I have to do some troubleshooting today as it was a 4am finish of the mod install the other night when things went haywire. The added mods are from Tim (they look great). My question is if I find out the added mods tipped the scale so to speak, how can I add these and/or additional mods by gaining additional power without taxing the machine to the point of dysfunction? Ive never had an issue with Stern (ie my Tron) and that is loaded with mods.

I disconnected the mods and still no difference. Measuring the 5v at the board (per Spooky technical support) was the same with or without the mods connected so I'm assuming they are small enough. Sometimes I can get it to boot with the screen credits and Rob saying, "OH YEAH!". Then the screen starts showing garbled characters. The playfield appears to be functioning normally while this is happening. I am getting a bunch of speaker hum too I should mention that wasn't there before as well. I am getting an SD card error even after trying to reformat and copy and paste the firmware back onto card. Spooky recommends getting a new SD card to try next.

Make sure it's at least a class 10 SD card. I have used slower which seemed to work ok, but others have had issues using a slower SD card than what came with the game from the factory. Safest bet is to make sure it's fast enough.

I wonder if I'd be better off just ordering my own card from Amazon that is newer/faster than the original SD card.... not sure how that would affect functionality as the Spooky tech instructed me to get an identical size/speed card which is why I emailed KT about getting direct replacement from them.

Speaking of mods... (that won't take out your power supply)

Over the weekend we had some people over and we decided to drop a powerball into Rob Zombie because we're masochists. Now one out of seven balls is absolutely nuts and House of 1,000 Corpses mode will never be the same. My wife grabbed a quick video for snapchat so you can see for yourself. Now if only we had 6 more powerballs floating around the house.

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Nice, maybe some glow balls would be better in the dark.

I emailed support late tonight, but I'll ask here as well.

Anyone have a link to the amp and sound cable? I may need one before the weekend gets here

Never mind. It's just a regular AUX cord. I had it in my head it was a different cord

Reminds me of something my machine did. After installing mods my game started resetting like crazy. Removed mods and it was still resetting. Game was acting like power fluctuations were to blame or maybe a bad CPU. Measured output voltages on the power supply at 5.4vac and 12.1vdc. Scratching my dead, totally stumped. Then I located and fixed issue and no more problems. Thanks bye.

Oh you want to know what the fix was? The 5vac had a connector crimped on its end and this gets inserted around a screw and is screwed down firmly. The crimp failed and connector was screwed down but the exiting wire was floating and had came loose. But barely loose so you couldn't see until when I touched wire and it came off. Since the connector was bad I threw it away and stripped 5vac wire and wrapped it around the screw and screwed it down firmly. Amazing what a good connection can do for you. I added all mods back (which also plug into 5vac screw) and all worked as expected and no more resets. One bad connection literally made the game unplayable and it was dumb luck that found it. So check your continuity DrMark12PA

Where was your bad connection located? I'm trying to figure out where I could start checking continuity. I do have a replacement SD card on the way from Spooky as well

Bottom of cabinet find your mirrored power supply. Peel back warning sticker. You'll see 5vac, 5v ground, 12 VDC, 12v ground and maybe something else. I tested my 5v and 12v there. They were both clean and consistent, but the 5vac is where most mods plug into. That is your converted source of power. If you get low power on 5v there is one knob to turn. It adjusts 5v and 12v, but you want 5v to be about 5.2v.

In my case the wire coming out of 5v wasn't secure nor receiving the 5v. By stripping my wire and wrapping it around the screw, I was bypassing the connector and ensuring a good connection. If there is a way to read 5vac at your mod you'd confirm it was getting adequate power.

I just put the new SD card in game KT sent.  The picture I'm sending shows what the display showed.  It appears I was on V22 before. Now it seems like the game boots after a long delay but I'm still getting alot of speaker hum and when I go into the menu it jumps back out of the menu and restarts. The second photo shows the screen following reboot after going into menu to adjust options.

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DrMark12PA I sent you a PM.. you are seeing v22 on the first boot because the version hasn't been set yet. When the game fulling boots it will set the version and you should see V23 the next time around.

I did get the update done correctly. Holding one of the blue buttons on the board and then powering on did that. However, I'm still having huge issues..
I cannot get it to play and any attempt to go into them menu causes a reboot. With startup it takes a significant amount of time then it will give an SD card error, screen goes black, then reboot. Sometimes the game display comes on for a bit then it restarts the cycle over again.
I've checked everything I can think of at this point.

I can't help with your current issue, but Alice uses a different (aka better) board set. Spooky switched from the Heck boards after RZ and uses Multimorphic's PROC boards for TNA and ACNC.

There is a reason... just send the board in and we'll update it correctly for you free of charge.... ACNC is on Proc.

Can't beat that offer, wrap it up and send it in. Board will likely be repaired and returned in a week or two.

I will say Spooky tech is second to none.... Chris responds even at like 11pm!? Good luck getting this kind of service at Stern if you can even get a contact to ask a tech question at Stern.
Mr. Fawzma has also been extremely helpful so I'm moving forward with more troubleshooting.

That sucks man! I can’t imagine spooky ignoring all these issues if you’ve contacted them. I’ve got #295 and have had no issues. Best of luck with it.

I am happy to assist you if I can. You can reach out to me at [email protected] if you like.

The first thing I am going to ask you though is "What version software are you running?"

The current game version is rev.22

http://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/

The next thing would be to make sure you have the factory sd card (or one exactly the same class and size) installed in the game. If so, then remove the card, format the card on your computer, and reinstall the latest software. Please follow the instruction on the Spooky website listed above.

Let me know (either here or preferably via email as to not clog this thread) if this helps

Christopher

Last email I have from you is a bad trough coil on January 15th, 2017.

Blanking out sounds like an SD card error... if you've updated the code lately, it may be formatted wrong. If it's just flaking out, try a refresh of code.

We're always here to help! Chris is fantastic at his job.

I'm wondering if anyone here has both the RGB lockdown bar mod and the RGB speaker LEDs mod installed. If so, do both of these mods use the same connection on the motherboard?

I have the RGB speaker LEDs, and they come with a connector to tap into the existing RGB wires and keep the original RGB signal in tact. I don't have the RGB lockdown bar but it would have to use the same type of connection to the RGB signal. I am thinking they can both piggy back off each other since they are built as a pass-through connector to keep the original RGB LEDs in tact.

Ok, got my board back from Spooky (lightning fast)... looks like my issue is definitely servo as I've now disconnected both temporarily and game is working. So later today's project is to figure out which one (should be fast enough) then replace.

Unrelated question, I didn't think my already installed shaker was working and tested in menu, no shake. So I just pulled the fuse on the shaker board installed on the bottom and it's blown. Not sure how that happened but has anyone here had any issues with shaker fuse blowing?

Also, I did install the LED lights piggybacking off the lockdown RGB mod. I used a cable mount to support the extra weighting so as to not put stress on the board pins.

I had one shaker fuse blow in a year and a half. I was beta testing some code for fawzma and thought it may have been related but it turns out it was just it’s time to go

Is this a slow or fast acting 5 amp fuse? It's very difficult to see the markings

I believe it was a slow blow but I’m not 100% certain and I’m away from my game for a few days.

I called PinballLife and it is a slow blow fuse.

I've gone through about two fuses on our shaker. It's been solid for the last seven months or so.

Got my machine up and running 100% perfectly now. Indeed, it was the Spaulding servo so I replaced that thanks to the help of the Spooky team. Their customer service is probably better than any company I've ever dealt with in any product.
Getting the servo out was a bit of work. The upper playfield has to come up, the vegetation molding had to come off, upper flipper removed. I adjusted the servo so there is no risk of the end points banging into anything and causing issue with the servo again. I'm just wondering how much a servo can take before frying out as I'm sure the issue was my Spaulding toy had loosened and I had taken it off to secure it and I'm sure I misaligned the gate causing the servo to go. I assume once a servo goes out it's done and any attempt to put it back into a game would result in problems again due to voltage irregularities.
One question I do have (since I did order a robot servo replacement to have on hand as well), is the robot supposed to shake at times during the gameplay? I've noticed he does a little shimmy motion from time to time and want to make sure that is normal gameplay and the servo banging into something.

I'm glad that you got your game figured out. It was driving me nuts. I only happened upon it when I touched Spalding and my game shut off.

Can someone describe the correct functionality of the robot in the game? I am trying to figure out when he is supposed to move and how much so I know my servo is in proper position. When in the test menu, he appears to swing to face the right side of the game when ROBOT END position is selected. When I select ROBOT START he faces the player but shakes which I believe is the result of improper adjustment. However, I can't seem to adjust him in the menu, only Spaulding has adjustment options.

Sounds like your servo might be going but it's hard to say without testing. I had a similar thing happen to my Rob Zombie table only the robot would shake on boot and then when you started a game it would shake until a pop bumper was hit. A new servo fixed the problem and it's been solid for a year and a half now.

Contact Spooky support and they can help you troubleshoot and test the servo.

[email protected]

I'm trying to figure out what is normal for the robot. I'm not sure when he is supposed to rotate during gameplay and such...

When you go to the upper play field he should turn 90 degrees to be looking at the upper playfield . He also does do smaller movements during game play. Home position is facing the boom box .

I've done a Cliff's Notes compilation on rules and this is so far what I've compiled for the most basic functions of the game. I'm trying to remember the RHPL mode and what you are supposed to spell (see @@@@). Please feel free to add....

LIVING DEAD GIRL
Hit each coffin 2x
Hit each coffin 2x each for 4 rounds
*Each round gives extra ball

1000 CORPSE
Hit drop down target followed by shoot inner loop 3x
Hit 1000 switches
*Hit top right targets next to right rail to increase corpse multiplier

MURDER RIDE
Hit center target to spell "GEIN", "FISH", "SATAN"
Hit right inner orbit to collect each card after spelling
After collecting all 3 cards, hit right inner orbit to collect MURDER RIDE
Additional hitting right inner orbit scores 2 million per hit for 20 seconds

@@@@Red HOT PUSSY LIQUORS
Hit center ramp 5x to start mode

MAIN MODES (hit left orbit to VUK)
Hitting targets on upper playfield to increase jackpot bonuses not involving upper playfield (timed)
*completing 3 modes lights EXTRA BALL

1) DRAGULA
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
Hit center ramp to spell DRAGULA -> DRAGULA completed
1) shoot left orbit to start DRAGULA video mode
- use flippers to hit characters on screen
2) shoot right orbit to start jackpot mode
-shoot Living Dead Girl targets to advance jackpots, collect via center ramp
-hit top right targets to collect car parts - once enough collected Spaulding invites you to upper playfield to get gas, hit gas targets for 250k
*starting jackpot mode first you get extra ball, but no extra ball if you start video mode first

2) AMERICAN WITCH
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
1) hit left orbit x1
2) hit center ramp x3
3) hit right orbit x1 ->AMERICAN WITCH complete
Extra Ball lights up
Multiball starts (6 balls)
Jackpots earned from shooting center ramp and right orbit
*hitting LIVING DEAD GIRL targets resets pops and slings

3) SUPERBEAST
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
Hit center ramp 5x without hitting any targets (hitting pops ok) -> SUPERBEAST complete
Sneak attack = Shooting left orbit ->secret passage->completes mode
*3 ball multiball earned upon completion

4) DEMONOID PHENOMENON
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
Hit everything lit up including upper playfield (17 total switches) ->DEMONOID PHENOMENON complete
*each switch hit adds to timer
*every 20 seconds ADD A BALL will blink, max of 4 balls on playfield
*mode is restartable so previously hit switches are remembered

5) WHAT?!
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
Hit chicken 3x, hit gas can 3x
Hit Spaulding 3x (gate opens)
Shoot gate --> WHAT completed
Multiball starts
Submodes
1) Red Hot Pussy Liquors@@@@@@@@@
-shoot right orbit in 20 seconds
*hitting center ramp restarts 20 second countdown
2) Spaulding Hurry Up
-shoot left orbit
-shoot open gate
6) DEAD CITY RADIO
Hit left orbit to VUK, select mode
1) hit CHICKEN left target 1 (under boombox)
2) hit BIGFOOT center target 2 (left of center ramp)
3) hit MONKEY right target 3 (extra/add ball target just over outer lanes) ->DEAD CITY RADIO complete
4) Multiball starts
*hitting out of order restarts
Once complete mode restarts but you can hit targets in any order.
Each completion collects character (CHICKEN, BIGFOOT, MONKEY)
Clearing top right 2 targets to the right of the upper right pop bumper earns GODZILLA
*3 chances to complete
*2 ball multiball

*** if you beat a mode and play it again and fail-->INFECTION
70 seconds to hit 3 lit targets to resolve infection. Failure causes everything to die and ball drain

***completing all 6 modes starts HELLBOUND

I got both my speaker light mod and lockdown second hand and missing the special board connectors. Short answer is yes. If you have the lockdown mod it has two spots for rgb hookup on the breakout board. One for playfeild and one for back box rgb breakout. Lockdown goes to playfeild lights. But you can change it. Some light kits use a different breakout connectors but changing it to a four pin .156 is pretty easy. I had to make my own harness based on the breakout board info supplied by Pinball life.
The speaker light mod was a disappointment. It simply sandwiched inbetween the speaker and panel. I just finished installing my own custom speaker mods. I’ll be selling my original ones eventually.
Here’s a picture of the custom ones I made.

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Hi has anyone come up with a successful fix for the right upper playfield switch to prevent it from continual damage from the ball. Tried insulation tape but didnt last long seen another post way back where someone suggested making a guard but if the ball hits the switch then I would assume the gaurd would trap the ball? Has anyone tried to raise the playfield & why are some machines not affected, different switch used ? Thanks Darren

Is there a way to turn off high scores. every game i play i have to put in the high score. EVERY time. every day i play i have put my initials in?

also is there a way to turn off the loud annoying " you ain't never going to stop me" at the end of the game? I hate it that screams at me super loud. I think it was different in code. because when I was on version 19 it didnt do that.

Triple A for the first game each time I turn it on for the few times I've been able to play it, does your switch get damaged

On v23 you can shut off the low score initials and the put your initials in screen comes up a lot less

v23 low score - off is default.

Nice, because I get the low score way too often.

tell me more about this version 23. I can only get 22 from the spooky page?

Yeah why is it v23 never came out officially? I recall v22 introducing an issue with the trough ball eject that my game has and it’s probably been a year since that code came out

Probably in testing. Last code update really changed the game. Love the continued support for this pin.

It's not finished and fully tested. I got the impression Fawzma wanted to do one big update to address all the stuff, rather than just finish what's already in v23 and then do another one. Plus he's obviously run off his feet with ACNC.

All resources are being used on ACNC.

Hit fawzma up and im sure he’ll send it to you - it’s solid -
Ive put it on 3 RZ machines