(Topic ID: 130434)

Rob Zombie's Spook Show International


By Russell

4 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #6177 Spooky mentions game #3! Posted by SpookyCharlie (3 years ago)

Post #6605 Gameplay and rules video from Spooky Pinball Posted by Jetzxi (3 years ago)

Post #7268 V019 changelog Posted by FawzmaGames (2 years ago)

Post #7366 Common trough issue caused by flipper switch description Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #9017 V21 Changelog Posted by GhostThruster (2 years ago)

Post #9409 V22 changelog Posted by FawzmaGames (2 years ago)

Post #10228 V23 / v24 changelogs Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)


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#264 4 years ago

So confused!

I thought non-AMH guys had to wait until July to get listed... or was that only going to be for the LE?

#640 4 years ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

or the initials of one song being considered

The song list is included in the promo video.

#701 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I was thinking the same thing because this is Rob Zombie. This is hardcore! Many here will be thrilled with art package. But I am confident that due to the nature of the beast (uh, Superbeast), many will need to back out due to wives, small children, etc.

If I end up staying in, I told my wife we might need to get a cover for when we have guests over. We'll see once the artwork is revealed. I love that kind of stuff, my wife is OK with it, and as long as it doesn't give my 3 yr old nightmares, I have no problems with him, either. I just don't want to offend friends (or my parents) who are more conservative. True, it's my house, and I can do what I want, but I also have respect for my friends and family.

3 months later
#1087 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Enhance! Enhance!
enhance1.jpg
enhance2.jpg

Run it again.

#1143 4 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

Even if they don't have playfield art I hope they can bring a flipping whitewood so we can play it and see what it's like.

Or at least an empty cabinet.

#1174 4 years ago

I can't really say how definite this is, but here's the reasoning behind one run of 300 games.

Spooky's production capacity is about 150 games per year. It would take 2 years to produce 300 games. Spooky says they don't want to get stuck producing a single game, and they would rather limit the run and be able to continue designing new games.

3 weeks later
#1412 4 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I'm not sure if this is the norm or an anomaly.

I saw him during the Hellbilly Deluxe tour, and I thought he was great. Of course, that's been quite a while back, so maybe he's slowing down.

#1428 4 years ago

Breakfast of champions!

#1429 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

what I got out of that talk:
playfield art will be done in 2 weeks, with another week to populate a playfield before it's shown.

I wonder if they're going to be populating a playfield this week.

2 weeks later
#1455 4 years ago

The only drama here is trying to decide which game gets bumped once Zombie ships.

#1460 4 years ago

Again, no love for the Card Whiz? I can get by with a 9th machine with it because it kinda fits on the other side of the room. Getting rid of it would not really free up a spot for RZSSI.

I'm leaning toward TOTAN at the moment, but I still have time to decide. My wife says MET, but nobody in their right mind would get rid of MET, right Mudflaps?

2 weeks later
#1571 4 years ago

Yay! Color dots! ...and then?

#1611 4 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

I think that's a good way to go for a DMD and much cheaper than a color DMD.

On the surface, it sounds like the hardware is virtually the same as that of the ColorDMD. A custom FPGA board driving an LCD.

#1649 4 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Am I the only one that is disappointed by reading that? I hope you can turn them off.

In general, I'm not a fan of video modes, either. I will reserve judgement until I play them, however. A few games actually have enjoyable ones. Fish Tales is about the only one I can think of that I would miss if it was removed from the game.

#1668 4 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

2% to walk away on deposit,that's my chance to pounce!

From what I understand there is also a list for backup buyers. I sure hope I didn't misunderstand when Charlie and Kayte said they were adding me to the interested list.

#1672 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

See the game, then get your wallet out, not the other way around.

Well, yeah, but I sure hope I get to make that decision, not that it's made for me because I'm on list #2 instead of list #1.

#1686 4 years ago

When do we get to add RZSSI to our wishlist?

#1773 4 years ago

Listening to Zombie here as well. Currently "How to Make a Monster (Kitty's Purrrrformance Mix)", and I'm a bit bummed it won't be in the game.

#1919 4 years ago

June 16th request here, and I did receive an email. I can't watch the video (comfortably) at work, but the cabinet art is incredible. My first impression is that the playfield art is a little sparse. I'm already enemies with the chicken bumper.

#1987 4 years ago

That was in the announcement video way back when.

RZsongs1.jpg
RZsongs2.jpg

#2039 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

If I could just say one thing that bothers me, it's that we're being given a week to decide (no problem, plenty of time) but without seeing any gameplay. It's hard to commit without seeing it flip. It sounds like we won't get that until January, which is pretty long past the deadline.

I totally agree that having gamplay video would be great, but I'm buying this one for all the wrong reasons.

1. The theme is my #1 most wished for. Actually, it's the only theme I can remember ever wishing for.
2. The artwork is incredible. In pictures, the playfield is the only thing that isn't perfect, in my opinion.
3. I love the gameplay on AMH, but the rest of the package just didn't add up to a purchase for me. I'm hoping RZSSI plays as well.
4. I'm speculating that this will be much more expensive to buy after the fact.

All things considered, I've decided this is a game worth taking a risk on.

10
#2240 4 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

If I want art, I'll buy art. If I want a pinball machine, I'll buy a pinball machine. Seems easy enough.

So, are you bailing out on this thread?

#2257 4 years ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

I was simply trying to prove a point.

We've heard your point. What YOU'RE forgetting is that we're all adults here. We make our own money. We make our own decisions. You've made yours as well, and no one is trying to convince you that your decision is wrong. Now, leave us be. If you have something constructive to say, so be it, but I've yet to see anything but negativity without any suggestions on how to make it better.

#2446 4 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

What I'd like hear discussed is who is Fawzma, aka Fozzy, and how good will the code on this game actually be.
And this matters most doesn't it? It does to me.

I'm interested in this as well. From what I've seen so far, he's very responsive to suggestions, and AMH has shown that Spooky is dedicated when it comes to updates.

#2590 4 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Rules are laid out, and I work to those rules.

I believe this was probably the area of concern. Nothing against you in particular, but being able to write software is not the same as being able to being able to write pinball software that is fun and challenging. I'll readily admit that I couldn't do the latter myself.

#2629 4 years ago
Quoted from Rico_Roughneck:

I see the Wisconsin pinsider love for the playfield art. Just sayin

OK. I'm not from Wisconsin, nor have I ever been there. If given the choice of the 3, original, standard translite, or LE translite, I'd choose the original.

I'm not in love with the original, and in fact, I find it a bit underwhelming. That said, artwork with no regard for the playfield features, with holes punched into it for inserts does not help, IMO.

#2656 4 years ago

This thread was more interesting when we were bitching about the playfield.

#2914 4 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

While spinners are no doubt cool, I don't understand the obsession? if you watch Charlie's gameplay vid he says: "1000 switch hits- so we give you 7 balls"

Quoted from rotordave:

1000 hits is a f**k of a lot of hits. You won't get the bumper cage hits on this game either.

Quoted from Pimp77:

But it has also been said you can 2x or 3x the switches, so in theory it could only take 334ish switch hits.

I would agree that with the multiplier it won't be as tough as it sounds. I would, however, really like to have something to shoot for (other than just multiplier targets) during the mode. Trying to keep 7 balls alive while shooting at a particular target will probably be near impossible, but once you're down to 3 or 2 balls, what do you do to keep collecting corpses?

#2921 4 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

If it's a switch, you get corpse.
I could pick a random switch and blink its light, and that one switch could be worth more then all others. I'd have to test for balance of course.

Quoted from Medisinyl:

it may be best to limit the bonus switches to orbits and the ramp, etc.

I would tend to agree. I'm sure you guys at Spooky are doing all you can to make this a good game with fun modes. I'm not a great player, and I only have a limited view of what's in the game, so I might be concerned about something unnecessarily.

This mode in particular though, I can see myself with three balls left, trapped on the flippers, maybe I've already collected the 3X, and I'm deciding what to shoot at. There's no spinner, and the pops are spread apart. With all the switches the same value and no particular shot that will give you lots of switch hits, I could see it being a situation where there is no good shot. Maybe you'd just pick the safest one.

#2929 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

7 balls in play = 1.7 switches per hit

"Only parts of the corpse had been removed"

#2933 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

why not ask Charlie what its intended to be and how its testing?

Charlie's pretty busy. What else are we going to talk about? Pizza or Aurich?

2 weeks later
#3503 4 years ago
Quoted from GAP:

Here are some random pics.

Thanks for the close ups. I think I have the patience to wait for this one, but any additional info about the game makes the wait easier.

I think I'm going to have to buy a cover, though. I love the artwork, but some of my friends, parents, my 3 year old, etc won't be as enamored.

#3584 4 years ago

Charlie said they were changing credit card processing and some PayPal deposits would be refunded. I suspect you will be asked to re-deposit using the new system.

#3592 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

The good news is that the translites should be available to purchase and we'll be able to swap either into our games.

Is this something Spooky told you? I'd love to have both, but I haven't seen any information that would make me think that they had decided to make them available.

1 month later
#4305 3 years ago

Just looks like a yellow/orange gradient behind it to me. It still looks pretty cool, though.

3 weeks later
#4476 3 years ago

The Dead Flip stream was nearly all the video I could hope for. It would be nice to see more of progress since then, and I would love to hear more of the callouts, but I'm willing to wait until mine ships for that.

I also don't think it will be too long until we start to see lots of videos.

1 week later
#4510 3 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Is the stock chicken a little bouncy and the upgrade chicken a lot bouncier?

Stock is thighs, upgrade is breasts?

1 month later
#4740 3 years ago

Any updates on when we might be able to buy translites? I'd love to have one hanging on the wall while waiting for my game.

#4744 3 years ago
Quoted from HappyDayz:

LE translites were already for sale at MGC. Email KT for one.

Sold out, but they'll be getting more.

1 week later
#4888 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

To use a translite in your game, you'll have to go out, buy custom thinner glass, buy the plastic side trim, cut it down...

I did intend to use the LE translite that I bought in my standard game, but it wasn't to make it into an LE, it was just that I like the LE art better. That's when I thought the standard came with a translite, though. I was expecting an easy swap.

No worries, though. Both are nice, and it may be for the better. When I showed the LE translite to my 4 year old son, the first thing he said was "Why is the witch's butt hanging out?"

Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Maybe I would sell my LE to get a standard as I honestly like both backglasses.

Let me know. I'm #191, and I'll drive to Pittsburgh. My brother bought a TOM from you a couple years ago, and he told me how cool your setup is.

#4964 3 years ago
Quoted from GAP:

Check out our latest Video of the Rob Zombie Spookshow International in Adult mode action.

Short, but sweet. It's great to be able to hear the audio. That right outlane looks like a SOB.

Quoted from MikeS:

What kind of Bryan Kelly crap is that

LOL.

#4973 3 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

Scheduling a launch party tournament at my location in Avon for June 24th. Got the okay from Spooky that my pin (#43) should be here by then.

That would be great if they can do it. Using the data I've gathered to generate a trendline, I'd estimate yours at closer to 7/13. The trendline also shows #300 at 11/5/2017, which is close to 17.5 months from the date #1 was shipped. It's all speculation, but I'm a nerd, and I enjoy these things.

#4975 3 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Herg, how about #52? Thanks

Swami sez, 7/31. But Kayte knows better than Swami.

#4986 3 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

So i'm #110 so i would think by oct/nov

11/16, but really it's too early to see an accurate trend.

#4993 3 years ago
Quoted from HappyDayz:

I don't understand your formula but it's definitely on the pessimistic side.

Very simple.

1. Collect reports of games shipping and plot the date vs game number.
2. Generate a linear trendline.
3. Use the trendline to "predict" when other games may ship.

Here's a picture:
1-Fullscreen_capture_5252016_73820_AM_(resized).jpg

I'm not really "banking" on anything, and I'm hoping they can get them out faster, but Spooky's own estimate was 12-18 months for all of the games. We're still so early on that any single data point can cause wild swings in the trendline. Without GAP's point, the outlook was much more bleak, putting #300 at 3/7/2018. That's why I say it's too early for it to predict an accurate trend. There's too little data, and we have to extrapolate too far into the future, not to mention that production may not be linear at all.

#4999 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

don't see how LE manufacturing is different from standard...

I think what he's saying is that there were a bunch of games nearly finished, only waiting on boards and testing. That allowed them to ship at a more rapid pace than they would have normally.

1 week later
#5112 3 years ago

You can't please everyone. I'm not a fan of video modes, but this one looks fun, and I love the low res version of Dragula in this context.

#5126 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Game #36 is done and in the box for those keeping score. 5 more games from #24 to #31 are on the dock waiting for today's truck. The rest of the 50 LE's are on stands in final testing.

Wow! Busy little bees, you guys are.

#5158 3 years ago

Would someone with the game be willing to measure the backglass? I'm considering a Swapbox for my translite, and it would be awesome if I could actually swap the two back and forth.

2 weeks later
#5318 3 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

So where is that projection chart?

I haven't seen enough shipment data recently for the projection to be anywhere near accurate, but here's the latest.

Note that tsskinne's game is not included in the projection since he doesn't mention a shipping date. Also, it only uses the most recent 10 points, in an attempt to adjust for the build rate changing.

Remember, this is just for fun. Don't get your panties in a wad when it turns out to be wrong.

1-RZ_Estimate_-_Google_Sheets_-_Google_Chrome_6222016_11537_PM_(resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#5531 3 years ago
Quoted from hAbO:

She said they are closing in on the late #70's this week.

I had been wondering how far along they were. It has been a while since I've seen any info on shipped games.

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

That rate would mean #150 in early November, which would be great.

My estimate actually shows it a little earlier than than, on 10/15, and that's before I figure in hAbO's report. Based on what Kayte said, I guessed #76 on 7/15, and that bumps #150 to 10/2.

Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

I'm guessing mine in September guess i need get the $$ fast....

Yeah, by my estimate, 9/2 or as early as 8/24.

1 week later
#5578 3 years ago
Quoted from blimpey:

Here are Swap Boxes that I have built.

Here's another. I still need to hide the wire, but my Swap Box is on the wall. It looks great all lit up. Thanks.

Quoted from blimpey:

The back glass is 27"x20" while the translites are 27 1/8" x 20 1/8". It might be necessary to trim 1/8" from the top and side of the translite for it to fit in the back box.

My translite was 27"x20", so make sure to measure before you cut. Since mine was exactly the same size as the glass I had cut, I didn't have to cut. It still wants to ripple a little bit, so I might end up trimming it ever so slightly.

20160715_164830_(resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#5760 3 years ago

Is the source for the PIC going to be available for this game?

I made some minor changes to the lamp matrix driver for AMH to smooth the lighting when dimmed, but I don't know if Ben has looked at it or if it's going to be used. I'd like the option of trying it on my RZ once it ships. Will this be possible?

#5807 3 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Fuse blown while playing an infected mode. Time to turn that feature off in the Set Game screen

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

From the V011 notes:
Update - Infected flippers option removed (opposite flipper option)

I'm confused. Is the option still there or not? If there's no option, it's always on?

I'd like to take a peek at the code to see if anything jumps out, but it seems that the code won't be available for this game. Is that true?

#5813 3 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

My understanding is that the code is open-source. I think you need p-roc to view though.

AMH is open source, but I have not seen the RZSSI code anywhere. It is PIC microcontroller code, not PROC based, and the compiler is freely available.

I would REALLY hope that people wouldn't bother them with support requests on source code, but maybe I'm giving people to much credit.

#5822 3 years ago

We ran into a bug last night. I was in multiball, but I can't remember which one. It should have been 2 ball, but I was only seeing 1, so I assumed the other was trapped somewhere. After I drained, I went looking for the remaining ball. We found it in the VUK, and eventually noticed callouts for mode select, but it was not displaying mode select stuff on the display. Once I selected a mode blind, everything seemed to work fine again.

#5851 3 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

I like the skill shot, but I would not call it a true skill shot.

At a friend's house last weekend, I completed it twice out of probably 15 games or so. It's tough, but not impossible. It is almost definitely also game dependent, though. If one of your slingshots is crazy, you're not going to be able to do much about it.

#5861 3 years ago

bt69_(resized).jpg

I see you moved it slightly. Did you get around to updating the lighting yet? The lighting is the main thing I would like to see improved.

1 week later
#5911 3 years ago

Is v12 released yet? The Spooky website says V0012, but when I download, it's still v11 in the archive.

I installed a knocker, and it sounds great. I'd like to see more options to use it for high scores, though. I set my other games for GC 3 credits, HS1 2 credits, others 1 credit.

I also need to work on the lighting. Has anyone changed the GI to different bulbs? What did you use?

#5917 3 years ago

My gameroom has overhead lighting that helps a lot, probably even better than spots. Sometimes, I like to play in the dark, though. I tried OpMax, and the sunlight look good, but don't light anything better. The red OpMax barely lit at all. I think I'm going to try twin SMD, but I'll have to order them.

I installed a LED OCD this morning, but I still need to work on the firmware. I also gave Ben some code that he says he's looking at for AMH. Maybe that could be rolled into RZ and give us smooth inserts without any hardware.

I like white lamps under the mode inserts better than color matched ones.

#5925 3 years ago

I'm not sure that other colors would work in this game. The lightshow uses the white and red strings separately to highlight game events. I'm not really a big fan of colored GI, either. I'm leaving the red here because of the way it's used, but if it was just like a Stern Pro game, I'd make them all white.

I have some frosted twin SMD on the way, and I'll step my way up through the spotlight and post light suggestions. I think it might remain a lot like WOZ. I added spots to WOZ, but I still never play it in the dark.

I'm pretty happy with the inserts now. I got the OCD running properly in it, and I love the white lights under the mode inserts. I do have a few more inserts that I'm trying to find the right bulbs for, and I have some stuff coming to try.

As others mentioned, one of the ramp screws came out of mine as well. The previous owner used the toothpick method, but it came out again. I used a longer screw.

I also have an occasional trap happening somewhere under the upper playfield where I can't see the ball. I have always been able to shake it loose, but it take a lot of shaking. I have a thin USB camera that I can slide up in there next time it hangs.

#5944 3 years ago

Please don't take the following as complaining, but rather as an attempt to make the game better. Overall, I love it, and I plan on keeping it a long time.

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

We've already corrected the ramps screws...

That's great to hear, and that's why reporting issues, even small ones, is important. The remaining 200 or so buyers won't have that issue to deal with. Good job, Spooky.

Along those lines, the wooden backbox trim piece that sits in front of the lock was not nailed in place on my machine. It has holes in it, so it looks like it may have been predrilled or something, but no nails. I'll tack it in place with some brads.

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Ball hang ups in the inner orbit tend to happen on the switch.

I'll take a look at that. I didn't get any hang ups on that last night, so I didn't get a chance to go searching.

I did have a bunch of balls sitting on the back of the drop target, though. Most times it's resting against the left side of the target and the ball guide. A bump on the side of the cabinet clears it pretty easily, but risks a center drain. I leveled the game using a digital level on the playfield, near the bat, so I don't think that's the problem.

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

GI... we've got 38 lamps in there, and if the premiums are used they are the "f'n brights" that are 4 SMD LED's... plus 2 of those are spots under the apron shining up the playfield. It's just dark art... it's what was requested by the license, so we did what we could to illuminate.

The GI is plenty bright, but the f'n brights don't really get a chance to point at the playfield. They're so low profile that they mainly light the plastics, though you do get some reflected light from the underside of the plastics. It's easy to change them out, and I'm not sure I'd be satisfied no matter what you chose. I'm pretty picky about lighting. The dark art does make the issue stand out more, but with good overhead lighting, the dark artwork looks fine. It certainly feels different than anything else I own, and that's part of the draw for me.

.
I have a few notes on gameplay as well.

House of 1000 Corpses is fun the first few times, but I'm starting to find it a bit lacking. I can't really aim at the multiplier targets all that well, and once they're collected, there's no reason to shoot at them anymore. There's nothing that I'm aware of to shoot for to get lots of switch hits (no spinners, pop aren't clustered, etc.). I just end up flapping away trying to keep balls alive.

It's too loaded with points to avoid, though. I can complete three modes and still end up with lower scores than one trip to HO1KC. The modes are where the fun is IMO, and I'd love for there to be a better reason to go for them.

Some of the modes are a bit ramp heavy. Despite one being timed and the other being avoid slings and pops, Dragula and Superbeast feel like the same mode to me. In Dragula, hitting the slings or pops results in time being chewed up, so the end result is the same. I think I'd like to see alternate shots being required, to collect gas or something, rather than just spamming the ramp.

I really like American Witch, how it makes you work your way across the playfield. Are the sling and pop hits clear when a shot is successfully made? It feels like I often get caught up in the slings before I hit the left orbit, then I don't have enough of a chance to complete the other shots.

I also like Dead City Radio, but I cringe every time I start to shoot at the 1 target. I've started shooting the ramp to get chop completed, hop the ball to the right flipper, then shoot the 1.

Demonoid Phenomenon feels like a wizard mode to me, and I've only come close to completing it once. It's a lot of fun, though.

What, I need to get a feel for the upper playfield before I can comment on it. I can't remember, are the shots carried over, or does it restart every time?

#5950 3 years ago

Is there any kind of shortcut for adult mode in the current code (v12)? I think I remember Fawzma saying he had to remove the flipper code. I'd be happy with something as simple as default to family mode, but booting with a flipper button pressed would set it to adult for that session.

Edit:

I found the reference to it being removed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international?tq=Flipper+code&tu#post-3236364

#5953 3 years ago

Great to hear you're working on it.

The timed settings are cool, but for my situation (and I'm guessing a lot of others), I'm finding that even if they were working properly, they wouldn't really work in practice. I don't know ahead of time when I'll be able to play without my son in the house. Often, it's when I come home from work to find that the family is out.

The flipper code would work in this situation, but it doesn't need to be as complex as setting a combination and being able to enter that combination at any time during attract to dynamically change the setting. Simply looking for the left flipper button being held when the game boots would work for me.

#5958 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Why not just have ADULT MODE = ON/OFF in the service menu? If you want to change it, you have to open the door. This way the man(woman) with the keys makes the rules.

That's the way it is now, but it's more steps involved when you need to switch it back and forth relatively often. We're talking about a shortcut here.

I suppose the menus will get easier to navigate as I learn them, but for now, I find them pretty confusing. Additionally, there aren't four buttons like I'm used to. There's only two inside the door, plus the flipper buttons, so it requires jumping back and forth between the two sets of buttons.

#5959 3 years ago

This may be coincidence, but it started happening at the same time I upgraded to v12. Attempt the skill shot, don't hit any switches and drain. The DMD says ball saved, but it doesn't kick another ball out. The game then goes into ball search for a while, then eventually the game recognizes it as a drain. My plan tomorrow is to revert to v11 and see if the problem goes away.

Edit:
This now says fixed in the release notes for v13, which is still in progress. Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to it.

#5977 3 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I also have an occasional trap happening somewhere under the upper playfield where I can't see the ball.

This turned out to be a narrow spot in the inner loop. I just adjusted the guide a bit, and it's fine now.

20160903_131414 (resized).jpg

#5980 3 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

What holds the upper playfield. I need to retrieve a ball some where under it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You have to remove the small flipper and two screws along the right edge. If you're completely removing it, you'll need to disconnect Spailding's wire as well.

#6023 3 years ago

I've never completed What! either, and I'd say more than 50% of the time, I don't even get a flipper on the ball. I'm thinking that adjustments to the VUK might help.

That reminds me, last night I got two balls in the VUK at the same time during multiball, and I had to remove the glass and use a magnet stick to clear it. No amount of shifting was able to get the balls into a spot where the VUK would clear the jam.

#6028 3 years ago
Quoted from dgarrett:

I complete WHAT almost every time. 6 qualifying lanes, 3 spaulding bashes = multiball. Maybe I'm missing something - perhaps there is the jackpot collect I'm missing?

I can't speak for Jeff, but on mine, the ball comes out of the VUK, then often bounces off the rail on the left of the playfiled all the way back the rail on the right, then races off the upper playfield without me being able to get the flipper on it.

#6033 3 years ago

Ok, I did manage to finish what this evening by digging the ball out of the drain with the tip of the flipper, then getting a rhythm. I also finished Dragula, SB, DCR, AW, and about half of DP. Now, that was FUN!

I played with VUK settings, but it's either too weak or I get a lot of bounce off the rail. I'm not sure what to do with it.

#6039 3 years ago

A few possible issues:

When a ball is sitting in the shooter lane, you can plunge it just far enough for the switch to open. The music changes like it assumes the ball is in play, although the ball is still sitting in the shooter lane. If you wait a few seconds, ball search kicks in.

I haven't been able to fully track this one down, but occasionally, I can plunge a ball and as soon as the ball leaves the shooter lane switch, the shaker rumbles and it says skill shot failed. Maybe there's a switch that is misadjusted and is getting triggered? I'm just not sure how to find out.

This is not a big deal, but I just have to ask. What's up with the double knocks? I have a knocker coil installed, and it knocks twice on a match or extra ball. Replay, I think it's only once, but I'm not sure.

#6043 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Fixed, will be available in V014

Awesome! Thanks.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

When this happens, go into the switch matrix, you may have a stuck switch.

I have looked, and the only switches closed when the game is idle are the trough switches. It might be a momentary switch closure due to vibration, but I'm not sure how to track that down other than going into switch test and banging on the playfield.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

You are welcome to suggest a change.

Historically, the knocker means you won a free game. On match, it's usually a single knock (single credit), and it's usually right at the moment that the match value is displayed.

For replays, I think it's right as-is, but I can't really remember whether it's knocking once or twice. Once is normal.

Extra balls, I've seen both ways. Some games knock, others don't. Whichever way you choose, it should probably be a single knock, based on convention.

Usually, games will also allow the operator to award credits for high scores. Often the number of credits is configurable for each position on the high scores list, and you'll knock for each credit awarded.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

with V014, adult flip code is being replaced with "Auto Adult" This is an option you can turn on or off in the main settings. When on, holding the left flip and start button at power up will turn adult mode on.

That will be awesome. I'm excited for the update.

Thank you so much for the attention to detail and willingness to listen to feedback. Like other have said, it's very refreshing.

I'm sure you're internally keeping a list of changes and assigning priority to them. The knocker changes are LOW, LOW priority. Anything you guys are working on to improve the scoring balance would be highest on my list. If you would prefer feature requests and bug reports sent somewhere else, I'm happy to do that instead of posting here.

#6053 3 years ago

Still tracking pretty darned close to linear.

Untitled (resized).png

#6067 3 years ago

I'm starting to like the stripped down, bleak look, so I don't think I'll be doing much to mine.

The previous owner installed a shaker and topper. He also gave me a knocker with it, which I installed.

I put Titan rubbers in it, but I left most of them black with a few red here and there. I'll be interested to see the orange.

I swapped out all of the LEDs and installed a LED OCD. I added a booze holder, and that's about all I plan to do to it.

I don't think I'm even going to add spotlights. With room lighting, I can see the playfield fine, and even without room lighting, I don't lose the ball while playing. I switched to Comet Frosted 2SMD Twin in the GI, and they spread more of their light across the playfield rather than directly at the bottoms of the plastics. I think this keeps my eyes from adjusting to the bright light as much and allows them to see the dark playfield better.

Oh, I just remembered anti-rattle tape. I need some badly.

#6069 3 years ago

I had thought about trying to print a modified drop target with a back that would help avoid balls getting trapped. After thinking through it fully, though, the ones that need a big shake are resting between the left edge of the target and the rail to the left. I don't think any shape would help in that case.

#6072 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

You would need to engineer a mechanism that had a spring loaded flap/wire that opens to block that area when the drop target was up.

More work than it's worth. I'll just continue to shake it loose when it happens. It's not too bad.

#6086 3 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Is there any way to mount a one-way gate (like used on the right orbit on SM and MM) there behind the left side of the drop target or would that block an orbit exit? It would probably need to be angled just a little if it were possible.

Interesting idea. I might look into it if the hangs end up bothering me enough.

#6114 3 years ago

I'm not sure what the technical limitation to font size is, but if that's the size you're limited to, I think the current font is better.

#6129 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Yeah. The spike ones have a fan in them and makes a lot of noise. I have never heard anything from my AMH or RZ.

My RZ does have a fan in it that makes a good bit of noise. Nothing bad; just normal fan noise. Maybe Spooky changed to a different power supply mid-run?

#6143 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

ok how about something as simple as adding curves

That's looks better to me, though a few numbers look a bit off. I'm looking at you, 5. What's the resolution of the WPC font?

#6148 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

one more.. 5 fixed and 1 changed

Nice!

It also looks like you've released v14.

#6161 3 years ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

Looks so much better, thank you!
One other thing.... in most pictures/videos, it looks like the very far left and right dots are cut off. The 'Y' in FREE PLAY and the '0' in the score are the most obvious in your pictures. Is it like that in person? Any way to move the dots over a bit so they don't get cut off? I'm expecting to get my game in the next couple of weeks.

Mine looks like that in person. It's like the hole in the speaker panel is not big enough for all of the display to be shown.

#6216 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

fixing that 5.. Other games look to use 5x7

I checked my games, and the one I was thinking of is mostly 4x5, with a few 5x5 and 3x5. I modified my own VID file, and here's an example. It looks a little weird due to the extra space between characters, but the characters themselves look good to me, probably because I've been looking at them for 25 years.

20160917_073832 (resized).jpg

#6252 3 years ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

Aright thx info everyone I'll be taken them off tonight

If you like the look, the metal and the plastic together is fine since the metal ones keep the plastic ones from touching the cabinet. I agree not to use the plastic ones as the only line of defense, though.

1 week later
#6279 3 years ago
Quoted from hAbO:

Who knew there would be this many RZ's within 10-15 minutes of each other with 2Kaulitz, oopsallberrys and myself. Herg & jints56 aren't far either. Not that big of a deal on a larger run but 5 out of 300 seems like a cool coincidence.

Jints doesn't have one now, since I bought the one he had. I do still have my original order on the way, and Jints may end up with that one, though. There's also a guy right across the street from me with one on the way. I think there's just a LOT of pinheads in the area.

1 week later
#6369 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Herg, you still around? how's that line chart look... inquiring data nerds want to know. looks safe to graph #150 as Halloween-ish.

Yeah, I'm here. After #123 was added, I noticed a big-ish gap between #119 and #123, causing a small drop in the build rate. Maybe that's when the family was visiting Disney.

Reminder: This is just for fun. Nothing official or accurate is claimed.

Untitled (resized).png

#6372 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I was told they were on vacation. I'm expecting mine (#120) to ship later this week.

Yeah, they posted pictures on Facebook.

2 weeks later
#6486 3 years ago

I have both the shaker and knocker in mine. I would recommend it if you like shakers. There are a few places it's used that I think really adds to the game; the lawn mower, video mode, etc. Others have said that the subwoofer is a good substitute, but I tend to disagree.

That said, if you don't really like shakers or want to save some money, I don't think you would necessarily miss it.

#6517 3 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Thinking I'll simply make those targets qualifiers. Hit them 2 times each then be directed to shoot left orbit to start the mode. If mode is ready, LDG mode select could be the first mode to be shown. If you want to start it, start it, if not; select something else.

Hmmm... I'm not sure whether I'd like that or not. I agree that LDG seems to be running a bit too often, but making too many modes selectable feels like it might make the progression a bit too predictable.

For LDG, I think I would like an approach similar to the optional Iron Monger rules on Iron Man. With this enabled, all 3 spinners can be used to qualify the MB, but only the center shot will start it. Maybe the LDG targets could qualify it, then right orbit starts it, regardless of whether you want it to. I'd love to hear comments from others who are better players than I am.

At first, I was thinking I would also prefer to not select the other modes, and instead have it be something similar to the ring modes on LOTR. Having them somewhat controllable, but through gameplay rather than a menu selection would be good from the standpoint of awarding skilled play. That would eliminate replaying modes and all of the infected stuff, though. I do like the idea of getting forced into playing all the modes over time.

It's tough to get all of this right, and I don't envy the job of game designers. If you get it wrong, you'll certainly get blasted for it.

#6533 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

How do these work? I agree that I haven't really once felt the need to hit the right side of the game.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but...
Hit the center target to collect letter and spell GEIN, FISH, or SATAN. Once you have spelled one of these, you can collect the card from the inner right orbit. If you collect three, you complete Murder Ride. I thought it also lit extra ball, but that might have just been coincidence. Three modes completed also lights extra ball, so Murder Ride might have just been my third.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also, what modes use the upper playfield? I'd like to check those out the next time I'm playing.

What! is nearly all upper playfield.
Demonoid requires you to hit the upper playfield switches to complete.
Nearly all the others allow you to hit the upper switches to increase a jackpot multiplier.

#6541 3 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

No, I believe LE has bronze powdercoat and the others are black.

The standard is not a normal black, either. It's kind of a silver-black orange peel textured powder. I really like it a lot, and I think it's a perfect fit for the theme of the game. I'm not sure exactly how it differs from the LE, though.

Edit:
It looks like the LE is a copper colored powder using the same texture as the standard.

#6544 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballlew:

So which model does the Pinballlife lockdown mod match?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4256

You can choose either one from the drop down menu.

#6563 3 years ago

One other extremely low priority bug. The attract mode lighting hangs while the last scores screen is being displayed.

1 week later
#6615 3 years ago

The decals do look great done that way, but what happens if they need to be replaced?

#6618 3 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Would you say that about the direct screened WPC cabinets?

I wasn't intending to criticize. I was asking since I didn't know. After thinking about it a bit more, I guess you'd just cut old decals along those corners and leave the pieces in the joint.

2 weeks later
#6692 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

Not sure why you would want to swap them all out.

Quoted from ATLpb:

thnks Ben- because I do my own thing

Same here. I went more pink with the LDG inserts. I used cool white under the American Witch, What, and others, since I thought the color was blown out using the color matched LEDs.

Quoted from hAbO:

What modes are the 2 upper right blue inserts used on?

If you're talking about the X inserts, those are mainly for House of 1000 Corpses to multiply how many corpses you collect per switch.

Quoted from hAbO:

On the end of ball bonus round up I see "Hand Jobs" but I don't know how these are scored

Shoot the ramp to qualify them, then the right orbit to actually collect.

#6737 3 years ago
Quoted from sensfreak:

Just wanted to ask this questions again: How many times do you have to hit Captain Spaulding before he moves over? I am just wondering if it an accumulative thing or if there is something wrong with mine.

Quoted from hAbO:

In "What" you have to collect chicken and gas then hit him 3x. During regular play I don't think he'll move over.

hAbO's answer is correct.

#6744 3 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

The feed from the VUK can be mean though ... it'll bounce off the guide and miss the flipper sometimes. . I had to start WHAT 3 times last night before I got to hit the ball with the mini flipper. All part of the skill/luck balance

After spending a lot of time messing with the coil settings, I added a guide to mine that the ball brushes on it's way down the VUK habitrail. It slows the ball just enough that it usually rolls down the left (chicken) lane. It's still a fast eject, and you still get random bounce, but it makes the upper playfield much less aggravating.

#6747 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Hey Harold, can you snap and share a pic or two?

Yeah, I'll post one this evening. The guide is a 3D printed part, so I'll post the file for that as well.

#6749 3 years ago

Here is a picture of the guide in the game. I plan to print one in black once I get filament.
20161206_171600 (resized).jpg

A picture of the guide out of the game, where you can see it better.
20161206_171737 (resized).jpg

It's designed to be a tight fit, but slightly wider than a ball. The path does not allow the ball to pass straight through, though. It has to get bumped a bit to at least one side, taking a bit of speed off the ball.
20161206_171832 (resized).jpg
RZ Guide (resized).png

...and finally, while I'm posting pictures, here's one of the unreleased LED OCD in it. I have a small number of them on order, and they will likely be ready mid-January.
20161110_170511 (resized).jpg

Oh, I almost forgot, here's a link to the STL file:
http://ledocd.com/RZ_VUK_Guide.zip

#6752 3 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Sweet! Does the OCD make much of a difference on this game?

To my eyes, yes. I may just be ultra picky, though.

#6760 3 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Just noting that the file worked for me and the print came out great. Still need to install it though.

I'm curious to see how it works for you.

#6767 3 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Is anyone else having weak shots to the inner orbit not making it out?

I had them a lot early on, but I found the cause:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international?tu=herg#post-3329829

I still have the ball get trapped up in there once in a long while, but I haven't been bothered to track it down.

Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Also, is anyone else getting funny tilts?

Yeah, it seems like I can usually get by with a big nudge, but quite often I see warnings that are completely bogus. Twice the other day just when the ball snuck past Spaulding to complete What. I've thought about taking the bob completely out to see if the "false" ones still happen.

#6776 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

They definitely still happen. No bob in the one I play and it phantom warns you all the time.

I've confirmed mine does this as well. I only saw it during multiball, but I only had about 15 minutes to test.

I tried poking around in switch test and couldn't find anything.

#6781 3 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

not quite a "fix"

That sucks. It's 95% or better on my game.

Quoted from twenty84:

I rerouted the cables so that the low voltage bundle that goes to the tilt bob was separated from the high voltage cables.

That kinda sucks, too. It's doable, though. Thanks for the info.

#6784 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

we made the running change in production.

Is there anything special about where you run the wires now, or can I just separate them somehow? Any chance of service bulletins for stuff like this? Thanks.

#6797 3 years ago

Well, I moved the cabinet I/O bundle from the right tube to the left and cut the zip tie holding it to the solenoid bundle. First time I played What, I got a tilt warning just as the ball passed Spaulding. I don't have ferrites to add, but moving the wires alone did not solve the problem in my case.

#6818 3 years ago

Anyone with cold feet (or just curious) that is in the area is welcome to come and play mine. It's a very unique game, and some people may not like it because of that. That's a big reason that I love it, though.

#6826 3 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

How about those two X targets just below it? I think those are even harder. Seriously, how do you hit those during that mode where you must hit every switch?

Agreed. I've gotten to the point that I can hit the right orbit about 1/3 times, but I have no direct shot at the X targets. Usually, I try to hit the right side of the chicken bumper and have it throw the ball that way.

#6844 3 years ago

I was lifting my playfield and managed to catch the Kitty Lovers plastic on the edge of the cabinet and break it. It was a good excuse to install the Liquors one, but I also wanted to protect it better.

The original bracket allowed the plastic to turn, so I made this.

20161215_181749 (resized).jpg

20161215_185837 (resized).jpg

20161215_190001 (resized).jpg

#6847 3 years ago

fawzmagames You got me spoiled with the rapid-fire code releases in the v12-v15 range. It's only been two months since v15, but I'm feeling the itch for v16.

#6894 3 years ago

It's a 7 ball trough, not that that makes much difference. My opinion is that they shouldn't count. Strategic draining is still in play, even without the trough switches being active.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

The phantom tilt thing is not because of files as we later found out.

I guess I'm going to have to buy some ferrites to try. twenty84, Did you use any particular value? Just clip-on without looping the wire multiple times?

#6916 3 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I am also waiting on the flipper code coming back for adult mode

The flipper code was removed, but there IS a button combo you can use at startup for a single session.

I also wanted to mention another awesome perk to buying from a small company. I asked Kayte if there was any way I could get a set of Red Hot plastics without the hole in them, expecting that there was no way. Well, these came in the mail today.

20161224_144650 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#7022 3 years ago
Quoted from princea56001:

How's the graph looking?

I haven't been tracking this as closely as before (fewer datapoints), but here's what I have.

Untitled (resized).png

#7031 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Thanks! Now I'm confused though

The harness that you see there originally ran down into the cabinet in the same cable organizer (plastic tube) as the coils. 2084 and I moved the switch harness to the organizer on the left side instead. The phantom tilts were still happening after I moved the cable.

I also added a ferrite to mine, but I isolated only the tilt wire as shown in the pictures below. I really haven't played enough since adding the ferrites to know if they fixed it.

20170102_143634 (resized).jpg

20170102_144255 (resized).jpg

#7069 3 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Sweet! Does the OCD make much of a difference on this game?

I don't want to spam this thread, but I just put together a video this evening.

#7075 3 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Hard to tell what it looks like in person from the clip. It's likely a bit better, but RZ has the best looking stock LED fade/smoothness I've seen (non LED OCD, etc.). I wouldn't expect the difference to be as noticeable as it is on older games with LEDs (I could be wrong). Certainly too much ball action on this game to notice anyway :p

The fades are good for a game that uses a lamp matrix. The main thing that bugged me was the flicker at the low brightness levels. I also like being able to control the brightness of the LEDs. I really don't want to drag this thread down with my stuff, though, so that's my last comment on the subject.

Quoted from PinJump:

non-illuminated start button without a credit

I'm thinking they said that was a hardware limitation. Something like they don't have control over the light.

#7080 3 years ago

On Facebook, Fawzma says that v18 is up on the Spooky website. He can't post himself, because he's waiting to be verified.

1 week later
#7129 2 years ago
Quoted from Ryanx0r:

Thank you whoever passed on 191! It will be shipping out to me this week. Very excited to have my own after playing it at SFGE and the local barcade.

You're welcome. A friend had #69, and I decided to shortcut my wait when he decided to sell. Congrats on your game.

#7152 2 years ago

You also have to clear the X targets during Demonoid Phenomenon.

#7170 2 years ago
Quoted from sensfreak:

I have started the What mode a number of times and when Spaulding moves over and the ball goes in the hole and falls to the playfield, it doesn't start multi-ball. Is there something about the mode that I am missing? (e.g. do I have to shoot the ramp or the left inner loop, etc before the multi ball starts?)

That should be enough to start a 2 ball. I suggest checking the switches near the playfield exit.

#7185 2 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

When you get to work in the morning and your husband decides to tease you by sending you a pic of what got delivered after you left this morning. #longday :p

Feeling sick?

#7187 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCreature:

Hi everyone
My RZ pinball is on the way soon and I'm super excited. I signed up for all the mods straight from the factory, and I already have the laseriffic topper waiting here at home. Wanted to know if anyone had come up with any other mods beside the aforementioned factory direct ones and these:
RGB interactive Lockdown Bar
Pingulps
Pinblades (does anyone have video or photos of the pinblades installed in their RZ?)
Mezel Mods TV (bloody)
Also - I want to keep this thing in mint condition. Short of not playing it, what do I need to do? Cliffys? What else? Any protective measures I can take, I'd like to.
Finally - where does everyone get that special non-glare glass?
Thanks for helping me out with my first home machine.
-Creech

My #1 suggestion would be plastic protectors if you didn't get them factory installed.

#7196 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

no schedule will be made, as they will ultimately not be met.

Thank you for the honest answer.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

The only commitment I'll make is, I won't give up on this or any of these other games till we truly feel they are done and rules are implemented as designed.

From what I've seen of AMH, I can only believe this is true. The game is good as-is, and a few tweaks could make it very good. I hope you won't leave out some of the nitpicky issues like the knocker firing twice, etc. Of course, this could already be addressed, as I'm still running v15.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

the ball hitting the flipper then flinging back up.

This does seem to happen more on RZ and AMH than any other game I can remember playing. My AFM, for example, a full speed shot around the orbit can hit a held flipper and the flipper doesn't budge. The ball will bounce off the rubber, but the flipper itself doesn't move. Is the hold coil the same size and voltage as WPC games?

#7202 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

I've also nailed down the phantom tilt issue, this will also apply to the flippers as well.

Whoa! I was still very occasionally seeing the phantom tilt even after adding ferrites, so this is welcome news. What was happening with the flippers, though. Were there people who had flipper buttons get false closures?

#7210 2 years ago

Is anyone working on a headphone adapter?

#7220 2 years ago

I've never written coil control code, so I'm really just trying to learn here, but why would a hold coil that was properly sized need to be pulsed? Stern pulses theirs, but that's because it's a single coil, right? Certainly, old games before solid state control simply have a switch that applies power. Are coils pulsed in WPC games?

#7223 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

I've tried pinnovators, Lorenzo, and the gang periodically on this. Good guys! But unfortunately far as I know they've focused their efforts on other things.
I'd love to have headphones for this. It's the single most applicable pinball game ever to benefit from headphones with the amazing music and vulgar adult mode callouts

I'd really like to have headphones as well. I'm not sure how much I'd end up actually using them, but I'd love to have the option. Maybe I'll take a look at what it would take, if I can find the time.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Hold coil it separate and needs to be pulsed to hold. Pulse too long and you start blowing fuses (or burn up the coil), pulse too short and the flipper won't hold up strong enough to keep EOS contact. I'll keep testing, maybe I can find a better happy point. Maybe I can use a 80/20 ratio, instead of 70/30

Quoted from herg:

I've never written coil control code, so I'm really just trying to learn here, but why would a hold coil that was properly sized need to be pulsed? Stern pulses theirs, but that's because it's a single coil, right? Certainly, old games before solid state control simply have a switch that applies power. Are coils pulsed in WPC games?

I did a bit of research. RZ uses FL-11629 coils, and the hold coil is 132 ohms. I still need to research the coil power source for RZ, but on WPC games, it's 50VAC off the transformer, through a bridge to make ~70VDC.

Ohms law: V = I * R
70 = I * 132
I = 0.530 A

I don't see why the hold coil would have to be pulsed. That IS about 35W that would generate heat, but it shouldn't blow fuses.

Edit:

A look at the AMH v22 source, shows there was code in there to pulse the hold coil, but there was either a bug or hack that would prevent it from actually pulsing. It is setting the I/O high when trying to turn off the coil. Maybe it has been fixed since then, or maybe RZ uses something completely different. I'm just curious.

if (LholdTime) {

if (LholdTime == holdTop) {
digitalWrite(LFlipLow, 1); //Switch hold ON.
}
if (LholdTime == holdHalf) {
digitalWrite(LFlipLow, 1); //Switch hold OFF
}
if (LholdTime == 1) { //Almost done?
LholdTime = holdTop + 1; //Reset it
}
LholdTime -= 1;
}

#7229 2 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Just about every game since EM inception has separate fuses for flippers only. Are you saying that other circuits share the flipper fuse? That's problem #1.

Quoted from FawzmaGames:

are you 100% sure about this?

For WPC-95, it definitely is somewhat true. They all share one, but also have individual fuses.

F108 Solenoid Secondary T6.3A - this goes to all of the coils, including the flippers, but there are individual fuses
F115 - F118 Flippers T4.0A - one for each of the four flippers
F102 - F104 Solenoids T4.0A - one for each bank of 8 solenoids

#7231 2 years ago

A closer look at the RZ docs, and there are actually 3x 3A fuses for the coils. One fuse goes to each of the 3 solenoid connectors on the board. The flippers are spread across two of the connectors, so they do not share a fuse, but things like slings, pops, trough, autolaunch are also on those connectors. The shaker is not on the same connector as either of the flippers, so there's a plus.

#7236 2 years ago

Sorry to harp on the subject, but I found another reason the flipper hold is weaker than WPC.

On RZ, coil power is supplied by a Meanwell SE-600-48 switching supply. It outputs 48VDC, which is used to power the coils.

So, RZ: 48VDC being pulsed at 70% duty
WPC: ~70VDC held on solid (100%)

#7239 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

If the hold is an issue why not offer a harness that supplied fresh separate fused power and a setting in the code to provide 100 percent power.

I'm not sure that a new harness is necessary. Granted they are bringing 48V into the board on a single Molex KK 0.156" pin (or similar, I don't know what exact part). Those are typically rated at 7A per pin. The power supply is rated at 12.5A. Since there are 3 parallel 3A fuses, it's possible for the input pin current rating to be exceeded, but it would have to spread across all three solenoid banks. If it were my design, I'd rather have two or three pins for the input power, or at minimum, put a separate fuse (maybe 5A or 6A) on the input. Maybe there IS a fuse on the input somewhere and I've just missed it.

The 3A per bank seems conservative to me. You would NOT want to increase those without a separate fuse on the main input, however. Again, there is a single pin per bank being used to supply power out to the coils, but here, it's spread across the 3 banks.

Even with all of that considered, I don't see where keeping the hold coils on 100% would cause any issues. Knowing now that the input power is 48V, the current for a hold coil would be closer to 0.36A (360 mA).

Having them working like they are now is really not that big of a deal. It's not like it keeps me from enjoying the game, but do think it could easily be better.

Edit:
Oh, and before I forget. I want to check the wire gauge. Mine has a single wire running from the supply, through the interlock, then up to the board. At a glance, it looked like 18AWG, which seems a bit small if the only fuses are the 3 parallel ones on the board.

#7241 2 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Are you saying the 12.5A supply is fed by a single 18AWG?

It IS a single wire. Well, actually one supply and one return. I am not positive on the size, which is why I want to check. It sure looked like 18AWG, though.

#7243 2 years ago

The printing is too smeared to read, but what's in my game looks and feels like 18AWG to me. It probably doesn't matter much since the connector is likely the weak point.

20170206_214610 (resized).jpg

20170206_214851 (resized).jpg

#7282 2 years ago

I updated to v19 tonight, and the flippers are active during video mode.

So far, the flipper hold feels much better. I was hoping for 100% all the time rather than only for five seconds, but this might be an ok compromise.

#7285 2 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

No its not accumulative like that...a coil doesn't wear out. The resistance changes as it gets hot that's what causes weakness. But once it cools it's back to normal. You can't equate a 20 minute hold to even a 2 hour use with on and off duty cycle.

I didn't read Fawzma's message as if he were saying the coil was wearing out. What I read was that if you held the flipper at 100% for 20 minutes, it would start to weaken due to heat. With the pulsing, it doesn't get hot enough to weaken. In either case, it would recover as the coils cool down.

Let's say I'm in LDG and trap a ball on the right flipper. After 20 minutes of shooting jackpots with the left flipper, I finally decide to drain. I might not be able to shoot the left orbit using the right flipper because it would be too weak.

I guess what I keep coming back to is that these same coils were used in WPC games, the hold was 100%, and the coil voltage was higher. I don't see problems with those games weakening during play, but maybe that's because I'm not a good enough player to trap that long.

I really want to get more playing time on the new code before I make a final judgement on the new scheme. It really felt better during the one game I played last night, and honestly, I'd rather see the rules tweaks than more flipper driver adjustments. I just want it to be the best game it can be, and one complaint I have (or had) is that the flippers get knocked down too often. Oh, and the knocker still fires twice for an extra ball.

#7287 2 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Yes I understood what he was saying. My point is who holds a flipper for 20 minutes in a game. There's almost always some duty cycle involved. If you're trapping a ball for 20 minutes then either your a masochist or a pinball wizard or both because that would be boring as hell

Gotcha. I agree, but I understand the "better safe than sorry" mentality. They are being cautious with the flippers, and I'm guessing it's partly due the issues they had a while back with fuses blowing. I'm sure that was another issue, but I can understand it making them gun-shy.

#7313 2 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

Anyone else with a RZ have any issues with the ball getting stuck in the orbit behind the drop target? For me, it only happens when it circles the orbit very slowly. It also get stuck HARD. I have to lift the pf in order to free it. Any suggestions? I think it might be getting hung on on a switch but I haven't checked that yet.
Similar to every other NIB pinball I have bought, there are a small number of tweaks required to get the game dialed in. Some folks freak out over this (drama queens) but I just make the adjustments and go back to playing.
Starting to understand the rules a bit more, and as expected, the game keeps getting better and better. The taunts by Sid Haig are hilarious...Hands down, this game has the BEST call-outs of any pinball to date (IMHO).

Yes, there are a couple of reports in this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international/page/120#post-3329829

#7317 2 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

Thanks.. Looks like all I need to do is adjust the guide a little bit..

In my case, yeah, I just bent the ball guide slightly.

1 week later
#7389 2 years ago
Quoted from Zsozso:

They said it is my fault

They, the shipping company, I suppose?

#7481 2 years ago
Quoted from Leachdude:

Warm quad's in the inserts

I really like the way the mode inserts look with white under them rather than color matched. I used warm white under a lot of them, but I did also use cool white under "What" and "American Witch". I also used color under a lot of other locations, such as ice blue under the locks and pink under the LDG targets.

1 week later
#7538 2 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

Does this still work in version 19?

Yes, I can confirm it still works as long as you have it configured in the menus.

Quoted from PersonX99:

Hellbound?!?!? I'm not even close... I have a hard enough time with American Witch. Avoid the slings.....not easy, but a fun challenge.

Closest I've been is everything but American Witch and a HOTC completion. Somehow I played HOTC twice and still didn't complete it, then I missed the third ramp shot during AW and drained out.

2 weeks later
#7675 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

49 minutes before you asked for it.

Unless I misunderstood, that was just a list of things that will be in it. It has not been released yet.

#7731 2 years ago

So, no new v20 code to play with this weekend?

#7733 2 years ago

Nope, there isn't a GI OCD for it. The GI hasn't bothered me in the slightest other than being dimmer than I would like. I haven't noticed any glare from the backbox lighting (I have standard glass), and glare from the backbox on other games is something that really does bother me. My AFM was terrible before I used GI OCD to dim it, and I have Arcade Upkeep backbox kits in my Stern games.

I personally don't think a GI OCD is needed for RZ, but it would be cool to have the option for dimming built into the game.

#7738 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Upload a picture if you get a chance. I'd like to see warm whites with the game.

Many of them were warm white in my game when you played it. There is video on my page and earlier in this thread.

If I remember correctly, I have warm white under Demonoid, Superbeast, Dead City, H1KC, Red Hot, CHOP, 123 skill shot, and 123 targets. Cool white under What, American Witch, Dragula, LDG, and Murder Ride. Ice Blue under 123 Locks, and other colors here and there that I can't remember for sure.

#7744 2 years ago
Quoted from 30FathomDave:

I don't own a RZ (wish I did), but I'm picking up a translite that I'm going to display in my horror-themed game room. Does anyone know the dimensions offhand?

Mine is exactly 27 x 20, as is the backglass in my game, but Blimpey says the first one he built a Swapbox for was 27-1/8 x 20-1/8. I'd recommend waiting until the translite is in hand before building any frames or anything like that.

#7768 2 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

where did you get the LE translight?

Email Kayte and tell her you want one.

1 week later
#7862 2 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Okay, so my robot hasn't turned at all in a while. Now what?

With the power off, try to turn it gently by hand. This will ensure that it's not hung on something.

Next, I would check the servo wires to make sure they're plugged in and that they haven't been cut. They do run close to the pop bumper ring.

If all of that looks good, you may have a failed servo that you would need to replace.

1 week later
#8017 2 years ago
Quoted from huo:

My friend has a RZ. The upper playfield gets barely any playtime on it because the vuk spits it out quick and it usually ends up going to the right without giving the flipper a chance. Any tips to make this play better?

As others have said, try adjusting the coil strength. On mine, I still couldn't find a happy medium, so I made a 3D printed bracket to slow it down. That works well on my game, but other have tried the same one and said it didn't work for them. If someone comes up with a reliable solution, I'd love to hear about it.

#8030 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

RZ UPDATE V020 - ***COMING SOONISH****

You're such a code tease.

1 week later
#8097 2 years ago
Quoted from davijc02:

I'm with you on your comparison. I've played a lot of games on the hobbit and have had some fun but it's mostly just ok. The playfield is rather barren in my opinion. For the longest time I stayed clear of woz just based on theme but damnit that game is fun and good looking. One day I think I would like one sitting next to my RZ. What a strange and combo that would be lol

You mean, like this?

20160918_094426 (resized).jpg

My Tron makes some weird electrical interference that was getting amplified through RZ's sub, so I've swapped WW and RZ since this picture was taken.

#8101 2 years ago

IMO, RZ and WOZ are a great 2 game combo. They're so different that between the two of them, you get a lot of variety. Going directly from one to the other is kinda jarring, though. Kinda like getting out of a hot tub and jumping in a pool, in the middle of winter.

#8107 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

does anyone else have the Shaker? When is it used?

Shoot the ramp, then the right orbit. It shakes when the lawn mower goes by. That's the most noticeable place that I can think of. It's used a good bit, though, and it's pretty strong on my game.

#8128 2 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

Anybody have any general tips on this game? I've had it for a few weeks now and it is difficult for me to even make the left orbit to start modes.. let alone finish them once I do start them.

Keep shooting at the left orbit until you can make the shot. If you can't, you're screwed. Well, I guess you could shoot the LDG and/or
drop targets all day long, but that gets really boring.

2 weeks later
#8351 2 years ago

I agree the robot was more of a pain in the ass than it looks. I ended up widening the slot in the bumper cap so that I could get the servo in place, then slide the cap into place.

1 week later
#8434 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

The update puts a timer on that selection now, so you'll get forced into MB after a while.

Is there still incentive to actually shoot for the right orbit to start the MB? It would really suck if the change makes it so people just trap and wait or shoot safe shots until the timer expires.

#8439 2 years ago
Quoted from outcida:

Murder Ride Sign.

On those rare occasions where the ball gets behind the upper PF flipper, will it fit between the sign and the PF, or does it create a spot for the ball to hang?

3 weeks later
#8604 2 years ago

Well, I tried to update this morning, and it looked like it only copied one file. When it restarted, it said the code version was 48 and wouldn't start. Oh, crap.

So, I brought the SD card back to the computer, and some of the files were missing. I'm copying all the files again, but I'm not sure if I can initiate another update since the game won't start. Any trick?

#8605 2 years ago

OK, I found an earlier message about holding Prop_config while booting the game. It seems to be working so far. Fingers crossed.

Edit: Yeah, I'm back up and running now. Lots of new stuff to see. I just need some time to play and maybe someone else to play while I watch.

#8719 2 years ago
Quoted from FawzmaGames:

Funny, and that's after the callout was reduced before it was released.
I can change it to only call out when superpops starts.

I wouldn't be opposed to completely removing it, myself. To me, it doesn't feel like it fits the rest of the game. Plus, it's not like you're going to shoot at the pops on purpose.

#8750 2 years ago

My wife was playing this evening, and she basically shoots up the middle all day long. After 6 ramp shots, the RHPL callout got old really quickly.

#8796 2 years ago

Well, yeah, but I'm not telling HER that!

Seriously, it repeats the same callout EVERY time you shoot it after the right orbit is ready.

Pussy Liquors is the best
Pussy Liquors is the best
Pussy Liquors is the best

3 weeks later
#8945 2 years ago

Is it just me, or during Ho1k, do the X targets not show your multiplier in v20?

3 weeks later
#9103 2 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

I'm thinking it should be like that any way...It's "Ball" save, not "Balls" save. Usually when a ball save is activated, it goes away. Not active for subsequent balls.

Multiball is an exception, not only in RZSSI, but in other games. Often, you will have a short time where balls are continually saved during multiball. RZSSI adds another wrinkle with the CHOP save. With that Spooky will have to set the precedent, I think. I'm not aware of another game that has a similar feature. I guess a kickback is the closest I can think of.

2 weeks later
#9183 2 years ago