Yes... check the schematics.

My bluntness aside, you're going to need to look at the circuit being fed by F112 and troubleshoot. I assume dead short if it's blowing that fast. Have you taken a resistance reading at the fuse to see if it's shorted to ground? Otherwise, do some circuit isolation style troubleshooting. Pick a point in the middle of the circuit and lift a wire, see if the short remains. Put the wire back in place and then cut the affected half in half and check again. You will very quickly narrow it down.

But before any of that, do a thorough visual inspection looking for loose metal, scraps of wire, broken wires, anything touching where it shouldn't be touching, etc.

The schematics are actually pretty helpful for these kinds of 'trace down what's blowing the fuse problems'.

So, from J104 on the power driver board, it goes to J907 on the Fliptronics.

The four fuses on the fliptronics board feed the flippers, so pull all the fuses on the Fliptronics board, and if F112 blows without the fuses in the fliptronics board, somehow the bridge rectifier on the replacement fliptronics board is compromised. There isn't anything else in the circuit.

Add a fuse, apply power, add another fuse, apply power until you find which 50V wire is causing the problem.

This is presenting like a direct short to ground, so I'd trace the wire carefully, see if somehow it's pinched, the insulation worn off, or if the coil terminals on the flipper it's associated with are somehow shorting to ground.

Good luck!

Any chance this ribbon cable is plugged in one row off at any of the board connectors? Also check to be sure the board header pins do not have any bent pins.

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Maybe you lost the 12Vunreg voltage?
F116 in the top left corner of the driver board is blown?
Have everything connected to J116 -118 at the bottom left corner of the driver board?

While you could have lost your 12v, and you should check the power LED's on the power driver board and all four small connectors in the bottom left corner of the board should be plugged in, (J116, J117, J118, and J119), it is extremely common for the trough opto boards to have problems.

Get a ball or two out of the game. Go into switch test. Put a ball in the trough, does it register? If so, you have LED power, but it's likely that an LED or two on the trough opto boards is not transmitting or maybe not recieving.

At this point, you remove both the transmitter and receiver boards from the trough assembly. I know this is hard on the flipper coil side, but cracked solder connections are very common, and you need to not only find out if the transmitter/reciever pair has a problem, you need to make sure that the solder connections at the jack are good. It really is easier to take the time and remove the opto boards.

With both boards in your hands, go into switch test, and align the transmitters with the receivers. Then 'skew' the board, and align opto transmitter 4 with receiver 3. This quickly lets you know if any of the optos are not working and you can work out whether it's a transmitter or receiver that has failed.

It's common for it to be the 'jam ball' opto at the tip of the board to fail, be bent to the side, or (rarely) dirty (I clean the optos with windex on a rag while I'm here).

If it's the transmitter (clear looking LED):

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5671-12731-00

If it's the receiver (black looking LED):

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5163-14114-00

It's common for the solder connections on these boards to have tiny cracks, so it's a good idea to reflow the solder taking care not to create a solder bridge and short anything out.

I use a little blue loctite on the screws when I put the trough opto boards back in place. It's a hard job replacing a screw that falls out due to vibration and the loctite holds it all together a bit better.

Let us know what you find!