Thanks for the pics. You know I'll order an OCD if you sell any.

To my eyes, yes. I may just be ultra picky, though.

Personally, I wouldn't bother in a game designed with LEDs. I do recommend the pinball refinery lighting kit to brighten things up.

Im hoping in one of the code updates that the "Super-Pops" animation can be shortened. Frustrating in 1000 Corpses and other modes because its so prevalently displayed.

Got the call today, it's gonna be a spooky Christmas.

Not showing as an stl file for me.

Just noting that the file worked for me and the print came out great. Still need to install it though.

RZ GUIDE (resized).jpg

Hmm, I'll have to try again tomorrow.

Did you unzip it?

I'm curious to see how it works for you.

I've went all the way with this one,All factory upgrades,Bill acceptor door(This game will be in public in Klamath falls,Oregon),Knocker and shaker kits from pinball life,Got the last topper available from lazeriffic(Thanks again for cutting loose with it!).Just about $7200 for all the bells and whistles plus delivered.Thanks Spooky,No flipping here!Merry Christmas!

I love this game but the right orbit is just so dam hard and I suck to boot any advise

Anyone install the Tilt Game Blades? I am just wondering if they look good in the game. What are the thoughts on these things? Do you think they make ganes look better?

The right orbit is arguably the toughest shot in the game. My advice is to practice, not sure anything else will really help. I've got a couple hundred games down and I still find it to be a pretty tough shot. I don't like easy games though!

Ordered waiting on pin to install, have them in both AMH and Met. I think they make it look better. Here's pic of AMH..

IMG_0071 (resized).JPG

Is anyone else having weak shots to the inner orbit not making it out? This happens on mine and we either have to knock it free with another ball or tilt the pin from the side. A little shake or a slap won't free it.

Also, is anyone else getting funny tilts? Mine is finicky. I've seen death saves with no tilt and then very undeserved tilts. It seems like it's adjusted correctly. I've observed the bob and once it gets going it keeps going. It decays very slowly.

I consider these fairly minor issues. Overall the pin has been very reliable.

I had them a lot early on, but I found the cause:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rob-zombies-spook-show-international?tu=herg#post-3329829

I still have the ball get trapped up in there once in a long while, but I haven't been bothered to track it down.

Yeah, it seems like I can usually get by with a big nudge, but quite often I see warnings that are completely bogus. Twice the other day just when the ball snuck past Spaulding to complete What. I've thought about taking the bob completely out to see if the "false" ones still happen.

They definitely still happen. No bob in the one I play and it phantom warns you all the time.

That is good info for Dave to have.

I personally have not had tilt issues, but since you mention it decays very slowly there is a simple fix that I've heard great results about and will consider trying some day, applies to any game: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-slam-tilt-podcast#post-3411791

That's not right. You may have a wiring issue. Mine came with Gas switch wired backwards. The white/grey wire was soldered to the wrong end. Understandable mistake since the Chicken and Gas switch are mounted in opposite directions. Anyway, that one mistaked caused lots of malfunctions and false activity with the other switches in the row, including the tilt, drop target, trough, etc. Once we identified the problem during switch test it was an easy fix and all of the problems ceased. We still get the occasional funny tilt, not nearly to the same degree. It may just be an adjustment issue now.

Try testing the other switches in the same row or column as the tilt. See if any one triggers another on the switch matrix. On mine the ball trough switches would go blank when I pressed the gas switch. Looks for stuff like that. Charlie can email you the switch matrix guide.

Can't say I've ever seen that ...

As NorCal says, maybe check the other switches in the row.

rd

Anybody else having having an auto launch issue during multiball modes? For instance when I start 1000 corpses, only one ball is in play and one sits in shooter lane. When that ball is launched, 2 are in play and another ball is added to shooter lane. Launch that and another ball is added to shooter lane. I thought there might be a new setting for auto or manual launch during mb. It is extremely difficult to manually launch all the balls with everything going on, and not drain any balls. This might even be a nice option to select on purpose too, but for now I think something is amiss. BTW - this happens during other multiballs too. Could it be a fuse is out?

Check your shooter lane switch. Launch should fire as soon as a ball lands on it.

rd

Does anybody know if wpc or stern mirror blades fit on rz? I can modify them abit if needed.

I've confirmed mine does this as well. I only saw it during multiball, but I only had about 15 minutes to test.

I tried poking around in switch test and couldn't find anything.

I've been investigating that for MONTHS. Just today Jose (tilt graphics) told me his gameblades for RZ are based off of WPC. I get my game in a cpl wks.

Yes. Mine would get tilt warnings all the time but they didn't seem to be triggered by the tilt bob. I would see them during game play but not in test mode. When I initially emailed support about this I was told that it was thought to be a software issue. I later looked at the voltage across the tilt bob with an oscilloscope. This is a 3.3V signal that is grounded when the tilt bob hits the ring. When the game is in operation there was a lot of noise. In my game the cables for the tilt bob were routed (and in some areas tightly bound to) the same wires that were carrying high voltage to the solenoids. I rerouted the cables so that the low voltage bundle that goes to the tilt bob was separated from the high voltage cables. In addition I put a ferrite core on each end of these cables. This greatly reduced the noise and eliminated the issue.

It could fit a bit better on the rails, but I tested it to an extent. I was previously running my VUK at power (4), but that could at times lend the ball to not making it all the way up the tube, yet it would allow use of the upper field when it did. At power (5) the ball would come up the tube too fast and make the upper field unusable (but always make it up the tube the first try). The 3D part added on power (5) does help make the upper field usuable a good chunk of the time, but perhaps not quite a "fix" compared to power (4) without it. I may mess with a bit of custom shaping/fitting and see how it works then. It may be that there is an easier way to achieve the same effect (non 3D print).

The AMH one's work
https://pinballsidemirrors.com/product/special-regular-mirrors/

I ordered some during black friday and will install when I get my game in a couple of weeks

That sucks. It's 95% or better on my game.

That kinda sucks, too. It's doable, though. Thanks for the info.

The amh ones have a cut out on both sides for the side mounted leds dont want that on RZ.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-mirror-blades-fit-on-amh

As soon as you made me aware of this... we made the running change in production. Then I think I (or at least should have) asked if you were moving to Benton?! Seriously... VERY smart catch, and silly of us to have done in the first place.

We literally learn something here every single day, and much of it comes from people taking the time to email and ask questions or point things out. I NEVER take offense to those suggestions.

Here's how I see things... AMH was good, and we're all proud it made it out, but man... starting from nothing in basically every aspect (but working CONSTANTLY) was tough. Ben's code work REALLY made that game special, because he's Ben Heck and he's a bad ass creative guy. Rob Zombie build quality is MUCH better, but of course we still have things to learn. The contract mfg gigs have given us the ability to improve & hire even more, and by the time Spooky game #3 is announced... we're out of excuses and better be spot on.

We'll keep busting our a**es to make sure it is... and I appreciate everyone's patience while we grow. We won't walk away from problems, we'll polish code until it's right, we support everyone that has an issue, and we WILL make this the best small pinball company we possibly can.

Thanks guys... go play some games and have an awesome weekend! I'm back on CAD files for... I can't say yet.

Is there anything special about where you run the wires now, or can I just separate them somehow? Any chance of service bulletins for stuff like this? Thanks.

SpookyCharlie at what game# going forward was the fix implemented? Thanks!

I'm interested to know this too.

I guess that explains it. Thank you for taking the time to post this!

Best guess is mid 150's... minions work four, 10 hour days or I'd ask the floor manager (not here today).

Also, Fawzma has a better code fix for the VUK power control... we finally whined enough that 4 was weak and 5 was too fast that he caved and gave us 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, etc. It will be released on the next update (no, I don't have a date). But yes, keep in mind RZ has LOTS of code, audio, etc etc I want to see in there yet. Sid & Rob both have lots of lines we haven't used.

All in due time. Just hang in there... AMH only got its final code revision a couple months ago.

While I appreciate the sentiment, don't set unrealistic goals for yourself. As someone who does product engineering, let me put it this way... if you aren't making mistakes, you're not pushing the envelope enough. Now, you want to make sure you learn enough to not make the *SAME* mistakes again, but it's not realistic to say mistakes will never happen. If so, then you're just in "cookie cutter" mode.

Jaz

Oh absolutely sir... we're human and it will happen. I just mean we need to tighten up QC and get everything as right as it SHOULD be in that regard.

Trust me... when you see (insert name of next game here)... we aren't holding ANYTHING back! Every game gets a little more advanced in options from the last.

RZ light up toys for sale
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-rz-light-up-toys

Didn't take any pics but it is pretty simple. There is a 12-pin connector on the upper right side of the board marked "cabinet I/O". This goes to the tilt and some other switches. Disconnect it and bring it down into the cabinet. cut the ties that hold it to the high voltage cables in the cab. Then bring the connector back into the backbox through the hole at the opposite (left) end away from the high voltage lines and route the cable over the board. I also got snap on ferrite cores and put them at each end of the cable. Snap the cable back into the card. It probably doesn't matter exactly how you route the wires as long as they are separated.

My game is #155. What should I be looking for to see if the change was implemented on mine?

If you aren't having the problem I would not worry about it. But if you want to know you can look if the cabinet I/o and solenoid cables are bundled together.

Stern had a similar issue with Tron LE and Xmen LE ... they were some of the first Stern games with factory LEDs and they flickered badly from time to time.

This was fixed by removing the LED cables from the wiring loom and leaving them away from the bundle of wires. Obviously something was causing interference on the wires and setting off the LEDs.

rd

It was a loose wire on the auto launch and don't know why I didn't check sooner. Played the game three days like that.

It is very challenging to manually plunge balls once there are three in play and practically impossible to launch one and not lose another sdtm with five in play. Any chance to add a setting to disable autolaunch? I won't go so far as to suggest it should be turned off in tourney mode, but having the option to turn autolaunch off impacts your play and causes you to develop a strategy during multiballs.

Well, I moved the cabinet I/O bundle from the right tube to the left and cut the zip tie holding it to the solenoid bundle. First time I played What, I got a tilt warning just as the ball passed Spaulding. I don't have ferrites to add, but moving the wires alone did not solve the problem in my case.

Darn, wish I would've known about that. Oh well, we'll see how the look.

Getting some ferrite cores may solve it. Another thing to do in the mean time is to add twists to the cables which will effectively minimize the area of the loop between the 3.3V tilt signal and the ground.

An RZ owner wanted blood.

Bloody TV (resized).jpg