The beauty is that you can adjust all to your liking. I suggest very loud on the volume. Try playing around with them till you find your own sweet spot and enjoy this bad ass game.
The beauty is that you can adjust all to your liking. I suggest very loud on the volume. Try playing around with them till you find your own sweet spot and enjoy this bad ass game.
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Sounds like your switch got wired backwords. Had the same problem on mine. Those 2 switches are mounted in opposite directions, so from the underside view the wires should be opposite as well.
Also the ball hits the underside of the gasoline switch and shorts out the legs...causes exactly what you see...take off the upper playfield and bend the switch back.
twitch.tv/melbournesilverballleague
For those interested some Rob Zombie game play streamed out of my room. All first time players of the game and everyone loved it and had a lot of fun.
This game really does work well as a multi player, packing in plenty of great fun challenging game play and a lot of laughs.
Quoted from rotordave:I think you'd find 99% of orbits use a normal switch, no different to RZ.
I think the switch is too high spring tension, and the lever type doesn't help.
I am pretty sure I have a new stern type round lever switch at home, I'll grab it in the weekend and swap it over and see what happens.
rd
Apologies on the delay ... I've been getting pins ready for Pincade.
I didn't have a round switch in my stash, unfortunately.
So today I pulled out the stock lock switch and had a look.
No different in spring tension to the other switches I have. A round wire would definitely be better imo but I played with the stock one with my long nose pliers for a while, and got it working sweetly.
Played 4 games concentrating on locks and didn't get any hangups back there.
If I didn't live at the ass end of the planet I would have ordered some round wire Stern type switches, but alas, I am, so we make do with what we have.
rd
PS pic is of the work in progress, switch ended up looking a little different.
Quoted from robertmee:You know, I don't think anyone put 2 and 2 together, but we should have, as your games came in a box, and weren't shrink wrapped like that.
mine came from factory shrink wrapped with no box. I know this because I picked it up that way
Quoted from maddog14:mine came from factory shrink wrapped with no box. I know this because I picked it up that way
Ok? Surely you see the difference when shipping one to Germany, vs Picking it up in your vehicle.
Quoted from Leachdude:I have a question regarding the C H O P inserts. They do not seem to cycle properly all the time. When I have 1 remaining to light most the time the unlit insert will move left with the left flipper and right with the right flipper. Once in awhile it seems to mess up and not go in order on the C and the H target. Anyone else experiencing this issue? I am running code 19. Sounds like a big to be, I would not think this is on purpose.
It's doing the same thing for me on occasion.
Quoted from Leachdude:Fix you airballs on the #2 target by removing the foam and putting a post rubber behind, worked great for me!
This totally fixed the #2 target! Thanks. I have only got one airball since, from the slings throwing the ball back and forth at increasingly high speeds.
Quoted from RavagedUnicorn:This totally fixed the #2 target! Thanks. I have only got one airball since, from the slings throwing the ball back and forth at increasingly high speeds.
I also turned down the sling power a bit, it was getting to crazy at times!
So I did a RZ launch event last weekend for my pinball meetup. RZ was played almost continuously for about 6 hours. The only issue was a ball caught under a sling, but this was my fault because I put in star post leds and have yet to install the tighter Titan rings I purchased (they came in 1hr before the event started). Everything else was perfect, and the crowd LOVED the game. Most of the folks have never played the game and there were a few funny reactions from the call-outs.
You can check out the video on twitch (twitch.tv/flipoutnh)
Quoted from PersonX99:So I did a RZ launch event last weekend for my pinball meetup. RZ was played almost continuously for about 6 hours. The only issue was a ball caught under a sling, but this was my fault because I put in star post leds and have yet to install the tighter Titan rings I purchased (they came in 1hr before the event started). Everything else was perfect, and the crowd LOVED the game. Most of the folks have never played the game and there were a few funny reactions from the call-outs.
You can check out the video on twitch (twitch.tv/flipoutnh)
What version used?
Quoted from FawzmaGames:What version used?
I had just updated to V19 a few days prior.
I just installed V19 last night (been a rough week) and it plays great and install went easy.
While playing I did get a ball stuck on top of the robot pop bumper and I noticed the ball search didn't try to move the robot. Might be something worth adding. I'm going to try and add a small spacer or rubber nub there so it won't get hung up again. That was a first so I don't think it's a big priority, but pretty sure if the robot would have moved, it would have knocked it off.
I did notice one time that I had three chop lights lit, missed the fourth chop, but I got a ball save anyway and the other three lights didn't go off. I may have gotten a save from something else, but really think I was awarded a chop when I shouldn't have been.
Quoted from pinballkim:personx99 what star post LEDs did you use? The ones at pinball life say they will not work on spooky games.
I have used those from PBL in the past and I think they would work on Spooky games. However, in this case, I used those from my new favorite LED provider, CometPinball. They are not only less expensive, they offer "matrix" plug n play for "easy installation". I totally hacked apart the connectors to make them more efficient (less wire) and I used a much smaller wire which is easier to conceal (nobody likes a wire mess, and the folks at spooky did a great job dressing the wires in RZ). I used the red LED star posts to create a deeper tone of red on the pf. I did not want a "super bright" playfield.
FYI, for those who like to "mix it up", substitute warm-white 4-smd leds in the smaller round inserts. Because the inserts are multi-color, the warm white has an interesting effect on the insert colors as well as the overall look of the pf. The "chop" inserts really show with warm-white. As always, leds are personal preference...I just wanted to share my experience.
Quoted from PersonX99:FYI, for those who like to "mix it up", substitute warm-white 4-smd leds in the smaller round inserts. Because the inserts are multi-color, the warm white has an interesting effect on the insert colors as well as the overall look of the pf. The "chop" inserts really show with warm-white. As always, leds are personal preference...I just wanted to share my experience.
Would love to see a pic of this.
Quoted from PersonX99:FYI, for those who like to "mix it up", substitute warm-white 4-smd leds in the smaller round inserts. Because the inserts are multi-color, the warm white has an interesting effect on the insert colors as well as the overall look of the pf. The "chop" inserts really show with warm-white. As always, leds are personal preference...I just wanted to share my experience.
Funny you mention this. I just did all my inserts with pinball life quad warm white led's and an LEDOCD board. The warm white reall does bring the color out of the inserts. Looks good IMO. Now I just have to tweak the LEDOCD board a bit.
I'll post some pictures later.
I am still getting mine dialed in. Has anyone tried spring washers on the solenoids. To take out some of the slop on the coils? Or are you just bending the brackets they don't all have sloted holes.
Quoted from PersonX99:I have used those from PBL in the past and I think they would work on Spooky games. However, in this case, I used those from my new favorite LED provider, CometPinball. They are not only less expensive, they offer "matrix" plug n play for "easy installation". I totally hacked apart the connectors to make them more efficient (less wire) and I used a much smaller wire which is easier to conceal (nobody likes a wire mess, and the folks at spooky did a great job dressing the wires in RZ). I used the red LED star posts to create a deeper tone of red on the pf. I did not want a "super bright" playfield.
FYI, for those who like to "mix it up", substitute warm-white 4-smd leds in the smaller round inserts. Because the inserts are multi-color, the warm white has an interesting effect on the insert colors as well as the overall look of the pf. The "chop" inserts really show with warm-white. As always, leds are personal preference...I just wanted to share my experience.
I couldn't see star post led's on Comet website. Do they go by a different name?
Quoted from Dutts:Has anyone ever tried the Fire effect LED? Might look good under the slingshots/ pop caps
Heads up on "fire effect LEDS". They work, and the effect is good. However, they are using red and yellow leds, which are the least bright of the led colors (especially yellow). You would see a great reduction in playfield illumination. These leds are great when you don't need a lot of light, but want the "fire effect". {Just my experience and my opinion}
**this does give me and ideas for a "brighter" fire led using the 5050 strip leds... to the laboratory.....
Quoted from Dutts:I couldn't see star post led's on Comet website. Do they go by a different name?
post lights.... Product code: MTXPOST
Can someone tell me the difference between the standard and the LE? I'm sure it's in this thread...but it's 150 pages...
Quoted from NightTrain:Can someone tell me the difference between the standard and the LE? I'm sure it's in this thread...but it's 150 pages...
Came with a plague and different Armor and Back Glass, I think on the last two.
Quoted from paulywalnuts23:Came with a plague and different Armor and Back Glass, I think on the last two.
No plaque...just a small plastic fob. But yes, different Armor and different BG.
My Rob Zombie Photo Shoot.. Quad LED's in the GI, Red and white. Warm quad's in the inserts at 80% with the LEDOCD board. Added 2 spot lights (one on each sling) Mirror Blades. And Invissaglass.
Quoted from Leachdude:Warm quad's in the inserts
I really like the way the mode inserts look with white under them rather than color matched. I used warm white under a lot of them, but I did also use cool white under "What" and "American Witch". I also used color under a lot of other locations, such as ice blue under the locks and pink under the LDG targets.
What are you guys doing about the glass rattling? It's pretty bad on my machine with the sound at a decent level. Anti-rattle tape? Where might one buy that? Home Depot?
Can you guys tell me if I can hook up an external sub like on my Stern pins? Won't hurt anything right?
Quoted from NightTrain:Can you guys tell me if I can hook up an external sub like on my Stern pins? Won't hurt anything right?
Yes on the sub, that will fix your glass rattle.
Quoted from robertmee:Ok? Surely you see the difference when shipping one to Germany, vs Picking it up in your vehicle.
easier to see damage. lol
Quoted from NightTrain:What are you guys doing about the glass rattling? It's pretty bad on my machine with the sound at a decent level. Anti-rattle tape? Where might one buy that? Home Depot?
Give it time. Mine did this as well pretty bad. But after playing it kind of just settles and quits. Either that or i zoned it out. lol
Quoted from Leachdude:My Rob Zombie Photo Shoot...
That's all ya got?!
Thanks - nice looking RZ! I'm not a member of this prestigious club yet, but I hope to be as I'm really liking this game so far.
So a couple of things on mine.
1 the dead city radio prop and the base below it broke. Most likely from a airball. I found the screw to the base. looks like 2 screws hold it on. But the base wouldnt take the screw back. I gave up on it. Then i couldnt figure out how the radio itself is mounted to the base. Almost looks like two magnets but i dont think it is. Also my living dead girl keeps twisting so shes facing backwards. I turned her back but she just went right back around again. Other than that and a few stuck balls ive had no issues.
Waiting for the v.20 update. Hopefully the scoring to the game changes up a bit. Like most others i dont find myself shooting for the video modes much at all. Every right flipper play you have is more worth while going for LDG or H1kC. So its seem pointless. Also the left orbit at least for mine is a very tough shot. And also a deadly shot if you miss. So video modes would have to have a huge upgrade in points to make me want to shoot that. But it definitely needs it because the game needs more diversity. Also get rid of the superpops counter. Everytime i look up for info on whats going on all i see is superpops. ugghhh!
Quoted from bgwilly31:So a couple of things on mine.
1 the dead city radio prop and the base below it broke. Most likely from a airball. I found the screw to the base. looks like 2 screws hold it on. But the base wouldnt take the screw back. I gave up on it. Then i couldnt figure out how the radio itself is mounted to the base. Almost looks like two magnets but i dont think it is. Also my living dead girl keeps twisting so shes facing backwards. I turned her back but she just went right back around again. Other than that and a few stuck balls ive had no issues.
Waiting for the v.20 update. Hopefully the scoring to the game changes up a bit. Like most others i dont find myself shooting for the video modes much at all. Every right flipper play you have is more worth while going for LDG or H1kC. So its seem pointless. Also the left orbit at least for mine is a very tough shot. And also a deadly shot if you miss. So video modes would have to have a huge upgrade in points to make me want to shoot that. But it definitely needs it because the game needs more diversity. Also get rid of the superpops counter. Everytime i look up for info on whats going on all i see is superpops. ugghhh!
My radio broke off as well, and the holes were too stripped to remount as-is. What I did was put a few drops off wood glue into the screw holes to fill them, then after it dried I reinstalled and haven't had any issues since. As I remember it's only the 2 screws mounting the radio to the plastic underneath but you must remove the plastic+radio assembly first to access them.
I agree the superpops animations needs to be made less prevalent. Some of us have already stated this so hopefully FawzmaGames has taken note to include in a future update.
I streamed some games on my Rob Zombie last night:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/125709682
Check it out, like, follow, blatant shilling, etc...
Quoted from NightTrain:What are you guys doing about the glass rattling? It's pretty bad on my machine with the sound at a decent level. Anti-rattle tape? Where might one buy that? Home Depot?
I've used high quality black electrical tape (doesn't show when wrapped carefully) to deal with rattle and slide. I don't like the idea of the glass sliding out of the game on it's own.
Quoted from PersonX99:I've used high quality black electrical tape (doesn't show when wrapped carefully) to deal with rattle and slide. I don't like the idea of the glass sliding out of the game on it's own.
What brand did you use? Do they have it in a LE version like the flipper tape?
Quoted from Leachdude:Yes on the sub, that will fix your glass rattle.
Can you recommend a descent sub to use?
Decided this game is so kick arse that I will splash out and get the shaker motor. Really hanging for scoring to be evened out and jackpots to be displayed. This will be a killer game once code is finished so much so that I feel it will become quite sought after, as it just plays so differently to all modern games.
Quoted from extraballingtmc:I bought a shaker and returned it. Turn up the sub and it shakes plenty already.
But it doesn't shake when a shaker would. A sub is no substitute for a shaker motor that's programmed to enhance the gameplay experience.
Quoted from extraballingtmc:I bought a shaker and returned it. Turn up the sub and it shakes plenty already.
The shake of the sub isn't really cutting it for me. I know how good a real shaker feels and the sub definitely does not substitute. Plus I will more than likely put in an external sub and maybe new amp. I having trouble with the amp, left channel always cuts out even after trouble shooting all cables, soldier and connections.
Quoted from Dutts:Decided this game is so kick arse that I will splash out and get the shaker motor. Really hanging for scoring to be evened out and jackpots to be displayed. This will be a killer game once code is finished so much so that I feel it will become quite sought after, as it just plays so differently to all modern games.
Good choice. Get the knocker too! Pinball Life has both.
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Good choice. Get the knocker too! Pinball Life has both.
Yeah, got it...Loud sucker!
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