so who knows...It's not happened since, but I've also not had infection mode active again.
Quoted from bemmett:
Ummm, blew a fuse I think, lost all my "Sol Bank 2 coils", soooo where the hell are the fuses and how do you replace them?! I need a live in pinball tech, I hate working on games anymore
On a side note I'm not sure if it was random or maybe a code thing. I had this problem occur when I was doing a 2 player game and at the very end of a ball got my first "infected flipper" or whatever it is where the flippers were reversed(I think anyway, it was weird) It only happened for a quick moment and lost the ball, after that was when my coils weren't working.
That's exactly how my fuse blew....Got infection mode, lost the ball and the fuse blew. Except mine was the center fuse for the flipper. Sounds like a code issue possibly.
Its a shame that so many were bought for speculation. However I don't see them flying out at 8k plus people are asking. The same ones are still for sale. In my opinion Pinside is the wrong audience to be trying to scalp these games. Rob Zombie hardcore fans should be the target audience. They're the ones that were shut out of buying as most games were spoken for by pinsiders by the time word got out to the masses.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:
I picked my LE#4 from Gene (Genex here) on Pinside today. Thanks again Gene! We had our games shipped together to his location about 10 days ago.
Mine is still boxed. My wife & I are leaving tomorrow for Disneyland with granddaughter. My 28 y/o twin boys are here watching games with Harley my dog. I'll be unboxing RZ Monday or Tuesday.
Looking forward to it.
I have LE#4....Not sure what you got
Happened on my RZ too as I had to remove the ramp once to correct poor wire routing that was trapping the ball. I did the toothpick method and it's held to date.
What is easy if the ball hits the flipper on the vuk exit consistently. Problem is it doesnt...mine hits the pile and either bounces straight down the rail or bounces over and off the playfield completely. If I turn the vuk power down then it takes 6 tries to get the ball up and that's equally frustrating. Not sure what the solution is but it's a good idea implemented inconsistently at best poorly at worst. One of the more frustrating aspects of my game currently.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:
Just checked the audits on my routed RZ. 253 games played in the last month. The only issue has been a ball getting stuck under a sling, which I fixed by dialing back the slings to 4 and replacing the sling rubber with the next size down. A marvelous game.
At a dollar a play it'll be paid off in 30 months? 60 months if you're splitting with the house. I don't see how operators stay in business but kudos to you for doing so.
I haven't upgraded yet....still on original build release (LE 4). Sorry if I missed it but has infection been fixed? I know one release took it out so I've been waiting for it to go back in before upgrading.
Is there a change log for all the revisions? I'm unable to spend much time on Pinside nowadays, and I've been waiting for infection mode to be fixed before updating. Instead of asking every time I come on here, if infection mode is fixed (and if not, when will it be?), a change log on Spooky's site would tell me.
Finally updated from the original code (LE #4) to ver 15. Great work in progress and appears to be more balanced scoring. A couple of minor 'bugs' or anomalies that I don't recall being mentioned:
Now that there are high score tables for multiple achievements, I know that the display is supposed to default to the name, already entered. However, if the name is only two initials like mine (RM), then it doesn't default to END, but to "A" for the third letter. Not a big deal to flip over one and then press end, but would be nice if it retained the blank and defaulted to END.
So, like many others, I'm getting the random ball stuck up on the left habitrail during multiball. I usually play until the other balls drain, then attempt to move the glass. I use the switch on the coin door (pulled out) to keep the coils energized and park the ball on a flipper. Then try to get the lockbar and glass on with one hand while holding the flipper and close the coin door. The problem is, when the door closes, the switch makes a momentary transition from pulled out to pushed in, and in the dead zone of the switch drops the flipper and drains my ball. When you've got an epic game going, this tends to cause MF's to fly out and the 11 year old who is watching TV nearby wonders what happened Is it possible to add a debounce to that switch so that it has to be off for .5 seconds before releasing the coils?
It's not getting caught IN the habitrail....ball is getting launched from collisions and landing between habitrail and cabinet side. It's not a degree of slope issue. Someone else posted a picture of it earlier in the thread...I thought it was Rotordave. It's happened a couple of times for me and only during multiball due to collisions.
EDIT: Took a picture....the ball rests against the screw head. Most times, it's violent enough that the ball travels down the plastic and usually drops into the outlane. So more than a few balls have ended up in this area, but on a rare occasion it sticks against the screw.
Quoted from rotordave:
Put the ball in the shooter lane instead.
Don't worry about keeping the door switch out ... let it turn off the coils as per usual. Put the glass back on and the lock bar, and when you close the door the shooter cool will fire the ball back into play.
Good idea....I'm so used to pulling out the coil switch which of course would launch the ball I've just done the flipper cradle. But obviously your way is better!
Not sure if anyone has seen this one yet, as it's on the way to hellbound. I've never reached HB myself until today, and not knowing what it is, or what it should do, not sure where the errors are. BUT, when the DMD says hit SATAN I assume that means the Spaulding toy. So I did that over and over (not sure if that's right because the DMD isn't real helpful...feels unfinished here). Then the DMD displayed Shoot the Gate. Spaulding opened up, but my ball didn't have enough power, so as it sat at the gate, Spaulding closed and knocked the ball back into the upper PF. At this point, no amount of bashing spaulding would reopen the gate, and the DMD kept displaying Shoot the Gate. Frustrated, I took the glass off, and hit every switch on the PF multiple times, but Spaulding refused to open again. I drained the ball (had an EB waiting), and then the left orbit began flashing again...Went through the pumps again and this time when I got the Shoot the Gate message, the ball went through and the display showed Right Orbit. I hit the Right Orbit, then the Center Ramp, then drained, game over.
I could have kept it going but didn't want to spoil the surprise with the glass off, but getting that far and then having a bug spoil HB was disappointing. Probably won't get there again However, as much as I love RZ, what I did see of HB felt very unfinished and not intuitive at all....at least not as polished as the rest of the game.
Another bug maybe with v15, but I don't recall anyone else mentioning it and it's pretty obvious, so not sure.
After downloading v15, yesterday, I went into Game Settings and changed Video Adult On and Audio Adult On. Main Settings are Auto Adult Mode Off and Adult Mode time Disabled. Played a game, and it was as expected. Today, powered up, and playing a game, the witch mode showed the cat. Audio was still adult. Went into the main and game settings to verify, and everything was still the same. So not holding the flipper shouldn't have set anything, right? And the Clock shouldn't do anything, right? I saw this before on earlier versions and the only way to get the dancing witch back was to Switch Video Adult Off and then back On. Is there some other setting I'm missing or not understanding?
Quoted from Medisinyl:
[EDIT: I see now that you're saying it goes to the cat every time (?). If so, then I have not experienced that. It would be the girl every time the next time thus far.]
I occasionally see the cat and occasionally hear audio things that I assume were made specifically for the non-adult version. My presumption was there's a mix to offer less repetition. I don't at all mind seeing the cat every once in a while as it gives a sense of deeper code (whether there is more to find like that or not).
In fact, it would be awesome if you get the "crappy" cat version (with non-adult audio) if you start the mode with a score under "????" (or similar prerequisite).
Can't say for sure if every time but at least you're seeing what I am. I respectfully disagree...if I'm in adult video mode I want to see the naked dancing witch....period. I hate the cat
Definitely agree that living dead girl needs to be a stackable mode. And definitely agree there needs to be a running counter for 1000 corpses.
Also the extra ball needs something. Always puzzled when the machine seems to go dead for several seconds.
And lastly before I shut up, infection mode needs to be in the top 2 of bug fixes. That was a feature that really helps set RZ apart. Miss it.
Quoted from tmontana:
As of now hell bound looks kind of buggy.
Yes it was very buggy for me too....If the ball doesn't make it through the "gate", then you're locked out until the ball drains. And Shoot Satan is not intuitive for bashing Spaulding, and Shoot Gate wasn't intuitive for going past Spaulding...he's a clown, not a gate. I get where Spooky is trying to go with the progression, but there needs to be better tie in to the game so a player knows what to do. It's a small nitpick as anyone who even gets to Hellbound probably can guess as I did, but when the ball was locked out of the "gate" I had to take the glass off to make sure that there wasn't something missing to opening Spaulding back up. I was that unsure.
Quoted from twenty84:
That is not the case. The high voltage cables come off the bottom of the card in the backbox. It may work as well if you just do the tilt cable as others have done. I did not have issues with the other switches but I put the ferrite cores over all of them.
I see in some of the previous pics some people seem to have separated the 3.3V wire that goes to the tilt bob from its ground. This will create a ground loop (e.g. current will be induced by changing magnetic fields similar to what occurs in a generator) which may exacerbate the issue. Any loop should be minimized by twisting these two wires (3.3V and ground) together.
Your terminology is a little mixed up...a ground loop is not induced noise....it's a current produced by a wire being grounded at two different potentials...and twisting wire doesn't help a ground loop. Twisting wire does however help reduce induced magnetic interference as a signal is the difference between the two wires and any noise would theoretically increase the amplitude on both wires so that the difference remained the same.
I finally hit the skill shot today...although it was pure luck....after plunging to the first sling it sent the ball up the right orbit a bit...ball returned down and hit the second sling and was a perfect shot to the third sling. One out of 200 is more of a luck shot but I'll take it
Also is it a know bug that the mpu hangs when exiting the menu? Mine seems to do it 80% of the time to where I have to power off to recover.
Had a decent game last night...only demenoid kept me from reaching hellbound again. However was surprised score was only around 45 million. Not sure if mode achievements allow for higher scores or if it's just better to concentrate on a few modes for scores...what say the experts?
Uncovered maybe a minor bug, or at least an inconsistency....v15
When playing American Witch, I didn't hit the 3rd shot before the pops, which darkens the playfield (turns off all lamps), except for the living dead girl targets to restart the mode. That's fine, but I noticed, that through sheer chance, when the ball went down a dark inlane, it activated CHOP even though the lamp wasn't lit and I had no idea three of the four were completed. Then very quickly the ball drained, a new ball was served due to the ball save, and the American Witch mode aborted. So a couple of things going on here....CHOP is still available even though the lamps are out and a player would have no idea...and on a ball save, you're technically still on the same ball, so shouldn't American Witch still be active awaiting restart at the Dead Girl targets, instead of resetting the modes? I don't think a ball save does that on other modes.
With Dominoes and now Jetsons, plus #3 on the way, can Spooky (Fawzma) comment on projected schedule for code completion? Seems our programmer is getting stretched thin. The code changes to date have been great, but there are some areas that need serious attention (Final Wizard mode, infection mode, etc). Wondering if Game #300 is going to ship before the code is completed?
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
The only commitment I'll make is, I won't give up on this or any of these other games till we truly feel they are done and rules are implemented as designed.
Appreciate the feedback...Can we assume that currently you are the only coder for Spooky? Will that continue or does Charlie foresee adding additional resources?
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
.53 amps I take it.. You have to also consider the amps being pulled from other sources. the Fuses are 3A slow blow. And the code you quoted is fixed at least in RZ ( holdHalf turns the low power coil off. ) I noticed in v23 AMH its still in there..this could very well be causing the phantom flipper amp blow issue.
Just about every game since EM inception has separate fuses for flippers only. Are you saying that other circuits share the flipper fuse? That's problem #1.
Quoted from herg:
Oh, and before I forget. I want to check the wire gauge. Mine has a single wire running from the supply, through the interlock, then up to the board. At a glance, it looked like 18AWG, which seems a bit small if the only fuses are the 3 parallel ones on the board.
Are you saying the 12.5A supply is fed by a single 18AWG? That's okay as long as the current protection device (fuse) is less than 9.5A...which if there are only 3 possible paths, and each has a 3A fuse, then it's close but ok. For main power feeds I usually don't use anything less than 14 AWG, 16 AWG for lamps and solenoids, 18AWG and 22AWG for low current inputs (switches) and comms.
Saw a bug maybe today, or perhaps I don't understand what's supposed to happen. Was playing LDG, and a ball went behind the target without knocking the target down, which normally does the dirty pool graphic. But today, it locked the ball. Is that normal?
Also, what is the determination for the outlane ball save? Sometimes it immediately kicks one out as soon as an outlane switch is hit...other times, the ball has to hit the trough switch. Might be cool to always use the outlane switch and for those that can do a death save, instant multiball
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
What version are you running?
Ball save on outlane are only active when one ball is on the playfield.
For LDG.. are you sure you didn't drain a second before the ball went behind? In order for the lock to work, the switch the drop target is on has to be activated. Maybe you are hitting on something from a time when I tried to stack modes. If you are on an older version, then that would explain it. Otherwise, check the switch.
Ver 17. Switch works fine on target...dozens of other times I get the dirty pool graphic. It could have been a drain of one ball as the second ball went behind the target. Not sure. I just know that it definitely said ball 1 locked even though the target was up and I was in LDG.
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
What version are you running?
Ball save on outlane are only active when one ball is on the playfield.
Not entirely true....Maybe if you've just activated CHOP with the ball....But if you've been playing Mball, and the 2nd to last ball drains and you activated CHOP with it, then the last ball drains, you have to wait for the trough switch.
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
I tried my best. we did some extreme tests and after 20 minutes of the low hold being on, the coils would get hot. Enough so that the coil performance took a hit. We figured even though they wouldn't be held that long in the real world (I hope) over time as the machine is played, it would add up.
With the pulse we were able to lock them on for 2 hours and didn't break a sweet.
No its not accumulative like that...a coil doesn't wear out. The resistance changes as it gets hot that's what causes weakness. But once it cools it's back to normal. You can't equate a 20 minute hold to even a 2 hour use with on and off duty cycle.
Yes I understood what he was saying. My point is who holds a flipper for 20 minutes in a game. There's almost always some duty cycle involved. If you're trapping a ball for 20 minutes then either your a masochist or a pinball wizard or both because that would be boring as hell
Another "feature" uncovered that I haven't seen mentioned.
Playing American Witch Mode:
Shooting for Left Orbit, but don't make it before hitting pops/slings, living dead girl targets light, rest of inserts dark to restart...OK so far.
Hit living dead girl targets and restart, and this time make left orbit, now shooting for ramp.
Once again my aim sucks this morning, and I hit the pops. Same deal, living dead girl targets light, rest of inserts dark to restart.
This time however, while the DMD is showing hit LDG to restart, the game is still calling out to hit the center ramp. I trap the ball, and game calls out to hit center ramp so I do. Mode completely ends, inserts all back on, left orbit flashing to restart a new mode. AW not rewarded of course.
Sigh....My luck is getting worse with RZLE....It seems I can't play a day without facing an issue.
So this morning, playing Dragula, game drained a ball with ball save but nothing happened. Game just sat there going into periodic ball search mode. Took glass off and force fed a ball into shooter lane. Resumed game and noticed weird stuff....modes wouldn't end, some shots didn't register. Oh boy.
Put game into switch edge test, and the 7th trough switch is doing something odd. First, switches 2-6 register on the matrix as a lit square, but the text/audio doesn't change. Then the 7th switch does nothing by itself, but if any other switch is on, the 7th trough switch will turn that switch off. So at least something is going on with Column 2. So I head to Spooky website to get matrix, and the link is non-existent. It says Click Here for the matrix, but there's no hyperlink. Other things I noticed is that if the target is down, the LD switches won't register, but if it's up, they do. Also, the right upper PF switch doesn't register and the far left outlane switch doesn't register. Next step is to run through the column/row pins test to make sure it's not a board issue, but without a matrix I'm flying blind.
Does anyone have a picture of the matrix that maybe they downloaded before?
Can anyone confirm if the trough switch column works on their machine in that it changes the switch audio and updates the last switch made?
I hate to bother Spooky on a Sunday, so hopefully I can get it resolved with some help here
Just an update: I checked every row wire and column wire to ground...no issues there.
I checked every diode on the switches and they all seem to be okay...none shorted. Of course without a matrix I could have missed one. I also jumpered the rows to columns at the board and the board seems to be ok. But again without a matrix to double check, I'm only 80% sure.
Thanks guys, that's exactly what it was. All fixed now. Need a switch condom or something under there to keep that from happening.
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:
We've had some minor freight damage as anyone could expect... but NOTHING as bad as this in 4 years we've been in business. It looked like it fell off a truck, and the truck backed over it so see what the noise was.
And yes... we are willing to help get this right, but this is currently between the buyer and the seller (which wasn't us) to sort out.
Thanks for clarifying that Charlie....You know, I don't think anyone put 2 and 2 together, but we should have, as your games came in a box, and weren't shrink wrapped like that. We all just assumed it came from Spooky, not even considering a private sale. Kudos to you guys for helping the buyer out, but yeah, it's between him, the seller and the shipper.
Quoted from Mitch:
Whats with all the vague comments and partial pictures. How are you alone?
If you have something to say just say it.
Who shipped it? what is the shipping company saying? How far did it travel and who wrapped it? was it shipped with legs on?
Who siad it was your fault?
Would be nice to have some real info especially if a user or shipping company is screwing you around so we know what to look out for. We already know spooky isn't at fault but you cryptically post it here like it is instead of starting your own thread sharing your experience.
Quoted from Rappelbox:
You are referring to the wrong company! Pinball Universe is German based company and only about 3 years old. They put very much effort in supplying only the best games and their service is outstanding!
The tread on flippermarkt has been closed due to the lack of facts/pictures and the will to answer very specific questions regarding transportation.
anyways, I hope for both sides to come to an amicable ending.
I read the flipper forum and no offense but I saw no reason to close that thread. How is he supposed to post pictures of a damaged box now that the thread has been locked. He's posted pictures of the game loaded on his van here on pinside and it's clear to see that the box is damaged. Even Charlie from Spooky concurs. We don't know all the facts but in my opinion the forum is doing a disservice to their user by locking the thread...it does appear as a one sided attempt to protect pinball universe.
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:
Sounds like your switch got wired backwords. Had the same problem on mine. Those 2 switches are mounted in opposite directions, so from the underside view the wires should be opposite as well.
Also the ball hits the underside of the gasoline switch and shorts out the legs...causes exactly what you see...take off the upper playfield and bend the switch back.
Skill shot is hitting the first sling...luck shot is getting number 2...win the lottery shot is number 3. I've only accomplished 3 twice in hundreds of games.
Looking forward to Hellbound being fixed...reached it once and was very problematic. Definitely needs polish.
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
set adult video and audio to off
ignore the timeblocks stuff
set adult time to on
with machine off
hold left flipper button and start button, turn machine on. You hear sherry say tell your adult mode is on, let go of flipper and start.
I have the Auto stuff turned off, and Adult Video and Adult Audio ON. I still randomly get the Cat during American Witch.
Quoted from Dutts:
I asked Fawzma about that. He said its set to alternate for a bit of variety
F that....if I want a cat ill put it back in kiddie mode. Witch dancing is one of the highlights of the game. Friends come over they want to see that, not the cat. Please make that a setting or get rid of it.
I appreciate all the tweaks, but the two biggest fixes I'm looking forward to are infected mode and the buggy Hellbound. Granted, Hellbound is probably low on the list because it's rarely seen, but the one time I got there, it was disappointing.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Has anybody ever had 2 balls get stuck in the VUK? Happened to me for the first time ever last night. Once the second ball goes into the VUK you pretty much have to take the glass off to unstick them as the VUK cannot send either ball to the upper PF when there are 2 and it just keeps trying over and over unsuccessfully. Probably just a fluke since this is the first time I've seen it.
Yes it happened to me a couple of weeks ago....it was during ho1k multiball and I didn't notice them gone until balls drained and game went into ball search...found two in the vuk. Wonder if ball search could amp up the power of the vuk solenoid to get them out.
Quoted from FawzmaGames:
if the balls are laying side by side the VUK post may not hit them, or if to many balls get in there it ends up being a jammed mess that no amount of ball search can clear.
In my case, there was one on top of the other. Probably related to the previous poster, as I too often have situations where it takes 4 or 5 attempts for the VUK to send a single ball successfully up to the upper PF.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:
Thanks - wires look ok but guess there might be a connection not making good contact in the plastic block.
Can't now remember if any of these issues discussed?
1. Ball gets stuck behind drop target?
2. Ball gets stuck somewhere unseen at back of playfield. Can't see where and when I lift playfield it re-appears. Have to re-start game as game says a message about checking a switch.
Loving the game - just need to get it dialled in 100%
1. Make sure your game is level. Also, loosen one of the mounting screws below the PF and slightly angle the Drop Target assembly.
2. Mine did this on the pass through orbit...turned out to be the wiring assembly up to the top plastic lamp was drooping into this area and catching the ball. Others have reported that the ball guide in the same area might be a little flat and need some adjusting.
Looks like you had the same problem I had...Hard to tell from that angle, but that wire bundle shouldn't be in the lane. My ball was getting hung on the wires.
Also make sure your game is level...both front and back of the PF...sometimes the front PF might be level but if there's any twist in the PF, the back may not be. It seems that with your Drop Target hang up and now this, the back of your PF isn't level, but tilted to the left.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:
Well, took me over 4 hours but bending it in the exact right place did the trick!
Still dialling in and working through last few issues.
Has anyone had this happen?
I tested WHAT mode and at the end Capt Spalding is supposed to turn to let ball through........ mine turns but not far enough to let ball go past.
I cannot figure out why it won't turn as far as it should.
I believe there is a min/max setting in the setup for the servo position.
What illuminates Hurry Up? Played a decent 40mil game today, and on ball 1 completed LDG, Dragula, AW and What!. After What! the Hurry Up lit and stayed lit the rest of the game. Never did I see the mode select again on the left orbit. The mode select did work when I shot the ball to the upper PF, but the Hurry Up stayed lit the rest of the game. Every once and awhile it would go out for a few seconds then come right back on.
Incidentally, by the end of the game I was shy Ho1K and Demenoid....I sure wish there was something in the Demonoid mode that would spot those two upper right blue targets....takes pure luck to get them.
Yes....stacking LDG or some other multiball mode with Demonoid is a great idea....you need multiple chaotic rebounds to get those two upper blue targets.
huh....I've never had a problem with the upper switches, as long as the VUK feed hits the playfield...I had an earlier problem where the ball would bounce off the playfield over the skull pile 50% of the time, but reducing the VUK power solved that. I do end up with 2 or 3 retries out of the VUK sometimes, but I can almost always (80%) complete 3x jackpot or What! in a single trip. The flip up and around is pretty easy and repetitive.
Quoted from Leachdude:
I have replaced my flipper rubbers with titan thin rubbers. I can make both orbits good and can even hit the XX targets when I try.
I like to start out by completing WHAT! or LDG first as these are 2 of the easier modes for me. Then I move along to Dragula, from there I just go in a random order on how I am feeling on my shots.
Interesting...I wonder what other's preferences are? For me, I ALWAYs start out with LDG. Then Dragula and AW. These modes I usually complete the first time. Then WHAT!, and assuming a good feed off the VUK (about 75%) I'll complete it in one try. From there, It's Radio City. I usually keep H1K and Demonoid last. I know it's not the best strategy point wise, but since I'm the only one who plays it, my goal is always HB. Been there once, and unfortunately, with the current code, it was buggy as hell.
Quoted from Mudflaps:
Here's a quick PSA.
I had a 'Ball Missing' error after a game. I noticed during the game that some switches weren't registering. Went into the menu and saw switch 23 (Gas switch on upper playfield) was stuck.
Emailed Charlie and had to wait a whole 5 minutes for him to write back. Anyway, turns out an airball bent the switch diode and killed a string of switches.
I removed the ramp and upper playfield to bend the switch back. All is well again.
Just an FYI if anyone experiences the same thing.
It's been reported at least a half a dozen times already in this thread. Happened to me too. Hopefully Spooky is resolving the issue on the remaining games.
Quoted from emkay:
Reminds me of the old joke:
"Man, I'm kinda freaked out that they're putting serial numbers on all the condoms now. What's that about?"
"Serial numbers on condoms? Never seen that before..."
"Oh, you must not be unrolling them far enough."
You're supposed to unroll them? Huh....
Quoted from rotordave:
Man, that was the shit back in the day.
Me and my younger brother used to blow the shit out of each other over the 56k modem lol
I think we used to play Duke Nukem too? It's been a while ...
We used to sneak into work on Saturday and Co-op the engineering network and play 4 at a time. It was insane.
Does the Goober fix mean we can turn infected back on or is that still a separate issue?
I love Spooky and think Charlie, Ben, Fawzma et al are doing a bang up job. But can we please stop with the "you updated wrong" mantra so that must be the reason for your bugs. Ver 20 while a vast improvement is still obviously buggy. And if the upgrade process is so susceptible to introducing errors that it's the first reason given then maybe effort should be given to improving that. If it's a hardware limitation then send out preformed SD cards.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
No - many people can't follow SIMPLE instructions and it's proven that is the cause of some of peoples' issues. Nobody is blindly throwing out the "you updated wrong" but when they say certain things are happening, it can be tied to updating wrong. I haven't experienced any problems updating to V20 or with bugs. Many others as well.
Did you turn infected mode on?
Quoted from Fortytwo:
I have a question about ball save.
I noticed on some of my other games there seems to be a split second after the ball save light goes off that you can still save it. For example a ball bouncing around in the trough entrance.
On RZ I noticed if it's off it's off.
Don't know about in v20, but in prior versions, there was definitely time after the light goes off that ball save still 'saved'.
Quoted from davijc02:
I'm certain this is already noted but when I'm playing in a multi ball and drain both simultaneously with the ball save light flashing a lot of times it will only kick out one ball and end the multiball. Is this a product of how the trough is set up?
I'm thinking it should be like that any way...It's "Ball" save, not "Balls" save. Usually when a ball save is activated, it goes away. Not active for subsequent balls.
Thanks for the pictures....Looks good except for the cheesy slotted screws. Needs to be mushroom head black bolts for that polished look.