How did they do it with fawzma? It wouldn't surprise me if they already do just that. What would be better is if they could outsource the code to an owner who also codes, but there might be a lot of red tape for that.

Crossing my fingers this will be good. Traded for my RZ in the hopes that the code would get fixed.

Having bought my huo rz at a good discount I would love to find a hobbit for the same. People who buy nib need to realize they need to be in for the long haul. Code can take years, even from stern. Code doesn't always get finished either.

That all said I really would love if the changelog got updated to reflect anything in the new version. It does provide positive feedback to customers that things are happening.

Its not just hobbits. I am waiting to hear about a houdini that I put an off in on. Those are dying on the vine it seems. Ghosbusters does not seem to be doing so hot either at the moment as well. Then there is the jjp pirates that is down to 9k in the market. Its all new games, it is almost like the market came back to reality and stopped paying new prices for used machines.

Updated to v24, but game keeps spitting out balls. Maybe a setting changed I wasn't aware of or maybe it suddenly developed a trough switch problem? Anyone had this? Otherwise will probably dicker with the trough when I get the chance.

I spent a good half hour on it. Pulled the balls and started hammering on the pf, but couldn't get any switches to act up. All of them are closing when expected. Loaded the balls hammered again, all switches solid.

Reset the software to factory defaults, have not had an issue since. Odd, but its working now and going from version 22 to 24 was a nice change. Now need to fix the murder ride switch as it pulls out of the slot and the ball gets hung up. Also need to do something about the mode start vuk. A hard shot to it results in the ball coming back down the orbit.

The vuk launches fine. The problem is if you make a shot to the left orbit. A good, solid shot. It will go up, and it ends up bouncing off the side or bouncing off the ramp. In either case a good shot which should go into the vuk tends to come right back down the left orbit. It is very frustrating for people.

Thanks, will give that a try when I get done getting the latest additions setup.

Alright, upgraded to an le this weekend.
Game now has the following mods:
Apron LCD Screen
Demon Ride Gate
Knocker
Shaker Motor

Still thinking i want to add the lighted lockdown bar mod, topper, and lit speakers. Anything else that I should look into?

Funny thing is so far I haven't ordered anything for this game. Just the mods from the two machines I bought. Hundreds in mods and I got a good deal on both games with the spare already gone.

Shows score, player number, and tells you what the objectives are as well as how close you are. So for superbeast it will show how many beasts you have vs i think its little red riding hoods. Its actually really helpful for new players to know what to shoot for in a given mode. It is however unfinished and if I had paid the 300 or so that it cost I'd be pretty unhappy because of that.

At 200 I would have to see one in person first. I am thinking of maybe adding his gas station and ball stop mod fixes. Spine ramp would also need to see. The gas station would fill a very empty spot on the pf, the other two might make things too busy, but that is my taste.

Also, why is the le on this not listed separately on pinside? Different backglass, different color hardware (found that out this weekend), cutouts in the rails.

Spiderman black is the same. LOTR LE, same since people figured out swapping the pal chip lets you use a shaker motor. So it stands to reason that the le should be a separate listing.

Had a friend over last night and figured out why I get so many rejects from the mode start vuk. The ball is hitting the bottom of the vertical upkicker wireform when you make a solid shot to the left orbit aka mode start shot.

How to resolve?
Options:
Move the ramp closer to the vuk, ball should clear the wireform before hitting and thus not bounce back out.
Sand or use acetone fumes to melt the ramp and smooth it out. Could be hitting a bump and getting airborne.
Reposition the wireform so that it is higher, least favorite option, but an option.

Also, a note for spooky. Throw away your double sided tape. I get that it was a cheaper way to put the game together, but it does not make for a serviceable machine. For those that do not know, the rails have one bolt near the lockdown bar, rear of the rails are drilled for a bolt, but it was not installed, instead they used double sided tape. The le's have less of this tape due to the rob zombie cutouts, which btw the colors you see through the rail are a piece of paper taped to the back of the rail. The ballguide for the left orbit has screw holes but uses double sided tape tape. The ramp for the mode start some are just double sided tape, mine has a screw and double sided tape. Comparing AMH to RZ it is obvious lessons were learned, but would love to get my hands on a acnc or tna and see if they finally moved away from this cost cutting measure.

Different tastes, but think pinstadiums ruin it personally.

I'd be interested in looking at the code. Just wonder what language it was done in. Pretty sure ben open sourced the boardset and basic code, just haven't had a reason to dig into it.

And that open sourced os would tell you what the language used was... Has nothing to do with who wrote the game specific code.

What it is written in matters because it adds another hurdle. Having the source is great, but if it was written in say assembly I still wouldn't touch it because I don't have the time.

I do. Had a mint LE and a mint AMH. I kept the amh. I would like it back at some point, but needed funds at the time and it was easier to replace than my other games.

I was, not sure why that was so hard to get? We are in a thread dedicated to Rob zombie and there was an LE.

No, your droning on is all it takes for anyone to fall asleep reading this.

I think the rankings are probably a bit skewed. The harder it is to find a game the lower in the rankings it is. Even more so if a game does not do well when it first comes out and is on route. I think RZ suffers from this some in its reputation. Jetsons and Dominos are even harder to find and AMH is also one very few have played.

Having torn apart amh and rz, build quality is, poor. Spooky seems to have learned from AMH to RZ. They used good quality materials and then cut massive corners.

If I had to sum up RZ and AMH, double sided tape. The rails are secured by a bolt in the front, and double sided tape. They did not use the bolt in the rear near the head. This is after tearing apart 1 amh, 1 rz, 1 rz le. All the same. RZ the rear ball guide has screw holes, but is held in place with double sided tape. The rear ramp to the vuk has double sided tape, but it looks like later ones have a screw holding it on as well.

AMH is a pain to work on. The game doesn't use posts. It uses screws with sleeves, for everything. This makes taking anything apart a pain because you have multiple levels of sleeves and plastics to get into place. RZ if memory serves got this right. Both have terrible aprons. AMH's is too thin and bends when you lift the playfield. the corners on it dig into the playfield scratching it up. Neither block the ball from falling back into the cabinet or apron. RZ's is just too easy to damage.

Now as for rz being more complicated, they just used servos. Ben heck even stated if he had a do over they would have moved away from it. They are fragile and prone to failure (I have only had to replace one so far on amh). AMH also required a lot more fixes by the community than RZ. S

These?

http://www.kimballspinballs.com/spooky-pinball/