Thanks FawzmaGames . Much appreciation.

I decided to light up the FC&G sign. EL panels aren't "too bright" like LEDS so this isn't distracting in the upper play field. An easy mod to do because EL panels are easily cut. Fits directly to the back of the sign. I was even able to punch through the panel for the screw holes that hold the sign to the post. Plugged in the 12v inverter and we are all bright n' shiny.

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Yes it happened to me a couple of weeks ago....it was during ho1k multiball and I didn't notice them gone until balls drained and game went into ball search...found two in the vuk. Wonder if ball search could amp up the power of the vuk solenoid to get them out.

I have had this happen once, have had the machine for a couple months now.

This happened to me too.

if the balls are laying side by side the VUK post may not hit them, or if to many balls get in there it ends up being a jammed mess that no amount of ball search can clear.

I remember Charlie saying there is a lot more to come with the code on this game. Going forward code becomes such a crucial factor on how a company is perceived. Unfinished code just stops people buying future titles. But, the game is already good and finishing the code, whatever the timeframe is so important for everyone.

Oh, the mod on the robot. The shining green light. Is there a way to disable it easily? Thinking ahead!

In my case, there was one on top of the other. Probably related to the previous poster, as I too often have situations where it takes 4 or 5 attempts for the VUK to send a single ball successfully up to the upper PF.

I'm testing a higher vuk power in ball search only to see if I can clear out a stack in VUK.

I think Charlie mentioned only a small amout of callouts they have available are in the game at this point.
Hopefully we'll see more of this soon.

WOZ will fire the crystal ball VUK softly but rapidly in succession if it can't clear a jam.. something like this may help RZ, if firing rapidly could cause one of the balls to bounce back over the little ramp and into the main playfield area again.

For those having trouble with the VUK clearing just one ball, make sure the plastic ring the ball sits in is not cracked or warped. Buddy here had an LE with a cracked collar, and the ball sat a lil off center and failed the kick 4/5 times. Might be worth replacing the collar with a metal one if the plastic wants to crack.

On my robot I took him off, took off the pop bumper top and moved that LED to the backside. SO much better now. he has a little glow under him, and there isn't anything shining in my face.

Could you show pics when you get time? Thanks. Totally thinking of doing this.

So last night I fixed up my switches (one under the upper playfield got bent) and made an adjustment to the VUK switch. I was getting balls landing in the VUK and just not kicking out. I bent up the last 1" of the long switch lead about 15 degrees so the ball will engage it better.

After tweaking those I played the snot out of the game for a couple hours. I concentrated on getting 4x before ever starting a mode and if I didn't complete it I concentrated on getting 4x again before finishing the mode. This helps with the scoring, but I still found my biggest scores came from concentrating on LDG and 1000 corpses. There are just a lot of points there especially if you can complete a couple other modes with them, but you definitely can't ignore them.

I was able to get 36 million points which was a new high for me. I believe there were 5 modes completed, but I got excited and didn't pay enough attention at the end. Which got me thinking it'd be nice at the end of the game if when showing the score it would also scroll what percent of which modes were completed. That'd be a nice feature that I think would be a little unique.

Still a blast of a game to play. This weekend I'll be adding my topper, ordering an EL panel for the sign , and adding mirror blades and my shaker.

Sure thing, I'll take some after I get my blades and stuff on this weekend. Not sure I'll be home much tonight or tomorrow night.

I suggested ages ago that it would be awesome in a future update if modes have their own high score tables at the end - like songs in AC/DC etc. Fingers crossed a lot

Turn up the vuk coil power?

what version are you running? because there should be half steps in the coil setting to help get t just right.

Give the coil setting a try

Just spotted this.
https://m.facebook.com/SpookyPinball/photos/a.206562386071663.51865.196751743719394/1383762755018281/?type=3&source=54

I'm curious why they couldn't all be put in right away? Why the slow rollout?

Good effort completing 5 modes, but you should be getting way higher scores after all that work.

(Were the modes complete? Could you choose them again when the mode menu came up?)

Check out this post and see how I worked out some point scoring.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international/page/146#post-3585808

Going on that, and chucking in some LDG multiballs, you should be around 60-80m I reckon.

rd

I put up this score tonight . Ball 1 and 2 were great , 5 modes completed. Picked up the extra ball for modes completed on ball 2 , I was really thinking I was making a run for hellbound . And then the extra ball and ball 3 were awefull . This is why I love this game , It always keeps me wanting more . A nice score but a repeat of ball 1 and 2 and it would have probably been double that .

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Not sure.
But anyone know what the sound is when the ball hits to the right of the living dead girl targets? It sounds like a demon or zombie chomping and there is a corresponding animation. And it seems to get triggered non stop. Does it have any value towards game play?

LDG targets are switches 29 and 30. They will play a thumping sound like a nail being hammered into a coffin.

To the right of them is a switch for the rattle area. That is the sound of Spaulding doing his yah,yah,yah sound like from the 1000 corpse movie. Those ring up a bone rattle score and gets multiplied by the add bonus switch at the end of the ball.

If I remember hearing Charlie correctly when I went to pick up my machine a few weeks ago, he shared with me there is a ton of recorded call outs they still plan to use and much more they want to do with the code to make it one of the best playing pins ever. He also mentioned a heavy focus on Dominos and The Jetsons prior to TX, then David would be able to shift more of a focus back to working on RZ. But David and Charlie could speak to it better then my recollection from a few weeks ago and my excitement to get my machine back to play.

thanks! you are on top of things.
Everything has a purpose and so many rules!

pretty much this ^^

I was able to work on RZ since I didn't have a Jetsons to work on, and I kept on it this week since I didn't want to give up the momentum. I'm working on a new tool to help choreograph music/sounds with the playfield.

Next week, I need to fix a bug in Jetsons found during TPF, then going back to RZ. I want to make enough changes to RZ that will make everyone want to upgrade. Then, I'll port everything done in RZ over to JET and DOM that isn't game specific.

So, no new v20 code to play with this weekend?

I know there is LCD OCD for RZ (which I'm about to order), but is there a GI OCD? Is it needed?

If not, does the game dim the backbox lights during play on its own? That's one of the features I'm most interested in with GI OCD to reduce the playfield glass glare.

Nope, there isn't a GI OCD for it. The GI hasn't bothered me in the slightest other than being dimmer than I would like. I haven't noticed any glare from the backbox lighting (I have standard glass), and glare from the backbox on other games is something that really does bother me. My AFM was terrible before I used GI OCD to dim it, and I have Arcade Upkeep backbox kits in my Stern games.

I personally don't think a GI OCD is needed for RZ, but it would be cool to have the option for dimming built into the game.

I do not see much glare on my playfield glass. Ohh wait I have invisaglass on mine.

I also have the LCD OCD, it's awesome. I filled the game with warm quads from pinball life. Everything except the red arrows. It looks awesome. The warm whites keep the color artwork looking good on the playfield.

Still running v15 but question about the use of flashers, as each appears to be tied to an individual gi. The flashers are going off a lot during game play and this should be toned down to either signal when something should be attempted or as a celebratory occasion. Bottom line having them flash for no apparent reason is confusing and not helpful. Am I missing something?

The red one in the left orbit strobes when you need to shoot the left orbit to start a mode. They both flash during a multiball. MB ends = flashers go off.

Upload a picture if you get a chance. I'd like to see warm whites with the game.

Many of them were warm white in my game when you played it. There is video on my page and earlier in this thread.

If I remember correctly, I have warm white under Demonoid, Superbeast, Dead City, H1KC, Red Hot, CHOP, 123 skill shot, and 123 targets. Cool white under What, American Witch, Dragula, LDG, and Murder Ride. Ice Blue under 123 Locks, and other colors here and there that I can't remember for sure.

A couple pages back I posted quite a few photos of my machine.

I don't think I completed 1000 corpses so probably only completed 3 + LDG (completed) now that I think about it. Also my multiball after dragula was a complete failure... Now that TPF is over, I can spend more time playing instead of prepping I'll take some time to go read the rules and figure out where the jackpots are for the modes. I'm sure I left a lot of points on the table for that.

I've never gotten anywhere near 60-80m...

If that's the case thats awesome and Im definitely looking forward to hearing more call outs.
Fawzma and Spooky you guys rock!

Sweet. 298 is getting closer.

I don't own a RZ (wish I did), but I'm picking up a translite that I'm going to display in my horror-themed game room. Does anyone know the dimensions offhand?

Mine is exactly 27 x 20, as is the backglass in my game, but Blimpey says the first one he built a Swapbox for was 27-1/8 x 20-1/8. I'd recommend waiting until the translite is in hand before building any frames or anything like that.

Right on, man. Thanks!

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Funny you ask, because I noticed the other day that the Pinball Zombies translite is smaller than the one on my RZ but the LE translite I have is actually larger. Made me curious if the guys with LE machines have a cut down version of the art or if it was reduced in size a little bit or...?

I would imagine the art was created and the translites were printed with a bit of bleed around the edges (which is normal). Then the backglasses were printed with the same art to make sure it bled over the edges. Now the translites could have been cut to the background size (removing the bleed) or cut to the artwork edge. Often if you don't specify they will cut to artwork edge which is on the outside of the bleed area.

There are real backglasses on the game so translites were also made?

Yeah you could purchase a translite. I have a non LE RZ, so I bought an LE translite just to use like a poster.